SteveFox

I just came back from data logging to get some readings on intake air temps and coolant temps. The second run after these two didn't give me any supercharger function at all. But i didn't get any trouble codes thrown at me. Are these temps too high, and if so why didn't any troble codes get thrown at me if the supercharger was switched off by the ECU.

Also, if these temps are indeed too high would this be enough ammo to get the stealership to change out the intercooler for me?

whoover

IAT is too high. Anything over 199 will prevent the supercharger from engaging. Your intercooler coolant pump failed, not the intercooler. It is a well-known issue that this doesn't trigger any codes. If the dealer has any experience with supercharged cars at all, this is all they need to prove your pump needs replacing.

Vadim @ FD

It is the IC pump. You can see it shutting down kompressor clutch at 255F.

epj1906

Don't know if you particular dealer will fix it based on your word alone. My dealer wouldn't because they said that the car was not showing any codes. They wouldn't take my word for it, but I didn't have the data and graphs to back me up like you do.

I ordered the Ford Lightning pump and installed it myself this weekend. Took me about 3 hours total since it was my first attempt at any maintenance on my S55. Now my IAT's never went past 138 F at WOT. The car idles at around 77 degrees F now. After I changed the pump I went out and ran back to back 1/4 mi sprints @ 12.5 & 12.7 secs. Probably could have shaved a tenth or two off those times with better grip, since I couldn't control the wheel spin. It takes time to get a proper launch technique.

CynCarvin32

yep broken pump for sure. Nice nology software. I did the same thing with a C32 to do endless testing for intercooler failures and upgrades. Your max value is far to high. It should stay in the 180 range on the warm days with a great deal of WOT driving. My E55 gets to the 180's on very warm days but falls quickly when I back off. If i were to track the car it might shut down on very hot days. Imagine what happens in the middle east.

vegas 55

Sometimes my charger wont engage if I work on the charger. All of a sudden will not engage then, after 3 or four minutes it will engage then. it wont....It baffles me but the dealer says they fixed it

epj1906

I didn't find it that difficult at all to change the pump. It just takes time to remove the wheel and the wheel well cover. I have air tools so that made it a little easier. I could do it in a hour if I had to do it all over again, now that I know exactly what I am doing.

Lysholm Master

What's the part number for the Lightning pump? What's involved in the install?

epj1906

Ford Lightning "Bosch Intercooler" Pump, P/N 0 392 022 002



The pump is $89.00 shipped from Diversified Products (734) 459-0130, or you can find it on Ebay for about $75 shipped.

The Mercedes OEM pump is a Bosch Pump, P/N 0 392 022 003 and cost $379.53 from the dealer.

Pump is the same Bosch unit used on the supercharged Mercedes cars, with the following two exceptions: The wiring plug is different, and the water outlet and inlet tubes are slightly smaller on the replacement pump. Both of these issues are easily resolved, as described in the following installation steps:

1. Jack up front passenger side wheel, and remove.
2. Remove the roughly 1' x 1' plastic piece that is towards the front of the car in the passenger-side front wheel-well. This entails removing three 10mm bolts in the wheel well, one plastic plug in the wheel well, and two or three plastic plugs under the passenger side of the front bumper. Remove the plastic piece completely (do not try to just bend it to access the I/C pump).
3. You will now be able to see the P.O.S. intercooler pump. It is mounted to the car with a couple of nuts on studs below, and a small bolt in the same region. It has an inlet and an outlet hose, with those stupid spring-loaded hose clamps that are impossible to remove. Try pliers and a flat screwdriver.
4. Once you remove the hoses and the mounting bolts (and the 12v plug), you will now be able to remove the pump and mounting bracket.
5. Remove the metal mounting bracket and rubber sleeve from the old pump (you may need to pry between the sleeve and the pump to loosen the rubber sleeve from the metal) and save them.
6. Now you need to swap the plastic housing piece with the inlet and outlet tubes from the old pump to the new pump, as the new pump has tubes which are slightly smaller (the idea is to move the old inlet/outlet tube piece to the new pump). Unscrew the six star screws holding the outlet and inlet tube housing on the old pump. Remove the plastic piece with the inlet/outlet tubes. Now remove the similar piece from the new pump (gold Phillips screws). Take care, as those gold Phillips screws strip very easily. Now, carefully place the inlet/outlet tube piece from the old pump onto the new pump, taking care to assure that the orange o-ring is properly positioned. Secure the old inlet/outlet housing with the gold Phillips screws.
6. Using two appropriately-sized hose clamps (I tossed those spring-loaded things, and used traditional "screw-adjust" clamps), re-connect the plumbing to the new pump. Tighten the clamps.
7. Use the old mounting hardware (rubber sleeve and metal bracket) and mount the pump just like the old one.
8. Now for the electrical. You will note that the C32 electrical plug to the old pump is completely non-usable with the new pump. The new pump has small spades protruding, where the C32 plug is for very small posts. I cut the plug off of the existing C32 wiring coming to the pump, stripped a 1/4" piece of wire, and used two small female spade connectors, which slid right over the male spades coming out of the pump. I then slathered on some West Marine Liquid Electrical Tape to waterproof the whole thing. Not the prettiest solution, but it works.
9. Refill your liquid source for the pump, and voila. Check (before replacing plastic cover and wheel) by starting car, letting it run for a minute or so, and then turning off. Go over to the right front wheel. You should hear the pump running for 5-20 seconds after turning the car off. Check for leaks.