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Hoping you all are doing well. I own an E Class 2014 Model E250. Love this car!
I recently encountered an issue were my left driver side headlights do not work but the leds work and on the passenger side the leds dont work but the main headlamps work.
Can someone guide me through what could be the issue?
i have scanned it from my Autel scanner. This is the code i ger for the left driver side. If anyone knows what i should look for please do me know
Hoping you all are doing well. I own an E Class 2014 Model E250. Love this car!
I recently encountered an issue were my left driver side headlights do not work but the leds work and on the passenger side the leds dont work but the main headlamps work.
Can someone guide me through what could be the issue?
i have scanned it from my Autel scanner. This is the code i ger for the left driver side. If anyone knows what i should look for please do me know
I don't have all the exact answers to tell you how to solve your problem. Every clue you can get is helpful.
Some forum pillars with a long history of Mercedes knowledge can save you a good deal of research time.
points towards main feed issue undervolted module gone wild?
The 4 DTC's are really saying your headlight module saw low-power from Front-SAM that delivers circuit 30 through the main Prefuse relay K2.
tooo perfect gig !
From there... the way you car front lights are so assimetricaly perfect makes me think of a sort of low-power emergency mode to keep you on the road with the least power available - I don't know for fact this is an actual feature.
You can try resetting modules and swapping left to right to rule out harness vs. device fault.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 05-28-2021 at 09:38 PM.
Alee,
This light version of yours is the most complex of all the headlights option on a W212.
It is CAN operated, not the simple 12V analog signal. It "talks" to the height sensor at the front and the back and the camera at the front windshield.
If I remember correctly, one side is the boss and one side is kinda the slave.
If I may suggest, take it to an authorize dealer.
However, if you want to try to DIY it, how is your DC electrical skill and what electrical troubleshooting device you have at the moment ?
You also must have the EPC/WIS of at least 2018 version, better 2020 version.
The moment you ask : Also what does Terminal 30 means? Where is it located?
That shows you have near zero electrical knowledge on MB and that will be tough. Tough for you and whoever is trying to assist you.
There is a minimum knowledge and familiarity you must posses to work on this W212 electric wise.
So, are you game ?
Alee,
This light version of yours is the most complex of all the headlights option on a W212.
It is CAN operated, not the simple 12V analog signal. It "talks" to the height sensor at the front and the back and the camera at the front windshield.
If I remember correctly, one side is the boss and one side is kinda the slave.
If I may suggest, take it to an authorize dealer.
However, if you want to try to DIY it, how is your DC electrical skill and what electrical troubleshooting device you have at the moment ?
You also must have the EPC/WIS of at least 2018 version, better 2020 version.
The moment you ask : Also what does Terminal 30 means? Where is it located?
That shows you have near zero electrical knowledge on MB and that will be tough. Tough for you and whoever is trying to assist you.
There is a minimum knowledge and familiarity you must posses to work on this W212 electric wise.
So, are you game ?
Yes, i don’t have much Electrical knowledge but if you can guide me through i can definitely work on it and see things. I also have a friend who possesses all this knowledge but for that i need to know where should i start looking for.
Some basic things as well some complex which might fix the issue. Lights were working all fine happened all of a sudden so i’m hoping it’s not too complex but please do share what should i be doing since this is how i’ll learn as well and i’m more than willing to do it on my own because I know what the dealer will charge me for all this
Okey dokey.
Terminal 30 is a +12V power feed which is always ON/available. It is a German DIN thingy.
At the front electrical panel ( Front SAM ) at engine bay near brake booster which in schematic is called N10/1 .
At the trunk right side there is another electrical panel ( Rear SAM ) which is called N10/2.
SAM = Signal Acquisition Module https://www.mercedesmedic.com/mercedes-sam-module/
The documents I attached is for mainly for my W212.065 with M276.820 engine and I am on a right hand drive car , do take note. It is useable for you of course.
================= CHECK THESE FIRST ================= Headlights as per schematic get +12V power from Rear SAM.
Fuse no 74, 75 and 89* ( *if USA version )
Grounding points you need to check.
================================================== ===
Get some coffe and read them documents slowly.
The zip file. Convert the XPS to PDF if you wish.
Okey dokey.
Terminal 30 is a +12V power feed which is always ON/available. It is a German DIN thingy.
