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I cant tell you how happy I am that you chimed in on my thread brother. You likely SAVED THE DAY! I too have been hearing the "ding" over sharp bumps. Figured it was just the suspension feeling unsettled.
Looks like my CL is now parked until I can free up my lift and get those accumulators swapped out. I was going to wait and do the valve block rebuild and swap out all 4 ABC assemblies at the same time to save the hassle and cost of flushing the ABC fluid multiple times but from what I read, if fresh ABC fluid has cleaning agents in there. The more flushes, the happier my system will be.
Just need to get the lift free now.
Valve Cover Gaskets are easy by the way. Just be mindful of a certain vacuum line in the back of the blower that can be yanked out causing a really high idle if you dont catch it. Found that out the hard way when I did it on my G55 lol
Looking forward to your progress! We'll have to grab a cheesesteak this summer for sure!
We'll have to meet up sometime when the weather breaks.
I'll look into that Pittsburg Grad Prix you were talking about in your thread, may be cool to check that out and I always enjoy a little road trip.
Maybe I can even get CICBarkeep to come out as well!
- Joe
I'm as good as there but I'll have to pick a weekend. Mrs. Barkeep isn't really into racing so the Historics Weekend might be a tough sell. On the other hand, she appreciates beautiful cars, is pretty proud of our S55, and digs road trips so I'm guessing the Vintage weekend at Schenley Park in August is my best bet. Keep me posted!
Dave
Well I was FINALLY able to make some solid progress on the S55 this week. I put quite a large order in with both MBdealerparts and FCP Euro and got right to work. Here is everything that was done, and whats still left to do:
- All (4) ABC Accumulators, Pulsation Dampener and Air Cell/reservoir have been replaced with New, Factory MB Parts. - MBDealerparts
(2) 2203270115 (1) 2203270215 (1) 2203200415
- MB Sealant - MBDealerpars - They sent me a case of these instead of a tube! If anyone plans on doing VCG's, Message me your Address and I'll send you a tube for free.
3989982010
I started with the Accumulators as the Pulsation Dampener and the smaller "air cell" came in first. I will say its honestly not that difficult of a job. On a scale of 1 - 5 where 1 is putting air in your tires and 5 is pulling your engine, its about a 2. I spent more time pulling off undercarriage trays, wheel liners and plastics then anything! The actual removal of the Accumulators themselves was a piece of cake. The rear Larger accumulator under the passenger side exhaust is a little tricky, but a little patience is very do-able. That one took me a good 20-30 minutes to have it removed and reinstalled just because you're upside down and fighting the hanging exhaust in your face. However its not TERRIBLE. Just pack your patience.
I won't go too far in depth as i did try my hand at making a Youtube video which i'll link below. I am by no means a youtuber so go easy gents
Next up was valve cover gaskets and the ignition system refresh. The plugs on the pass. side for whatever reason were really stuck in there, i guess due to age and bit of corrosion. I was concerned i was going to snap one off, but they all eventually came out without any issues. All the new NGK's went in great, along with the new coil packs and wires. The wires came already dielectric greased up which was nice. I believe the brand of wires i bought through FCP Euro was "Bremi" or "BBT", one of the two. Whichever is available on their site is what i went with.
I took some time to clean the Valve covers by hand but my God was that a time consuming process. Never again. Get yourself a parts cleaner or a bin and let them sit in solvent for a few hours. I bought a parts cleaner specifically for this reason but i never bought the solvent. SMH.
I sprayed them silver with some High temp Silver just to clean them up and they look presentable. Not show car quality but much better then the corroded 20 year old look of factory. I will have them properly powder coated in the future.
Lastly was the Crank positioning sensor which was at first a little difficult to find and remove but very do-able. Not too bad of a job.
I will say to make sure all of your connections regarding the breather hoses are nice and tight. There is a bolt on the driver side top right part of the valve cover that bolts a bracket down that holds a breather tup section. Make sure that metal tube is pushed back into the snout. I had to remove the driver side surge tank to see it (also very easy if you've never done it before) just a couple bolts and a hose clamp, super simple. However i buttoned everything back up and had a crazy loud "Syucking sound coming from the TB, Surge tank, top of the SC area and couldn't find it for the life of me. Took it to my mechanic and sprayed carb cleaner in that area, hit the surge tank on the driver side and sure enough it choked the car and it died. (good way of finding Vac leaks). Pulled the Driver side surge tank off and that metal tube was sticking out causing the vac leak. Button everything back up and it was quite as a church mouse and smooth as butter! Incredible how much better throttle response with an ignition tune up. Night and Day.
