S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

Replace both airmatic shocks or wait? Anything else to do at same time?

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Old Jul 5, 2025 | 01:44 PM
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Replace both airmatic shocks or wait? Anything else to do at same time?

2010 S-550, 101k miles. I add 2-5k a year.
Right front airmatic has obvious leak; sounds like a tea kettle. Happened at house. I should be able to replace myself, at the worst I know someone that will help if I get stuck.
I assume these are original to the car.
The title has the two questions: should I do both, anything else I should also replace?
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Old Jul 5, 2025 | 01:52 PM
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level sensor link rods...

check bushings on everything
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Old Jul 5, 2025 | 11:50 PM
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Since you're in there, do both fronts the other side isn’t far behind. Also replace the Airmatic strut mounts and solenoids while everything’s apart. Check the compressor too if it’s been overworking due to leaks, it might be on borrowed time. Stick with OEM or Arnott for the struts. DIY is doable with the right tools, but watch the lines and electrical connectors.
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Old Jul 6, 2025 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Alexie
Since you're in there, do both fronts the other side isn’t far behind. Also replace the Airmatic strut mounts and solenoids while everything’s apart. Check the compressor too if it’s been overworking due to leaks, it might be on borrowed time. Stick with OEM or Arnott for the struts. DIY is doable with the right tools, but watch the lines and electrical connectors.
What is Airmatic Strut Mount?

And the solenoid? You mean to replace the valve block?

OP,
Replace both front struts. Stay away from Arnott, their quality sucks now. Used to be ok but for some reason their quality has gone down way bad.

Get Bilstein struts from RockAuto. They cost little more ($140) than Arnott but you can trust they work out the box.

You can rebuild the whole car if you like but I would just replace the struts and see how it is with new ones. If needed, you can replace the sensors later. This is super easy job as the sensors are easily accessed after wheel is off.
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Old Jul 7, 2025 | 06:14 AM
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Thank you! I was wondering WTF is Airmatic Strut Mount too!
I ordered one strut to gauge my skill level, Bilstein from RockAuto. I'll do other side if it goes okay. Should get here Wednesday and I'll start Friday night or Saturday.
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Old Jul 7, 2025 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by camplate
Thank you! I was wondering WTF is Airmatic Strut Mount too!
I ordered one strut to gauge my skill level, Bilstein from RockAuto. I'll do other side if it goes okay. Should get here Wednesday and I'll start Friday night or Saturday.
I separated the upper wishbone for the job in mine. Bought a ball joint separator from Harbor Freight and had to grind on it a little bit so it goes deep enough to the joint.

When wishbone is loose the wheel hub will rotate when you lower it down with a jack under the load bearing lower arm. When it is all out of tension on the ball joint you can feel if you have worn joints.
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Old Jul 12, 2025 | 08:46 PM
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I'll start a new thread if no one replies after a week.
1. How the F do you pack away the jack in the trunk? At first I couldn't find my shop jack, it was under the router table of course, exactly where it needed to be. I decided to use the car jack, first time it's seen daylight since 2009. And then I spent 20 minutes trying to fit it back in it's box before just giving up.
2. What is that flat black plate with the jack? Nothing about jacking the car in the owner's manual.
3. The replacement was easy. Everything else looked and felt okay. Had to buy a 10 mm crowfoot to get air line off of shock, turned a two hour job into five.
4. I will do other side next month and then get it aligned. But other side may have bad bushings.
5. Do you just throw away the old shock?
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Old Jul 12, 2025 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by camplate
I'll start a new thread if no one replies after a week.
1. How the F do you pack away the jack in the trunk? At first I couldn't find my shop jack, it was under the router table of course, exactly where it needed to be. I decided to use the car jack, first time it's seen daylight since 2009. And then I spent 20 minutes trying to fit it back in it's box before just giving up.
2. What is that flat black plate with the jack? Nothing about jacking the car in the owner's manual.
3. The replacement was easy. Everything else looked and felt okay. Had to buy a 10 mm crowfoot to get air line off of shock, turned a two hour job into five.
4. I will do other side next month and then get it aligned. But other side may have bad bushings.
5. Do you just throw away the old shock?
That flat black plate in my two cars is actually a wheel chock. You can unfold it to a triangle that you use to chock a wheel so car does not move when you jack it up.
If you did not have core charge when you bought the strut just toss the old one. I did not have core charge on mine from RockAuto.
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 04:36 AM
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don't wind the jack flat - its sits quite a long way open in a triangle
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
don't wind the jack flat - its sits quite a long way open in a triangle
?
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
don't wind the jack flat - its sits quite a long way open in a triangle
I'll try this. I really thought it was flat with the open side, can see the threaded rod, facing up. But nothing else worked.
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