S63 AMG, S63 AMG 4Matic, S65 AMG (W222, V222) 2014 -2021

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Old Jul 12, 2025 | 08:39 AM
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One of them there S cars
How many of you

Do your own maintenance? Not talking about engine or tranny R&Rs, but merely oil changes, plugs, brakes, minor repairs, etc. You know, the more... basic stuff.
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Old Jul 12, 2025 | 10:00 AM
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I do the basics on my 2019 S63. The only basics i will not do are the plugs and the trans service. The plugs because they are just a massive PITA to get to without breaking stuff like plug tabs and other plastic bits and just not worth the aggravation. The trans because it requires a very specific routine with the DAS system and I do not want to risk doing something wrong on such an expensive part. I have done oil changes, brake flushes and brake jobs on it though. It is a pretty easy car to work on for basic stuff. I have quickjacks for the routine services and brake work, if I had a lift I might venture into more intense stuff but it also comes down to time. This is my daily driver so I cannot just have it on a lift with the motor out for weeks on end.
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Old Jul 12, 2025 | 05:32 PM
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2001 S600 V12 Sold, 2011 Jaguar XFR Sold, 2017 S550 4-Matic, 2018 S63 AMG Sedan
2018 S63 Sedan 50K miles and have owned for almost 2 years as of this writing.

So far I've done:
Rear Brakes; rear pads and rotors, swapped rotors to Zimmerman and pads to Powerstop - reduced brake dust by more than 75% - Moderately hard, but not difficult.
Front Brakes: Swapped the pads to Powerstop - reduced brake dust by more than 95% - Easy job.
Front Lower control arm, also called (Spring Link) - Easy just had to borrow friend's torque wrench because the ball joint screw was over 130 ft/lbs.
Oil and filter change - Super Easy
Air filters - Easy
Cabin filters - Time consuming but straightforward.
Fragrance flacon - Easy
Removed 3D Amplifier and renistalled because one speaker wasn't working - all fixed. Easy, just time consuming because of the troubleshooting.

One the list of to-do's soon:
Brake Fluid Flush
Cooland Fluid Flush
Tranny fluid change. I plan to rent the Diagnostic tool that can purge the valves - it only costs $80. Other parts cost a little over $500
Spark plugs: I'm allocating 6 hours and 3 beers for the job. I might split overnight just to reduce the pressure of the moment. Hardest part is indexing the plugs.
Front left strut: Functioning fine, just making noise under heavy compression. It's a problem across many MB models that can persist for years without being a problem, just makes a nuisance noise from time to time.

Hope that helps.
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Old Jul 12, 2025 | 11:30 PM
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Curious about plug indexing -- I thought MB plugs index themselves when torqued to spec.
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Old Jul 12, 2025 | 11:32 PM
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Agreed with the "self indexing" when torqued to spec. Perhaps he meant "gapping"?
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Digital Oxygen
Agreed with the "self indexing" when torqued to spec. Perhaps he meant "gapping"?
Plugs come gapped to spec AFAIK.
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 09:20 AM
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Indeed, most application specific plugs come pre-gaped, but it's never a bad idea to check that factory gap to ensure it's on spec.
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 11:18 AM
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Everything I have heard is that if the plug is torqued to the exact spec it should be within an acceptable position within the head. Sounds like voodoo to me but whatever, I just had mine done and the car still runs fine.
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 11:32 AM
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NKG engineers their plugs to minimize or even eliminate indexing requirements. It's all about the shape and size of the electrode band. But I agree with you, never ran into "issues" when over/under torquing any plug by a couple of newton meters in the days before I used a proper torque wrench for plugs.
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Old Jul 14, 2025 | 05:18 PM
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Indexing requires making a mark on the wrench that matches/corresponds to the direction of the electrode, just need to be sure the electrode is pointing in the right direction, I believe toward the center of the engine, but don't wuote me on that. It "should" be no problem, meaning the torque spec and direction of the electrode whould match perfectly. I've found a couple videos online demonstrating the technique, all on E63's at this point. I might take me a little longer to get it right, but I'll stop at 3 beers regardless

This reminds me of when I changed the head gasket on my MKIII Supra. It all looked really difficult, but in the end it came down to time, patience, and attention to detail...but no real "qualifications". It was much easier and more straightforward than tuning a four barrel carbeurator. I guess the only way to know for sure is to do it and find out.
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Old Jul 14, 2025 | 08:52 PM
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Indeed. Would have thought that spark plug manufacturers would wind the threads in such a way that application specific plugs would be indexed correctly when torqued to spec...? Or after three beers, whichever comes first.
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Old Jul 15, 2025 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Digital Oxygen
Indeed. Would have thought that spark plug manufacturers would wind the threads in such a way that application specific plugs would be indexed correctly when torqued to spec...? Or after three beers, whichever comes first.
I watched a few videos where guys were indexing plugs; they were able to achieve the proper angle and torque by changing or grinding down the washers when necessary. But for the M77, it looked pretty straghtforward, proper indexing happened without the need to fuss with the washers.
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Old Jul 15, 2025 | 11:28 AM
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From what I've read, guys who index non-indexed plugs mark the plug's top to show where the electrode is attached, then install and torque the plug to spec, and observe where the mark is. Then they remove the plug, and add a washer whose thickness compensates for the angular offset they need. If the spark plug's thread pitch is 1.25 mm, and the plug is 180 degrees off, then a washer whose thickness is half the thread pitch (0.62mm) will orient the plug correctly. Since there is usually at least 90 degrees of latitude for indexing, the washer thickness doesn't need to be precise. So a box of washers with various thicknesses in 0.20mm increments should index any plug without grinding. There is of course controversy about the effect of raising the plug's vertical position within the cylinder by as much as 1mm.