I still need to do an oil change, and tinker around with a few more things to get it dialed in just right, and running perfectly before i start messing around with HP parts.
But for now she's running and driving better then ever and I'm one happy camper
Almost every clip broke due to age and constant heat/cold smh. They all fit very snug and shouldn't be an issue but really drives me nuts.
In desperate need of a proper engine bay detail now as well.
Ok Gents, Having an issue. Ever since the "Ignition Refresh" With New Plugs, wires and coil packs I'm getting a "Check Engine" Light after the kick down switch. Kills power, starts braking up really bad and running like crap, and throws about 6 codes. "Random misfire on cylinder 1, 3, 6" all over the place.
I threw the scanner on it last week, checked all of the wires on all of the coil packs and plugs to make sure they all had a good secure connection. Cleared/Erased all of the codes and the Check Engine light went away. drove it around for a few days withe Zero Issues, but didn't push it past the kick down switch.
Another wash and I took it out for a quick spirited drive this evening. Plenty of power and ran like a top. As soon as I floored it past the kick down, immediate pull of power, flashing check engine light to a solid check engine light, and misfiring like crazy.
Any Ideas before i replace everything with what i just took off, as far as the coil packs/wires go? The coil packs I installed Admittedly so were cheap, and not a factory or FCP recommended replacement. But i feel i would get the same issue regardless of throttle input if they weren't any good?
Any advice or ideas is greatly appreciated. Up until i replaced everything i had no issues putting my foot to the floor.
'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
Joe, as a closet audiophile and longtime owner of this car, I'll say the wires are clearly suspect. Because wires and electricity.
But I also suspect she's leaning out under load, especially if you have a tune and more boost. Here's how you check (and this should be S. O. P. for anyone running boost) -- run one step closer plugs, so she doesn't lean out.
If you have the same issue with colder plugs, wires are clearly suspect. Because wires and electricity. But I'm hopeful that one step colder plugs will do the trick.
These were recommended to me by a trusted source. I boosted mine after my last set of plugs (within the last 5 years or 50k miles), so these are going in next (which is basically now). I sometimes lean out under the heaviest of loads (3rd gear, kickdown but never past, 110mph-ish). I never go past kickdown on this car anymore because (1) I know what she does, (2) it's not necessary, and (3) I like to control shifts -- I downshift before I hit it. Basic driving style differences but same symptoms and hopefully the same solutions. We don't want to get into fuel supply.
I do not have any tune as of yet. The only mod's i've done are Drop-in K&N Air filters and a Belt wrap kit.
The plugs i purchased are labeled on a few sites as "Upgrades" or "Colder Plugs" Which are the NGK Iridium's. The plugs i pulled out of the engine happen to be identical NGK IR Plugs, which i found interesting. Are the NGK IR's in-fact factory plugs and not an upgrade? For some reason i was under the impression they were. To your point, when i add a pulley and tune, i wanted to have 1 step colder plugs already in and ready to go. So maybe i need to take your advice and buy the ones you've suggested. Clearly more research on my end is needed.
Heres another more technical question i have. When i replaced the wires, I had everything laid out, and i put one coil pack in at a time, with the different length wires required for each plug. By the time i got to the last few, i was only left with the smaller length wires for the last coil pack or two, which still fit seemingly fine. Is it possible that the Longer/shorter duo of wires are only for certain coil packs, ie the front of the engine, and possibly i'm getting a bad electrical current flow through the wires to cause it to misfire? Seems unlikely but when i installed everything, i began to curse myself as to why I would have only 1 length of wires left for the last few coil packs.
'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
So you ran a BWK on factory pulleys and tune? Why? It's the first I've encountered it, but that "might" give you more boost even without a tune -- the same turn of the crank pulley = more belt movement and more supercharger pulley spin. In that case she's sure to lean out.
Short answer is you need a tune to compensate for what you've done, let alone what you plan to do. But you see how the car is only mildly bothered by it. Only at or near full load would you even sense a problem.
Leave the plugs and the wires, get a proper tune, with or without pulley, then see what you get. Be sure to discuss the BWK with your tuner. They'll know what that means.
I guess in my mind i looked at the Belt wrap kit as more of a maintenance item to optimize factory power then an actual performance upgrade, however that does make sense.
I can count on 1 hand how many times I've pushed it past the kick down, however I just find it odd i drove the car 2500 miles last summer to Florida and back without issue. Something is telling me it has to do with the ignition system refresh.
I'll retrace my steps and take your advice with the tune. I'll make sure to report back as well.
01-10-2024, 08:00 AM
