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Your car looks amazing with the black out package, and I agree about doing the brake calipers...that was the first mod we did with our C class, but unfortunately the rear calipers are not really much to look at, so I would caution doing the Calipers in a bright finish, but as a suggestion I would recommend maybe doing the calipers in a Gloss black, and then maybe do the Mercedes-Benz decal on the front caliper in a bright Green, yellow, or Orange.
Just suggesting this because the rear calipers are nothing really to look at, and if you end up doing the whole caliper...those rears might really pop behind the black wheels and you probably won't end up liking that look.
Just something to think about. Not sure if you already have someone to do the job, but if not we can accommodate getting them done for you.
Jim
i agree the rear sucks! the front would look great.. i like that idea gloss black with a color writing as well it was an option i was debating, thanks for the advice and compliments
I put it on the trunk because...it's an AMG trunk, haha ha. Notice I didn't put C63 on it.
"Less than the scum of the earth". Geez. Is it necessary to be so extreme? I put it on because I like the logo. I didn't even know what the f*** AMG mean before I bought the car. So, maybe it's a little out of whack. Maybe it's not standard. But so what? it doesn't harm anyone. But somehow that makes me the scum of the earth? I'm glad your a car enthusiast, and not a radical muslim.
huyuci, whats with all the Muslim rhetoric and references? Are you also a religious bigot?
I just got back Saturday from two weeks in Ho Chi Minh City, Singapore and KL. I took a couple photo of cars real cars, but I swear you would think there is such a thing of a C Class AMG. Those guys in Asia badge the **** out of their cars. I go back in March will take some photos.
was hard to get real definitive answers on exact offsets and things that we need for our w205's due to the big brakes and clearance etc.
after talking to a few engineer and the help of rim/tire shop that always help me (ATC) we finally got the right fit and tires in.. apparently you cant rely solely on offsets as each rim company has different back plate spacing.
sorry for the dirty pictures. i was excited to share the information as it may help you all and the weather has sucked raining on and off. ill get clean shots soon
(ALSO: my stock staggered 19" AMG factory black rims multispoke rims and pirelli runflat tires are for sale. only about 200 miles on the tires, they are flawless and perfect condition)
here are my specs:
suspension: 1.2" H&R drop front and back (very easy install i have a write up on the forums if you want help with that)
Rims: 20" savini bm-12 rims staggered (20x8.5 and 20x10)
Offsets: Front ET45 Rear ET47 (originally ordered 50mm as they said that they would fit but engineers said we needed 47mm and 50 wouldn't work, i found this odd because most you on the forum have 52 or 55mm ET rears. but the back spacing i guess was the changing factor)
Tires: nitto555 235/35/20 and 275/30/20
(i went with these tires because most shops wont run the 285/25/20. its too thin and "wont support the weight of the car properly". just what i was told so i went a little thicker and couldnt be happier)
Beautiful car! I wanted to comment re: wheel offset and backspacing since it confuses a lot of people. Both terms measure the same thing and are interchangeable. They refer to the position of the hub mounting surface (back side of the wheel at the hub). There are two methodologies of measurement, but both measure the same thing. It took me awhile to get it.
"Back Spacing" measures the position of the hub mounting surface relative to the rear edge of the wheel and is expressed in inches.
"Offset" measures the position of the hub mounting surface relative to the theoretical center line of the wheel, expressed in mm. So an 8" wide wheel would have a theoretical center line dead center at 4".
An 8" wide wheel with a zero offset (back plate at mid line) would have a 4" back space.
The deviation (or "offset") between the actual hub mounting surface and the centerline is expressed in mm. A 44mm offset wheel has a hub mounting surface (backplate) 44mm forward (toward the outer wheel lip) of dead center.
The lower the offset, the closer to the actual centerline the hub mounting surface is, causing the wheel to protrude outward toward the fender lip. A higher offset creates more space behind the wheel for the brakes, and increasing the offset causes the wheel to "suck in" toward the strut.
