Joe P's 04' S55 AMG Build Thread




maw
My suggestion.... fresh fluid everywhere. Lots of bleeders around the car. With the car on tip toes (engine off) crack every bleeder loose one at a time and catch the fluid in your bleeder bottle. Be sure fresh fluid is everywhere. Helps.
I would solve the issue(s) making it drop before longer term storage. Then park it on tip toes. Weight on the wheels.
Best wishes.
Last edited by JohnLane; Oct 14, 2023 at 09:30 AM.




maw
Last edited by maw1124; Oct 9, 2023 at 06:49 PM.




My suggestion.... fresh fluid everywhere. Lots of bleeders around the car. With the car on tip toes (engine off) crack every bleeder loose one at a time and catch the fluid in your bleeder bottle. Be sure fresh fluid is everywhere. Helps.
I would solve the issue(s) making it drop before longer term storage. Then park it on tip toes. Weight on the wheels.
Best wishes.
Also very jealous of the both of you for owning a 500E. Another dream car of mine. Let me know when you get tired of it and want to add another S55 to the stable. I would consider doing a straight trade

Theres a guy on Youtube/Instagram that posted a video a little while back. His name is "Young Timers Garage" on Youtube and he does a lot of Mercedes/AMG stuff. He found a 500E at a local car lot that looked to be sitting for a bit. I believe it may be up for auction here shortly, or may have already hit the block. I reached out a few weeks ago and he said he was looking for around $45k. Beautiful car in a beautiful spec. I'm sure he made/will make a couple bucks on that flip.
I found a gentleman in a W124 560SEC on I-95 on the way home. I was shocked at how fast and how well that car kept up with me. We had a decent bit of open road and he was damn near on my a$$.
I've owned both a W123 and a W124. 1984 300CD Turbo and an 1988 560SEL. The 123 was a slug but loved hitting the highway. The 560SEL surprised me with the torque. No issues grabbing second and kicking the back end out a bit.
I sold the W123 to a younger guy from NY. Had some paint work done to it when i owned it and a bit of maintenance but unfortunately bought it with a friend to flip. Wish i would have gave him his end back and kept it. It was a beautiful car.
Gotta love this Brand -
Joe
My 500E had woefully inadequate brakes as original. The ‘96 S-600 same thing.
As much fun as the older cars were the real AMG cars with real brakes, suspension tuning, interiors, sound... POWER.... are sooo much better.
What an amazing time to be alive.




maw
Last edited by maw1124; Oct 8, 2023 at 04:21 PM.




No fault but my own as I should have taken the advice of others here and replaced the accumulators sooner. (or just not have driven the car until i did so)
I had to pick my folks up from PHL International yesterday, and on the return back home I heard a pop from the rear driver side with an immediate red ABC message on the dash to drive carefully as I heard the ABC fluid spew out.

Luckily the car just barely made it home before causing any damage. My hurdle now is to getting the car back to my hanger so i can work on it, without causing further damage. The last thing i want to do is run that car without ABC fluid and risk destroying the tandem pump. (any advise is welcomed and appreciated)
I also just spoke to my Mechanic who installed the lower control arms and asked for a quote for both the Accumulators as well as the lines to be replaced. He's just about one of the only people i trust to work on this car. I'm during having a proper lift would make this job 100x easier.
It'll get fixed and it will be nice knowing that the system is almost new in its entirety. For what its worth, as i'm not 100% sure its a line just yet, it did come from the driver side rear of the vehicle where i noticed that was the corner that would sag very quickly upon parking, followed up by the driver side front.
I also noticed while test fitting a set of wheels i purchased for the car a few weeks ago, that the driver side rear strut had been replaced at some point, as it has "04 CL55" written on it in white sharpie. Possible strut failure? possible strut line failure? I'll have to investigate further and see. I'm also debating on wether i should buy a new strut specifically for the S55 to replace it. I read a lot in the pamphlet that "Maw" sent me about the cause and effect of the ABC system and how rare it is to have a strut fail. However having said that, i'm sure it happens from time to time, and i'm not sure if the CL and S class have different load capacity or not. (i can't imagine they do?)
Figured i would post this here both for advice as well as to document whats going on with the car. Hopefully it help's someone else out in the future as well. I will say that there were warning signs this was going to happen. Mainly the short and quick "Ding" while going over my neighborhood speed bumps right after pulling out of the community. In my mind, I knew the accumulators would need replacing, but i figured i still had enough time to change them. Wrong! If you start getting those quick "Dings" its time to replace them immediately. Let that be noted.
One more thing i would like to note as i am realizing this as I'm writing, and i recently watched a video that seemed to have explained why, but i would notice on occasion that the ABC reservoir would have fluid that seemingly was forced out. We'll thats exactly what was happening and apparently its a direct cause of having a failing accumulator(s). Just want to note that as well.
Side note, I took advantage of some black Friday deals and ordered myself a VRP split cooling kit, so I'm looking forward to receiving that. However, priorities, i know.

- Joe
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Good luck!




CICBarKeep, that random misfire is likely a leak somewhere... I'd smoke test the car next, probably some vacuum hose on its way out. I can't think of anything else... a roaming lean code is either too much air somewhere or not enough fuel somewhere, since you've already handled spark. If the PO didn't do a fuel pump, I might look at fuel pump and filter after smoke test. All these fuel pumps are overdue by now. If no leaks and fuel pump / filter are fresh, then it might be time for coils and wires.
maw
Last edited by maw1124; Dec 1, 2023 at 01:59 PM.


