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Hi all, time has come to swap my front rotors / brakes. Going to follow a similar approach to how I did the rears but had a question or two. Original post on rear rotors/brakes here
Here is the parts that I have ordered.
Rotors (Front) - Brembo - Cost $1,809 with shipping
Pads (Front) - Powerstop Ceramic - Cost $69.21 with shipping.
Total - $1,878.21
My question is if there is any single one time use bolts I need to be aware of? If not, can i just thread lock. Thanks all.
They suggest the 18mm caliper bolts should only be used once. I did not change mine when I did the rears, only because I forgot, but will when I change the front rotors.
Hi all, time has come to swap my front rotors / brakes. Going to follow a similar approach to how I did the rears but had a question or two. Original post on rear rotors/brakes here
Here is the parts that I have ordered.
Rotors (Front) - Brembo - Cost $1,809 with shipping
Pads (Front) - Powerstop Ceramic - Cost $69.21 with shipping.
Total - $1,878.21
My question is if there is any single one time use bolts I need to be aware of? If not, can i just thread lock. Thanks all.
I think this is the part: 019-990-81-01, recommended single use.
About to do the same job. Are you doing it yourself or have your trusted indi do the job for you? If the latter, can you (or anyone else who might know) calibrate me on how much they charge? Thanks.
I think this is the part: 019-990-81-01, recommended single use.
About to do the same job. Are you doing it yourself or have your trusted indi do the job for you? If the latter, can you (or anyone else who might know) calibrate me on how much they charge? Thanks.
Going to do myself, as I did the rears myself. Parts and Labor with indy still gna run you 3-4k imo. Also I think the part you mentioned is for rears, I'm doing the fronts.
Last edited by Vanquish59; May 28, 2024 at 07:57 PM.
Fronts are so much easier than the rears. I did the sensor side first, so that was my learning side, probably took an hour, but that was because I also glued back the little air dam/spoiler thingy that's attached to the fender well by rivets. The front left side took around 10 minutes start to finish. But just the pads, I didn't do the rotors. Everything was easier to get to on the front, you can turn the wheels to make the caliper bolts easier to reach, wasn;t an option on the rears. I've watched a couple videos and some say the caliper bolts on the front are 21mm, others say 18mm. As you know, the rears are 18mm. I wish I had washed the car right before doing all the work, especially the rear brakes. Enjoy!!
Last edited by carlosinseattle; May 28, 2024 at 08:33 PM.
Fronts are so much easier than the rears. I did the sensor side first, so that was my learning side, probably took an hour, but that was because I also glued back the little air dam/spoiler thingy that's attached to the fender well by rivets. The front left side took around 10 minutes start to finish. But just the pads, I didn't do the rotors. Everything was easier to get to on the front, you can turn the wheels to make the caliper bolts easier to reach, wasn;t an option on the rears. I've watched a couple videos and some say the caliper bolts on the front are 21mm, others say 18mm. As you know, the rears are 18mm. I wish I had washed the car right before doing all the work, especially the rear brakes. Enjoy!!
Awesome! So did you actually use a one-time use bolt (21mm?) or did you reuse bolts. Also any gotchas? Currently I only have the rotors and pads. Should I be replacing sensor or any additional item?
Going to do myself, as I did the rears myself. Parts and Labor with indy still gna run you 3-4k imo. Also I think the part you mentioned is for rears, I'm doing the fronts.
Thank you.
Yes, my bad on the front/rear, apologies. Front: 019-990-71-01; rear: 019-990-81-01.
Awesome! So did you actually use a one-time use bolt (21mm?) or did you reuse bolts. Also any gotchas? Currently I only have the rotors and pads. Should I be replacing sensor or any additional item?