Short version, as long as you're working against the OEM offset, all you need to know is the replacement wheel's offset and you're good to go. If you're going to a wider wheel, an inch of extra width moves everything a half inch further (13mm) inside and out, so if you're also dropping offset make sure you have that extra clearance at the inside of the fender lip, and on the inside at the strut. Some shops will go to a rim that is too wide, and then compensate by reducing the tire treadblock width. It gives the look that the tire is being stretched away from the bead (which it is.) In addition to exposing more of the wheel to curb damage, it's not great for the sidewalls themselves. The "right" combo gives you a flush, vertical sidewall profile.
As you reduce offset you change the suspension geometry, putting more strain on bearings and everything else. As little deviation as possible is my motto, especially up front if you want to avoid vibration in the steering wheel and premature bearing wear. Rears I've gone as far as 20mm lower without incident. Fronts I usually leave at the factory offset. 5mm makes little visual impact, 10mm + and I run into trouble. Obviously, how low you go is limited by how much room you have, on the stock wheels, between the outer edge of the wheel and the inner lip of the fender. Bear in mind the rear will squat under load (or acceleration), causing the camber to change and the tops of the wheels to be pulled inward, so there is some play there, but its best to leave some wiggle room. Up front, you need space for lock to lock turns of the steering wheel as well as the fender and strut clearance.
To determine how much you can safely reduce offset, measure the clearance between the tire sidewall and the inside fender lip. Leave a little space to spare for suspension travel. Convert that to MM. That's how much lower in offset you can go. So if OEM is a 45mm offset, and you have one inch of room:
1" = 25MM. You could go down from your 45mm offset by 25mm, to a 20mm offset (if the widths stay the same). If you go wider in the wheel and tire, back the extra width out of the "room" you have now.
On tires you can run any sidewall ratio provided the tire has the correct load rating. A tire with an "XL" (extra load) rating is good for any sidewall ratio the manufacturer sells. Obviously, when you reduce the sidewall height you remove cushion in the suspension, so too much of that and the ride will suffer. Put that on top of a drop, which also reduces cushion in the suspension plus lower offsets and the the risk of ride issues/vibrations increase exponentially.
A Plus One or Plus Two fitment is intended to keep the rolling diameter (the total diameter of wheel and tire) the same as OEM. Ideally you just swap an inch of sidewall for an inch more rim (Plus 1) or two inches (Plus 2) and keep the actual rolling diameter stock. Variation in rolling diameter greater then 3% is not recommended, as it alters the speedometer reading and can lead to premature brake wear.
Sidewall height is not a fixed size. For example, two 20" tires can have the same sidewall ratio (30 for example) and have completely different sidewall heights. In a tire size, the first number represents the width of the tread block, and the second represents the sidewall height as a percentage of the tread block width. So a 275/30/20... 30% of 275mm = 82.5mm sidewall height. 245/30/20... 30% of 245 =73.5mm sidewall. Multiply the difference x 2 to get the affect on rolling diameter over all.
Or, go to www.1010tire.com. They have a calculator that lets you enter the OEM wheel size and then play with various rim size/tire size combos to get one that stays within that "safe" 3% variance in rolling diameter.
Not 100% certain on this but I don't believe the C450 got the AMG Big Brake package. That might just be the C63, but not sure.
Sermon concluded!
Last edited by Mike5215; Dec 17, 2015 at 01:32 PM.
How's the camber after lowering and after getting the wheel alignment is it able to go back to factory specs
It's weird my alignment didn't change at all still drives straight as an arrow. Didn't have any camber adjustments either. Maybe this is due to not disassembling the spindle or anything. On my 3series I had to take that apart and it affected the alignment.
Finally started modding with some small accenting paint. I'll put more pictures up in the morning. Also going to pick up a Mercedes logo sticker tomorrow for the calipers
Finally started modding with some small accenting paint. I'll put more pictures up in the morning. Also going to pick up a Mercedes logo sticker tomorrow for the calipers
More caliper pics!! How did you do them? Could you provide the link for the Benz logos you ordered
More caliper pics!! How did you do them? Could you provide the link for the Benz logos you ordered
I don't have the ***** to lift my car myself and use high heat paint haha I went to a local paint/dip shop to have them done. The guy's gonna give me a set of the stickers. He says he has them in sheets and just needs to cut them. I'm sure you can find them on ebay for pretty cheap
Hey guys (and gals), I'm considering replacing my c300 grille with a c450 (diamond block) one. Does anyone know a legit place I can get one? I see a bunch on ebay, but I don't know which seller to buy from, or if you guys know a better site.
