zswinkgolf

Just bought a gem from a buddy for a great price I couldn’t pass it up. 110k miles

First off the previous owner kept this thing in pristine shape, looks great inside and out also drives great. Paint looks brand new, Mercedes’ grey. 2 small problems I’ve noticed alarm will go off randomly, I’m about to pull that out, and the gear shift will get stuck in park, this has happened twice. Not sure when I can fix that, but still this car can move.

The previous owner also swapped out the ABC suspension and did a complete coil conversion, I’ve heard this is best case as the other is an expensive repair.

Now to it, I want to add some performance upgrades to this beast and I’m not sure where to start or if I shouldn’t even be considering this, but I’ve been reading and a couple performance packages seem like the right move any advice?

S_Holford

As for performance, I'm pretty content with my 83mm pulley, tune and secondary cat/resonator removal/x-pipe mod. I initially wanted headers but the car sounds great without being too obnoxious, however it's a different car now....but in a good way. I was tempted to go with a smaller pulley but the ambient air temp here exceeds 110-115 degrees in the summer and that's not helping IAT's with increased boost. I like reliability above all else.

As for the ABC, I happen to like mine. It's been a love-hate relationship though because my car was neglected by the previous owner and I've been under this car a lot! You're going to hear some mixed opinions about the ABC.

If I were in your shoes I'd address any overlooked/overdue maintenance and correct the small stuff first. Otherwise clean car and welcome aboard!

CICBarkeep

Too bad about the ABC but that's a pretty car. As previously mentioned, any deferred maintenance and small stuff first. Check the battery, weird **** happens when it gets low. Solved a few gremlins when I replaced mine, including a random alarm issue. The sticking in Park is WAY above my pay grade, but you might start with the TCU. Don't know if that could be a result of the infamous wicking but like I said, it's a place to start. If it's not been done, install a Bosch 010 intercooler pump. Preventative measure that you'll have to do anyway if you tune. Race IQ has a sterling ECU reputation and MK-Electronics is known for TCU's. A tune with an 83mm pulley is considered pretty tame by some, but I can tell you from experience it definitely makes a difference even without the exhaust modifications. Enjoy the car and have fun. She's a beauty. Welcome aboard and Good Luck!

S_Holford

I also have a MK Ultra TCU and it made a night & day difference on my car. Speaking of transmissions, I'd check the fluid to see if it's ever been changed since Mercedes intended on these being maintenance free transmissions. The "wicking" that he's ^^^^^ talking about is the result of failing o-rings, to the cannon plug, on the transmission, for the TCU wiring and it will eventually make its way into the TCU. Both of my 722.6 cars that I've owned needed a flush, filter, gasket & o-rings replaced.

Hardened/dry rotted PCV hoses, belts and oil cooler seals are often overlooked. A spare crank sensor is good to keep in the car too.

+1 on the battery and 010 pump too.

CICBarkeep

No doubt on the tranny service, especially given the sticking in Park situation and the CPS suggestion is a really good one. I took my '05 back to stock configuration but sometimes wish I hadn't. Still a beastly highway cruiser and the pulley, belt, and TCU went to good homes.

CICBarkeep

You'll probably being hearing from maw1124 sometime soon and he's a great source of information.

zswinkgolf

Thanks for the responses! This week I’m going to flush all fluids, and then check on the connectors during that process. I’m going to take care of the little things first and also look for any thing that could cause a problem in the future. Are there any other small things I should look at?

keeping a back up crank shaft sensor in the car

check for oil wicking up wires into tcu

flush fluids

looked for leaks and cracked hoses today couldn’t find anything

zswinkgolf

Where do I buy the right atf fluid? MB brand

CICBarkeep

FCP Euro. I used Liqui-Moly but they carry Pentosin as well.

FL_S55AMG

Hi there - nice ride - btw the 2 of us are both new S55 owners...we will prob be driving these older gurus nuts!!!

From my research on here trolling posts, depending on where you live (ie ambient temps) you may want to/should upgrade the intercooler, change your supercharger oil (Mobil Jet Oil only) and then do a clutchless (or clutched) pulley upgrade, change all your belts, tensioner pulleys.....then, you should replace(in no particular order):

1. Transmission mounts
2. Motor mounts
3. Transmission flush - and change the sensor housed in the trans

CICBarkeep

All good advice but for me at least, a clutchless pulley is a no go unless instant engagement is important to you. Noisy at idle. Any chance the sensor you mentioned is actually the 13-pin connector? The seal inside the connector is the source of the tranny fluid wicking up into the TCU.
Here's a good source if you're looking at learning a bit more about AMG:
(14) AMGmeister - YouTube
And a couple tutorials from that site:
Good luck, have fun, and welcome to the club!

maw1124

Agreed on the clutchless pulley. That rattle at idle is annoying. I have the 83mm clutched and it feels like stock, just the clutch probably engages at different RPM now. No biggie.

Also +1 for AMG Meister.

One thing people overlook to their detriment is the crank pulley. I wouldn’t do any of this on your original crank pulley, now almost 20y later.

maw

zswinkgolf

Thanks again guys this forum and you all are so knowledgeable it’s really good stuff.

so what you’re saying is just keep it stock and roll with what I have? No performance upgrades, I’m completely fine with that if it means having my car last longer, I can just change the little things now that are important and keep routine maintenance on it. This thing stock still has so much power

one thing I can’t figure out is this shift lever stuck in park, it’s been random most of the time but recently I’ve noticed after driving when I stop and shift into park, if I immediately try to move it it’s stuck, but shut the car off turn back on and 80% of the time it’s good, the other 20 I have to mess with it and turn the car on and off.

