ABC reliability? --not your typical ABC thread--
05-13-2014, 10:13 AM
#26
Super Member
Thread Starter
When the weight is on the wheels, the connectors are held tight by hydraulic pressure, so the first thing to do is jack the car up so the wheel is hanging (incidentally, while you're doing that, shake the wheel up and down to see if the strut top bush is tight or slack - they're prone to wear).
Assuming there's no pressure in the line, pry the rubber cover up so the quick-release collar is uncovered. It should spin round, but often doesn't. I don't know an easy way round this. What I did with mine was manipulate it with Mole grips. It won't slide up and down straight away (like someone in some Mercedes Benz Ivory Tower imagined it would) but you should be able to rotate it a degree clockwise and back, then two degrees, then three...
Eventually you'll be able to spin it all the way round, then you can start trying to slide it up and down. Its a long, gradual process, but you'll get there. If you have a strut or hose fail, it will be painful, but if you just happen to have the car jacked up, a bit of preventative maintenance now and again doesn't hurt.
Funnily enough, all the other ABC threaded joints are a straightfoward to undo. Only possible exception is where the metal pipes go into the tops of the struts themselves, but that's only when you need to swap left and right struts (as those pipes are handed - otherwise the L&R struts are the same).
Nick
PS. Incidentally, its worth draining some fluid whenever you have a wheel off. Put a clear hose on the bleed/drain nipple and open it slightly to drain some dirty oil out. Jack the suspension arm up as far as it will go, so the strut is fully compressed. That will get almost all the oil out of the strut.
This helps because the oil in the pump/regulator/cooler/valves circuit is continuously circulating and filtered. The oil in the struts, and in the lines up to the valves, just goes backwards and forwards, and doesn't get filtered. Therefore it gets very dirty, so get it out whenever its convenient.
Jack the car using the car's pillar jack, as that corner will be slammed when you let it back down again. However, the strut will fill itself with clean oil once you start it up again.
Assuming there's no pressure in the line, pry the rubber cover up so the quick-release collar is uncovered. It should spin round, but often doesn't. I don't know an easy way round this. What I did with mine was manipulate it with Mole grips. It won't slide up and down straight away (like someone in some Mercedes Benz Ivory Tower imagined it would) but you should be able to rotate it a degree clockwise and back, then two degrees, then three...
Eventually you'll be able to spin it all the way round, then you can start trying to slide it up and down. Its a long, gradual process, but you'll get there. If you have a strut or hose fail, it will be painful, but if you just happen to have the car jacked up, a bit of preventative maintenance now and again doesn't hurt.
Funnily enough, all the other ABC threaded joints are a straightfoward to undo. Only possible exception is where the metal pipes go into the tops of the struts themselves, but that's only when you need to swap left and right struts (as those pipes are handed - otherwise the L&R struts are the same).
Nick
PS. Incidentally, its worth draining some fluid whenever you have a wheel off. Put a clear hose on the bleed/drain nipple and open it slightly to drain some dirty oil out. Jack the suspension arm up as far as it will go, so the strut is fully compressed. That will get almost all the oil out of the strut.
This helps because the oil in the pump/regulator/cooler/valves circuit is continuously circulating and filtered. The oil in the struts, and in the lines up to the valves, just goes backwards and forwards, and doesn't get filtered. Therefore it gets very dirty, so get it out whenever its convenient.
Jack the car using the car's pillar jack, as that corner will be slammed when you let it back down again. However, the strut will fill itself with clean oil once you start it up again.
Thanks again!
Ricky
05-13-2014, 07:06 PM
#28
Super Member
Thread Starter
Not that I could care less about fuel economy... If I was concerned with that I'd go buy a diesel. LOL. Gotta offset the loonies and their Toyota Pious's (Pioui? Piouses?) somehow ! Correction, I should be thankful for those people. Only means there's more gas for my cars!
