Modified W205s
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From: NYC
2016 c450 / 2016 VW Jetta 1.8t / 2006 Wrangler X
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c300
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From: NYC
2016 c450 / 2016 VW Jetta 1.8t / 2006 Wrangler X
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c300
Same concept of using the knifeless tape. You run the tape along the edge where you will cut the vinyl, in this case along the edge of the amber. Apply the vinyl, then pull the tape to cut. No need to open the headlights.
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c300
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c300
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 316
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From: Orange County
C450
True. Some focus their time and effort on cosmetic changes, some focus on making their cars loud, some others even focus on performance.
Sometimes they remove amber until the OEM tries to appease them by providing clear lenses, then they focus on getting amber lights in place of the ugly clear ones. It's hard to keep up with which ones are in vogue.
Sometimes they remove amber until the OEM tries to appease them by providing clear lenses, then they focus on getting amber lights in place of the ugly clear ones. It's hard to keep up with which ones are in vogue.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 472
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From: Mansfield, TX
Current :2018 E63S and a 2018 GLE 63S . Prior, CLA 250, C450, 2017 AMG C63S
Beautiful car! I wanted to comment re: wheel offset and backspacing since it confuses a lot of people. Both terms measure the same thing and are interchangeable. They refer to the position of the hub mounting surface (back side of the wheel at the hub). There are two methodologies of measurement, but both measure the same thing. It took me awhile to get it.
"Back Spacing" measures the position of the hub mounting surface relative to the rear edge of the wheel and is expressed in inches.
"Offset" measures the position of the hub mounting surface relative to the theoretical center line of the wheel, expressed in mm. So an 8" wide wheel would have a theoretical center line dead center at 4".
An 8" wide wheel with a zero offset (back plate at mid line) would have a 4" back space.
The deviation (or "offset") between the actual hub mounting surface and the centerline is expressed in mm. A 44mm offset wheel has a hub mounting surface (backplate) 44mm forward (toward the outer wheel lip) of dead center.
The lower the offset, the closer to the actual centerline the hub mounting surface is, causing the wheel to protrude outward toward the fender lip. A higher offset creates more space behind the wheel for the brakes, and increasing the offset causes the wheel to "suck in" toward the strut.
Short version, as long as you're working against the OEM offset, all you need to know is the replacement wheel's offset and you're good to go. If you're going to a wider wheel, an inch of extra width moves everything a half inch further (13mm) inside and out, so if you're also dropping offset make sure you have that extra clearance at the inside of the fender lip, and on the inside at the strut. Some shops will go to a rim that is too wide, and then compensate by reducing the tire treadblock width. It gives the look that the tire is being stretched away from the bead (which it is.) In addition to exposing more of the wheel to curb damage, it's not great for the sidewalls themselves. The "right" combo gives you a flush, vertical sidewall profile.
As you reduce offset you change the suspension geometry, putting more strain on bearings and everything else. As little deviation as possible is my motto, especially up front if you want to avoid vibration in the steering wheel and premature bearing wear. Rears I've gone as far as 20mm lower without incident. Fronts I usually leave at the factory offset. 5mm makes little visual impact, 10mm + and I run into trouble. Obviously, how low you go is limited by how much room you have, on the stock wheels, between the outer edge of the wheel and the inner lip of the fender. Bear in mind the rear will squat under load (or acceleration), causing the camber to change and the tops of the wheels to be pulled inward, so there is some play there, but its best to leave some wiggle room. Up front, you need space for lock to lock turns of the steering wheel as well as the fender and strut clearance.
To determine how much you can safely reduce offset, measure the clearance between the tire sidewall and the inside fender lip. Leave a little space to spare for suspension travel. Convert that to MM. That's how much lower in offset you can go. So if OEM is a 45mm offset, and you have one inch of room:
1" = 25MM. You could go down from your 45mm offset by 25mm, to a 20mm offset (if the widths stay the same). If you go wider in the wheel and tire, back the extra width out of the "room" you have now.