The entire purpose of having the accumulators is to absorb the pressure spikes of suspension compression. When a strut compresses, that fluid has to go somewhere. By design, it goes into the accumulator, i.e. "accumulates" there, by compressing the nitrogen behind the diaphragm. As far as I know, the only cause of a popped hydraulic line is a failed accumulator, because the pressure spike is not properly absorbed when the accumulator has no compressible gas behind the diaphragm.
Do NOT drive the car, or even start it up, if it's low on fluid! You must have it towed, or you'll be looking for a new ABC pump. Their dry running lifetime is literally seconds.
I will now fail to resist the temptation to point out how many times in this thread I have said to replace the accumulators...
If any component in the system can be ranked highest in importance for proper functionality, it is the accumulators.EDIT: Well, it was only once in this thread, but I suggested it in the other thread, too, where he posted about getting the car in the first place.

Last edited by wfooshee; Dec 1, 2023 at 06:37 PM.




The entire purpose of having the accumulators is to absorb the pressure spikes of suspension compression. When a strut compresses, that fluid has to go somewhere. By design, it goes into the accumulator, i.e. "accumulates" there, by compressing the nitrogen behind the diaphragm. As far as I know, the only cause of a popped hydraulic line is a failed accumulator, because the pressure spike is not properly absorbed when the accumulator has no compressible gas behind the diaphragm.
Do NOT drive the car, or even start it up, if it's low on fluid! You must have it towed, or you'll be looking for a new ABC pump. Their dry running lifetime is literally seconds.
I will now fail to resist the temptation to point out how many times in this thread I have said to replace the accumulators...
If any component in the system can be ranked highest in importance for proper functionality, it is the accumulators.If you think about it, too little fluid in the system should reduce the pressure not increase it. So when people add fluid when they should be changing accumulators is what earns you fluid spewing forth from reservoir (or a popped line). If you've ever checked your fluid level you know this. That plunger at the top doesn't come off easily. If fluid is getting past that plunger, then the pressure in the system is literally higher than the pressure relief valves can handle. To whooshee's point, the ONLY thing in this system that CAN cause that kind of pressure is failed accumulators. There are no other culprits capable of causing that problem (or popping a line).
maw
Last edited by maw1124; Dec 1, 2023 at 05:18 PM.




it‘s the second of the two main lines running from the valve block to the front of the vehicle. It’s the line that goes into the bottom of the valve block.
Top line with the fluid and my finger.
it appears to be a straightforward job however I’ve never done one before, any tips or tricks are always welcomed and appreciated. Hope to get this line ordered today and have it up a running so I can get it back to storage. Then the very next job will be tackling the accumulators.
- Joe




I am pretty sure its this line -
Mercedes Suspension Self-Leveling Unit Line - Genuine Mercedes 2203200254
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ine-2203200254
It has a small valve block on the end of the line towards the front of the vehicle.
I'll put an order in for it and hopefully i can get it installed next weekend. It may be the last weekend and last chance i have before the weather really takes a downturn.




I am pretty sure its this line -
Mercedes Suspension Self-Leveling Unit Line - Genuine Mercedes 2203200254
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ine-2203200254
It has a small valve block on the end of the line towards the front of the vehicle.
I'll put an order in for it and hopefully i can get it installed next weekend. It may be the last weekend and last chance i have before the weather really takes a downturn.
maw




Very pleased. Very happy for now. It's a Christmas miracle lol.
I'm also getting some seepage from the valve cover gaskets leaking onto the manifolds so that will get address here shortly as well. I'll plan on refreshing the whole top end along with the ignition system as well, plugs, wires, coils etc. Just some preventive maintenance.
Thanks for the help thus far gents, and Merry Christmas to all.
- Joe
Ridiculous $$$ for a line? Take the damaged line to someone who does hydraulic hose repairs. Anyone who deals with tractors will either do it in house or know a guy. You’ll spend a C-Note or less for any hydraulic hose repair.
OP..... Replace the accumulators yet? Don’t start the car again before doing so.
Valve cover gaskets are easy. Good opportunity to give it fresh coils and 16 spark plugs + all new spark plug wires. Don’t over torque spark plugs. Use a toothbrush style wire brushie to clean up all sealing surfaces with flammable brake clean until all surfaces shine. Know someone with a parts washer? Throw valve covers in the washing machine for half an hour and they will look like new. Work smarter not harder.
Last edited by JohnLane; Dec 24, 2023 at 01:38 PM.




Ridiculous $$$ for a line? Take the damaged line to someone who does hydraulic hose repairs. Anyone who deals with tractors will either do it in house or know a guy. You’ll spend a C-Note or less for any hydraulic hose repair.
OP..... Replace the accumulators yet? Don’t start the car again before doing so.
Valve cover gaskets are easy. Good opportunity to give it fresh coils and 16 spark plugs + all new spark plug wires. Don’t over torque spark plugs. Use a toothbrush style wire brushie to clean up all sealing surfaces with flammable brake clean until all surfaces shine. Know someone with a parts washer? Throw valve covers in the washing machine for half an hour and they will look like new. Work smarter not harder.
Factory MB Hydraulic line was $150 shipped. I would classify that as inexpensive. I have a great hydraulic shop near by, they rebuilt two hydraulic arms for my Four Winns last season. I rather put a factory line back in then have them Fab something up personally.
All worked out.
Accumulators are next.
FYI, I spoke to the gentleman who shipped my line out from MB of Farmington out in Utah. He gave me the scoop, MBDealerparts.com to purchase all of your factory MB parts. Cheaper then FCPeurp as well.
- Joe




Cheers,
maw