On the rears, which were 18mm caliper bolts, I reused them, only because I forgot. I meant to swap the bolts, but forgot to order them with the other parts. AND...I didn't have an 18mm socket or wrench on hand so I had to walk to the hardware store to buy a wrench. You've already done the rears, which are more dificult to get to than th efronts. So much more room to work with at the front. I did not do a rotor swap on the fronts since they had less than 10K on them. The best thing about the carbon ceramic pads is they don't grind down the rotors the way OEM pads or other basic pads do. So you can expect longer life from your rotors. I reused the sensor because there was so much pad life left that the sensor hadn't been "touched" if you know what I mean. A clean environment goes a long way; I only wish I had pressure waashed everything down before I began. Pads on these cars are SUPER EASY! I'd go ahead and use a brake pad spreader, you can get it for under $20 at Amazon or a little more at your local parts store. I just used my hands and a screwdriver to push the pistons back in. Get yourself a
to suck some brake fluid out, then you can put some back in if necessary when completed. A larger syringe is easier to handle than a smaller one, although you will only suck out 20-30ml. I leave the cap off after sucking out brake fluid, but some people don't for fear of any fluid pushing out. You can use a wire hanger from your closet to hang the caliper out of the way when changing the rotors. Mine popped right off, but I've seen videos of rotors that were difficult to remove. Since you are replacing them you can just whack them with a hammer, otherwise use a piece of scrap to wood to protect the rotors from the hammer head.
Again, this will be super easy compared to the rears.
On the rears, which were 18mm caliper bolts, I reused them, only because I forgot. I meant to swap the bolts, but forgot to order them with the other parts. AND...I didn't have an 18mm socket or wrench on hand so I had to walk to the hardware store to buy a wrench. You've already done the rears, which are more dificult to get to than th efronts. So much more room to work with at the front. I did not do a rotor swap on the fronts since they had less than 10K on them. The best thing about the carbon ceramic pads is they don't grind down the rotors the way OEM pads or other basic pads do. So you can expect longer life from your rotors. I reused the sensor because there was so much pad life left that the sensor hadn't been "touched" if you know what I mean. A clean environment goes a long way; I only wish I had pressure waashed everything down before I began. Pads on these cars are SUPER EASY! I'd go ahead and use a brake pad spreader, you can get it for under $20 at Amazon or a little more at your local parts store. I just used my hands and a screwdriver to push the pistons back in. Get yourself a Syringe to suck some brake fluid out, then you can put some back in if necessary when completed. A larger syringe is easier to handle than a smaller one, although you will only suck out 20-30ml. I leave the cap off after sucking out brake fluid, but some people don't for fear of any fluid pushing out. You can use a wire hanger from your closet to hang the caliper out of the way when changing the rotors. Mine popped right off, but I've seen videos of rotors that were difficult to remove. Since you are replacing them you can just whack them with a hammer, otherwise use a piece of scrap to wood to protect the rotors from the hammer head.
Again, this will be super easy compared to the rears.
Awesome bro, just for clarification you just re-used the front 21mm bolts? Yes, I bet it will be much easier since I will be turning the wheels outwards. The dealership I bought from didn't replace any rotors and the car is currently close to 35-40k miles. Might as well do the entire job. The only wierd thing I don't understand is why my sensor isn't indicating brake wear. I hear a grinding noise from my fronts, which signal to me pad material hitting rotor, but the dashboard says nothing.
Awesome bro, just for clarification you just re-used the front 21mm bolts? Yes, I bet it will be much easier since I will be turning the wheels outwards. The dealership I bought from didn't replace any rotors and the car is currently close to 35-40k miles. Might as well do the entire job. The only wierd thing I don't understand is why my sensor isn't indicating brake wear. I hear a grinding noise from my fronts, which signal to me pad material hitting rotor, but the dashboard says nothing.
No, I didn't change my front rotors so I didn't remove the calipers, so no need to remove the caliper bolts. If you change your rotors, you will need to remove the calipers; I'd suggesst replacing the caliper bolts, but it isn't 100% necessary. When changing just the pads, there is only one bolt to remove, the pad retaining bolt. I also had to remove the sensor bolt on the front right side; you have to get the sensor out of the way in order to remove the pad retaining bolt. But it took less than a minute. Otherwise just two pins where you'll use a punch and hammer, and pliers for removal. That's why it takes no time to do it. You're going to spend 30 minutes on each side for all the work you're doing, where my left side took less than 10 minutes.
