Bigg Willi

FIRST, THIS IS NOT AN EASY JOB! I have 6 years experience as a USAF Master Technician, built and installed 2 LS engines, worked on Nissan, Honda, Jaguar and Mercedes drivetrains, The M278/M157 was a challenge for me simply due to the amount of things that need to be removed and the tools required to even access the WP.
MY DISCLAIMER, I don't give specific tool sizes or torque values, you pull that info to show it's on YOU! If you decide to do the job.
I did this last year but am just getting around to posting it.
Ok let's go..
This actually came to be because one of my turbo coolant lines broke off.

Plastic everywhere...
I'd learned from working on my previous car a 2010 Jaguar XFR that the plastic engine parts, need to be put on a regular replacement schedule if your not looking to be stranded. and because these import super V8's are so compacted, you should always have a "while I'm in there" approach to working on them so.
Tools needed
A small spline 1/4 drive socket set, Splines can drive ANY shaped bolt or nut.
A gimbal 1/4 hand rachet.
1/4 drive solid and flex (wound spring) extensions.
Dedicated torx male and female 3/8 drive socket set. Long and short length for the male set.
A coolant pressure test/vacuum fill kit. This requires compressed air.
Parts needed
New water pump and gasket, they make 2 WP versions one with a plastic pulley as stock, and one with a aluminum pulley, I went with the aluminum pulley.
THE "while I'm in there stuff'.
New thermostat (did this)
New oil filter housing seal (wish I did this) mine wasn't leaking YET?
This coolant line

MB pn 2782031217
This line actually sits on top of the engine but always breaks especially the end that goes into the timing cover, If that happens thread an appropriate WOOD screw into the remaining piece and pull it out with some vise grips, once you break it treat it as a 1 time shot to get it out.
The job
Get the front of the car up on jack stands or ramps
remove the front 2 lower engine covers
remove the coolant surge tank cap, I replaced both the cap and tank.
drain the cooling system
remove the air intake ducts and drive belt

Disconnect the oil cooler lines (The first and last thing you'll do on this job) from the oil filter housing, and this coolant hose at this clamp to gain access to the turbo air ducting on the driver side.

Now your basically going to keep removing parts to gain total access to the water pump bolts, there are a couple near the crank pulley that are a challenge, in addition the bolts are different lengths. I made a template using the new water pump gasket, as I remove a water pump bolt it went in the corresponding hole on that template. see where the plastic turbo coolant line broke off.

Everything cleared out, reverse the steps for the install. Notice you only need to re move the driver side turbo ducting to get at BOTH turbo coolant lines. But to do the oil cooler and filter housing seals, all ducting must come off.
Clean the water pump mounting area with PLASTIC scrapers or razors ONLY!

The turbo coolant lines at the turbo are HARD to remove, just go slow and try and pry on all sides evenly, some penetrating oil helps. Lube the seals an hole with spark plug boot grease on the install, it won't melt away. DO NOT USE THE RETAINING BOLT TO TO SEAT THE NEW LINES BY TIGHTENING! You need to seat them by hand, then torque the retaining bolt down, lube on the nipples helps a lot. The turbo cooling lines bolt downs are stacked, just remember the upper line stacks on top of the lower line for bolting down sakes on both turbos.

Old and new WP.

I laid things out, went with Victory Road Perf 5 pulley set.

Coming together.

Finished.

WP

Belt route

Not at this price anymore..LOL

Well I'm doing it again LOL, this time on my 2015 S63, 70kmi seems to be the magic number (this car has 71kmi, the 2014 S550 had 78kmi) Key info, if your heater control valve, or rear water through firewall nipple that feeds the heater control valve and washer fluid heater goes as mine did right before on both cars, the turbo cooling lines are not far behind.
It's actually a little bit more room to work in the coupe vs the sedan. Everything is pretty much the same, but I am hitting all the while your in there things like the oil cooler and filter housing seals.

Parts Parts Parts.

Going back together now..The oil cooler (block on the right) will need some gentle prying to get off. MANY OF THE FRONT TIMING COVER HOLES ARE BLIND SO YOU NEED TO BLOW THEM OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR AS ANY COOLANT TRAPPED BEHIND A BOLT UNDER PRESSURE OF TIGHTENING BECOMES A SOLID AND CAN DAMAGE (CRACK) THE COVER BEYOND REPAIR!

The old stuff. Yes, I'm doing aluminum pullies again, couldn't get them off the S550 before the trade in.

It helps to make sure ALL THE BOLTS ARE OUT! There should be another bolt hole on the bottom between the 2 shown, it was still attached to the engine.

If you replace the oil filter housing, this pulley tower is not tapped on the new one.

M8 x 1.25 is the tap size, my tap depth was down till only 4 threads where showing on the tap.

This bolt goes in the pulley behind the large driver side air intake.

Tapped with new pulley installed.

This is what I did to hold the gasket in place on the oil cooler for installation, get the bolts started then cut the old oring.

I used 600 grit sand paper lubed with WD40 to remove any roughness on the gasket sealing area.

Before attempting to install the turbo end of the cooling lines, tuck a towel in the space below the lines, that way if you drop that bolt it doesn't fall into oblivion..

Don't forget to plug these outlets on the water pump.:

Coming along fine.

I swapped out the torx for flange bolts on both turbos. Flage bolts are just easier to work with, and way more forgiving.


No more bolts left=ALL DONE!

Held a this vacuum for 1 hour. Used this same vacuum to fill up the coolant.

Ready for the road..