On tires you can run any sidewall ratio provided the tire has the correct load rating. A tire with an "XL" (extra load) rating is good for any sidewall ratio the manufacturer sells. Obviously, when you reduce the sidewall height you remove cushion in the suspension, so too much of that and the ride will suffer. Put that on top of a drop, which also reduces cushion in the suspension plus lower offsets and the the risk of ride issues/vibrations increase exponentially.
A Plus One or Plus Two fitment is intended to keep the rolling diameter (the total diameter of wheel and tire) the same as OEM. Ideally you just swap an inch of sidewall for an inch more rim (Plus 1) or two inches (Plus 2) and keep the actual rolling diameter stock. Variation in rolling diameter greater then 3% is not recommended, as it alters the speedometer reading and can lead to premature brake wear.
Sidewall height is not a fixed size. For example, two 20" tires can have the same sidewall ratio (30 for example) and have completely different sidewall heights. In a tire size, the first number represents the width of the tread block, and the second represents the sidewall height as a percentage of the tread block width. So a 275/30/20... 30% of 275mm = 82.5mm sidewall height. 245/30/20... 30% of 245 =73.5mm sidewall. Multiply the difference x 2 to get the affect on rolling diameter over all.
Or, go to www.1010tire.com. They have a calculator that lets you enter the OEM wheel size and then play with various rim size/tire size combos to get one that stays within that "safe" 3% variance in rolling diameter.
Not 100% certain on this but I don't believe the C450 got the AMG Big Brake package. That might just be the C63, but not sure.
Sermon concluded!
"Back Spacing" measures the position of the hub mounting surface relative to the rear edge of the wheel and is expressed in inches.
"Offset" measures the position of the hub mounting surface relative to the theoretical center line of the wheel, expressed in mm. So an 8" wide wheel would have a theoretical center line dead center at 4".
An 8" wide wheel with a zero offset (back plate at mid line) would have a 4" back space.
The deviation (or "offset") between the actual hub mounting surface and the centerline is expressed in mm. A 44mm offset wheel has a hub mounting surface (backplate) 44mm forward (toward the outer wheel lip) of dead center.
The lower the offset, the closer to the actual centerline the hub mounting surface is, causing the wheel to protrude outward toward the fender lip. A higher offset creates more space behind the wheel for the brakes, and increasing the offset causes the wheel to "suck in" toward the strut.
Short version, as long as you're working against the OEM offset, all you need to know is the replacement wheel's offset and you're good to go. If you're going to a wider wheel, an inch of extra width moves everything a half inch further (13mm) inside and out, so if you're also dropping offset make sure you have that extra clearance at the inside of the fender lip, and on the inside at the strut. Some shops will go to a rim that is too wide, and then compensate by reducing the tire treadblock width. It gives the look that the tire is being stretched away from the bead (which it is.) In addition to exposing more of the wheel to curb damage, it's not great for the sidewalls themselves. The "right" combo gives you a flush, vertical sidewall profile.
As you reduce offset you change the suspension geometry, putting more strain on bearings and everything else. As little deviation as possible is my motto, especially up front if you want to avoid vibration in the steering wheel and premature bearing wear. Rears I've gone as far as 20mm lower without incident. Fronts I usually leave at the factory offset. 5mm makes little visual impact, 10mm + and I run into trouble. Obviously, how low you go is limited by how much room you have, on the stock wheels, between the outer edge of the wheel and the inner lip of the fender. Bear in mind the rear will squat under load (or acceleration), causing the camber to change and the tops of the wheels to be pulled inward, so there is some play there, but its best to leave some wiggle room. Up front, you need space for lock to lock turns of the steering wheel as well as the fender and strut clearance.
To determine how much you can safely reduce offset, measure the clearance between the tire sidewall and the inside fender lip. Leave a little space to spare for suspension travel. Convert that to MM. That's how much lower in offset you can go. So if OEM is a 45mm offset, and you have one inch of room:
1" = 25MM. You could go down from your 45mm offset by 25mm, to a 20mm offset (if the widths stay the same). If you go wider in the wheel and tire, back the extra width out of the "room" you have now.
