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I'd never heard of "Jectron" before you mentioned it. I looked it up just to see what it is. Made by Luqui Moly so good stuff. They specifically say good for carbuerators and port injection, but didn't say good for GDI. Probably can't hurt, but curious why they left out GDI motors.
Either a good one like liqui or fill up at chevron with techron. Liqui has always been solid, u can use it with mercedes.
I'd never heard of "Jectron" before you mentioned it. I looked it up just to see what it is. Made by Luqui Moly so good stuff. They specifically say good for carbuerators and port injection, but didn't say good for GDI. Probably can't hurt, but curious why they left out GDI motors.
Just realized two things, no squeal brake noises until the brakes get really hot, prolly above 140 degrees. My driver side front tire temperature is always about 9 degrees hotter than my passanger side. Usually 5 to 10 degrees hotter, avg 9. Attached pic.
Just realized two things, no squeal brake noises until the brakes get really hot, prolly above 140 degrees. My driver side front tire temperature is always about 9 degrees hotter than my passanger side. Usually 5 to 10 degrees hotter, avg 9. Attached pic.
Somebody else needs to chime in here and help. I can't relate to your fluid temps. I'm up in the moist PNW so I never see my temps on anything as high as yours. But that's not to say that means anything. Even when my rear brake temps were at 190 degrees farenheight, my tire temps never went above 80 degrees. But maybe that's based on ambient temps around 55 degrees. Your temps might be normal for warm climates. Your tire pressures are extremely high; a few lbs above max pressure. What are your cold tire pressures? You should set them somewhere around 45psi, most guys go even lower. I have mine set around 49psi.
Somebody else needs to chime in here and help. I can't relate to your fluid temps. I'm up in the moist PNW so I never see my temps on anything as high as yours. But that's not to say that means anything. Even when my rear brake temps were at 190 degrees farenheight, my tire temps never went above 80 degrees. But maybe that's based on ambient temps around 55 degrees. Your temps might be normal for warm climates. Your tire pressures are extremely high; a few lbs above max pressure. What are your cold tire pressures? You should set them somewhere around 45psi, most guys go even lower. I have mine set around 49psi.
Just realized today after turning on the air pressure sensor it was 55. Gna lower to 40-45. Max tire is 50psi on tire itself, on the door it's 49 psi front, 51 back, but cold.
Last edited by Vanquish59; Apr 12, 2025 at 07:36 PM.
My oil and tranny temp gets that high in the summer.
Thanks for the input, that's good to know. My oil temp rarely topped 200 in the summer, even when I pushed it, and I never remember seeing my tranny temp above 150f. I'll see what happens this summer.
Thanks for the input, that's good to know. My oil temp rarely topped 200 in the summer, even when I pushed it, and I never remember seeing my tranny temp above 150f. I'll see what happens this summer.
Scratch my last statement. I just saw transmission temps close to 175 today. 175 is totally normal.
Carlos here in the valley of the sun I see transmission temperatures of 220 any day with ambient over 85.
Engine oil temperature finds its way to 200-220 and will climb from there when I’m a savage or going up a long hill at three digits.
As for tire temperatures WOW! Mercedes you have gotten deep in the weeds for things to get owners to worry about!
Tire temps.... Not an exact science just as TPMS sensors sending a signal are going to be off some. Worry not.
I forgot that you posted the repairs on a previous post where they explained the work in great detail. I'd take it back and talk to them about what you hear and feel. Since they replaced the lower control arm, strut, and steering rack, they know there was extreme lateral force through the steering and suspension components. That the opposite side torsion bar link was also damaged is not at all surprising. The repair shop will most likely agree. If they do, I wouild also ask for the sway bar bushings to be replaced, and if possible the entire sway bar too, but that might be too difficult to prove. It will come down to whether your insurance company will allow for the additional repairs or try to deny. They already did a lot of work on your car, none of this is surprising given the type of accident you had.
Sway bars don’t get damaged in a crash unless it is bent into the shape of a pretzel. Sway bar end link that is leaking a dab of grease? You are being pretty fussy. Not going to be accident related. CPO will likely cover it. Sway bar bushings make noise due to years in the car and are much more likely to make noise if the car is driven in a filthy environment. Dirt roads... winter driving with salt on the road. That kind of stuff.
Sway bars don’t get damaged in a crash unless it is bent into the shape of a pretzel. Sway bar end link that is leaking a dab of grease? You are being pretty fussy. Not going to be accident related. CPO will likely cover it. Sway bar bushings make noise due to years in the car and are much more likely to make noise if the car is driven in a filthy environment. Dirt roads... winter driving with salt on the road. That kind of stuff.
As long as cpo covers, I'm golden, lolol. ive put 1000 miles on it since car was returned. Feels 95% of the original. Can I convince them to cover torsion bar?
I have a noise that mimics my brake pads when I go from 10 mph to 0. Definitely not pads or rotors. Anything else? Can sway bar link cause the noise?
Last edited by Vanquish59; Apr 13, 2025 at 07:44 PM.
