S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

No crank No start !

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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 07:05 PM
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2007 S600
No crank No start !

I will certainly apologize ahead of time for my laziness if this has already been discussed. 2007 S600 5.5L M275. I scored this MB accidentally (I told my wife) on BAT 77K miles on her. I was able to enjoy the tail end of nice weather here in the NE region before shelving it for the winter. June of 2025 within 2 weeks of taking her out, radiator leak. Replaced radiator (slowly) then within 100 miles of driving I threw a code (misfire cylinder 7). I acknowledge the code via OBD scanner and drove about 3 miles to the store. Tried to start the car, sounded like it turned over but it did not. Had it towed. Replaced both batteries, checked every fuse that I could find, checked starter relay, jumped relay (starter turned), changed fob battery, all lights on dash light as should, I have basic OBDII scanner I attempted to read… that tried to read and came back “no communication”. (I did order an autel MP900BT that should be in by the weekend.) is there any quick checks that anyone may know of to assist in the troubleshooting of my issue ? I am hot and heavy on it right now in case it’s going to take heavy lifting to get her back on the road for spring. Any and all help is appreciated. 1st post too, I will make things shorter in the future.

Last edited by SmarteNuff369; Jan 7, 2026 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 09:14 PM
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Definitely need a scanner that can read Mercedes codes. No start after warm-up is typically a Crankshaft Position Sensor, fuel system issue, or ignition components but without knowing the codes you might as well ask Karnak the Great to divine the solution. If you can nail it down with a code scan, keep us posted.
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Old Jan 8, 2026 | 12:22 PM
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good shout on crank sensor, misfire could be a coil stick - all of these bits of fun sound "quiet normal"
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Old Jan 8, 2026 | 01:03 PM
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OP I gently suggest you send the Autel thing back and put up the $$$ for a membership with BenzNinja and buy the computer and C-4 thing that will have you equipped with Xentry. Xentry is Mercedes' system for diagnosis, performing all manner of tests, changing software ect. A membership with Peter gets you his help when needed. He is excellent and then you have Xentry. Invaluable.

That said... No crank no start. All warning lights come on with key in 'run' position? Ask it to crank; no noises? Supply power to the wire on the starter that will get it to operate. If it cranks you are dealing with drive authorization issues. Often an EIS... Electronic Ignition Switch. Theft related part. Annoying but is old enough. Can also be an issue with the transmission not realizing that it is in Park or Neutral.
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Old Jan 16, 2026 | 11:50 PM
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A quick update on my previous issue. The Autel scanner came in and although it seems to be somewhat useful, I feel like working with the benzninja (or DAS xentry) would be way more beneficial. If I knew what I was getting myself into with the w221 S600 I would have not walked away…. A full sprint would have been more like it.

With seeing how fussy this vehicle is with voltage, I have replaced both starter and consumer batteries. Something appears to be rocking my consumer battery. Within the time it takes me to pull codes my battery voltage dips 2-2.5 volts adding additional voltage/und-volt codes and hinders communications. I have pulled the consumer battery and charged it. Plan on throwing it back in and attempting to delete frozen DTC codes and re-run auto scan to see if I have any luck. Hopefully before the weekend is over, I should have a bunch of codes to share.

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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 09:45 AM
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they eat volts for breakfast - a fully loaded one with exterior lights off, uses >37 amps key in run position, engine off - it needs minimum 8 amp power supply and interior fans off to try to cope - or do things (out of merc spec) with it running

you don't need benzninja to get a v12 to run without a misfire - top up intercooler system, and fit a new voltage transformer, and two function coil packs - however, he is invaluable with updates or tricky stuff
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 07:26 PM
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After many trials and error

I have come to the conclusion after a few breaks in between testing and troubleshooting that the culprit to my “no crank no start” is in fact my ME (ECM). Although not fully toasted, because certain modules, codes, and data are still functional through the ME. I am in search of a used ME A275 150 04 79 part# to eliminate the 5% chance I am wrong. I am unfamiliar with repairing these modules and honestly don’t even want to try myself. I am sure I will run into other issues with programming as well. If anyone would like to comment or make a suggestion….. I am all ears.
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 08:47 PM
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The engine ECU is VIN and key coded.