Real quick, these panel attachments (GM on the left MB on the right) from MB are 8mm, aluminum, strip easily after maybe 4 uses and are $7 ea. from MB just for the bolt. The GM ones (Thank my 99 Z28) will fit wherever the MB go, are 10mm, all steel, I've never had one strip out and I got like 25 on Amazon for $15. I run them on ALL the bolt on under panels on my S63.

SilverArrow44

Thank you for drafting and sharing this detailed write-up with the community. Someone at some point will most certainly need this!

Jim Ma

Why did you replace the water pump? Was that a “while you were in there” replacement?

Bigg Willi

Yes it was, at the time the car had 78kmi. And I liked the look of the aluminum wp pulley vs the plastic stock wp pulley.

Tom in Austin

Interesting, a plastic pulley on a water pump. Nice write up, hope mine lasts a long time and I never have to change it (or pay someone to do it!)

I have done the water pump on my Porsche 928 and that's an interesting job. The nut on the crankshaft pulley takes 175 ft lbs and then you have to take off the entire timing belt system and work the front wiring harness through a small opening to get it out of the way. On a job like this, always a smart idea to refresh the tensioner(s) and pulleys while you're in there!

Mitch Alsup

Quite:: On my 25 YO Ferrari, every other major (engine out service) I have them use new rubber and plastic where ever it is found in the engine bay.
Water lines, oil lines, air lines, vacuum lines, brake lines, fuel lines, ...

Nice Ride

Excellent write up!!!! I'm surprised you did not replace the Screws/bolts for the pump, my OCD would have kicked in and made me do it.
Question, where did you get those air Snorkels.... OEM will always split apart if not handled with kt gloves...

BenzV12

That's a great write up and I appreciate your sharing this massive job with the forum as well
It's a pleasure to see such talented and skillful members like you
Happy Driving

Bigg Willi

I thought about that, if I still own the car at next WP change, I will convert the torx to flange bolt as I did in my Jag XFR.

Jaybird123

This may sound odd, but did your new water pump have a threaded hole for the guide pulley when you received it? I just received an OEM new water pump from FCP Euro, exact match to my OEM original, EXCEPT no threads to accept torx bolt for pulley above the big pump wheel!

I've already pinged FCP Euro about it and they agree it should be threaded, just a curious factory mishap I suppose...I would attach pics, but I forget how and my brain is tired now

Jaybird123

no threads!

Threads!

Nice Ride

Did FCP respond?
Does anyone know if a better solution exists for the Turbo Lines other than OEM, I thought I saw somewhere that they have upgraded replacements made of aluminum.

Jaybird123

FCP agreed via chat that it should be threaded, said they needed to confirm with MBZ rep or something…then went quiet for two days :/

the only job I can do until that is resolved…is the dreaded turbo lines hahaha

Bigg Willi

My WP was exactly like the factory one that cam off except the pulley and impeller were aluminum instead of the factory plastic.

Bigg Willi

I couldn't find a better option, and I looked at
FCP
Weistec
VRP
BRAUBUS
M-B as in the BLACK series.

Bigg Willi

I couldn't find a better option, and I looked at
FCP
Weistec
VRP
BRAUBUS
M-B as in the BLACK series.

w126w221

Was updating the valve train tensioners and check valves on my W221, when this job suddenly popped up thanks to the crumbling turbo coolant lines on the water pump side. I was cursing the turbo side coolant lines for days! Thankfully after extended soaking and a uniquely shaped pry bar, my Father and I were able to wiggle them out!

Nice Ride

Called a Local Dealer and asked for a quote for the 2 Turbo Lines, He stated that all the lines are revised and would quote to do all 5, it was too much work for him to be bothered to figure out just the front 2 that crack and he stated the other 3 lines have problems also. No one mentioned anywhere that there is a total of 5 turbo lines....

P.S. Where did you source that Green Belt... Anything special?

Jaybird123

[QUOTE=Nice Ride;8775493]Called a Local Dealer and asked for a quote for the 2 Turbo Lines, He stated that all the lines are revised and would quote to do all 5, it was too much work for him to be bothered to figure out just the front 2 that crack and he stated the other 3 lines have problems also. No one mentioned anywhere that there is a total of 5 turbo lines....

-> The fifth line is an interconnecting line with plastic junctions between left and right side, I believe. I know this b/c one of my left turbo lines broke at water pump connection, while the other one broke at this 5th line junction. I ordered 2 left lines from FCP Euro and 5th line from AutohausAZ just last week...

Frustrating but informative note on replacement water pump issue I encountered re non-threaded pulley hole...it seems that is (?now) the way they come from OEM, and you have to buy a $15 self-tapping M8 bolt (from MBZ) in order to prep hole for new pulley. Good times...

Bigg Willi

Green belt is a Gates FleetRunner. Ultra high milage belt.

AngelT

I’m having a hard time putting the aluminum pipe back on the turbo. Do you have any tips?

Bigg Willi

I used a tiny 1/4 drive, spline socket set. Even then it's a tight fit.

Jaybird123

Did you succeed? I am having much difficulty here as well. I can get the bottom line seated, but not the top one :/

Bigg Willi

Seems I remember the line hold downs are offset so they can be held in place stacked by one bolt. Make sure you have them stacked correctly.

Jaybird123

OMG. I just scanned your pics at the very top of this chain...Pic #6 shows your lines installed with bolt...and the top turbo line connector appears about a 1/4" sticking out! That's why I couldn't get it in any further!! HAHA omg this car is killing me.

I will have no knuckles left by the time I put this car back on the road...and I sure hope it starts and PURRS lol

Thanks so much! Back to the cam adjuster nightmare job