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Hello Long time watcher, new member.
I have a 03 CL 600 That has the Famous Radiator Inlet Pipe Tank crack.
I have the new rad, and am working on getting the old out.
But i don't think i can get it out with out removing the top rad support?
Looks like i have 2 or 3 coolers in front of the rad and the radar head.
If i have to remove the radiator support i don't know what i will do.
Hoping some one knows the trick, i don't have a week to remove the front end to get the Radiator Out!
Haven't done one on a 215 with the v12 yet, but on most of them yes, you unbolt the upper part of the radiator support and it comes up, then the radiator comes up out of the group.
I can look up the exact procedure tomorrow but it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
Thanks
I was hoping i don't have to remove top rad support.
The support runs the full front end and goes back under the head lights and i think to the Aluminum fenders.
I don't know what i will do huge job!!!
I did it but really can't recall
but start with this then you'll see by yourself
I remember that it looked like you have to remove the whole front but that's not the case
there is just one piece in the top of the radiation that unbolts separate from all the rest
You might have to remove the bumper, really, I don't remember
That's just the fan, the radiator is slightly more involved.
lol I know
but as I said, I did mine, and the fan is half the way
once you remove the fan you see how to remove the radiator by itself
really bad that I can't recall, well I did so much on my car, the baby is brand new now
Thank You Guys
This is the link that gave me the courage to start this job. https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...l500-s500.html.
Very good work and very detailed instructions , but not for the TT Turbo V12.
Working in the 215 v12 Twin Turbo is akin to the Space Shuttle one little mistake can and vill bring the whole ship down!
My car seams to have something holding the Radiator to all the accessory coolers?
I have 2 nubs on the Front of the new Radiator about half way down may be some hidden screws go in to attach to?
Do not want to brake Ac Condenser or Oil coolers.
Any Ideas?
But owning and working on my cl 600 2 Turbo is never easy and all always pricey.
After climbing in and under, fiber optic camera, and hands of a 5th grader.
The Radiator has 2 additional bolts going through the accessorys in the front of it.
Then there is the ac lines connected on the bottom left.
And the 12v IC pump on the right.
Then i discoverer a second F 1 type of radiator in right wheel well.
After all i don't think it will come out with out removing the whole rad support. I am a shade tree mechanic, and a midnight auto body man not a good combo...
I don't know what to do looked everywhere for info and cant find anything on V12 TT.
Need Help
one think I recall 100% is that the piece with the mobil1 sticker DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED
the radiator comes out in direction of the engine
and yes you have to detach the two lower left oil lines and the two bolts
but, look at your replacement radiator, you see where they are
Yes
A 430 and a 500 and normal aspirated 600 are a world apart from a 600 TT or 65!
I cant do this like the old CHILTON MANUAL SAY replace in the revere of removal.
Thanks
I think i will let this one soak before it bites me in my ***!!!!
Thanks Guys
Looks like i am stuck.
I will not can not take off the FRONT END of my car.
I remember the good old days of changing a radiator in a hour.
Rob
Removing the W220 radiator is surprisingly difficult. Here's how I did it:
Before doing anything, inspect the new radiator and make sure it’s to spec; this is really important.
Make sure the outside diameter of the hose receptacle is 41.0 to 41.5 mm.
Make sure you have threaded receptacles for the fan cowl, IC HE, IC pump, AC HE and AC pipe fittings.
When you remove the old radiator, some of those fittings may be rusted up – test them first, and figure out what you’re going to do.
There are rubber & plastic mouldings all around the radiator to control airflow, and they take time to remove & refit.
Establish whether your header tank fills to the RH header tank, or the bottom hose.
The new radiator may have a ¾” filler hose receptacle that may need to be blocked off – which can make fitting more difficult.
Get yourself some good lights, and get to work….
Lift the front end of the car onto stands and remove the top and bottom covers.
Loosen the header tank cap and drain the cooling system. This takes a while.
Remove the thermostat/top hose housing and disconnect all the hoses (expect spills).
Disconnect the electric fan.
Remove the small clips that hold the top of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
Remove the two clips that hold the bottom of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
Undo the two transmission oil cooler pipes, catch a bit of oil, and cover the pipe ends.
Undo the two nuts at the top corners of the fan cowl.
Pull the fan assy up an inch, tilt it back and pull it out upwards (pushing the IC pipes out of the way).
From underneath, undo the IC pump and its bracket from the radiator.
Still underneath, remove the bolt that holds the aircon pipes bracket to the radiator.
Unbolt the top L&R of the aircon condenser from the radiator.
Unbolt the IC heat exchanger from the radiator, and support it.
Undo the plastic clamps that hold the top of the radiator.
Push the top of the radiator back and remove the bleed pipe.
Remove the plastic brackets that are clipped half-way up each side of the radiator.
Lift the radiator out.
Lifting the radiator out is unsurprisingly more difficult than it sounds, as it’s a tight fit width-wise between the chassis rails. On my car there were three steering and suspension oil coolant pipes that squeeze through an aperture alongside the radiator. The aperture is sealed-up with a triangular rubber grommet, which best pulled forwards out of the way of the radiator. The pipes then need to be manipulated so they’re flat against the chassis rail, and give as much room for the radiator as possible.
Now is the time to replace the anti-freeze, the thermostat, the thermostat housing o-ring, the hose connector o-rings, and the hoses and aux drive belt if you feel like it.
Refitting is the reverse of removal, but:
Check that the top hose assy fits both radiator receptacles before fitting the radiator (ask me why).
Tape sheets of corrugated card to the front and rear facesof the new radiator, otherwise you’ll make a horrible mess during fitting.
Make sure the aircon condenser is in about the right position before you push the new radiator forwards into position.
Make sure all the small hoses and cables are tied away from the moving parts, like the ancillaries and the aux belt.
The cooling system bleeds itself, but only when the engine is fully warmed-up, and you need patience.
Now That Sir is Word. Should be a sticky for this car...
Thank u very much, That plastic / rubber air foils was buggering it up.
After removing the power steering cooling hoses that go through the side of radiator. I think i can get it out the top.
I never owned a space ship but, i don't think working on one can be harder then a Mercedes Benz v12 tt
Robert
I'm sure there's more than one way to skin that cat but when I did mine, I removed the front bumper to be able to remove the headlamps and so on. It was a lot to do and time consuming but none of it was that difficult.
03-21-2017, 09:12 PM
