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I replaced a hinge before due to that noise because I didn't know. With the door open, you can see a cap that looks like a nut, it will pop off and there's a tiny E-torx screw there that locks the pin into the hinge. If you remove them both you can separate the hinges and lift the door off the car. If they aren't VERY tight, seems like too much for a small screw but that's what it takes, then the pin inside rotates rather than the part of the hinge that's supposed to, causing the popping when opening the door.
It's possible it's defective, don't want to say that this is the only issue, but it's by far the most common one I've seen on 222 doors, many older/higher mileage ones have that noise and it's usually fixable without hinge replacement.
I'm having similar issues. Just tightening the bolt that's under the rubber cap has no effect. I was going to try and remove the door but I'm not sure how to disconnect the rubber electrical line. It looks like it can just disconnect, but maybe I'm wrong. I didn't want to start yanking on it as that would probably end up in a big repair bill =).
I'm having similar issues. Just tightening the bolt that's under the rubber cap has no effect. I was going to try and remove the door but I'm not sure how to disconnect the rubber electrical line. It looks like it can just disconnect, but maybe I'm wrong. I didn't want to start yanking on it as that would probably end up in a big repair bill =).
The rubber sleeve will pull out of the door, and the large connector will separate at the car, and you can lift the entire door off the hinges and away from the car. It's very nice for servicing major things actually.
The rubber sleeve will pull out of the door, and the large connector will separate at the car, and you can lift the entire door off the hinges and away from the car. It's very nice for servicing major things actually.
Well, from what I can tell looking at images of the hinge online, there's nothing to really do with it once the door is off (mine looks the same as what s550Scott posted above ). I don't see any additional screws or anywhere that you can apply some grease. The staying mechanism looks completely sealed in the hinge. Body shop quoted $620 to replace it, since you have to take the front fender off to get at the nuts behind the door frame.
What were you recommending be done after you removed the door?
If the locking nut is tight and it's making noise, then yes you have to replace it. There is nothing to do about lubricating them or anything like an adjustment for the detent mechanism.
You shouldn't have to remove the fender to remove the hinge. Bolts are inside the car and on the door. It does come unpainted so still going to require a body shop visit, and adjustment.
If the locking nut is tight and it's making noise, then yes you have to replace it. There is nothing to do about lubricating them or anything like an adjustment for the detent mechanism.
You shouldn't have to remove the fender to remove the hinge. Bolts are inside the car and on the door. It does come unpainted so still going to require a body shop visit, and adjustment.
I'm guessing the body shop was just following the service manual procedure. Can you just remove the trim on the inside of the door frame to get at the bolts?
. I think I've just fixed the same issue today on my W222. try to remove the "plastic" cover above the pin, and try to turn the black pin (see photo) tight and that might take care of it. It worked for me so far, try it and let me know how it goes. The black pin is painted and it will get scratched if you use simple tools, but that's why there is a plastic cover.
How tight does it have to be? Mines seem pretty tight, and it’s still making the popping noise as i close the door.
Anyone with the original hinge who is getting the popping noise ... might try a little spritz of Corrosion-X on the hinge gaps. It worked for me and should last a couple of years.
12-01-2020, 11:07 PM
