pdx13

I changed my oil at 5K and used a vacuum to remove the old oil. I was able to retrieve all of the oil (about 8.5 quarts). Yesterday, I again tried to change the oil using the same method and was able to only get about 2 quarts, regardless of how I fished the vacuum tip around. Just wondering why I was unable to reach the bottom of the pan this time. I inserted the vacuum tube through the dipstick feed.

Streamliner

I assume you are saying that you changed the oil on a W222, is that correct? Just curious.

alshaikh85

I understand that you prefer to change your own oil, but I highly urge you to take it this time to the dealer. Failing to do it right could have a serious damage to your motor.

pdx13

Yes, not because I care about saving the money, it is actually more convenient for me to change my own oil which I can do in about half an hour assuming I can suck the oil out with a vacuum, and I still like to change my oil and filter every 5K miles even though I know synthetic lasts longer. Plus I enjoy tinkering and changing the oil is about the only thing I can do aside from detailing the car constantly. However, given the issue I had this last time with trying to vacuum the oil I will start taking it to the dealer. I draw the line at hoisting the car and removing the covers, etc. underneath to drain the oil.

Cptdenny

I read the following:
According to our semi retired oil man (Drivbiwire), the 1st 2K to 3K miles are considered to be the "detergency cycle"; during which most of the metal from bearings transfers to the oil, as such, running only 5k on your oil wears out your engine much faster. (MB oil changes interval are 13K miles in the US and 18.7K miles in Europe).

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211...nterval-2.html

Streamliner

Well, I would imagine that you are one of just a handful of W222 owners who change their own oil. I guess I just got too busy for that many years ago. I think the last time I changed my own oil was on a 1965 Corvette that I had rebuilt back in the late 70's. Anyway, I applaud your "hands on" approach to auto maintenance. That said, since I lease most of my cars, I do maintenance according to what the factory says I need to do to keep the warranty in force and every three years or so, I get a new one. With MB now offering prepaid maintenance programs, I usually just opt for that.

hyperion667

changing oil is a very manly feeling good work

kretsh

I change my own oil using the vacuum method. It allows me to be sure it's done correctly. It actually costs more than having a dealer do the oil change when they are running 'specials'. I also use an air operated vacuum pump so I always have vacuum, without the need to continue pumping the manual pump.

The W222 has a particular fussy oil dip stick position, and I have needed to play with retrieval tube a few times to get the crankcase completely drained.

I can tell you the horror stories of dealer techs messing up oil changes that I've had on my MB and Audi by overfilling. I believe its the first job that these newly graduated techs have / get when hired.

With the amount of excess oil that I have taken out of a crankcase, I could do another oil change.

Nickthegreek

Cut a diagonal end section on the suction hose so it doesnt plug the end when you bottom it out and open the oil filler cap. problem should be solved

Nickthegreek

You contradicted yourself lol. If you get the majority of break in material in the first 3k miles, then a 5k mile oil change is better because you take the particles out sooner

platt-deutsch

You must be sticking a tube down inside the dip stick tube. The dip stick tube is designed so that you only have to suck on the dipstick tube and not put another tube inside it.
I made my own adapter with a piece of 3/4 inch shafting and turned it down in Lathe to just slide into the tube and cut 2 oring groves in it and brazed a pipe nipple on the other end to hook to the vacuum pump hose. It seals perfectly. After changing oil I can only get about 1/2 cup of oil out of the drain plug.

syswei

Actually for the W222 they moved down to 10k in the US at least. For some reason they feel they need to line the dealers' pockets further?

mleskovar

Did you take off the oil filter cap so the oil wouldn't be vacuum locked?

platt-deutsch

When Changing oil removing the Oil Filter is first thing to do as then about a pint of oil will drain into the pan at once. after the filter is out then start extracting the old oil.

mleskovar

Why would you use both a pan and an extractor?

Keadog

I have an S550 4Matic on order. Does the car not have an oil drain plug? On all of my new Porsches, I change the oil and filter at 1K miles. You will get strong arguments on either side of the issue, but I can't imagine it doing the engine any harm to put in fresh oil after a 1K run in.
Anyhow, the "A" maintenance (at 10K - no way would I wait that long on I car I'm buying to keep) looks like an oil/filter change and a lot of things I do weekly on all of my cars: check and adjust tire pressure, check fluid levels, etc. Other than TSBs/recalls, I don't see much else that I wouldn't do myself anyhow a lot more frequently than 10K miles.
I haven't found much - does anyone have a link to a video or pics of accessing the drain plug, if one exists?
Thanks.

Keadog

I found this link if anyone is interested:
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/how-to-...uctions-video/
All I'll need is the 74mm oil filter wrench and the OEM filter.

platt-deutsch

I only checked to see what came out of the pan to be sure the vacuum extractor did its job the first time.

mleskovar

Thanks, makes sense now. I did almost the same thing but drained through the plug then opened the filter assembly. 1/2 quart more came out. I was skeptical at first about the vacuum method so did some tests. Also, after opening the filter chamber and using the plug I waited until it was starting to drip then measured how much dripped out. I figured that was what the vacuum tube would do as well. About 1/4 quart came out over the next 20 minutes. s-l-o-w-l-y So if you put 8 1/2 quarts in after the vacuum method you'd be overfill by a 1/4 a quart. Shouldn't hurt, can't help.

Keadog

If there are metal shavings, etc in the first run of oil, will they not settle to the bottom of the oil pan, making the process of siphoning from above "most" of the oil a less than optimal approach to the change?

mleskovar

If "shavings" are present you'd know without changing the oil because some catastrophic failure has occurred. If you are referring to the various metal particles present with natural wear that is what detergent oil is for. Those particles stay suspended so sludge doesn't form at the bottom of the pan. Warm oil before removing to make sure they are mixed in well and the oil flows quicker and more completely. I'm a big proponent of oil analysis. When you see how little wear....measured in ppm or parts per MILLION....a modern engine has you'll understand how far we've progressed with oil and motor technology.

Keadog

Interesting. Most P car people I know don't ever go more than 5K/or year between changes (I did 3K/6months but I drive less now so I do yearly on the Boxster). Do you feel a 10K interval is really OK for this car to last over 100K miles? Only cars I ever let go that long were my wife's A6 leases.
Thanks.

mleskovar

Depends on your driving style and environment. Only an oil analysis will tell you for sure. I had mine analyzed at one year/6K miles and it had plenty of additives remaining and surpassed all the wear critieria. Ran the oil for another year and 6K miles before I changed it and analysis showed it probably could have gone another year and 6K miles easily. But that was me. Changing oil based on time or mileage is only an educated guess....nothing more. The general consensus is "it can't hurt" and "it makes me feel better" to do it more often than recommended though. $25 for an analysis is money well spent. It tells you not only the state of the oil but also if anything is wearing prematurely or excessively in your motor.

Keadog

[QUOTE=mleskovar;673915 $25 for an analysis is money well spent. It tells you not only the state of the oil but also if anything is wearing prematurely or excessively in your motor.[/QUOTE]

Source/vendor? Thanks.

mleskovar

http://blackstonelabs.com/