As long as cpo covers, I'm golden, lolol. ive put 1000 miles on it since car was returned. Feels 95% of the original. Can I convince them to cover torsion bar?
I have a noise that mimics my brake pads when I go from 10 mph to 0. Definitely not pads or rotors. Anything else? Can sway bar link cause the noise?
A torsion bar is a steel spring that supports the weight of the car in one so equipped.
The sway bar is the bit we are speaking of + a link from the sway bar to the control arm on the opposite side of the car. The only noise a sway bar link is able to make will be a click or pop over a bump that will be heard at that corner.
How many miles on brake pads and rotors? Aftermarket pads?
A torsion bar is a steel spring that supports the weight of the car in one so equipped.
The sway bar is the bit we are speaking of + a link from the sway bar to the control arm on the opposite side of the car. The only noise a sway bar link is able to make will be a click or pop over a bump that will be heard at that corner.
How many miles on brake pads and rotors? Aftermarket pads?
probably less than 2000 miles. Car was sitting for a while it was being fixed. Aftermarket pads, ceramic, powerstop extreme.
probably less than 2000 miles. Car was sitting for a while it was being fixed. Aftermarket pads, ceramic, powerstop extreme.
Aftermarket pads will take time to bed in. Noise is to be expected. Squealing and noise at low speeds is exactly what I would expect. In time the pads and rotors will quiet down. No need for concern.
Aftermarket pads will take time to bed in. Noise is to be expected. Squealing and noise at low speeds is exactly what I would expect. In time the pads and rotors will quiet down. No need for concern.
The rotors had residue from the previous pads. I didn't resurface them. The weird thing is the noise is more prevalent on slopes than horizontal ground. When I'm braking of course.
A torsion bar is a steel spring that supports the weight of the car in one so equipped.
The sway bar is the bit we are speaking of + a link from the sway bar to the control arm on the opposite side of the car. The only noise a sway bar link is able to make will be a click or pop over a bump that will be heard at that corner.
How many miles on brake pads and rotors? Aftermarket pads?
Mercedes calls the "sway bar" a "torsion bar" so we're speaking of the same part, see his previous post with the details of the repairs: https://mbworld.org/forums/s63-amg-s...ml#post9142474
And you're right about the link and how it works. I beg to differ with you about damage to the sway bar. A strong lateral force like that could result in damage to the bushings and possible the sway bar itself, you'll note that both the lower control arm and strut were replaced. I've seen it happen before. And I'm not saying they are dameged definitevely, but that it is a possibility.
Mercedes calls the "sway bar" a "torsion bar" so we're speaking of the same part, see his previous post with the details of the repairs: https://mbworld.org/forums/s63-amg-s...ml#post9142474
And you're right about the link and how it works. I beg to differ with you about damage to the sway bar. A strong lateral force like that could result in damage to the bushings and possible the sway bar itself, you'll note that both the lower control arm and strut were replaced. I've seen it happen before. And I'm not saying they are dameged definitevely, but that it is a possibility.
I'm glad in a way because eventually my driver side suspension components should fail and I still have 20 months of cpo left. Hoping all my airmatic struts give out since they are expensive.
just got an update this morning for the whistle noise. Dealer couldn't diagnose for almost 1.5m. They think its the driver side ac pulley tensioner and belt. Seems like warranty won't cover. Estimate $2500. $1800 labor, $700 parts. Does this sound accurate?? Seems like a lot. Thoughts?
just got an update this morning for the whistle noise. Dealer couldn't diagnose for almost 1.5m. They think its the driver side ac pulley tensioner and belt. Seems like warranty won't cover. Estimate $2500. $1800 labor, $700 parts. Does this sound accurate?? Seems like a lot. Thoughts?
It took 1.5 months for them to come up with that diagnosis??? That's ridiculous!! Also, it sounds like a fishing expidition to me. It's quite possible that the refrigerant leaked out but wasn't detected after the accident, or during the repair procedure, and now somebody is trying to hide blame...first the pully tensioner and belt, then they'll say it's the compressor. And the only reason a compressor would go bad is because of physical damage, like during the accident, or it ran low on refrigerant. The refrigerant is also the lubricant for the system. Do you have a warranty?
It took 1.5 months for them to come up with that diagnosis??? That's ridiculous!! Also, it sounds like a fishing expidition to me. It's quite possible that the refrigerant leaked out but wasn't detected after the accident, or during the repair procedure, and now somebody is trying to hide blame...first the pully tensioner and belt, then they'll say it's the compressor. And the only reason a compressor would go bad is because of physical damage, like during the accident, or it ran low on refrigerant. The refrigerant is also the lubricant for the system. Do you have a warranty?
they ****en are a small shop. They take on a lot of work and not enough workers. I followed them through the app all along. They work Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday only. Crazy!. They replaced both engine and transmission mounts, some suspension, and now this. The initial work was quick (mounts, suspension), the whistle noise took them a bit. They tried a couple things that didn't work. Hopefully now this will be cpo covered. The technician hadn't run it through the cpo, now the SA is. I have a cpo warranty till 2027.