05-16-2014, 02:15 PM
#29
Senior Member
ABC warning finally showed up at 68kmiles.
Time to clean out valve blocks and replace O-Rings.
I have read most of the threads looking for info about the type of O-Ring materials required.
Can somebody give the definitive " here is what to buy that is required to work with Pentosin CHF11s and meets Mercedes requirements...won't corrode/break/crumble/disappear..."
I see Nutrile, buns, viton, Teflon .... Which ones do I buy?
Time to clean out valve blocks and replace O-Rings.
I have read most of the threads looking for info about the type of O-Ring materials required.
Can somebody give the definitive " here is what to buy that is required to work with Pentosin CHF11s and meets Mercedes requirements...won't corrode/break/crumble/disappear..."
I see Nutrile, buns, viton, Teflon .... Which ones do I buy?
09-12-2014, 12:22 PM
#31
MBWorld Fanatic!
Apart from the much stiffer bodyshell and Magic Body Control function, I think the W222 is much the same under the skin as the W221.
Nick
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 09-14-2014 at 06:32 AM.
09-14-2014, 06:39 AM
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
They introduced it last year with the new W222 S-class.
Apologies, I was answering the wrong question.
2006: ABC was re-designed going from the W220 to the W221. Lots of improvements.
2010: ABC was revised again to include crosswind stablisation and variable roll moment distribution.
2013 added Magic Body Control.
Nick
Apologies, I was answering the wrong question.
2006: ABC was re-designed going from the W220 to the W221. Lots of improvements.
2010: ABC was revised again to include crosswind stablisation and variable roll moment distribution.
2013 added Magic Body Control.
Nick
09-14-2014, 06:46 AM
#34
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
2013 S63, 2018 S63 with Carbon Ceramic brakes
They introduced it last year with the new W222 S-class.
Apologies, I was answering the wrong question.
2006: ABC was re-designed going from the W220 to the W221. Lots of improvements.
2010: ABC was revised again to include crosswind stablisation and variable roll moment distribution.
2013 added Magic Body Control.
Nick
Apologies, I was answering the wrong question.
2006: ABC was re-designed going from the W220 to the W221. Lots of improvements.
2010: ABC was revised again to include crosswind stablisation and variable roll moment distribution.
2013 added Magic Body Control.
Nick
Thanks for the info.
In 2006, did the improvements increase the reliability too? What was the improvements in 2006?
09-17-2014, 01:56 PM
#35
Senior Member
ABC UPDATE FROM PRIOR POST....
I cleaned out rear and front valve blocks. The O-rings were still in good shape so I left them alone. I had purchased some Viton rings but wasn't 100% satisfied about the dimensions being mismatched with what was on the valves.
One of the orifices on the rear valve had a thin sliver of aluminum shaving stuck inside. it seems to have been created during the cutting of the thread in that hole or from a slightly skewed screwing-in of the hose fitting.
I checked all the accumulator vessels. Their diaphragms were all intact. I replaced the front one because I figured it would be harder to get to in the future if the original ever were to pop.
The fluid was very dark; nearly black. The filter was dark too. I ran the flush method (pour new fluid into the reservoir while the car was running/pumping old fluid into a big jug thru a bypass hose hooked to the fluid return line normally used to return fluid through the filter cap, and hitting the up and down button a dozen times), to replace what was in the pump and works at the front.
Fresh fluid and filter change has served me well so far. 2k miles and no more ABC warnings on the dash. Fingers crossed.
I cleaned out rear and front valve blocks. The O-rings were still in good shape so I left them alone. I had purchased some Viton rings but wasn't 100% satisfied about the dimensions being mismatched with what was on the valves.
One of the orifices on the rear valve had a thin sliver of aluminum shaving stuck inside. it seems to have been created during the cutting of the thread in that hole or from a slightly skewed screwing-in of the hose fitting.
I checked all the accumulator vessels. Their diaphragms were all intact. I replaced the front one because I figured it would be harder to get to in the future if the original ever were to pop.
