Originally Posted by efglover

I'm trying to remove/replace the right-side (passenger) turbo cooling lines on my M278 with the engine in the car. I can't get a socket on the bolt because of a mystery bolt protruding from the frame (see picture below).



The bolt doesn't seem to have a purpose but it's blocking me from removing the turbo cooling line. Does anyone know the purpose of the frame bolt?

I tried removing it but the aluminum head is too soft so the box wrench rounded off the corners. I tried removing it with vice grips but it's too tight, it won't budge. It doesn't seem to be needed so I've thought about cutting off the threaded stud end of the bolt.

Any advice?

Originally Posted by Bigg Willi

FIRST, THIS IS NOT AN EASY JOB! I have 6 years experience as a USAF Master Technician, built and installed 2 LS engines, worked on Nissan, Honda, Jaguar and Mercedes drivetrains, The M278 was a challenge for me simply due to the amount of things that need to be removed and the tools required to even access the WP.
MY DISCLAIMER, I don't give specific tool sizes or torque values, you pull that info to show it's on YOU! If you decide to do the job.
I did this last year but am just getting around to posting it.
Ok let's go..
This actually came to be because one of my turbo coolant lines broke off.




Coming together.

Finished.


Willi...any chance you recall details on O-ring part 55 in above diagram? The new water pump comes with the ring that seals the therm housing to WP...and the thermostat itself already has an O-ring on it...so where does #55 land?!

Originally Posted by Bigg Willi

FIRST, THIS IS NOT AN EASY JOB! I have 6 years experience as a USAF Master Technician, built and installed 2 LS engines, worked on Nissan, Honda, Jaguar and Mercedes drivetrains, The M278 was a challenge for me simply due to the amount of things that need to be removed and the tools required to even access the WP.
MY DISCLAIMER, I don't give specific tool sizes or torque values, you pull that info to show it's on YOU! If you decide to do the job.
I did this last year but am just getting around to posting it.
Ok let's go..
This actually came to be because one of my turbo coolant lines broke off.

Plastic everywhere...
I'd learned from working on my previous car a 2010 Jaguar XFR that the plastic engine parts, need to be put on a regular replacement schedule if your not looking to be stranded. and because these import super V8's are so compacted, you should always have a "while I'm in there" approach to working on them so.
Tools needed
A small spline 1/4 drive socket set, Splines can drive ANY shaped bolt or nut.
A gimbal 1/4 hand rachet.
1/4 drive solid and flex (wound spring) extensions.
Dedicated torx male and female 3/8 drive socket set. Long and short length for the male set.
A coolant pressure test/vacuum fill kit. This requires compressed air.
Parts needed
New water pump and gasket, they make 2 versions one with a plastic pulley as stock, and one with a aluminum pulley, I went with the aluminum pulley.
THE "while I'm in there stuff'.
New thermostat (did this)
New oil filter housing seal (wish I did this) mine wasn't leaking YET?
This coolant line

MB pn 2782031217
This line actually sits on top of the engine but always breaks especially the end that goes into the timing cover, If that happens thread a Phillips screw into the remaining piece and pull it out with some vise grips, once you break it treat it as a 1 time shot to get it out.
The job
Get the front of the car up on jackstands or ramps
remove the front 2 lower engine covers
remove the coolant surge tank cap, I replaced both the cap and tank.
drain the cooling system
remove the air intake ducts and drive belt

Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the oil filter housing an this coolant hose at this clamp to gain access to the turbo air ducting on the driver side.

Now your basically going to keep removing parts to gain total access to the water pump bolts, there are a couple near the crank pulley that are a challenge, in addition they are different lengths. I made a template using the new water pump gasket, as I remove a water pump bolt it went in the corresponding hold on that template. see where the plastic turbo coolant line broke off.

Everything cleared out, reverse the steps for the install. Notice you only need to re move the driver side turbo ducting to get at BOTH turbo coolant lines.
Clean the water pump mounting area with PLASTIC scrapers or razors ONLY!

The turbo coolant lines at the turbo are HARD to remove, just go slow and try and pry on all sides evenly. Lube the seals an hole with Vaseline on the install, it melts away quickly. DO NOT USE THE RETAINING BOLT TO TO SEAT THE NEW LINES BY TIGHTENING! You need to seat them by hand, then torque the retaining bolt down.

Old and new WP.

I laid things out, went with Victory Road Perf 5 pulley set.

Coming together.

Finished.

WP

Belt route

Not at this price anymore..LOL

Originally Posted by Bigg Willi

FIRST, THIS IS NOT AN EASY JOB! I have 6 years experience as a USAF Master Technician, built and installed 2 LS engines, worked on Nissan, Honda, Jaguar and Mercedes drivetrains, The M278 was a challenge for me simply due to the amount of things that need to be removed and the tools required to even access the WP.
MY DISCLAIMER, I don't give specific tool sizes or torque values, you pull that info to show it's on YOU! If you decide to do the job.
I did this last year but am just getting around to posting it.
Ok let's go..
This actually came to be because one of my turbo coolant lines broke off.

Plastic everywhere...
I'd learned from working on my previous car a 2010 Jaguar XFR that the plastic engine parts, need to be put on a regular replacement schedule if your not looking to be stranded. and because these import super V8's are so compacted, you should always have a "while I'm in there" approach to working on them so.
Tools needed
A small spline 1/4 drive socket set, Splines can drive ANY shaped bolt or nut.
A gimbal 1/4 hand rachet.
1/4 drive solid and flex (wound spring) extensions.
Dedicated torx male and female 3/8 drive socket set. Long and short length for the male set.
A coolant pressure test/vacuum fill kit. This requires compressed air.
Parts needed
New water pump and gasket, they make 2 versions one with a plastic pulley as stock, and one with a aluminum pulley, I went with the aluminum pulley.
THE "while I'm in there stuff'.
New thermostat (did this)
New oil filter housing seal (wish I did this) mine wasn't leaking YET?
This coolant line

MB pn 2782031217
This line actually sits on top of the engine but always breaks especially the end that goes into the timing cover, If that happens thread a Phillips screw into the remaining piece and pull it out with some vise grips, once you break it treat it as a 1 time shot to get it out.
The job
Get the front of the car up on jackstands or ramps
remove the front 2 lower engine covers
remove the coolant surge tank cap, I replaced both the cap and tank.
drain the cooling system
remove the air intake ducts and drive belt

Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the oil filter housing an this coolant hose at this clamp to gain access to the turbo air ducting on the driver side.

Now your basically going to keep removing parts to gain total access to the water pump bolts, there are a couple near the crank pulley that are a challenge, in addition they are different lengths. I made a template using the new water pump gasket, as I remove a water pump bolt it went in the corresponding hold on that template. see where the plastic turbo coolant line broke off.

Everything cleared out, reverse the steps for the install. Notice you only need to re move the driver side turbo ducting to get at BOTH turbo coolant lines.
Clean the water pump mounting area with PLASTIC scrapers or razors ONLY!

The turbo coolant lines at the turbo are HARD to remove, just go slow and try and pry on all sides evenly. Lube the seals an hole with Vaseline on the install, it melts away quickly. DO NOT USE THE RETAINING BOLT TO TO SEAT THE NEW LINES BY TIGHTENING! You need to seat them by hand, then torque the retaining bolt down.

Old and new WP.

I laid things out, went with Victory Road Perf 5 pulley set.

Coming together.

Finished.

WP

Belt route

Not at this price anymore..LOL

Originally Posted by Kingcorte

how on gods green earth did you remove the pulley on the tensioner??? Mine seems irremovable?