At the front electrical panel ( Front SAM ) at engine bay near brake booster which in schematic is called N10/1 .
At the trunk right side there is another electrical panel ( Rear SAM ) which is called N10/2.
SAM = Signal Acquisition Module https://www.mercedesmedic.com/mercedes-sam-module/
The documents I attached is for mainly for my W212.065 with M276.820 engine and I am on a right hand drive car , do take note. It is useable for you of course.
================= CHECK THESE FIRST ================= Headlights as per schematic get +12V power from Rear SAM.
Fuse no 74, 75 and 89* ( *if USA version )
Grounding points you need to check.
================================================== ===
Get some coffe and read them documents slowly.
The zip file. Convert the XPS to PDF if you wish.
Have fun.....
THANKYOU so much for the detailed answer i’ll look for it. My car is left hand drive Saudi Arabia Middle East Version & not the USA version.
Since it’s not the USA version are the fuses any different?
U can ignore fuse 89 then. But if I were you, its a 2 minute check, might as well check it too.
The key is first to read the schematic and know how the wirings are done/connected.
We hope it is as simple as bad connection for +12V fused and -12V ground or some other wires like the CAN having bad contact and not able to command certain function.
If the problem/s has anything to do with CAN system as in microprocessor issue or the driver of those LED's modules at the light itself, I can't help you.
Okey dokey.
Terminal 30 is a +12V power feed which is always ON/available. It is a German DIN thingy.
At the front electrical panel ( Front SAM ) at engine bay near brake booster which in schematic is called N10/1 .
At the trunk right side there is another electrical panel ( Rear SAM ) which is called N10/2.
SAM = Signal Acquisition Module https://www.mercedesmedic.com/mercedes-sam-module/
The documents I attached is for mainly for my W212.065 with M276.820 engine and I am on a right hand drive car , do take note. It is useable for you of course.
================= CHECK THESE FIRST ================= Headlights as per schematic get +12V power from Rear SAM.
Fuse no 74, 75 and 89* ( *if USA version )
Grounding points you need to check.
================================================== ===
Get some coffe and read them documents slowly.
The zip file. Convert the XPS to PDF if you wish.
Have fun.....
hi bro, hope you’re well again.
Can you tell me where is the light actuator motor? Which the code says that it’s blocked. Might wanna have a look at that too
The light actuator is one of the the shiny metallic module with cooling fins on the light itself.
The documents I gave you have all those.
Hope u solve the issue.
Good luck
also he did check the grounds the ones you mentioned above while i was on video call. They all seem to be in good shape. He couldn’t find anything wrong with it
Quick question. When it said that the voltage of terminal 30 is low you said it’s a german thing it’s always on. Isn’t there any fuses or relays for all of this? Or it’s just the 2 74/75 fuses for the headlamps. I was wondering if we could juice it up or maybe a relay needs a replacement or something.
i would be extremely thankful of you could maybe type it through what should i be looking for next step by step. Thankyou 🙏🙏
If your friend have not tested for power availability at the light connector itself, do it :
Test as follows : Unplug the light connector to do these measurements. Do not back-probe it.
Unloaded Test.Voltage Setting at multi-meter.
01. Pin 5 and pin 7 must get 12.x Volt, battery voltage
02. Pin 5 and pin 9 must get 12.x Volt, battery voltage
03. Pin 10 to pin 7 or 9, must get 12.x Volt, battery voltage
Loaded test.
Get 12V 50 watt halogen bulb or equivalent where 4.x amps draw can happen.
Fuse the light with 5 amps fuse. Do not use LED light, use incandescent lamp type.
Repeat test 01, 02 and 3 but this time instead of a multi-meter, use the 12V-50watt halogen.
Forget resistance test on ground/negative wire, bad contact still can read battery voltage.
Avoid using test light too if for power feed, if for signal/ground wire of sensor okey. Mimic the load as high as the suspect/failed device in question, that is the key.
If loaded test fail or dim, the wires/terminals set in question must then be tested with (+) or (-) source from battery post or jumper points to identify which is/are the bad ones.
.
My Left head light azz view. 2 photos below.
Just so you know, there is a small mystery wire : brown with green stripe which schematic does not indicate. I do not know about your Left Hand Drive car,if that mystery wire exist or not.