The fluid was very dark; nearly black. The filter was dark too. I ran the flush method (pour new fluid into the reservoir while the car was running/pumping old fluid into a big jug thru a bypass hose hooked to the fluid return line normally used to return fluid through the filter cap, and hitting the up and down button a dozen times), to replace what was in the pump and works at the front.
Fresh fluid and filter change has served me well so far. 2k miles and no more ABC warnings on the dash. Fingers crossed.
09-19-2014, 04:43 PM
#36
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Midway, GA
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
2011 S63 AMG Designo Performance P3
I have a 2011 S63 and I just had to replace ABC Pulsation Dampner two weeks ago with 24K on the odometer. Car is always dealer serviced and inspected. I had fluid checked at 20K for level and condition. Dealer told me both were fine so they would not recommend performing the job because they would be taking my money. 4K miles later I get this humming/pumping sound at idle and while driving and I knew immediately what it was based on previous research. Had it replaced under warranty and all is well again. Based on this experience, I don't feel 2011-2012 S63 ABC is less problematic. I think routine maintenance on the system and changing fluid and filter every 20K will go a long ways in preventing costly repairs.
09-28-2014, 11:31 PM
#37
Domination
Larry1979 - You make the point that really says it all. Kinda like telling a young man to brush his teeth, flush your fluids folks..! Change the filter too..!
I'm a 2003 S55 owner and if it breaks, I cant wait to look it up and fix it. Not just replace whats broken, but actually fix it. That is my passion... fixing. Fixing was a pain in the A$$ before the internet. Because of MBWorld I can order a little rubber O-Ring, slide it over a solenoid piston that keeps the fluid up in the hydraulic strut. Sure it sucks getting it out, and ya I have to drive my POS ford truck to work. Might even take me 2 weekends because I'm fat, old and slow.
But when I look over at him after he's all bathed and filled with all he needs standing at attention. I start him up and slowly roll him out of the garage. Without saying a word, he screams FU world I'm 11 years old and dominate most all sedans.. bring it
I'm a 2003 S55 owner and if it breaks, I cant wait to look it up and fix it. Not just replace whats broken, but actually fix it. That is my passion... fixing. Fixing was a pain in the A$$ before the internet. Because of MBWorld I can order a little rubber O-Ring, slide it over a solenoid piston that keeps the fluid up in the hydraulic strut. Sure it sucks getting it out, and ya I have to drive my POS ford truck to work. Might even take me 2 weekends because I'm fat, old and slow.
But when I look over at him after he's all bathed and filled with all he needs standing at attention. I start him up and slowly roll him out of the garage. Without saying a word, he screams FU world I'm 11 years old and dominate most all sedans.. bring it
12-27-2014, 02:39 PM
#38
Member
I just came across this post and it is fantastic.
I recently purchased a 2003 S600 and it has been a complete doll. First owner was a bank CEO (corporate lease) for 5 years, and then a personal after that. So I am the third owner and I like to think she likes me best. There was a strange humming noise that sounded like a 1998 Honda Civic's dying power steering pump but that was due to the left front strut's hydraulic line resting on the frame of the car. Fixed now.
I have had NO problems with the ABC at all (except for the noise listed above) the pump has never been replaced (cross my fingers now) and all tests come back with the same stats as when it was new. When I bought the car I replaced all 4 pressure/nitrogen cells, MB fluid & filters for the suspension and the suspension, and I pressure wash everything I can without removing any covers whenever I am at a self-serve car wash. (struts, upper arms, pop open the hood and wash the reservoirs and front of the ABC pump.) When I am bored I just press up & down & up & down on the dashboard. I love this car, and it gets surprisingly good gas mileage too (when I drive nice)
I have a wholesale account with Mercedes-Benz of Anaheim (which anyone can get as long as they have a resale license for their business) and I keep a nice fat stockpile of ABC & power steering filters at my disposal as well as MB hydraulic fluid. My cost is about $8 per filter and $20 for the fluid. Definitely better than the retail prices of $22 for filters and $46 for fluid. I am a tad insane, and about every 4 months I replace all the fluid I can get out from the reservoirs (about 2 qts between the two of them) and replace the filters. I see it as $~50 special insurance.
