So it's starting to get nice outside finally and I had the window down while stopped. I turned the wheel with out moving forward and I heard a squeak, like dry suspension parts, as I turn the wheel it would squeal. So when I got home, I pushed down on the driver and passanger sides of the car, the driver side would squeak when I pushed down on it. To me this sounds kind of like a ball joint? Is any of the suspension on the 2018 greasable? What do you guys think? To me it drives normal. When it gets a little warmer I'll jack it up and take a look under there.

I had a similar issue. I replaced both lower control arms and the issue was solved.

Yeah that's what I think I'm going to have to do, since the ball joint isn't serviceable 😔 it's just crazy I have a bad ball joint at 45k miles, and also out of warranty.

Mine was about $1500 to replace by a private mechanic. I also had to replace mine at around 40k miles

In other posts, people have reported needing to replace suspension parts like these around 50k miles, attributing the problem to the car's weight.

Well looks like I'm going to be doing some control arms lol. I took a peek under there this morning, everything looks good and brand new. Gonna get under it and pin point exactly what joint it is as there looks to be 3? 2 lowers and an upper?

I usually get my parts from FCP, but all they have for the lower arm is a brand called Lemforder for about the same price I can get a OEM arm from a dealer. Fcp has the lifetime warranty on the part but it's not OEM so I'm kind of torn on what to do. I'm going to be doing my own work so labor is free, but if Lemforder is lessor quality I don't want to be doing the job every year lol. Anyone have experience with Lemforder? Or should I just stick with OEM?

Yes, there are two lowers and one upper. If you look at parts sites like RockAuto, you'll see many replacement lowers listed and few uppers, which makes me think the wear happens more on the lowers.

When you change these would you mind posting any tips? As always it would be great if someone had the torque specs for every fastener, and then there's the question about whether to torque the bushings with the weight of the car on the wheels. An interesting aspect of this design is that the ball joint tapers fit into separate steel 'bells' that seat into the aluminum spindle. Presumably these 'bells' just drop out after you remove the ball joint.

Sure, I'll come back to this thread and post some tips and pictures.I have WIS and in the manual it doesn't mention anything that I haven't seen before with changing a control arm. From previous suspension parts I've changed, the consensus is to always tighten anything with a bushing at ride height. Here is the .PDF for the whole job TQ specs and all.

Very cool, thanks. Only peculiar thing I see in the PDF is items 8 and 9 ... "bracket for coolant pump/switchover valve to radiator". Maybe something you can't really see until you're in there taking stuff apart

BTW, is a good assumption that Nm x 0.625 = Ft Lbs?

I saw that too, that says its on the right side. My issue is on the left (even tho I know I should probably do both, I'm going to just do one for now) when I looked I didn't see any of that. When I get a chance to get under the car ill report back with some pics to get a better idea of whats there.

Conversion for Nm to TQ is 1Nm = 0.738 ft-lbs

2Nm = 1.475 ft-lbs, this is easier for me to remember basically 1.5 ft-lbs per 2 Nm. I usually just ask Google or Alexa when I'm in a bind lol

It also does say most of the nuts need to be tightened to a specific torque and then an additional 90 degrees. Makes me wonder if all the nuts I take off need to be replaced as they are probably one use.