E400 Right Hand Drive is an outcast when it comes to WIS/EPC database. ==== CORRECTION 19 June 2021. THIS IS WRONG INFO. SEE NEWER PHOTOS. I MIS READ THE WIRE IN QUESTION.
==== CORRECTION 19 June 2021. THIS IS WRONG INFO. SEE NEWER PHOTOS. I MIS READ THE WIRE IN QUESTION.
Correction of 19 June 2021 - New photos using inspection camera. There are 4 wires there and not 2.. My apology.
I think MB description is as follows :
ACTUATION MODULE E1n7 or E2n7 , is the brain for motorized movement of the light.
HEADLAMP CONTROL UNIT E1n9 or E2n9 , is the driver. LED needs a driver* ( *a stable power supply voltage and amperage wise ) and not as easy like halogen 12V supply and end of story.
This video is for a W213 headlight, which basically is the same as our facelift W212 option code 641/642 dynamic led, in terms of complexity but the number of LED mini modules, W213 highest option could be more.
Just so you know what you are dealing with and any reckless DIY troubleshooting can cost you high $$ , so becareful or.................... go to authorized dealer.
From there... the way you car front lights are so assimetricaly perfect makes me think of a sort of low-power emergency mode to keep you on the road with the least power available - I don't know for fact this is an actual feature.
Your are almost correct Cali.
The way the Dynamic LED is wired for the Daytime Running Light is :
One side power feed the opposite side. So during power lost from burnt out fuse, the car at night won't be a one-eye-jack and taken as a motorcycle by incoming traffic and BOOM !!!
I just was experimenting with it, first is to assist Alee and also to re-visit my needs where I am still finding a way, via analog amperage and not via CAN-BUS......to detect command for Low Beam and High Beam. No can't do.
Safety - Prevention of One-Eye-Jack
Trouble code : if F74 removed , Left headlight low beam and high beam DEAD, Right Highbeam also DEAD. Dayline Running Light is ON.
Trouble code : if F75 removed , Right headlight low beam and high beam DEAD, Dayline Running Light is ON. I forgot if LEFT High Beam also died or not, sorry.
TO NOTE :
This Dynamic LED Light does not have High Beam and Low Beam per se.
High beam is the motorized action of tilting up the moveable outside light module, there is no extra LED chip powered up, based on amperage reading I conducted, which is only 5 amps x 2 ( F74 and F75 )
Basically you loose a bit illumination for the close up, but gain the far-away illumination....cheater MB
So the cornering low beam I seen worked on my car, must also be this moveable light module.
The Dynamic Part where certain zone can be turned off to not glare the car in front, is very probable by the LED Array below :
So Alee's code : B284D71 - The light distribution actuator motor is faulty. The actuator is blocked.
Can be an expensive affair if indeed actuator failed, because it needs to be coded and re-learn I think...... or .................. hopefully ONLY some data type wires or non 2.5mm ones are the culprit/s.
Untill the test I suggested is done : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8358697 ,
We can only bring out the Pop Corn for now...
B284D71 - The light distribution actuator motor is faulty. The actuator is blocked.
Well if you are contemplating buying a new unit... you may as well open the old controller to see if you can fix it (solderless pins?) for free.
The power path to the actuator motor acting up can reasonably be attributed to aged connections.
What have you got to loose?
From what I have seen the Benz electronic power parts are not undersized (as you'd expect on VW).
The fix is likely extra simple like a burned trace, bad solder joint, nothing too fancy. Once you have located the culprit, don't be shy, open it up like an oyster shell.
The failure points tend to be well engineered with an overall bias towards safety.
The problem with German cars is you need to keep a spare Japanese car to drive around.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 08-21-2021 at 01:39 AM.
Your are almost correct Cali.
The way the Dynamic LED is wired for the Daytime Running Light is :
One side power feed the opposite side. So during power lost from burnt out fuse, the car at night won't be a one-eye-jack and taken as a motorcycle by incoming traffic and BOOM !!!
I just was experimenting with it, first is to assist Alee and also to re-visit my needs where I am still finding a way, via analog amperage and not via CAN-BUS......to detect command for Low Beam and High Beam. No can't do.
Safety - Prevention of One-Eye-Jack
Trouble code : if F74 removed , Left headlight low beam and high beam DEAD, Right Highbeam also DEAD. Dayline Running Light is ON.