As many members have said before, take care of her and she will take care of you. Mine really does take care of me and likes all the attention I give her.
I recently purchased a 2003 S600 and it has been a complete doll. First owner was a bank CEO (corporate lease) for 5 years, and then a personal after that. So I am the third owner and I like to think she likes me best. There was a strange humming noise that sounded like a 1998 Honda Civic's dying power steering pump but that was due to the left front strut's hydraulic line resting on the frame of the car. Fixed now.
I have had NO problems with the ABC at all (except for the noise listed above) the pump has never been replaced (cross my fingers now) and all tests come back with the same stats as when it was new. When I bought the car I replaced all 4 pressure/nitrogen cells, MB fluid & filters for the suspension and the suspension, and I pressure wash everything I can without removing any covers whenever I am at a self-serve car wash. (struts, upper arms, pop open the hood and wash the reservoirs and front of the ABC pump.) When I am bored I just press up & down & up & down on the dashboard. I love this car, and it gets surprisingly good gas mileage too (when I drive nice)
I have a wholesale account with Mercedes-Benz of Anaheim (which anyone can get as long as they have a resale license for their business) and I keep a nice fat stockpile of ABC & power steering filters at my disposal as well as MB hydraulic fluid. My cost is about $8 per filter and $20 for the fluid. Definitely better than the retail prices of $22 for filters and $46 for fluid. I am a tad insane, and about every 4 months I replace all the fluid I can get out from the reservoirs (about 2 qts between the two of them) and replace the filters. I see it as $~50 special insurance.
As many members have said before, take care of her and she will take care of you. Mine really does take care of me and likes all the attention I give her.
12-27-2014, 10:43 PM
#41
Member
Well the power steering filter is that much. The ABC one is a tad more. But yea
06-15-2015, 02:36 PM
#44
Senior Member
Wow very informative thanks everyone! I had my s65 for about 6 months now, and its at 64k miles and I was wanting to get the ABC flush and filter done. I have no idea if it has been done before. I can either have MB do it or my indy- so from what I'm getting I should also have all the hoses and valve block inspected? anything else? I never had any issues or leaks or weird noises.
Plan on keeping this car for a long time and will probably stop daily driving it in a year or two. Just spend a ton of cash on a full tranny rebuild, and would like to do as much preventative maintenance as necessary to avoid big issues.
Plan on keeping this car for a long time and will probably stop daily driving it in a year or two. Just spend a ton of cash on a full tranny rebuild, and would like to do as much preventative maintenance as necessary to avoid big issues.
06-15-2015, 02:53 PM
#45
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,064
Received 271 Likes
on
220 Posts
'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
Wow very informative thanks everyone! I had my s65 for about 6 months now, and its at 64k miles and I was wanting to get the ABC flush and filter done. I have no idea if it has been done before. I can either have MB do it or my indy- so from what I'm getting I should also have all the hoses and valve block inspected? anything else? I never had any issues or leaks or weird noises.
Plan on keeping this car for a long time and will probably stop daily driving it in a year or two. Just spend a ton of cash on a full tranny rebuild, and would like to do as much preventative maintenance as necessary to avoid big issues.
Plan on keeping this car for a long time and will probably stop daily driving it in a year or two. Just spend a ton of cash on a full tranny rebuild, and would like to do as much preventative maintenance as necessary to avoid big issues.
The valve block will let you know -- no need to go chasing trouble. MB has a TSB on it that your mechanic should be able to pull for you. LI32.50-P-046012. Also, this is a handy guide... http://mercedes-abc-drive-carefully.blogspot.com/
Cheers,
maw
