No crank No start !
Last edited by SmarteNuff369; Jan 7, 2026 at 07:07 PM.




That said... No crank no start. All warning lights come on with key in 'run' position? Ask it to crank; no noises? Supply power to the wire on the starter that will get it to operate. If it cranks you are dealing with drive authorization issues. Often an EIS... Electronic Ignition Switch. Theft related part. Annoying but is old enough. Can also be an issue with the transmission not realizing that it is in Park or Neutral.
With seeing how fussy this vehicle is with voltage, I have replaced both starter and consumer batteries. Something appears to be rocking my consumer battery. Within the time it takes me to pull codes my battery voltage dips 2-2.5 volts adding additional voltage/und-volt codes and hinders communications. I have pulled the consumer battery and charged it. Plan on throwing it back in and attempting to delete frozen DTC codes and re-run auto scan to see if I have any luck. Hopefully before the weekend is over, I should have a bunch of codes to share.
you don't need benzninja to get a v12 to run without a misfire - top up intercooler system, and fit a new voltage transformer, and two function coil packs - however, he is invaluable with updates or tricky stuff
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If it's considered a Theft Relevant Part, a used one is only of use with the following items all from the same running vehicle:
ME
EIS
Key
ISM
TCM
Without these, you're wasting your time. Probably more cost effective to get a new one from MB, but that comes with a massive caveat... That it's actually the fault.
Where in the US are you?
Last edited by AL5461; Mar 15, 2026 at 08:48 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
FYI there is no ME on a car - what do you think you mean ?
FYI there is no ME on a car - what do you think you mean ?
you need big boy battery support to do diagnostics
the no comms might just be the CGW having a temper tantrum - quite easy to achieve under the right conditions - and or other soggy canbus silliness
what diagnostic kit do you now have - the hard to use xentry is the one that can dig deep when stupid issues turn the simple into a mass of confusion -
As for the power consumption that these V12’s require, I was NOT a believer until I smoked a brand new heavy duty H8 battery while trouble shooting in the early stages. The massive amp draw > 75 the coolant fan pulled 100% default) made me smarten up and disconnect the fan. All the latest info I gathered is based on new battery 12.8v.
I have had a few discussions with CR previously, maybe it’s time to revisit with the 12pack master.
it seems to have multiple uses
1) scare the crap out of owners so they run to the dealer - to be be robbed
2) pretends to keep things cool when the ECU no longer knows what’s going on with the fan

Don't forget to make a blood sacrifice, and remember, Karnak does not like type A blood! (Oh, and throw in a subscription to Sports Illustrated, for good measure! Karnak is a big NBA fan!. No responses can be given by Karnak on Tuesdays! That is his day off...
Happened following a replacement TCM and was improved when the fan was upgraded to the 750W one as part of the towbar retrofit. I suspect it is actually a sign of a failing coolant temp sensor as this is the only culprit in the wiring diagram that makes sense... Whether this is the OPs issue who knows🤷
Happened following a replacement TCM and was improved when the fan was upgraded to the 750W one as part of the towbar retrofit. I suspect it is actually a sign of a failing coolant temp sensor as this is the only culprit in the wiring diagram that makes sense... Whether this is the OPs issue who knows🤷
sensor is signaling back to a non existing (not seen) ME. Without the ME fan signal is 100% stand back she is clear for takeoff! No modules have been replaced and can be connected to for diagnostics.
Don't forget to make a blood sacrifice, and remember, Karnak does not like type A blood! (Oh, and throw in a subscription to Sports Illustrated, for good measure! Karnak is a big NBA fan!. No responses can be given by Karnak on Tuesdays! That is his day off...

it’s a good thing I have universal O- negative. If anything I learned a lot about a car that I only dreamed of owning in my younger years. When she is running well, nothing like it IMO. When she puts up a fit, like any other woman I’ve met, better be prepared to open up your wallet.
Happened following a replacement TCM and was improved when the fan was upgraded to the 750W one as part of the towbar retrofit. I suspect it is actually a sign of a failing coolant temp sensor as this is the only culprit in the wiring diagram that makes sense... Whether this is the OPs issue who knows🤷
AC issues also cause the engine cooling fan to do interesting things
Put the new ME in and a few other parts back together. Cleared all existing codes that were in the system. She fired right up!!! Of course not issue free. I guess due to sitting for so long the Oring on the oil filter housing became brittle and I started leaking oil. After shutting her down and an extensive cleaning of the belt, pulleys, and other lines saturated with oil. I replaced the orings and changed the oil. Started her back up….. no leaks, no squeaks, no belt slippage.
after running her for about a 40 plus minute ride I pulled it back into the driveway to press the tires up fully for any flat spots due to sitting. As I got out of the car and talked briefly to a neighbor, I heard a sudden change in the idle. What do you know …. Check engine light is lit! Codes came back misfire 7 codes P0300, P0307-P0312. Driver side left bank gone. All at the same time ? Not just one failure or two ? The entire bank ? I called up and ordered a rental VT boost box from CR….. my victory was very short lived. Probably should change my title or start a different thread.