CICBarkeep

Yeah, I just ordered two crank sensors from FCP. One for the S55 and the other for the SL500. Easy DIY. If you're a spider monkey!

maw1124

No, not at all... this car accepts mods very well, but (1) you need to tend to the back maintenance first; and (2) the more you mod, the more of the factory built in safety you're removing.

So for (1), that includes (a) crank pulley; (b) supercharger oil; (c) intercooler pump upgrade; (d) spark plugs, oil changes, transmission plug not leaking, all that fun stuff. The last thing you want to do is put the car under more load when those things haven't been attended to.

For (2), an 83mm supercharger pulley and tune are about as safe as safe gets. Even then, you're taking the chance that the aftermarket pulley is as robust as the OEM MB pulley, which IMO is tenuous but I took the risk anyway. My OEM pulley went out at about the 15 year mark, so from there it was either put another stock one on or give it a whirl. I decided to give it a whirl. But I have a stock one in my parts stash. I had already put a new crank pulley on the car, just because I had been advised and had the opportunity to do so. People report 77mm, 80mm supercharger pulley upgrades to be safe as well.

So by all means, mod the car if that's what you want to do (even though it certainly doesn't need it, to @cicbarkeep's point), but do it smartly. Handle the basics first. And on these cars, the basics is a lot.

maw

CICBarkeep

Not necessarily. Think I'd go at it this way. This of course assumes belts and hoses all check out.
1) Full Pan-Off Transmission Service - Identify and Correct Transmission Issue - Install New Transmission Mount
2) Oil Change and Brake Fluid Flush and Fill
3) Cooling System Flush and Fill - Install Bosch 010 Intercooler Pump
4) Install Crank Position Sensor
5) Supercharger Oil Change.
6) Good News No ABC Rodeo Necessary!
If you decide to move on the basics are done. A tune based on an 83mm Clutched Pulley shouldn't overwork anything and really does make a surprising difference. Race IQ for sure on the ECU tune and the MK Ultra TCU module can be purchased later if you want crisper shifts.

S_Holford

I experienced a crank pulley failure as well, but on an M113 in my old CLK55. Mine made it 22 years and 110k miles. Before I knew any better, it began as a subtle tick that sounded like a small exhaust leak. Then I noticed a different sound at WOT, still not paying it much mind. Finally, I was roughly about 3 houses away from my driveway and it threw the belt.

Upon inspection, the outer ring wobbled itself loose, began backing out the crank pulley bolt, and the hub ID keyway beat the $h!t out of the woodruff key. I'd say I lucked out since it didn't catastrophically fail or damage the crank snout. Luckily I was able to pry out the damaged woodruff key & replace it, replace the crank seal, belt, and pulley with no issue afterwards.

I plan to change the one on my W220 before it fails. You live and learn I suppose.

maw1124

My supercharger pulley failed and I didn't even know it. I was driving it the way I do (which is to say sanely), but there would be this weird vibration under more than 1/2 load. Cruising around town, no issue, but as soon as you put your foot too far into it, vibration. And all my mounts were fresh. I drove it like that for months, not being able to figure out what was that "vibration under load" thing until I went for an oil change. My guy pulled off the engine cover and the bearing grease was all over the place and 3 or 4 of the supercharger pulley bearings were missing.

These stories just show you that these are VERY robust, and VERY precise machines. Noises, pulls, creaks and rattles that other cars come off the lot with are not to be ignored on these -- they are symptoms of a problem. If the thing isn't idling like a Prius and tracking dead straight at 100mph like you're driving on glass, something is likely wrong. It's time for a transmission mount and new tires on my car (Spring service items) but 90% of the time it feels better than my wife's '22 E450 4Matic with less than 10k on it.

Seriously. They're designed to limp home better than most cars drive.

maw

EDIT... add CRANK PULLEY to @cicbarkeep's list and there you have it. 50/50 your P,R,D engagement issue is the crank position sensor. If that's NOT it we'll dig into it some more, but my money is there (read "your money should be there").

S_Holford

I definitely agree! I rarely drive my car to work (long commute) but sometimes I do just because I want to enjoy the ride. It's amazing that a 20 year old is so comfortable and quiet.

CICBarkeep

Crank pulley and seal, eh? My Christmas wish list is getting longer and longer.

CICBarkeep

Assuming engine oil drain. Any special tools needed?

S_Holford

Keep in mind I performed this on an M113, not an M113K and the pulley is different due to the supercharger.

I had to buy a tool to hold the crank pulley while torque-ing it. There's several variants, some expensive some cheap, some fit better than others. The one intended for my car fit the original design. The replacement pulley was an updated design with different shaped openings (genuine MB for both), not sure if this applies to M113K. The engagement lugs weren't long enough to fit perfectly, but it well enough to torque it....barely.

There's a procedure to follow for proper installation. I believe it's an additional 90 degrees past 150ft lbs. If you don't own a 1/2" drive torque wrench and breaker bar you'll need one. The crank bolt also requires replacement since it's torque to yield. I didn't need any pullers for the old pulley removal. It went relatively smooth, but I advise performing your own due diligence before diving in. There's several sources and DIY videos covering it.

maw1124

^^^ this is what I understand … double clicking on “Do Not Reuse The Bolt.”

maw

CICBarkeep

There's an '04 S600 listed on BaT and one of the commentors mentioned the Park Pawl as a shortcoming of the 722.6 and a little further research revealed that difficulty shifting out of park is often a symptom of a bad pawl in automatic transmissions.

Temporary fix might be setting the parking brake prior to shifting into Park?

zswinkgolf

Y’all are something else, I feel like there’s more knowledge in this forum than most mechanic know. It’s nice to see enthusiasts who really care about it, I thought I’d upload a few more pictures of the car, since she is beautiful. Thanks for welcoming me here.

I will keep it updated as I make progress