If it's considered a Theft Relevant Part, a used one is only of use with the following items all from the same running vehicle:

ME
EIS
Key
ISM
TCM

Without these, you're wasting your time. Probably more cost effective to get a new one from MB, but that comes with a massive caveat... That it's actually the fault.

Where in the US are you?

Last edited by AL5461; Mar 15, 2026 at 08:48 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 10:50 PM
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Philadelphia PA. Thoughts were to grab a used one preferably returnable just to actually see if the ME can be read. Currently I can not communicate with ME, but I can see it passing through data and communications with other modules. It’s more like a partial ME failure than a complete failure (if there is such a thing). I have come across some ECU repair places that I may reach out to. But I have also debated getting the new ME from dealership and having my car towed to them to figure out how to program the other vins with the ME.
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 05:11 AM
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S500
spend 24 hours reading and watching videos on https://www.v12icpack.com/ then you'll have a bit of an idea why you need to spend $7000 on some ignition parts - all quite normal on the v12


FYI there is no ME on a car - what do you think you mean ?
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 05:47 AM
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W221 S500
Originally Posted by BOTUS
spend 24 hours reading and watching videos on https://www.v12icpack.com/ then you'll have a bit of an idea why you need to spend $7000 on some ignition parts - all quite normal on the v12


FYI there is no ME on a car - what do you think you mean ?
ME = Motor Einspritzenkontroller aka the engine ECU😉
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by AL5461
ME = Motor Einspritzenkontroller aka the engine ECU😉
thanks - only ever seen the TLA on BMWs - DME = Digital Motor Electronics

google converts your Motor Einspritzenkontroller to Engine injection controller
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 07:58 AM
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2007 S600
Originally Posted by BOTUS
thanks - only ever seen the TLA on BMWs - DME = Digital Motor Electronics

google converts your Motor Einspritzenkontroller to Engine injection controller
ME is in fact the ECU. I have only come to use the terminology that MB uses due to all of the reading, researching, and troubleshooting. In this model 2007 W221 M275 it js located in the lid portion of the front SAM.
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 08:50 AM
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W221 S500
Originally Posted by BOTUS
thanks - only ever seen the TLA on BMWs - DME = Digital Motor Electronics

google converts your Motor Einspritzenkontroller to Engine injection controller
Does exactly what it says on the tin😉

Good to see my A level German was verified by Google it😂
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 10:19 AM
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ummm, not sure reading Merc docs will help - most dealers never knew (for 15 years) the voltage transformer gets damaged and subsequently blows up each bank's replacement ignition coil pack (of 12 coils) - and you go round in circles spending money you don't have


you need big boy battery support to do diagnostics

the no comms might just be the CGW having a temper tantrum - quite easy to achieve under the right conditions - and or other soggy canbus silliness

what diagnostic kit do you now have - the hard to use xentry is the one that can dig deep when stupid issues turn the simple into a mass of confusion -
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 11:11 AM
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Sadly I am using an autel MaxiiPro, with the ability to phone a friend with access to zentry diagnostics software. This was a massive help with pinout diagram. I wish I would have went the zentry route.

As for the power consumption that these V12’s require, I was NOT a believer until I smoked a brand new heavy duty H8 battery while trouble shooting in the early stages. The massive amp draw > 75 the coolant fan pulled 100% default) made me smarten up and disconnect the fan. All the latest info I gathered is based on new battery 12.8v.

I have had a few discussions with CR previously, maybe it’s time to revisit with the 12pack master.
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 01:46 PM
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Cooling fan oddity can be a sign of comms issues with the engine ECU

it seems to have multiple uses

1) scare the crap out of owners so they run to the dealer - to be be robbed
2) pretends to keep things cool when the ECU no longer knows what’s going on with the fan
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 02:32 PM
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Re: "...you might as well ask Karnak the Great to divine the solution."

