Y’all are something else, I feel like there’s more knowledge in this forum than most mechanic know. It’s nice to see enthusiasts who really care about it, I thought I’d upload a few more pictures of the car, since she is beautiful. Thanks for welcoming me here.
Y’all are something else, I feel like there’s more knowledge in this forum than most mechanic know. It’s nice to see enthusiasts who really care about it, I thought I’d upload a few more pictures of the car, since she is beautiful. Thanks for welcoming me here.
I will keep it updated as I make progress
Sharp!! Really like the wheels. You may have noticed my Newbie status in my profile. Very accurate. I've had mine just over a year and am at the bottom of the learning curve! Here are a couple shots of it.
Not necessarily. Think I'd go at it this way. This of course assumes belts and hoses all check out.
1) Full Pan-Off Transmission Service - Identify and Correct Transmission Issue - Install New Transmission Mount
2) Oil Change and Brake Fluid Flush and Fill
3) Cooling System Flush and Fill - Install Bosch 010 Intercooler Pump
4) Install Crank Position Sensor
5) Supercharger Oil Change.
6) Good News No ABC Rodeo Necessary!
If you decide to move on the basics are done. A tune based on an 83mm Clutched Pulley shouldn't overwork anything and really does make a surprising difference. Race IQ for sure on the ECU tune and the MK Ultra TCU module can be purchased later if you want crisper shifts.
These guys are great....but I would add Motor Mounts to this.....my thinking is - you know it is a failure point - and you also have no knowledge of the past of the car (I assume) .... dont know what was done - or how it was driven. If in doubt about the motor mounts just watch the video AMG Meister has.
Sharp!! Really like the wheels. You may have noticed my Newbie status in my profile. Very accurate. I've had mine just over a year and am at the bottom of the learning curve! Here are a couple shots of it.
I recently changed the engine and transmission mounts on my 2003 S55.
I installed the Black Series engine mounts,
which I got from FCP Euro.
The driver’s side engine mount I removed
was totally blown out, and leaking fluid.
The transmission mount was also shot.
So, be aware that fluid may leak out when removing the engine mounts.
I wasn’t wearing goggles but it’s a good idea.
Changing these mounts was well worth it, as the car is a lot smoother now. I also changed
the power steering rack bushings.
I will be changing the lower thrust arms, ball joints, lower spring control arms, inner and
outer tie rods, and boots soon. Then, align
it. I also will be removing the supercharger
and changing the gaskets, oil, and the fuel injector o-rings.
I’ve seen videos of people jacking up the engine using the oil pan when changing
engine mounts but I decided to use the transmission bell housing area instead.
If the oil pan got cracked, the car would be bricked, and there would be 8.5 qt. of oil,
all over the floor.
Other items to inspect/change are the water pump, thermostat, belt tensioners, pulleys, belts, temperature sensor, and hoses.
I also have a MK Ultra TCU and it made a night & day difference on my car. Speaking of transmissions, I'd check the fluid to see if it's ever been changed since Mercedes intended on these being maintenance free transmissions. The "wicking" that he's ^^^^^ talking about is the result of failing o-rings, to the cannon plug, on the transmission, for the TCU wiring and it will eventually make its way into the TCU. Both of my 722.6 cars that I've owned needed a flush, filter, gasket & o-rings replaced.
Hardened/dry rotted PCV hoses, belts and oil cooler seals are often overlooked. A spare crank sensor is good to keep in the car too.
+1 on the battery and 010 pump too.
How in God's name does one get at the crank sensor? I know approximately where it is, (driver's side back of engine) pulled the airboxes and snorkel, nice brite lite, don't see it and if it's where I think it is I can't figure a way to get at the damn thing anyway. It's not like I have gorilla sized hands or anything but there is ZERO clearance down there.
Yeah, it's not in the best of places if you're trying to put eyes on it! I haven't changed one in a while, but I believe it's either a 7 or 8mm bolt. I can't recall if I used a 1/4" drive ratchet or a small box wrench to get to it. Maybe someone else will chime in as well.
FWIW, if you're planning to do valve covers, breather hoses and plugs, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do it all at the same time (although the valve covers are time consuming removing the old RTV from the breathers). Believe it or not but having the valve covers and coil packs out of the way does give you a little more room to get to the plugs and back to the crank sensor.
On a side note, there is a 3/16" or 1/4" vacuum hose underneath the driver's side surge tank that will give you a mystery vacuum leak if it comes unplugged. I found out the hard way with a high idle and error code. I finally hooked up a smoke machine to find where the hell the leak was coming from and that was it. I literally had to remove the surge tank to get to it because I couldn't get my hand under there, so it's not something you want to overlook.
Never fails. Just had the valve covers and plugs replaced! I'm not having any rough starts and a second check of the VMI showed a new one was installed about 6 years/42,000 miles ago so I'm gonna' back burner it for now. maw1124 mentioned that vacuum line a while back when I was experiencing some idle issues, but that was solved with the plugs and a new #4 coil pack. Thanks for getting back to me.
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
