S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

Welp Houston we got an issue

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Old Aug 11, 2025 | 04:43 AM
  #51  
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S500
Originally Posted by clb0099
I am seeking guidance on troubleshooting my vehicle's heating system. The fuse panel, located on the right side of the dashboard, has led me to wonder if a missing fuse in slot 91F is the root cause. Unfortunately, I do not have a fuse chart and there are no visible numbers next to the fuses. Any help or the part number for the OEM fuse chart would be greatly appreciated.

that’s a strange one - I bet it needs one of these

Interior Fuses Right side of the dash F1/6

F91 5 AMP Front SAM unit

as for the canbus bit - I wouldn't solder... crimp is the way - canbus only run 1 to 5 volts and almost no amps
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Old Aug 11, 2025 | 04:47 AM
  #52  
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if someone has been at that check all

Interior Fuses Right side of the dash F1/6

Fuse Number Ampere Rating Designation
F70 40 Door Control Unit - Right Front N69/2
F71 15 Keyless Go Control Unit N69/5
F72 7.5 Pyrotechnical Separator K88
F73 5 Emergency Call System Control Unit
F74 30 TLC Control Unit
F75 10 Battery Management
F76 15 Vacuum pump relay
F77 50 Sound Amplifier A2/13
F78 25 AdBlue Relay/ Additional Fan/ Charge Air Cooler Circulation Pump
F79 7.5 Alarm H3/1
F80 40 Door Control Unit - Left Front N69/1
F81 40 Door Control Unit - Left Rear S Class N69/3
F81 30 Rear Control Unit - Rear CL model N22/6
F82 40 Door Control Unit - Right Rear S Class N69/4
F82 30 Rear Control Unit - Rear CL model N22/6
F83 30 Intelligent Servo Unit. Direct Select
F84 20 Sound Proceeding Unit A2/69
F85 10 AMG Illumination for Door Sills
F86 – Not used
F87 – Not used
F88 – Not used
F89 – Not used
F90 20 Heater unit
F91 5 Front SAM unit

Fuses Driver side, Left side of dash F1/7

Fuse Number Ampere Rating Designation
F92 40 Left front seat N32/1
F93 7.5 Weight sensing system N2/13
F94 5 Camera
F95 – Spare
F96 5 TPM RDK Unit N88
F97 7.5 DVD Player
F98 – Spare
F99 7.5 COMAND
F100 5 Media Interface N125/1
F101 10 Rear Displays Left A40/5 RightA40/6
F102 40 Right front seat N32/2
F103 7.5 ESP Electronic Stability Program N47-5
F104 40 Audio Radio Tuner
F105 – Not used
F106 5 Navigation / TV Tuner/ Toll Collection
F107 5 HD Tuner N87/8, Audio Broadcasting N87/3, SDAR Sirus Unit
F108 5 Rear A/C N22/4
F109 15 Rear Air conditioner blower motor N29/2
F110 7.5 Rear Back rest control Unit N32/20 N32/21
F111 5 RCP Control Unit N72/2 - HBF Rear Control Field - (arm rest buttons)
F112 5 Front SAM Fuse box,
F113 5 DC Converter
F114 – Not used

Last edited by BOTUS; Aug 11, 2025 at 04:48 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2025 | 05:16 AM
  #53  
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list of rubbish the front sam messes up

Front SAM Control unit adaptations
later software LIST of codings for Front SAM
Parameterization MRV functional requirement
Parameterization of light
Parameterization of fan control unit box
Parameterization of recuperation: channel setting
Parameterization of the washing water level
Parameterization wipers
Parameterization of the wiper compartment heating
SRA Headlamp wash
Installation condition of the transmission oil cooler/water cooler
Installation condition LRK Steering wheel heater
Installation condition of the washer nozzle heater
Installation condition of the water valve

Monitoring, Reporting and Verification (MRV) Labelling re collection and analysis of emissions data

Parameterization of lights
Coding
Fog lights installed
Daytime running lights not installed
Daytime running light dimming not active
Daytime running lights dimming factor 90%
Cornering light substitution not active
Cornering light substitution fog lights not active
Retrigger time for headlight activation 1min
Replacement light function active

Parameterization of the fan control unit box
Coding
AC Ventilator control box installed

