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You need a good vacuum pump
find that on second hand site or ebay
I used 5 water filter housings I connected because those don't implode with vacuum and I bleed by 5 liter cans
you can use any of course
You have to cycle at least 25 liters of coolant to get it bubble free if you have a upgraded pump.
If you have a AMG upgrade coolant tank, unplug the tank, fill it from the back (it's impossible to fill it up completely from the top)
then plug it back in.
(adapters Idea is not mine, I don't recall who but it is here somewhere)
if anyone knows where I can get a plexi tank supporting vacuum like this one below but not with input from under
10-20 L / 2.5 - 5 gallon
so I can replace my 5 boring to empty filter housings
Thanks again Bro for that instruction how to do bleeding correctly.
I have some question that can be here for others:
1. Car must to be after ride or cold when doing that procedure ?
2. How long it take to bleed 5L of coolant with your pump ?
( I found it in web and it probably has efficiency about 31L per min )
3. Can you make quick instruction and tips how to do bleeding step by step ?
I gotta build myself one of these. The factory vacuum tool is too weak. I'm pretty sure I have an old A/C vacuum pump somewhere in my dad's garage anyway.
I gotta build myself one of these. The factory vacuum tool is too weak. I'm pretty sure I have an old A/C vacuum pump somewhere in my dad's garage anyway.
vacuum pumps are on ebay or other crap selling site used
I bought a used laboratory version for 20$
you can line up cheap filter housings like me or find a nice vacuum proof tank
for a good bleending you need to circle around 20L / 5 gallons coolant
so that is why I search a 5 gallon tank
no need to empty and release pressure 4 time before you finish
also, I connect a 100L air tank between the system to maintain good regular vacuum
I just saw on one photo that in your system vacum pump are not connected directly to tanks, so you have air tank between it.
It will also work correctly when vacum pump like on photo will connect directly to tanks ?
I just saw on one photo that in your system vacum pump are not connected directly to tanks, so you have air tank between it.
It will also work correctly when vacum pump like on photo will connect directly to tanks ?
I am asking for those when I turn on my vacum pump and my bleeding tool are the same like in this thread it is necessary to use aditional aircompressor to coolant refill tool or only vacum pump will draw the coolant ?
You cannot gravity fill these systems. They are an air lock nightmare.
I have a swirl pot that diverts 5% flow through from the top bleed valves at all times, this keeps air out of the system.
Yes and no, the intercooler has bottom inlet/outlet, so it can still get air in it. What it really needs is a bigger intercooler like the 279 unit Pmercury has fitted, with a port added on the top bleeding back to the coolant take. We used to do that in the Cobalt world to solve this issue. 1mm orifice restrictor in that bleed line, lets air come out constantly but doesn't allow enough coolant bypass to hurt efficiency.
I am asking for those when I turn on my vacum pump and my bleeding tool are the same like in this thread it is necessary to use aditional aircompressor to coolant refill tool or only vacum pump will draw the coolant ?
Sorry I don't quite understand.
The Mercedes way is:
Pull a vacuum on the system, flip valve and then vac full the system.
Once run, suck coolant from the intercooler bleed valves with a y pipe and a vacuum box until bubbles don't appear (approx 15 L)
I am asking for those when I turn on my vacum pump and my bleeding tool are the same like in this thread it is necessary to use aditional aircompressor to coolant refill tool or only vacum pump will draw the coolant ?
Yes and no, the intercooler has bottom inlet/outlet, so it can still get air in it. What it really needs is a bigger intercooler like the 279 unit Pmercury has fitted, with a port added on the top bleeding back to the coolant take. We used to do that in the Cobalt world to solve this issue. 1mm orifice restrictor in that bleed line, lets air come out constantly but doesn't allow enough coolant bypass to hurt efficiency.
The intercooler on my 221 has top inlet bottom outlet.
But basically same thing. Swirl pot works really well.
I am asking for those when I turn on my vacum pump and my bleeding tool are the same like in this thread it is necessary to use aditional aircompressor to coolant refill tool or only vacum pump will draw the coolant ?
no
vacuum pump pulls the coolant from fresh tank you placed on the tool on the refill cap
Vacuum pumps are the last resort for filling badly designed cooling systems like the V12TT, but they do work as long as you have a deep vacuum.
Unfortunately the cheap and common compressed air and piston vac pumps don't go deep enough.
How deep do you need to go? It depends on the ambient temperature, but typically 1kPa is adequate (one atmosphere is 101.325 kPa).
Single stage refrigeration vac pumps go well below that, and are reasonably cheap and readily available. They go down to about 5 or 10 Pa if I recall correctly.
Why 1kPa? Water boils at ambient temperature at that pressure, so whatever is left in the IC system will evaporate and fill the system with water vapour. That removes all the air, not just 99% of it. Therefore no more bubbles.
Guys maybe it will be smart to use Evans Cooling fluid.
It boiled in 180'C and there is no water in it.
That coolant are expensive but used in most famous cars and races on the world.
Guys maybe it will be smart to use Evans Cooling fluid.
It boiled in 180'C and there is no water in it.
That coolant are expensive but used in most famous cars and races on the world.
Colour me sceptical.
There's no explicit mention on their website of the specific heat capacity of their coolant, which makes me assume that it's not as high as water.
This all sounds like using 100% anti-freeze, which nobody recommends.
Vacuum pumps are the last resort for filling badly designed cooling systems like the V12TT, but they do work as long as you have a deep vacuum.
Unfortunately the cheap and common compressed air and piston vac pumps don't go deep enough.
How deep do you need to go? It depends on the ambient temperature, but typically 1kPa is adequate (one atmosphere is 101.325 kPa).
Single stage refrigeration vac pumps go well below that, and are reasonably cheap and readily available. They go down to about 5 or 10 Pa if I recall correctly.
Why 1kPa? Water boils at ambient temperature at that pressure, so whatever is left in the IC system will evaporate and fill the system with water vapour. That removes all the air, not just 99% of it. Therefore no more bubbles.
Nick
thx
very good comment, can you also show links to some of these, second hand or new ?
Guys maybe it will be smart to use Evans Cooling fluid.
It boiled in 180'C and there is no water in it.
That coolant are expensive but used in most famous cars and races on the world.
Vacuum pumps are the last resort for filling badly designed cooling systems like the V12TT, but they do work as long as you have a deep vacuum.
Unfortunately the cheap and common compressed air and piston vac pumps don't go deep enough.
How deep do you need to go? It depends on the ambient temperature, but typically 1kPa is adequate (one atmosphere is 101.325 kPa).
Single stage refrigeration vac pumps go well below that, and are reasonably cheap and readily available. They go down to about 5 or 10 Pa if I recall correctly.
Why 1kPa? Water boils at ambient temperature at that pressure, so whatever is left in the IC system will evaporate and fill the system with water vapour. That removes all the air, not just 99% of it. Therefore no more bubbles.
Nick
Nick, Just got this for a superfast bleeding tool V3
that should do the job