vgahdmi123

I am frustrated again because mv VW Golf worth 15k does not experience any vibrations even on high speed, but my 120k S class has vibrations.

Up to 130 kmh all is ok.
They appear on 140 kmh, steering wheel gets vibrations.
On 160 kmh seat starts shaking.
On 180 kmh, even floor has vibrations.

Official service claims suspension is ok, rims are not bent, they are balanced with brand new michelin ps4. Vibration is there either in gear or neutral. Gas pedal pressed or released does not help. Turning steering wheel-no change.

What to do?? Is it maybe because of 20", should i buy 18" rims? Or it is normal maybe to have some vibrations? Any ideas?

Thanks

Katie22

I can tell you this. One of my vehicles is a 22 F!50 Limited truck (with 22 inch wheels). I had to replace the tires and went through a lot of frustration to get a vibration resolved thereafter. For my problem it was that the specs on the truck allow a road force to be around 20 but if its at 20 it vibrates and high speed. If the tire shop takes extra time they can get the road force down to 10 BUT I have to explain that to them and tell them that the truck is very sensitive to road force numbers.. So when they took the time to get the road force to 10 the vibrations went away. I cannot say if this is the case for you but it might be a road force measurement issue.

Put in a different way my truck and perhaps your car has as tire road force spec range that is acceptable and the tire store might have the road force at the outer limit of its acceptable range.

AS far as my 2016 Maybach that I had it never had issues with vibration but dam that factory camber setting ate up the rear tires but that's a story i have already discussed.

superswiss

Just to add to the above post. Many shops only do basic spin balancing. The tires may seem balanced, but once they roll on the road and the tire/wheel assembly is not truly round, you will have vibration. The lower the profile of the tires, the more critical this becomes. Taller sidewalls can absorb much of this, but with low profile sidewalls, you gonna have vibrations. To that end, as mentioned above, you wanna get your tires road force balanced. It costs more and not all shops have the equipment. Basically this works by pressing a roller against the tire during balancing and measure the road force. Then the machine will tell the tech to turn the tire on the wheel to align the high/low points between wheel and tire to make the tire roll as round as possible.

How good the road force balancing is comes down to the numbers. Generally 40 lbs or below is considered good, but you wanna be below 20 lbs as said. 20 lbs is pretty much the upper threshold for low profile tires and can still cause vibrations. Best would be to get under 10 lbs. This process will also uncover quality issues in the tire itself and if the wheels are bent. Assuming that they told you the truth and the wheels are not bent, then it could still be that one or more of the new tires have defects. This will all come to light if they can't get the desired road force numbers.

Katie22

Ahh as further explained I should have said the 22 F150 I have has low profile tires as per from the factory.

Mitch Alsup

If it were me:: I would pull out my dial indicators and make sure that everything that is supposed to be round IS round within 0.002" (0.05mm)
{Wheels edges, center, rims, concentricity wrt hub},{drive lines}, {brake rotors edge and faces}, {hubs},...
Also while "in there" give everything a hard tug to see if any bearings have worn out.

If you do not find anything out of round and/or out of concentricity then it HAS to be a balance problem.
Note: brake rotors CAN have balance problems, just like wheels and tires. So can drive line components.

VII

Improper balance, defective tire or bent wheel at front, Mercedeses will do 300km/h with the same serenity they do 100km/h (just windier).

BenzV12

I had experienced that before with a different car . The tires were rebalanced and that vibrations above certain speeds were gone as well

dlafever

If your car is near 100k miles it's worth your time to check all the front suspension components. I just last night finished the right front after completing the left front over the weekend. All three of the major components were at end of service life and were original parts based on their p/n's.

For both right and left;

• Lower contol arm inner bushing shot
• Thrust arms inner bushing shot
• Upper control arm bushings torn both front and rear. Despite the through bolts being torqued well previously, you could easly move this control arm with one finger.

All of this is really expected wear on a car this size and mass (and age), lots of physics going on. So along with tires/wheels/road force balancing add a sprinkle of normal suspension wear.

dunaj6

borrow completely different wheels and try to change them if the problem will be the same its not about rims, tires, balancing (ofc make sure the other wheels are well balanced)

anyway, does this shaking makes also some sound from the wheels? if yes, does the sound changes when you change the car direction? I mean when you try to change lanes on highway for example left right left right... if yes it will be most likely bad wheel bearing.

and for sure its not normal i dont really feel difference between 100 kmh and 250....