Parameterization of recuperation: channel setting
Coding
Parking light right voltage target voltage 13.0 V
Parking light right setting Recuperation active with standard target voltage
Parking light left voltage target voltage 13.2 V
Parking light left setting Recuperation active with standard target voltage
Fog light right voltage target voltage 13.5 V
Fog light right Recuperation setting active with standard target voltage
Fog light left voltage target voltage 13.5 V
Fog light left setting Recuperation active with standard target voltage
Daytime running light right voltage target voltage 13.8 V
Daytime running light right Recuperation setting active with standard target voltage
Daytime running light left voltage target voltage 13.8 V
Daytime running light left setting for recuperation active with standard target voltage
Sidemarker right voltage target voltage 13.8 V
Side marker right Recuperation setting active with standard target voltage
Sidemarker left voltage target voltage 13.8 V
Side marker left setting for recuperation active with standard target voltage
Direction indicator right voltage target voltage 13.8 V
Direction indicator right Recuperation setting active with standard target voltage
Direction indicator left voltage target voltage 13.8 V
Direction indicator left Recuperation setting active with standard target voltage
High beam right voltage target voltage 14.0 V High beam right
Recuperation setting active with standard target voltage
High beam left voltage target voltage 13.8 V
High beam left setting for recuperation active with standard target voltage
Terminal 58D voltage target voltage 13.5 V
Terminal 58D Recuperation setting active with standard target voltage
Low beam left voltage target voltage 13.5 V
Low beam left setting for recuperation deactivated
Low beam right voltage target voltage 13.8 V
Dipped beam right setting for recuperation deactivated
Storage compartment lighting center console voltage target voltage 13.5 V
Center console storage compartment lighting
Recuperation setting active with standard target voltage

Parametrierung Screen wash level
Coding
WW_ok_by_drive 3276750ms
WW_nok_by_drive 10000ms
WW_ok_by_stop 2000ms
WW_threshold 842

Parameterization Wipers
Coding
Wiper Start Suppression Active - active
Wiper Speed Reduction Active - active

Parameterization of the wiper compartment heating
Coding
Wiper parked postion heater - installed

SRA headlamp wash
Coding
SRA_EnSRAauto - active
SRA_EnKl15 is a functional requirement
SRA_EnAbbledlichtAnf is a functional requirement
SRA_EnStandlichtAnf is a functional requirement
SRA_Time 1100ms

Installation condition of the transmission oil cooler/water cooler
Coding
Transmission oil cooler installed - not fitted
Water cooler installed - not fitted

Installation condition LRK (Steering Wheel heater)
Coding
Steering wheel climate control installed - installed
LRK duty cycle - variable control time
LRK duty cycle - fixed control time (24min)

Installation condition of the washer nozzle heater
Coding
Heated washer nozzle - installed

Installation condition of the water valve
Coding
Water valve - installed

Last edited by BOTUS; Aug 11, 2025 at 05:20 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2025 | 07:51 AM
  #54  
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1983 Nissan Shltbox
If you've had that much moisture in the car and have already seen that much corrosion on PCB's and other electronic circuits then that's probably the root of all your little gremlins. Gonna have to identify and start going through each module independently and assessing/cleaning/repairing/replacing them.
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Old Aug 12, 2025 | 09:59 AM
  #55  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
Already checked them. Good to go. Waiting on the canbus blocks and we should be fine.
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 03:20 PM
  #56  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
Upon obtaining the Canbus block locally, I successfully started the vehicle, and it idled without any issues. However, I discovered that the main battery was not charging. This became apparent when the vehicle stalled after idling for 2-3 minutes on a new battery. The red battery icon then appeared, prompting me to recharge the main battery using a trickle charger. After recharging, the vehicle started and idled normally. I theorize that the issue may be related to the alternator or the loose battery terminals in the trunk, which were not tightened by the body shop. The battery voltage reads 13.4 volts while idling, followed by stalling. I am seeking potential causes for this issue, considering the alternator's replacement in 2022 and the possibility of a blown front amp fuse in the profuse compartment due to the loose terminals.
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 05:35 PM
  #57  
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Not more electrical gremlins!!!!
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 05:53 PM
  #58  
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18 year old water damaged Mercedes with 200,000 miles.


Are you sure about this @clb0099 ?
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 05:59 PM
  #59  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
Yes, sir! Lol, I'm having trouble envisioning that the issue lies with the alternator, which is merely three years old. My research, based on a Facebook post, suggests that the Battery Control Module (BCM) may be the root cause. Additionally, I suspect the alternator fuse in the prefuse in the engine bay could be the problem. I'm considering moving on from this car as it's consuming a significant amount of time.

Last edited by clb0099; Aug 14, 2025 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 06:10 PM
  #60  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
@Chassis, I am confident that water has not been inside the car for 18 years, and as I mentioned earlier, the vehicle holds significant sentimental value. With car parts being readily available, I am not overly concerned about resale value. A Mercedes mechanic once shared with me that all cars will eventually experience water ingress. My vehicle has been refurbished and looks excellent. Although there are issues at present, I can assure you that water was not present six months ago. This is because I had the entire interior removed, and during a thorough deep cleaning, my friend and I found no evidence of water or rust.
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 06:12 PM
  #61  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
My son is working on the car, and I am providing guidance. He is handling the manual labor, while I offer my expertise.

