I recently purchased a pristine 2007 S65 AMG with 50,000 miles. However within the first 3 months I started feeling the driver's side engine mount had given up the ghost and was now relying on the strap to keep the engine from leaping up. I downloaded the Mercedes AR22.10-P-1260SZ engine mount replacement procedure however I found that at least for me it did not work. So I wrote up my process in the hopes it will help others.
Sorry for resurrecting an old post but the write up is so good I must say thanks. This gives me great confidence in DIY-ing the engine mounts on my w221 s600. Thank you.
I did the engine mounts of 2009 s600 last week using this guide and it was a success! I want to add a couple of details that weren't mentioned in OP's guide that might be helpful for others.
First, WIS says you need to disconnect a whole bunch of components before you can raise the engine. I got impatient and raised the engine without disconnecting anything. I raised the engine with a jack and some 2 by 4, did it little by little while feeling around hoses to make sure they aren't stretched or pinched. It turns out the engine can actually be raised high enough to change the mounts without disconnecting anything. The top coolant hose was a bit stretched but nothing crazy, the driver side bottom ABC hard lines were also under a bit of tension but the hard lines all have some portion of rubber soft lines, so no big deal. However, you definitely need to use your judgement here as the condition of each car is different, don't blame me when you ABC high pressure line bursts and costs you $2k lol
Second, for the driver side mount, you don't have to do anything to the steering coupling. You don't even need to remove the heat shield. As mentioned in OP's guide, you need to rotate the mount assembly, use impact gun to dissemble it in place, and remove the bracket and the actual mount separately, from the front (not from the rear, so no need to touch the steering coupling, you'll know what I'm talking about when you are under the car staring at the driver side mount).
That's it, all else went as planned exactly like OP's guide. Passenger side is super easy. The most difficult part is definitely raising the engine just enough to change the mount, and not too much where you damage some hoses or lines.
Oh lastly I used Febi Bilstein mounts (29511) and they fit perfectly, since the OE corteco ones are out of stock everywhere
First, WIS says you need to disconnect a whole bunch of components before you can raise the engine. I got impatient and raised the engine without disconnecting anything. I raised the engine with a jack and some 2 by 4, did it little by little while feeling around hoses to make sure they aren't stretched or pinched. It turns out the engine can actually be raised high enough to change the mounts without disconnecting anything. The top coolant hose was a bit stretched but nothing crazy, the driver side bottom ABC hard lines were also under a bit of tension but the hard lines all have some portion of rubber soft lines, so no big deal. However, you definitely need to use your judgement here as the condition of each car is different, don't blame me when you ABC high pressure line bursts and costs you $2k lol
Second, for the driver side mount, you don't have to do anything to the steering coupling. You don't even need to remove the heat shield. As mentioned in OP's guide, you need to rotate the mount assembly, use impact gun to dissemble it in place, and remove the bracket and the actual mount separately, from the front (not from the rear, so no need to touch the steering coupling, you'll know what I'm talking about when you are under the car staring at the driver side mount).
That's it, all else went as planned exactly like OP's guide. Passenger side is super easy. The most difficult part is definitely raising the engine just enough to change the mount, and not too much where you damage some hoses or lines.
Oh lastly I used Febi Bilstein mounts (29511) and they fit perfectly, since the OE corteco ones are out of stock everywhere
Newbie
I need to do this on my '08 S65. How long did this take you start to finish? And to be clear, you really didn't need to disconnect ANYTHING in the engine bay or drivetrain, at all?
Junior Member
Quote:
I don’t have direct experience with this specific car/job but I was a Merc tech for a while. Originally Posted by draino
I need to do this on my '08 S65. How long did this take you start to finish? And to be clear, you really didn't need to disconnect ANYTHING in the engine bay or drivetrain, at all?
This will NOT be a quick weekend project unless you are quite handy and have access to a lift. Even if there are a dozen shortcuts, this is still a yuuge job.
You’re not going to like hearing this but at this age/mileage your car will definitely need additional parts “while you’re in there”. So, yes you may be able to do this without disassembling the front half of the vehicle you’ll do yourself some favors in the long run by making this a little bigger job initially. A few I can think of off hand would be; coolant flush, p/s fluid partial flush, ABC fluid partial flush(you should definitely do the full flush if it hasn’t been done), O2 sensors, voltage regulator(not exactly sure if this is replaceable on the cooled alternator though), & a more thorough inspection of the undercarriage of the vehicle.
And the way the mobile replying works I can’t look back to check the other suggestions. But, if it’s not suggested I definitely recommend removing the exhaust system. This opens up the drivers side quite a bit so you don’t permanently disfigure your hands contorting them around everything. You’ll need a jack and another person’s help will make it a little easier.
Remember, a job worth doing is a job worth overdoing
Newbie
@Starguy1 This is incredible feedback, thank you! I've handled all the fluids, but I need to do the mounts, and, funny enough, the voltage regulator. I started getting misfire faults on both banks that I traced down to the regulator, which thankfully is replaceable and right at the top of the engine. Even easier than doing the coils. Appreciate the feedback, especially from an MB tech!
Junior Member
I was talking about the voltage regulator on the back of the alternator, not the ignition box on top of the engine
If you’ve traced a misfire to that I assume you’re familiar with Clark and his ignition system website? If not, take an afternoon to digest this fully. The m275 is an amazing engine but it also needs some pretty amazing upkeep
v12icpack.com
If you’ve traced a misfire to that I assume you’re familiar with Clark and his ignition system website? If not, take an afternoon to digest this fully. The m275 is an amazing engine but it also needs some pretty amazing upkeep
v12icpack.com
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I had a 221 S-65 for several years. Got to do engine mounts annually.
Easy? With practice, a hoist, a pair of screwjacks and the right attitude... Not exactly; But doable in 2.5-3 hours.
I support the engine with a screwjack, remove subframe-car fasteners and let it hang from suspension. Mark and unbolt steering shaft. Unbolt steering rack and let it hang. Raise the engine and swap mounts. Driver’s side comes out to the rear.
I had a 221 S-65 for several years. Got to do engine mounts annually.
Easy? With practice, a hoist, a pair of screwjacks and the right attitude... Not exactly; But doable in 2.5-3 hours.
I support the engine with a screwjack, remove subframe-car fasteners and let it hang from suspension. Mark and unbolt steering shaft. Unbolt steering rack and let it hang. Raise the engine and swap mounts. Driver’s side comes out to the rear.
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