OK, so i looked online for couple of weeks now and could not find anyone who tackled these engine mounts on 2012 S63 with m157, now i have to tell you that i have doubted myself after reading on WIS that they do ask for AC compressor to be removed (that's what i did not want to do) so here are some steps that will Help you and YES you can do it yourself.

These are the part numbers and what i payed for them online

Part Number 221-240-80-17-64
Engine Mount $157.08

Part Number 221-240-81-17-64
Engine Mount $157.08

Subtotal: $314.16 Estimated Standard Shipping: $27.25 Discount: -$1.36 Total: $340.05

DISCONNECT BATTERY ALWAYS when working on cars

1. Remove protective Covers front and back
2. Disconnect all four NOX exhaust sensor
3. Disconnect the electric connector to your steering rack pinion solenoid Valve (if you dont disconnect this one you will most likely break the connector and have to replace the solenoid Valve) ask me how i know.
4. Remove Exhaust on both sides from the headers (personal experience: this was very easy.. you will need some long extensions with swivels and a 13mm socket and use some liquidwrench prior to get them lose) make sure to unplug the sensors before you drop the exhaust.
5. Remove three Bolts under the transmission Mount (13mm) do not remove the mount completely
6. Loosen both Bolts for the engine Mounts (Bottom only)
7. loosen and remove a 13mm bolt on the steering column (push up on the steering column to allow you to separate the steering column and just lay it out of the way) you just lay it on the side so you have better access.
8. Use Thick and wide as the oil pan a piece of wood to place under your oil pan and start raising the engine (at this point you only raise it for about 1 inch)
9. Remove two aluminium shield that sit on top of the engine mounts on both sides they are held by two bolts (since you raised the engine by a bit this will help you to gain a better access to one Bolt on the side of these plates)
10. Now since you removed the heat shields you will have a better access to loosen and remove the Side Bolts for the engine mounts and you need a M18 star socket to get these out, (again put some liquiwrench before you start since they are pretty tight, i had to use a breaker bar to get them lose) i was able to find the M18 socket in a set of tools at Harbour Freight $12 bucks for the set,
11. Start lifting the car more until you feel that you have enough space to get those *******s out. (dont go crazy on the lift, you can man handle and push the engine to one side to gain more room for each side but dont lift the engine more than necessary) Remember that most likely your Right side engine mount is collapsed and you may need more room to put the new one in.
i would say that if i had these steps when i started i would be done in less then 2 hours. Dealer quote was around $2.5 k.


12. I Have to mention this ( when you are ready to put the exhaust back on, there will be a huge gap from the rear side of the exhaust and the front.. you need to get a ratchet strap and just pull it together like that.

You can do this and GOOD LUCK , i wish i took pictures or Video but i Hope someone can benefit from this write-up

 

I've been thinking that my mounts are worn. 2012 S63 with the Performance Package, 80k miles. How many miles on yours?

Bill

 

Mine has 78k, and my driver side mount when removed was in two pieces.. and the passenger side is compressed about one inch from the original, so yes these AMG engines are definitely notorious to brake them if used properly

 

Thanks for this. Did you use a lift, or were you able to do it on stands?

 

i just used regular ramps and raised ABC to high, obviously having access to lift would be lot easier but not a necessary accessory to have this done.

 

I just did this today. Took about 5 hours. Instructions were really helpful, thanks again.

One thing I did differently was removed the drivers side mount (LHD) from the front by dropping the steering rack. It saved me from having to mess with the steering linkage and such. It’s four E14 bolts then two 18mm nut and bolts. Once you break the 18mm free, you’ll need a deep socket 18mm to stabilize the nut on top of the rack, access it from the exhaust side/rear. The rack then drops down 4 inches or so and you can easily pull the mount out from the front.

Front drivers side mount with the rack lowered



Drivers side mount with 80k miles




Passenger side mount



Other pictures


Exhaust removed

Passenger side mount heat shield (you need to remove rubber plug to access top E18 bolt.

Passenger side mount

Engine jacked up for drivers side mount removal

 

Good job, the difference with new Mounts is amazing.

 

I just tackled this job, I did not have to remove the exhaust, but when I disconnected my steering shaft it spun and I destroyed my clock spring, my word of advise is to bungee cord your steering wheel so it doesn't turn,
Also you need a star socket set for this, my motor mounts were external torx, as the shroud bolts.
The right one was a piece o cake, the left one was a struggle, be prepared for the oil to come out when you tilt the mounts to come out, it stinks bad, like 20 year old fish oil bad.

 

What were the symptoms of these bad motor mounts?