Last edited by clb0099; Aug 14, 2025 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 09:48 PM
  #62  
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Yeah it's a sweet car, and you've done a ton to it. It's a hobby car, so it's all good. Did you get the wheels on it yet? Post some pics!
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 10:47 PM
  #63  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
Here's a brief update: my current BCM part number, A2215408745, has been superseded by A2215400401, as per Mercedes' documentation. I'm aware that this may not necessarily resolve the issue, but I've acquired this part for $40.00, complete with a one-year warranty. Additionally, I've ordered the Central Gateway, featuring the updated part number A2219006702, and the front engine prefuse junction box, bearing the latest part number A2215404950. Upon receiving these components, I'll work closely with Ninjabenz to verify the accuracy of the software configurations. Achieving a stable engine idle is a notable milestone, and if these replacements don't rectify the problem, the alternator will be the next component to inspect. However, given its relatively recent replacement (less than 20,000 miles) with an OEM Mercedes part, I consider this possibility improbable. All these parts cost me $100, which is a remarkably cost-effective solution. Furthermore, they came with warranties. #A2215400401
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Old Aug 15, 2025 | 02:46 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by clb0099
Here's a brief update: my current BCM part number, A2215408745, has been superseded by A2215400401, as per Mercedes' documentation. I'm aware that this may not necessarily resolve the issue, but I've acquired this part for $40.00, complete with a one-year warranty. Additionally, I've ordered the Central Gateway, featuring the updated part number A2219006702, and the front engine prefuse junction box, bearing the latest part number A2215404950. Upon receiving these components, I'll work closely with Ninjabenz to verify the accuracy of the software configurations. Achieving a stable engine idle is a notable milestone, and if these replacements don't rectify the problem, the alternator will be the next component to inspect. However, given its relatively recent replacement (less than 20,000 miles) with an OEM Mercedes part, I consider this possibility improbable. All these parts cost me $100, which is a remarkably cost-effective solution. Furthermore, they came with warranties. #A2215400401

isn't that CGW way too late A2219006702 ? - Mine was a 2215408945 there is a later part that came with SW ending 1427 - but 1427 isn't compatible - it runs SW ending 1327 is the last that works (original was SW 2214481027)
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Old Aug 15, 2025 | 08:42 AM
  #65  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
Further investigation revealed that the alternator voltage measured 13.87 while the engine was running, as determined by a voltmeter test. Meanwhile, the battery voltage stood at 12.08. After idling the vehicle for two minutes, no shutdown occurred. I am uncertain about the root cause, but I suspect that overheating electrical part (relay ) maybe a contributing factor. Notably, the vehicle idled smoothly yesterday before stalling, and a subsequent battery voltage check showed a reading below 12 volts. Once the trickle charger restored the battery voltage to above 12 volts, the vehicle started without issue. Although the scanner generated codes due to the previous stall, I cleared them and plan to perform another scan today after allowing the main battery to charge overnight via trickle charger.
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Old Aug 15, 2025 | 10:50 AM
  #66  
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Battery done. Should be at 12.4 resting.

12.08 is “dead as a doornail”.


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Old Aug 15, 2025 | 10:57 AM
  #67  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
The battery's age is not the issue; it's only five days old. The problem has been resolved. A faulty relay “S” (fuel pump) in the rear SAM was identified and replaced with a new one. We are now operational. I would like to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. Your input was very helpful!


Originally Posted by MacVidMB-V8
Battery done. Should be at 12.4 resting.

12.08 is “dead as a doornail”.
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Old Aug 18, 2025 | 09:15 AM
  #68  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
I consistently strive to share valuable insights that facilitate easier vehicle maintenance. Recently, I acquired the tool below, which significantly simplified my repair process. The fuel pump relay was functioning intermittently. This tool proved instrumental in testing each relay in the front and rear sams.



Super Relay Buddy
Amazon Amazon
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Old Aug 19, 2025 | 07:07 AM
  #69  
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fuel pump fun with no ground at the fuel pump relay - a normal Merc ECU failed issue

wobbly joint




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Old Aug 19, 2025 | 09:35 AM
  #70  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
The ECU was replaced eight months ago with a brand new unit, so that's not the cause. The problem actually lay with the relay in the rear SAM.
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Old Aug 19, 2025 | 10:33 AM
  #71  
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you never came back with what happened when u added that fuse ?

interior Fuses Right side of the dash F1/6

F91 5 AMP Front SAM unit
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Old Aug 29, 2025 | 10:39 PM
  #72  
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Sorry that didn’t change anything as the heat still doesn’t work lol .
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Old Aug 30, 2025 | 04:55 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by clb0099
Sorry that didn’t change anything as the heat still doesn’t work lol .

yep, I found some other fuse charts and a number of fuses are only for the S400 Hybrid cars,

but searching again and it was listed in early cars for some odd bit - oh and magically its a 5 Amp (oops)
the other interesting thing is never call it the fuse boxes on the dashboard, Drivers / Passengers side... its Left side and Right side of the car regardless of where the steering wheel goes - yet the Front Sam does change sides with the wheel, just to aid no consistency whatsoever ???
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Old Aug 31, 2025 | 04:43 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by chassis
Battery testing is meaningless.

Replace the main battery and auxiliary battery if present.
Battery testing can do gross check and also report an internal short in one of the cells.

If car was left at a shop for months and they were depleted,

Then get car home and fully charge the starter and trunk batteries

Test again. If it fails, purchase new batteries front/back, take them home, and fully charge them.

Test again. If it fails, it most likely is not the batteries.

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