Attached is a copy of the MB technical note (which has been previously posted on the forum) on the topic of indexing.


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Old Jul 15, 2025 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Digital Oxygen
Do your own maintenance? Not talking about engine or tranny R&Rs, but merely oil changes, plugs, brakes, minor repairs, etc. You know, the more... basic stuff.

I do...two E's, one GLS, one C and a Sprinter 3500....oh, and some others.
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 02:24 AM
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I did oil changes on my SLK320. Brakes. Some other odds and ends. A lot more on some older cars I had. Alternators. Water pumps. Plugs. Plug wires. Valve gap adjustment.
I had a 351 in a boat I had, and did motor alignment, valve covers, carburetor.
With my SL, I haven’t done much. I am kind of afraid of it, and it’s still under warranty. Also, getting to a place where I don’t really want to or enjoy the grease monkey ordeal.
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by carlosinseattle
I watched a few videos where guys were indexing plugs; they were able to achieve the proper angle and torque by changing or grinding down the washers when necessary. But for the M77, it looked pretty straghtforward, proper indexing happened without the need to fuss with the washers.
New plugs are designed to be properly indexed when the correct plug is used, and is tightened to spec. And even if they aren't, I think most driver's butt dyno would never feel the minuscule drop in power, should the incorrect pug be used. And let's be honest, some of of these "content creators" product "content" just to hear themselves talk about things that aren't really an issue for most drivers.

Originally Posted by streborx
From what I've read, guys who index non-indexed plugs mark the plug's top to show where the electrode is attached, then install and torque the plug to spec, and observe where the mark is. Then they remove the plug, and add a washer whose thickness compensates for the angular offset they need. If the spark plug's thread pitch is 1.25 mm, and the plug is 180 degrees off, then a washer whose thickness is half the thread pitch (0.62mm) will orient the plug correctly. Since there is usually at least 90 degrees of latitude for indexing, the washer thickness doesn't need to be precise. So a box of washers with various thicknesses in 0.20mm increments should index any plug without grinding. There is of course controversy about the effect of raising the plug's vertical position within the cylinder by as much as 1mm.

Attached is a copy of the MB technical note (which has been previously posted on the forum) on the topic of indexing.
I can see how that would be helpful and even necessary on DI engines. Still maintain that the correct plug for the application eliminates the need for indexing in most cases. But you know... sometimes that enthusiast mechanic needs to polish off those "old" beers left over from the Superbowl, so... indexing it is.

Originally Posted by OldManAndHisCar
I do...two E's, one GLS, one C and a Sprinter 3500....oh, and some others.
Welcome to the "WTF was I thinking" club. At least I'm getting to where I'm using one oil type/weight for the engines in my vehicles. But that's another can of worms.

Originally Posted by MB2timer
I did oil changes on my SLK320. Brakes. Some other odds and ends. A lot more on some older cars I had. Alternators. Water pumps. Plugs. Plug wires. Valve gap adjustment.
I had a 351 in a boat I had, and did motor alignment, valve covers, carburetor.
With my SL, I haven’t done much. I am kind of afraid of it, and it’s still under warranty. Also, getting to a place where I don’t really want to or enjoy the grease monkey ordeal.
Don't blame you. Aside from age, it's becoming progressively difficult for the average enthusiast mechanic to work on their newer car(s). Specialty tools, software, packed engine compartments... the old school "shade tree mechanic" is pretty much a thing of the past. I'm like you, on vehicles with a warranty, I just change the oils I can get to, (engine, differentials, transfer case), and brakes. It's 2.5 hours one way to the closest dealer, so even an oil change would be a whole day affair.
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 08:56 AM
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It's becoming increasingly difficult to DIY stuff. My biggest annoyance are the owners manuals that emphasize the importance of maintenance and fluid specs, but provide no information other than "use the correct measure of a MB approved fluid". Digging into the MB fluids website helps, but some info (such as brake fluid brands) is missing.
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 09:09 AM
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Owner's manuals from 50 and 60 years ago showed you how to adjust the valves. Now, they warn the owners against drinking the battery acid.
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Digital Oxygen
Owner's manuals from 50 and 60 years ago showed you how to adjust the valves. Now, they warn the owners against drinking the battery acid.
This is not an exaggeration -- there are several places in my OM where both opposing pages have nothing but Cautions, Warnings and Notices. My OM also warns about the potential of burning ones self on the hot engine while trying to get a drink of battery acid.
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