Cold start, high revs and stalling
But aafter that first second, it all levels off and drives perfectly. Tons of power. No codes.
Any ideas? First thought would be fuel pump but it's only on immediate cold start.
But aafter that first second, it all levels off and drives perfectly. Tons of power. No codes.
Any ideas? First thought would be fuel pump but it's only on immediate cold start.




1. Problem is indicated on full cold start
2. Propensity to stall is indicated (the V12 is not stalling for 1 cylinder)
But aafter that first second, it all levels off and drives perfectly. Tons of power. No codes.
Any ideas? First thought would be fuel pump but it's only on immediate cold start.
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But aafter that first second, it all levels off and drives perfectly. Tons of power. No codes.
Any ideas? First thought would be fuel pump but it's only on immediate cold start.
I think this has to do with battery condition::
a) cold start on slightly low battery, engine comes to life
b) as alternator puts load on engine (to charge battery) RMP drops
c) ECU sees RPM drop, and adds throttle
d) added throttle takes care of stumble
e) ECU sees RPMs rise and takes enough throttle out
f) to allow engine to cold idle where ECU wants it
g) still carrying the added load of the alternator charging battery.
Stone cold; power it up without starting. Observe what the computer sees from sensors. Coolant temperature and intake air temperature must read ambient. Watch engine speed as it cranks and shortly after starting. The V-12 powered 221 car used a crankshaft position sensor that looked the same as is fitted to the E-55 that famously makes for cold starting to dies issues. I don’t know if the same sensor is in our 222 cars but worth checking. My 221 S-65 intermittently did a rough start up after having been parked in warm weather. Winter gas would boil in fuel rails so vapor in the rail. The fuel pump would pump to a pressure (and reportedly quantity) of fuel. Took extended crank time to start up with many misfires, stalls for 30 seconds. Once cleared up ran perfectly. Rarely made for a multiple random misfire code. My 222 S65 has never done this. The V-12 powered cars seem to be challenged with figuring out which cylinder(s) misfire. No doubt due to cylinders firing every 60 degrees which makes picking out a small drop in engine speed difficult.
All V-12 powered cars use port injection. Port injection... zero carbon in intake ports as it is forever rinsed. Injectors are not troublesome as in direct injected cars.
Load from the alternator is immaterial. Engine management applies throttle as needed.
A vacuum leak will make for erratic operation. Certainly worth looking for.
Last edited by JohnLane; Sep 10, 2025 at 12:52 PM.
How do I check for a leaking injector, or at least target the bank it's leaking on? I'm still scarred by working on the injectors on my Range Rover.
Have you followed any suggestions offered there?
Before chasing after injectors that are not a common failure start with basics.
Last edited by JohnLane; Oct 4, 2025 at 10:37 AM.
When the engine is running, I'm at 6.7 bars of fuel pressure. When it's off for 20 seconds, it drops to 4 bar, and 20 seconds later, its' below 2 bar.
Client got very very lucky. No bent rods. No other damage.
Fresh set of injectors starter, fresh oil (twice) and she runs like new.
Do real testing to verify that injectors are OK. Read spark plugs. They will let you know if a cylinder is getting fuel dumped on it. Though the above mentioned S-65 had plugs that looked normal. They were almost new after all. OHM test all injectors. Pull the fuel rail with all injectors in it and manually operate each injector to compare spray patterns.
Client got very very lucky. No bent rods. No other damage.
Fresh set of injectors starter, fresh oil (twice) and she runs like new.
Do real testing to verify that injectors are OK. Read spark plugs. They will let you know if a cylinder is getting fuel dumped on it. Though the above mentioned S-65 had plugs that looked normal. They were almost new after all. OHM test all injectors. Pull the fuel rail with all injectors in it and manually operate each injector to compare spray patterns.
Possibly I have a leaking injector, but how to tell which one? I'd prefer not to pull/replace all 12 of them because it's probably just one failing, if it is leaking
Possibly I have a leaking injector, but how to tell which one? I'd prefer not to pull/replace all 12 of them because it's probably just one failing, if it is leaking
I’m not sure if xentry or other scan tool can do this on w222, but you could pressurize fuel system by activating fuel pump. Then with scan tool, individually activate each fuel injector and look at fuel pressure drop when doing so. You’ll see a difference in pressure drop between good ones and leaky one.