All I've done w/my car so far is add the RW Carbon trunk lip and plastidipped my C400 & 4Matic badges. I've been considering the black diamond grille, but I'll probably hold off until 'modding season' this spring when I get new tires, AMR Flash (or something comparable) and possibly black vinyl wrap the chrome bits I dislike so, so much.
What a retard example. The 2 have nothing in common and they're different brands while the C63 and C300 are from the same brand while sharing 90% of the style. You make a really good defense lawyer.
Not really fair on those people who are retarded... all I have met weren't inherently dicks...
I'm loving the black rocker extensions! I can't understand why the 450 night package doesn't black these out but the 63 does. When my car comes in, it's going from the dealer, to the tinter, to my wrap guy. I just don"t know if the chrome trunk bar should be black, or maybe just a clear satin (to match the front grill crossbar), or even body color (diamond silver).
Photoshops below:
BTW, do you have anymore caliper pics? I'm curious to see how the rears look painted.
I'm loving the black rocker extensions! I can't understand why the 450 night package doesn't black these out but the 63 does. When my car comes in, it's going from the dealer, to the tinter, to my wrap guy. I just don"t know if the chrome trunk bar should be black, or maybe just a clear satin (to match the front grill crossbar), or even body color (diamond silver).
I'm also having a hard time deciding whether to black out the chrome on the trunk.
[QUOTE=alexasa;6732586]What's proper spacer size for the 19 inch wheel option on the c450?
If you are looking to space out the factory wheel set up, I am running on my car with the factory 19 inch wheels a 12mm kit up front with the 7.5x19 and the rear a 15mm with the 8.5x19. Of course with properly matched lug bolts.
Feel free to PM me if you want to order this set up, I can also supply the spacers anodized in black with black bolts.
BTW, do you have anymore caliper pics? I'm curious to see how the rears look painted.[/QUOTE]
When I did the calipers on my C300 Sport I was concerned about the color being too flashy because the rear calipers are really nothing to look at, so I did not want to draw too much attention to those, so I did them in a dark Anthracite and we labeled them with our company name and logo.
The process I did on mine was done using an epoxy primer, than the paint color and then we applied the decal and then a full clear coat sealing the decal.
A year later and they still look like the day they were done! If you plan to do your calipers, be sure to clear coat the decal so you avoid the risk of the sticker peeling or having corners lift. The pictures attached show the front and back sides of the calipers during the process. Hope this info helps!
Anybody do an amber headlight delete?[/QUOTE]
id love to get rid of that nasty amber yellow in the headlights as well. can't stand them. but looks like its not removable really. baking these expensive headlights isn't an option for me haha!
Silly because I'm pretty sure you're off by an order of magnitude with your 5cm estimate. I haven't done thermal expansion calculations since college but your numbers just don't jibe with my experience. I think maybe you overlooked the arithmetic error because you were too busy arguing with that other guy.
If an exhaust pipe is an arbitrary length of 80'' (just for the sake of argument, I have no idea how long a W205 exhaust line is) then:
the change in length (L) is
L=(80")(6.7e-6the temp expansion coefficient of steel(T1-T0)
In general ambient temp will be somewhere from 30-80deg F and running temp at the exhaust manifold should be below 260F. So using a generous delta of T0=30F and T1=260F we get:
L=(80in)(6.7e-6in/inF)(260-30)
In this case L = .12in
This means we can expect the exhaust line of 80in to increase in length by .12in to a total length of 80.12in.
That's quite a bit shorter than 5cm, as 5cm = 1.9685in which is 16 times greater than what would be produced by thermal expansion of steel under normal operating temps of a passenger vehicle, even an AMG vehicle
id love to get rid of that nasty amber yellow in the headlights as well. can't stand them. but looks like its not removable really. baking these expensive headlights isn't an option for me haha!
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