As far as the noise you hear; it could be from the last person not properly bedding the pads to the rotors. The only problem is if the noise you hear if because the pistons aren't releasing, then that's a whole other ballgame. You'll know because you'll see uneven brake pad wear. All 4 pads I removed look equally worn down, the difference was imperceptible. If you see uneven pad wear (either right side to left side, or inner to outer) then you know you have a sticky piston. Maybe use some brake cleaner on the pistons anyway, since you'll already be in there. Spray liberally and wipe away excess. Use some newspaper, or something else you can throw away underneath, to catch the runoff.
No, I didn't change my front rotors so I didn't remove the calipers, so no need to remove the caliper bolts. If you change your rotors, you will need to remove the calipers; I'd suggesst replacing the caliper bolts, but it isn't 100% necessary. When changing just the pads, there is only one bolt to remove, the pad retaining bolt. I also had to remove the sensor bolt on the front right side; you have to get the sensor out of the way in order to remove the pad retaining bolt. But it took less than a minute. Otherwise just two pins where you'll use a punch and hammer, and pliers for removal. That's why it takes no time to do it. You're going to spend 30 minutes on each side for all the work you're doing, where my left side took less than 10 minutes.
As far as the noise you hear; it could be from the last person not properly bedding the pads to the rotors. The only problem is if the noise you hear if because the pistons aren't releasing, then that's a whole other ballgame. You'll know because you'll see uneven brake pad wear. All 4 pads I removed look equally worn down, the difference was imperceptible. If you see uneven pad wear (either right side to left side, or inner to outer) then you know you have a sticky piston. Maybe use some brake cleaner on the pistons anyway, since you'll already be in there. Spray liberally and wipe away excess. Use some newspaper, or something else you can throw away underneath, to catch the runoff.
Ty bro. Originally swapped the rear rotors and pads due to very strong whining noise. Once swapped, noise was gone. Didn't swap the fronts since no noise and the pads looked new. Now will do the entire front rotors and pads. Eventually going to do tires, as I have a nail in the rears that deflates every week or so. Any good tires you use recommend? Currently on michellin pilot 3. I have attached a picture of my front rotor and pads, looks pretty low to me, wyt?
Looks like you still have life left in those pads. However, from that picture it looks like either you've worn them past the part where they were chamfered, or they were never chamfered, so good time to make the change. Fortunately or unfortunately you really don;t have any choices on tires for OEM tire sizes. You're pretty much stuck with Michelin PS4's, you can choose from all season tires or not, but that's pretty much the only choice available. If you still want ultra high performance all season but willing to go with different brands, you can run Continental DWS06+ up front and Bridgetsones Potenza's 980AS+ in back. I personally like Bridgestones and Continentals better but you can't get a matching set all around for the S63's. In my opinion/experience they are 90% of what the PS4's give you, but can be bought for a lot less, especially when on sale. I think there might be a Pirelli option available too but not aware. Since you're in SoCal you can get away with a High Performance Summer tire, you probably don't need All Season tires. I'm in Seattle, so rain behavior takes precedence over all factors. Tire Rack is a great resource for information and reviews.
Looks like you still have life left in those pads. However, from that picture it looks like either you've worn them past the part where they were chamfered, or they were never chamfered, so good time to make the change. Fortunately or unfortunately you really don;t have any choices on tires for OEM tire sizes. You're pretty much stuck with Michelin PS4's, you can choose from all season tires or not, but that's pretty much the only choice available. If you still want ultra high performance all season but willing to go with different brands, you can run Continental DWS06+ up front and Bridgetsones Potenza's 980AS+ in back. I personally like Bridgestones and Continentals better but you can't get a matching set all around for the S63's. In my opinion/experience they are 90% of what the PS4's give you, but can be bought for a lot less, especially when on sale. I think there might be a Pirelli option available too but not aware. Since you're in SoCal you can get away with a High Performance Summer tire, you probably don't need All Season tires. I'm in Seattle, so rain behavior takes precedence over all factors. Tire Rack is a great resource for information and reviews.
Awesome, will be doing rotors/pads today. Will let you know outcome soon.