On tires you can run any sidewall ratio provided the tire has the correct load rating. A tire with an "XL" (extra load) rating is good for any sidewall ratio the manufacturer sells. Obviously, when you reduce the sidewall height you remove cushion in the suspension, so too much of that and the ride will suffer. Put that on top of a drop, which also reduces cushion in the suspension plus lower offsets and the the risk of ride issues/vibrations increase exponentially.
A Plus One or Plus Two fitment is intended to keep the rolling diameter (the total diameter of wheel and tire) the same as OEM. Ideally you just swap an inch of sidewall for an inch more rim (Plus 1) or two inches (Plus 2) and keep the actual rolling diameter stock. Variation in rolling diameter greater then 3% is not recommended, as it alters the speedometer reading and can lead to premature brake wear.
Sidewall height is not a fixed size. For example, two 20" tires can have the same sidewall ratio (30 for example) and have completely different sidewall heights. In a tire size, the first number represents the width of the tread block, and the second represents the sidewall height as a percentage of the tread block width. So a 275/30/20... 30% of 275mm = 82.5mm sidewall height. 245/30/20... 30% of 245 =73.5mm sidewall. Multiply the difference x 2 to get the affect on rolling diameter over all.
Or, go to www.1010tire.com. They have a calculator that lets you enter the OEM wheel size and then play with various rim size/tire size combos to get one that stays within that "safe" 3% variance in rolling diameter.
Not 100% certain on this but I don't believe the C450 got the AMG Big Brake package. That might just be the C63, but not sure.
Sermon concluded!
Would you suggest lowering the vehicle first and then going to the wheel shop to let them test fit wheels/tires?
My H&R springs arrived, however, I was going to have my wheels/tires installed first, however, based on your outstanding sermon, it seems as though I should have my C450 lowered first.
Please advise.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
2016 C300 sport 4matic
not to be off badge and outside mods topic, (sorry ) but on the topic of modifying a W205 engine, has anyone heard of these guys? the price is right, and the gains are impressive. just wondering about reliability, warranty, etc. anyone?
http://www.racechip.com/chiptuning/m...80kw/index.php
http://www.racechip.com/chiptuning/m...80kw/index.php
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
From: Jakarta, Indonesia
X253, F25
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...rts-grill.html
Bram
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 505
Likes: 58
From: Gold Coast, Oz.
C300 S205 AMG, GLA 45 AMG
I got the Race chip ultimate, installed in C250 m274, and it has constantly caused overboost cut outs at stock D1 (as delivered) and even at B1... (Lowest it will go).
Engine is permanently running BP ULTIMATE 98...
Only other mod having been a DV+.
It's gone back to Racechip to mess about with...
Car runs fine without it..
Benefits was slightly improved torque.. But not night and day noticeable.
It certainly isn't delivering the claimed possible max.. Maybe 10-15% more maximum...
In its previous guide or regular cut outs it's not worth a cent.....
Yours results may vary...
Engine is permanently running BP ULTIMATE 98...
Only other mod having been a DV+.
It's gone back to Racechip to mess about with...
Car runs fine without it..
Benefits was slightly improved torque.. But not night and day noticeable.
It certainly isn't delivering the claimed possible max.. Maybe 10-15% more maximum...
In its previous guide or regular cut outs it's not worth a cent.....
Yours results may vary...
Last edited by Shadwell; Mar 27, 2016 at 11:54 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 110
From: BNE, Australia
W205 C250BT
not to be off badge and outside mods topic, (sorry ) but on the topic of modifying a W205 engine, has anyone heard of these guys? the price is right, and the gains are impressive. just wondering about reliability, warranty, etc. anyone?
http://www.racechip.com/chiptuning/m...80kw/index.php
http://www.racechip.com/chiptuning/m...80kw/index.php
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...0-bluetec.html
Last edited by DBOC205; Mar 28, 2016 at 12:11 AM.
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 110
From: BNE, Australia
W205 C250BT
