Definitely a cool find!

 

Quick Update:

I was dealing with a small coolant leak coming from the driver side radiator/Upper Rad hose area. I bought a new upper rad hose, Plastic "T" and new smaller hose that runs back to the coolant tank. Installed and still getting a leak from that side. I ordered a new Radiator from FCP Euro and had some time to install it today. It was quite the job. Lots of stuff to remove and lines in the way, but I got it done. So far no leaks, let it idle for a good 20 minutes, topped it off, and took it for about a 5 mile drive. Everything seems to look good and not a drop of coolant so far. One more thing checked off the to-do list. I will try and do a proper write up with some pictures when i get the chance, as i think it would help people out in the future. Couldn't find much on youtube and the WIS manual i had must have been for an S500 and not an AMG. It had a few steps left out.

I had ordered new lower ball joints after installing everything else in the front suspension. Inner/outter Tie rods, upper control arms & front lower and rear lower control arms. I tried to install the lower ball joints but couldn't get the ball joint tool to sit flush without pulling the entire knuckle off the car. I figured this would be a job best suited for my mechanic. While it's in there i'll have them do a proper alignment and make sure everything is square.

I also had a Driver side headlight that would flicker and go completely out after a time driving at night. I ordered a new Ballast and installed that as well, and it seems to be working. I havent' driven the car at night yet but i'm hoping that fixed that issue.

Lastly regarding the exhaust, unfortunately there's a reason i couldn't find any info on a Renntech Exhaust for a M113K S55. Apparently AMG went to a 2.75" Exhaust when they plopped the blower on top for a little better exhaust flow. Makes sense, and I didn't even take the time to measure. Seeing that i pulled that exhaust off of an 01' NA, it adds up. Renntech exhaust diameter is 2.5". Oh Well...I guess now i'll just have to buy another 01-02 S55 to put the exhaust on

Seems like I'll have a few more items checked off of the To-do List by the end of this week. Car is going to the shop Friday for the front end suspension work and alignment and a look over the engine to see if i'm getting oil seepage from somewhere.

Hopefully after everything is fully sorted we can start throwing some small upgrade go-fast parts i have laying around for it, as well as some tasteful exterior upgrades as well.

- Joe

 

Question regarding normal running temperature:

Where do you guys usually sit when the car is fully warmed up and under normal driving conditions? On a 65 degree day yesterday i'm sitting just above the 80 degree celsius number in the cluster. Obviously it fluctuates slightly up/down depending on driving but i'm curious if its running a little warm for some reason. I cant remember where it would sit before all of the Coolant related work I've done. (upgraded 010 pump and now new rad/hoses)

Just want to make sure its not running warm for some reason.

Thanks

 

That actually seems low. I would think somewhere between 95C and 105C would be a normal operating range. (Fahrenheit, that's 195 to 220.)

That looks higher than the boiling point at atmospheric pressure, but not the pressure the cooling system runs at.

 

Usually, 92 to 95 centigrade. Creeps a little higher when sitting immediately after a "spirited" run.

 

They run a little cooler after the intercooler pump upgrade. On that same day, you’ll see 80*C at highway speeds but when you come off the highway and onto the streets, you’ll see that creep up to around 95*C. All good.

People have reminded me in the past with the 500E, “This is a Mercedes; worry about temps when it gets in the red.”

True story. And these guys have been MB Masters longer than I’ve been driving.

maw

 

I just checked the above on a 65*F day in Michigan, which is not far from what @PHILLYJOE is experiencing. On the highway she was pegged at 80*C once warm, and once on the street she went up to about 92*C. That's with a mild tune (more boost) and an upgraded intercooler pump.

maw

 

Good to know, Thanks guys.

I picked up an "Ultragauge" that i can plug into my OBD port under the steering column to get a more accurate reading on temps, and to keep any eye on other necessities.

I have to figure out a good and clean way to mount it properly and tuck the wire up neatly. It's a quick cheap solution for now, but i can monitor everything from engine temp, intake temp, boost, etc.

Once i get it plugged in i'll report back with a slightly more accurate reading on where she's running. Car is basically still bone stock with the exception of a Renntech Airbox W/K&N Filters, BWK, & 010 pump

- Joe

 

And running very cool as a result.

maw

 

Thermostat open at 82 or 87?

In ambient temps under 80-90 degrees it should stay close to the temperature marked on the thermostat.