Looks like you still have life left in those pads. However, from that picture it looks like either you've worn them past the part where they were chamfered, or they were never chamfered, so good time to make the change. Fortunately or unfortunately you really don;t have any choices on tires for OEM tire sizes. You're pretty much stuck with Michelin PS4's, you can choose from all season tires or not, but that's pretty much the only choice available. If you still want ultra high performance all season but willing to go with different brands, you can run Continental DWS06+ up front and Bridgetsones Potenza's 980AS+ in back. I personally like Bridgestones and Continentals better but you can't get a matching set all around for the S63's. In my opinion/experience they are 90% of what the PS4's give you, but can be bought for a lot less, especially when on sale. I think there might be a Pirelli option available too but not aware. Since you're in SoCal you can get away with a High Performance Summer tire, you probably don't need All Season tires. I'm in Seattle, so rain behavior takes precedence over all factors. Tire Rack is a great resource for information and reviews.
Done with changes. Rotors and pads fitted well. Pads were very low. The caliper bolts were swapped, 1 time use, bought at local dealership. Here are the specs I followed. (Note, torque specs are following from MB docs, the rest I searched internet. Do your own research when using these numbers!)
Remove tires - 17mm
Tool to punch out pins. - 5/32 or 3/16
Center bolt holding metal plate on pads = 13mm
Pad Sensor bolt = E10, Inverted Torx Socket
Caliper bolts = 21mm socket
Rotor Bolt = T30
___________________________________
Torque Specs
Bolt - Brake Wear Sensor To Brake Caliper - 8 NM
Bolt - Brake Caliper to Steering Knuckle (One time use bolts) - 150 NM additional 45 degree
Bolt - Front Axle Brake Disk To Wheel Hub - 10 NM
Bolt - Lug - 150 NM
Last edited by Vanquish59; May 31, 2024 at 03:21 PM.
Done with changes. Rotors and pads fitted well. Pads were very low. The caliper bolts were swapped, 1 time use, bought at local dealership. Here are the specs I followed. (Note, torque specs are following from MB docs, the rest I searched internet. Do your own research when using these numbers!)
Remove tires - 17mm
Tool to punch out pins. - 5/32 or 3/16
Center bolt holding metal plate on pads = 13mm
Pad Sensor bolt = E10, Inverted Torx Socket
Caliper bolts = 21mm socket
Rotor Bolt = T30
___________________________________
Torque Specs
Bolt - Brake Wear Sensor To Brake Caliper - 8 NM
Bolt - Brake Caliper to Steering Knuckle (One time use bolts) - 150 NM additional 45 degree
Bolt - Front Axle Brake Disk To Wheel Hub - 10 NM
Bolt - Lug - 150 NM
Let us know your thoughts on the rotors after few hundred miles.
Congrats on a job well done!! The difference in brake dust is truly phenonomal, at least it has been for me. Do those rotors weigh the same as the OEM rotors? Just curious. I bought the Zimmerman rotors for my rear brakes, they weigh around 4lbs more per rotor. I don;t think I'll need to change the front rotors from OEM, at least for the next 50K miles or so.
Congrats on a job well done!! The difference in brake dust is truly phenonomal, at least it has been for me. Do those rotors weigh the same as the OEM rotors? Just curious. I bought the Zimmerman rotors for my rear brakes, they weigh around 4lbs more per rotor. I don;t think I'll need to change the front rotors from OEM, at least for the next 50K miles or so.
Rotor weight seems very similar. My rears are brembo and powerstop and indeed the zero dust is night n day. Thank you for all the help!
Congrats on a job well done!! The difference in brake dust is truly phenonomal, at least it has been for me. Do those rotors weigh the same as the OEM rotors? Just curious. I bought the Zimmerman rotors for my rear brakes, they weigh around 4lbs more per rotor. I don;t think I'll need to change the front rotors from OEM, at least for the next 50K miles or so.
Also just ordered 4 tires for the car. They had a couple months left but just replaced. I have michellin pilot sport 3 but now ordered pilot sport 4s, ferrari spec. Will let you know how it is. All in all was about $1900 for 4, tires, tax, installation, etc. The michellin PS4S has 3 different specs. The diff is like 100-200 bucks.
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