Don't forget to make a blood sacrifice, and remember, Karnak does not like type A blood! (Oh, and throw in a subscription to Sports Illustrated, for good measure! Karnak is a big NBA fan!. No responses can be given by Karnak on Tuesdays! That is his day off...
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
Cooling fan oddity can be a sign of comms issues with the engine ECU

it seems to have multiple uses

1) scare the crap out of owners so they run to the dealer - to be be robbed
2) pretends to keep things cool when the ECU no longer knows what’s going on with the fan
I have the random fan switch on every time the canbus gets a prod, especially when warm.

Happened following a replacement TCM and was improved when the fan was upgraded to the 750W one as part of the towbar retrofit. I suspect it is actually a sign of a failing coolant temp sensor as this is the only culprit in the wiring diagram that makes sense... Whether this is the OPs issue who knows🤷
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by AL5461
I have the random fan switch on every time the canbus gets a prod, especially when warm.

Happened following a replacement TCM and was improved when the fan was upgraded to the 750W one as part of the towbar retrofit. I suspect it is actually a sign of a failing coolant temp sensor as this is the only culprit in the wiring diagram that makes sense... Whether this is the OPs issue who knows🤷

sensor is signaling back to a non existing (not seen) ME. Without the ME fan signal is 100% stand back she is clear for takeoff! No modules have been replaced and can be connected to for diagnostics.
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Mustapha63701
Re: "...you might as well ask Karnak the Great to divine the solution."

Don't forget to make a blood sacrifice, and remember, Karnak does not like type A blood! (Oh, and throw in a subscription to Sports Illustrated, for good measure! Karnak is a big NBA fan!. No responses can be given by Karnak on Tuesdays! That is his day off...

it’s a good thing I have universal O- negative. If anything I learned a lot about a car that I only dreamed of owning in my younger years. When she is running well, nothing like it IMO. When she puts up a fit, like any other woman I’ve met, better be prepared to open up your wallet.
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by AL5461
I have the random fan switch on every time the canbus gets a prod, especially when warm.

Happened following a replacement TCM and was improved when the fan was upgraded to the 750W one as part of the towbar retrofit. I suspect it is actually a sign of a failing coolant temp sensor as this is the only culprit in the wiring diagram that makes sense... Whether this is the OPs issue who knows🤷

AC issues also cause the engine cooling fan to do interesting things
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 07:37 PM
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Just a quick update; removed ME/ECU and shipped it off to a reputable shop to have them bench test and diagnosis. It will be a repair, replacement, or no issues found. I will keep thread up to date on the findings.
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Old Apr 23, 2026 | 09:51 AM
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Replaced ME,

After a shipping error I received my ME (ECU) from a company in Georgia called PresserTech. The gentlemen down at this company were nothing short of amazing. Shout out to Scott for all your help and assuring your customer with guaranteed satisfaction.

Put the new ME in and a few other parts back together. Cleared all existing codes that were in the system. She fired right up!!! Of course not issue free. I guess due to sitting for so long the Oring on the oil filter housing became brittle and I started leaking oil. After shutting her down and an extensive cleaning of the belt, pulleys, and other lines saturated with oil. I replaced the orings and changed the oil. Started her back up….. no leaks, no squeaks, no belt slippage.

after running her for about a 40 plus minute ride I pulled it back into the driveway to press the tires up fully for any flat spots due to sitting. As I got out of the car and talked briefly to a neighbor, I heard a sudden change in the idle. What do you know …. Check engine light is lit! Codes came back misfire 7 codes P0300, P0307-P0312. Driver side left bank gone. All at the same time ? Not just one failure or two ? The entire bank ? I called up and ordered a rental VT boost box from CR….. my victory was very short lived. Probably should change my title or start a different thread.
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Old Apr 23, 2026 | 09:59 AM
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Does sound like a VT problem. You probably had two issues, resolved one, and boom the second reared its ugly head. My guess is putting in a Boost Box will take care of it. Keep us posted.
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