Trouble code : if F75 removed , Right headlight low beam and high beam DEAD, Dayline Running Light is ON. I forgot if LEFT High Beam also died or not, sorry.
TO NOTE :
This Dynamic LED Light does not have High Beam and Low Beam per se.
High beam is the motorized action of tilting up the moveable outside light module, there is no extra LED chip powered up, based on amperage reading I conducted, which is only 5 amps x 2 ( F74 and F75 )
Basically you loose a bit illumination for the close up, but gain the far-away illumination....cheater MB
So the cornering low beam I seen worked on my car, must also be this moveable light module.
The Dynamic Part where certain zone can be turned off to not glare the car in front, is very probable by the LED Array below :
So Alee's code : B284D71 - The light distribution actuator motor is faulty. The actuator is blocked.
Can be an expensive affair if indeed actuator failed, because it needs to be coded and re-learn I think...... or .................. hopefully ONLY some data type wires or non 2.5mm ones are the culprit/s.
Untill the test I suggested is done : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8358697 ,
We can only bring out the Pop Corn for now...
.
This thread is getting pretty exciting. Thank you so much for your input! I’ll try seeing what i can do with the actuator on the second step i initially thought that code had something to do with the lights not functioning . I need to get hold of my lights which is the main thing
plus thank you again. You’ve been extremely helpful!
Your are almost correct Cali.
The way the Dynamic LED is wired for the Daytime Running Light is :
One side power feed the opposite side. So during power lost from burnt out fuse, the car at night won't be a one-eye-jack and taken as a motorcycle by incoming traffic and BOOM !!!
I just was experimenting with it, first is to assist Alee and also to re-visit my needs where I am still finding a way, via analog amperage and not via CAN-BUS......to detect command for Low Beam and High Beam. No can't do.
Safety - Prevention of One-Eye-Jack
Trouble code : if F74 removed , Left headlight low beam and high beam DEAD, Right Highbeam also DEAD. Dayline Running Light is ON.
Trouble code : if F75 removed , Right headlight low beam and high beam DEAD, Dayline Running Light is ON. I forgot if LEFT High Beam also died or not, sorry.
TO NOTE :
This Dynamic LED Light does not have High Beam and Low Beam per se.
High beam is the motorized action of tilting up the moveable outside light module, there is no extra LED chip powered up, based on amperage reading I conducted, which is only 5 amps x 2 ( F74 and F75 )
Basically you loose a bit illumination for the close up, but gain the far-away illumination....cheater MB
So the cornering low beam I seen worked on my car, must also be this moveable light module.
The Dynamic Part where certain zone can be turned off to not glare the car in front, is very probable by the LED Array below :
So Alee's code : B284D71 - The light distribution actuator motor is faulty. The actuator is blocked.
Can be an expensive affair if indeed actuator failed, because it needs to be coded and re-learn I think...... or .................. hopefully ONLY some data type wires or non 2.5mm ones are the culprit/s.
Untill the test I suggested is done : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8358697 ,
We can only bring out the Pop Corn for now...
.
also the codes you got when you removed the fuses are i think the exact codes i’m getting as well but replacing those fuses did not help? Any clue why?
also the codes you got when you removed the fuses are i think the exact codes i’m getting as well but replacing those fuses did not help?
Any clue why?
Has this car been driven on salty-roads??
I would check the headlights GND posts in the wheel well before replacing pricey parts.
Get a schematic:
I don't know this circuit, specifically if the CAN signal GND is shared -or not with LED power GND that should be checked.
The only true story is from a diagram.
I am reading this thread to learn the details of fixing these modules.
+++ UPD:
GND being common to both power and control, when it goes floating, the CTL gets crazy with high power LED PWM supply spikes 😏
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 08-21-2021 at 01:28 AM.
also the codes you got when you removed the fuses are i think the exact codes i’m getting as well but replacing those fuses did not help? Any clue why?
Well, have u done the Unloaded and Loaded test I suggested to read actual available power/s at the light connector itself ?
Untill you can onfirm those main power wires are healthy at the light itself, the rest is just speculation.
If it were only fuses, you wont come to this forum for assistance....right ?
05-28-2021, 05:04 PM
==== CORRECTION 19 June 2021. THIS IS WRONG INFO. SEE NEWER PHOTOS. I MIS READ THE WIRE IN QUESTION.