Expect it to climb with A/C blasting in ambient temps over 100 degrees.... but never over 200.

Maw 500E has clutch fan with a pusher fan in front of the stack. Pusher fan cycles with high side pressures and will switch to high speed when coolant temp exceeds 190. You should hear the belt driven fan roar when it is hot out with low vehicle speeds.

211, 221 and newer all just use a great big electric fan with variable control that works well until it doesn’t.

 

My fans are all fine @JohnLane, but thanks. The 500E lives in a different climate but the engine temp stays in the same range.

I was pointing to MB engineering, not one model v another.

maw

 

All good info Gents, Thank you.

Had some time to let her idle yesterday for a good 30 minutes on a 72 degree day. I had the ultra gauge plugged in and periodically checked in on the temp. The highest it went was around 202 degree's Fahrenheit with the fan kicking on occasionally. All seems to be normal.

Indy shop couldn't get around to the suspension work today but will address it Monday. No biggie as i'm in no rush, she's back home for now and i'll take it back up Monday morning.

I changed the oil about 2 months ago but haven't driven the car at all. I used the liqui Molly "Molly Gen" for higher milage which is a coolant green color. While poking around under the car doing the radiator install, i noticed the bottom of the pan was pretty wet with what seemed like old oil. I pulled the dip stick and it still has a very vibrant green color. I'm thinking this was from a while ago, however whatever it is thats causing that much oil seepage i need to get addressed. Although I've done Valve cover gaskets which were definitely seeping, this seems to be a bit more. I'm going to clean everything up really well and keep an eye on it. Hopefully can narrow it down and figure out what needs attention next. All i can think of is front/rear main seal. Anything else in particular thats a common failure point that i should look out for?

Took it for a short blast home and it sure is fun feeling the a$$ end kick out under WOT in such a big car. Absolutely effortless and so easy to control. Still such an amazing and under valued car IMO and so much bang for the buck.

I'll report back on the suspension work once complete.

- Joe

 

Valve cover gaskets leak every 5 years like clockwork because that's when it's time to change the plugs. I'd clean the belly pan and forget about it, until the next time for plugs.

maw

 

Sounds good. I'll clean it up and keep an eye on it. Plugs & VCG were just done so hopefully i'm good for a while.

- Joe

 

Starting to understand the fatigue most people feel with these cars. On my way to a dentist appt first thing this morning, on the highway and getting a really bad smell, look behind me and a cloud of smoke. Dash throws a white ABC light go to workshop. Luckily I was right by my exit, pull off, turn into a gas station and cut it off immediately. Steering started to get stiff.

pop the hood and there’s motor oil everywhere. Top of the engine, pouring out the bottom, all over the place. Waiting for a tow truck now to have it towed back to the shop. I pulled the dip stick and it’s about a quart low. Haven’t driven the car much at all. Small trips to the store and around town, but thats about it. This was the first “long drive” after the work was done, maybe 12-15 miles. Frustrating considering it just had an inspection completed last week.

i’ll know more later today when I can get it up in the air. No clue how I could have had both an ABC line, and massive amounts of oil pouring out of the engine at the same time.

 

Bummer! I'm almost certain that's all Pentosin, and the motor oil thing is a red herring. I've never used the dipstick to check oil on this car. Instead I just use the dash computer. Mine was leaking at the rear main seal until recently.

Incidentally. I was driving the other day and smelled Pentosin (because you learn to know what it smells like over the years) and when I got home there was some leakage. It was also all over the driver side strut tower and the pentosin reservoir in the engine bay. So I took it to my guys shop, power washed the engine bay and left it there. I need to check on it this week. Hopefully it's just a hose or some ****.

But the steering never got stiff and I only saw the light once in the next hour / 25 miles between when I smelled the fluid, drove it home, saw it was leaking and then drove it to my guy. So mine was a small leak. Yours is massive I hate to say.

We shall see. But I'm so far ahead on the car I can't see it bothering me too much. It's time for winter storage anyway. So I'm glad it didn't empty on the garage floor over the winter.

maw

 

I feel for you brother! If you've already done you accumulators, my money is on one of the o-rings at the tandem pump, banjo fittings or a cracked pulsation damper. The motor oil spewing is an odd one though. The usual suspects for oil leaks would be any of the oil cooler/filter housing seals, timing port seal, breather covers, oil sending unit in the upper pan, and naturally the valve covers. I'm very particular about MB valve cover gaskets just for that reason. The way your pulleys are drenched I'm leaning towards oil cooler/filter housing seals or timing port seal. These cars will test your patience!