Last edited by Vanquish59; May 29, 2025 at 04:01 PM.
Mercedes calls the "sway bar" a "torsion bar" so we're speaking of the same part, see his previous post with the details of the repairs: https://mbworld.org/forums/s63-amg-s...ml#post9142474
And you're right about the link and how it works. I beg to differ with you about damage to the sway bar. A strong lateral force like that could result in damage to the bushings and possible the sway bar itself, you'll note that both the lower control arm and strut were replaced. I've seen it happen before. And I'm not saying they are dameged definitevely, but that it is a possibility.
I’m late for a reply but here we are.... Sway bar is made of spring steel. To damage it will require bending the spring steel beyond the point where it yields. When bent to that point it doesn’t return to original shape. In decades of seeing remains of cars crashed REALLY HARD... I’ve seen broken sway bars and bars in shapes a long way from when installed. It takes a crash that is not survivable to get there. Bushings can get moved on sway bars. I’ve seen sway bars with bushings that are ‘not replaceable.’ Counter intuitive. Control arms are easily bent/broken. Any time control arms are broken expect wheel bearings to fail shortly thereafter as they will have suffered a big shock so small spots on the bearings that will wear quickly.
Got the car back after 2m. Car drives fine, no issues, but the fkin whistle noise is back again. They thought they fixed it, but came back. They replaced both engine mounts, trans mount, sway bar linkage. All cpo. Car is smooth at idle now. I dont know what else that whistle noise could be. The noise did REDUCE A LITTLE BUT NOT COMPLETELY REMOVED. They changed the parts below. At the moment im just going to enjoy my car. The car feels brand new after the repairs over the last 3-6m. Im just going to drive it till my next major service and will take it to a new dealership to see if they can figure it out. Im at 40250 mileage. At 50k will need to take care of spark plugs. I have 1.5 years of CPO left.
133210 REMOVE/INSTALL TENSIONING DEVICE FOR V-BELT AT ALTERNATOR
133205 REMOVE/INSTALL TENSIONING DEVICE FOR V-BELT AT REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR
133122 REPLACE GUIDE PULLEY FOR POLY-V BELT OF ALTERNATOR (POLY-V BELT REMOVED)
Talked to another friend who thinks it might be the crankshaft main bearing, which i find hard to believe. Attached pic.
Last edited by Vanquish59; Jun 16, 2025 at 04:12 AM.
Enjoy your car while in CPO coverage. There's no way of diagnosing main bearing damage except to tear the engine down and take a look. I remember when working on old school cars in the past, in order to prevent damage to the main bearings, we would hand crank a motor if it sat without running for an extended period of time. Sometimes we'd overfill the crankcase with oil then drain it once or twice before putting the correct amount of oil in prior to turning it over. Diagnosing the main bearings could probable be done without removing the engine, that's something a real mechanic would know. Be mindful if the noise gets worse. But enjoy your car while you can, whether it's 1.5 years or 15 years.
Last edited by carlosinseattle; Jun 16, 2025 at 12:15 PM.
Enjoy your car while in CPO coverage. There's no way of diagnosing main bearing damage except to tear the engine down and take a look. I remember when working on old school cars in the past, in order to prevent damage to the main bearings, we would hand crank a motor if it sat without running for an extended period of time. Sometimes we'd overfill the crankcase with oil then drain it once or twice before putting the correct amount of oil in prior to turning it over. Diagnosing the main bearings could probable be done without removing the engine, that's something a real mechanic would know. Be mindful if the noise gets worse. But enjoy your car while you can, whether it's 1.5 years or 15 years.
Car runs exceptionally well, just the noise. Can live with it. Too risky to constantly remove parts in car to diagnose. Going to just enjoy my car. The cle53 they gave as a loaner is nttn compared to the s63, all plastic. Brand new car had more squeals than mine. Thank you Carlos!
Last edited by Vanquish59; Jun 16, 2025 at 12:27 PM.
Squealing/high pitched wine coming from the front of the engine, right by the fan. Bearings? Alternator? No cel. Noise pops up after the car has been driving for a good 10-20 minutes while IDLE. (This is the primary major issue). Attached audio.
Front pads are already worn out. I replaced the front ones with powerstop's (Z231291) 9 months ago, and drove them only 3 months. 6 months of sitting and they are already flattened. Stuck piston? Calipers? Kind of weird. I did notice the tire temperature of my front left is about 8 degrees higher than my right (can be because its worn down more). I ordered the high performance version instead (Z261291)
Regarding tire temperature higher for front left vs right tire:
I have noticed the same for both my S63 - learnt this has to do with radiator position and heat venting. Same anomaly with BMW cars as well.
I have noticed up to 10-12 degree F difference - not an issue.
Regarding tire temperature higher for front left vs right tire:
I have noticed the same for both my S63 - learnt this has to do with radiator position and heat venting. Same anomaly with BMW cars as well.
I have noticed up to 10-12 degree F difference - not an issue.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
