ESP, ABS, Park Assist, Distronic have left the building!
NO CODES
I've load checked the batteries and have passed with flying colors. I did notice the front battery was a bit slow to come up to charging voltage (engine running).
I suspect a weak voltage regulator or alternator, what say the forum?
Last edited by Ken Wells; Jul 17, 2025 at 10:04 PM.
cruise often cuts out if the ESP isn't available - the ESP and the Park brake rely on the ABS readings
low volts aren't great - and regulators can be changed - but as all are related and the car has a penchant to store codes for low volts I'd start on sensors
cruise often cuts out if the ESP isn't available - the ESP and the Park brake rely on the ABS readings
low volts aren't great - and regulators can be changed - but as all are related and the car has a penchant to store codes for low volts I'd start on sensors
NO CODES
I've load checked the batteries and have passed with flying colors. I did notice the front battery was a bit slow to come up to charging voltage (engine running).
I suspect a weak voltage regulator or alternator, what say the forum?
All of the above occur after I drive 60 +/- miles. Up until then everything works perfectly.
Last edited by Ken Wells; Jul 29, 2025 at 01:57 PM.
electronic release of the park brake uses the ABS sensors....
the gearbox gets info for the traction control from the ABS wheel speed sensors
the PAS uses vehicle speed to alter the assistance level as the speed changes so this can go full heavy or fully light whenever it fancies
the ISM connects to the electroplate in the gearbox to get between P N R and D so it can even lose its gear selection
gear selection can get muddled and change 5th to 2nd etc.
no doubt the suspension has a temper tantrum too
all are standard bits of fun to expect on any drive at any time - you have to love german engineering and designed to fail electonics
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I purchased one with USB outlets so I can also charge phones. It now lives full time in the lighter.
In my case, which was exactly the same as yours the following happened:
* Replaced ABS sensor, error came back either instantly or after 5-15 minutes
* Replaced wiring with new pins from ABS computer <-..> ABS sensor, no change
* Replaced entire wheel hub from another car, to eliminate *any* chance this was about the ring/bearing
None of this worked
We then took the ABS computer to a shop that does ABS/ECU rebuilds, and they re-flowed the CPU on the ABS computer. Problem is now solved, car has traveled 500KM without issue.
I have ordered a new ABS computer from Mercedes and I will have it in 3-4 months, part is on back order.
Reasoning for order of computer:
* I cannot be thinking about this, I have enough on my mind
* I have lost trust in the ABS computer at this point
* If it needed a re flow, it means it's game over
* Yes, the rebuild will likely hold forever, but I'm not taking that risk
Why?
* Imagine a scenario where you have music on, sunroof open, summer, heavy light coming, instrument cluster not immediately 'active' visible due to sunlight hitting you hard
* You're driving well, pushing the car, expecting it to work as you know it can
* All of a sudden you need ESP, i.e. your driving depends on it - and it's not there, boom, you're either injured, paying, or 6 feet under
I can't take that risk.
If I was the type of driver that would be at speed limit w/o music, 100% focused, I could keep it as -is.
If you're still suffering please check the ABS computer.
all my BMWs have had them replaced or repaired - last about 5 minutes - its ALL done on purpose - the industry are just criminals
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