Mine needs a new PSE pump and I just don't want to spend money on it anymore. I don't think I've driven it 10 miles in the past 2 months.

 

I truly hate that smell btw! It doesn't smell like any other fluid being burned.

 

Yeah, it's horrible and very distinctive. I was on the highway almost home when I first smelled it, and it took me until I pulled in the garage to remember "oh fockkk, that's Pentosin. Let me
get this thing to Sam while it's still driveable."

maw

 

As I’m sitting here waiting and thinking, I’m starting to lean towards you being correct. It looked dark, like motor oil but it’s more than likely Pentosin, and was being sprayed/flung through the engine bay by the belts. (So much so it was coming through the star emblem on the engine cover and pouring down) Hopefully it’s a simple fix. Like I said I did an oil change not too long ago, checked the oil last week and it was full, but really hadn’t driven the car much. It’s possible it just needs a half/full quart of oil and there’s no issue with motor oil leaking.

 

I went back through your thread to see if there was mention of oil leaks leading up to your recent breakdown event. Although I somewhat agree with MAW about you possibly being mistaken that it could just be Pentosin everywhere, check your oil level switch on top of the upper oil pan. It's one of those things people tend to not think about being a leak path (although I highly doubt it would get to the top of the engine).

I have changed that on the M113 and M113K that I've owned because of significant oil leaks. The only thing that sucks is if it is leaking, you have to drop the lower pan to change it because it's bolted in from underneath. The worst part of the job is surface prep for the pan re-seal. There's also a "nub" (for lack of a better word to describe it) that's cast into the pan as a pry point.

 

Yeah, I think your other quart of oil was still in the engine when you checked it. That's why I just use the dash computer. That's all Pentosin on the floor Joe.

I just talked to my guys, who sprayed the car down and couldn't find the leak, which is more proof about how small it must have been. I probably didn't do myself any favors by driving the car over there, because that was at highway speed and they said the fluid was "everywhere." But we'll see how it goes.

maw

EDIT… Holford has me thinking about that valve block O-Ring… and we spotted a wet hose this summer, but when we had the transmission out for the rear main seal we saw nothing wet… so this may be a bit of a hunt.

 

Quick update:

Mechanic (also a very good friend of mine) called me right after i left the shop and said he started poking around, and that the bottom oil cooler line was split, and rubbing against the power steering pulley (Tandem pump I'm thinking). I wasn't going to start firing off questions. I said "Ok i'll be up tomorrow morning and we'll put a game plan together". Before i left the shop, I made it a point to tell him to hold off on moving the car until i run him up a bunch of Pentosin, lets fill the reservoir so we don't run the pump dry while pulling it into the shop. So now my wheels are turning and i started thinking. The bottom of the pan was wet from a week ago in which the mechanic said he cleaned it really well and to keep an eye on it. I'm thinking it was weeping this whole time, and it finally let loose. The oil i used was the Lugi-molly-gen High milage oil which is the same Green color as the Pentosin. So i think thats where the confusion has come into play. My only thinking as to why i got a White ABC light was because the pump was spraying so much oil all over the place that i was getting belt slip, the pump wasn't building pressure, and thats what triggered the light. Thats the only thing i can think of. When the tow truck finally showed up, i told him i wanted to pull the car onto the flat bed because it has to be cut off immediately. When i turned the car on and began to pull it up, i felt the suspension jump up in the air and pressurize. I said to myself thats odd, but it makes sense. I also lost power steering slightly for a minute when i was pulling into the gas station first thing this morning, and the only thing i can think of there is that there was so much oil that the belt was just slipping.

So thats where were at for now. I'll know more in the morning. I started looking around for a W220 oil cooler line and i cant find anything on any site. W211 Lines but nothing for a W220 AMG. I'll have to call around and see if i can source one.

As always thanks for the quick responses and brainstorming gents, at the least the community helps relieve some stress. You always think worse case scenario when these things pop up.

I'll report back.

- Joe

 

Oil cooler line rubbing against a pulley implies bad engine mounts.

Food for thought.

 

Yes, they definitely need to be replaced and are creeping up higher on the to-do-now list for sure