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I took my car to an alignment shop, and everything went smoothly except for one issue: the mechanic mentioned that the rear right toe link is frozen. I have a question: is the toe link the same as the control arm? Can someone share a picture of what a toe link looks like?
Be sure to pick up new nuts and bolts also. Im a big fan of just reusing all the hardware but on mine, and from the looks of it yours, it looks all rusted and would def buy new hardware.
Make sure to get the "Right" one also. The Left and Right are different from eachother.
How much $$ is he charging you for replacing it? Im just curious. Does anything else look like it needs to be replaced? If he does end up having to lower the subframe then now would be a good time to replace anything else while hes at it.
I will add i have had good luck finding used Mercedes parts in very good condition on ebay from California salvage yards to save money. I bought an entire set of the control arms very cheap, they look brand new compared to whats under my car.
Just to note in the instructions it says whenever the subframe bolts are removed the holes need to be re-threaded to remove all the old thread locker. I attached the torque specs in case anyone does it themselves. Im holding off on the job until i decide exactly what I want to replace under there. I may install a new sway bar while im under there.
Torque specs:
Instructions for the W212 though should be the same for W204.
Yes, to remove the thrust arm bolt the stop plate is in the way and has to be removed. I watched that video awhile ago and even commented on it.
To remove the tie-rod bolt it looks like the gas tank is in the way, so thats why im assuming they say to lower the subframe.
As far as I can tell to replace all the control arms minus the spring control arm the subframe has to be lowered. Even replacing the sway bar. The way the bolts are installed theres not enough room to pull them out to get the part out. If they installed the bolts from the opposite side it looks doable. Thats why I mention doing everything at once since the subframe will be lowered. I would love to not have to mess with the subframe, but dont see it possible.
If someone has done it without lowering the subframe id love to hear how?
My subframe doesnt seem to be one of the bad ones. To me it looks like a typical New England car for its year and mileage. I did pick up new stop plates at the dealer to replace the rusted ones.
I read that article on Pelican Parts and not sure why they remove the wheel carrier, maybe because they figure you are replacing all the control arms. You will be leaving the spring control arm in so i dont see a reason to remove the wheel carrier.
It appears the emergency brake pads will have to be removed in order to unbolt the dust shield so it can be rotated to access one of the upper control arm bolts. But I see no reason to touch the axle nut or completely remove the wheel carrier.
I would be removing/replacing each control arm as I go along, so only one arm will be disconnected at one time.
Side note I had to replace my dust shields due to sever rust. All i did was remove the parking brake pads, unbolt the dust shield then snip it off with a pair of metal snips. To install the new dust shield i had cut it in half with a hack saw, so there were two bolts on each cut side, slide it on then bolted it up. No need to remove the hub.
Thank you..... i took the pic....it's the same one you posted.
John
hey @jgoga , looks like your subframe is pretty rusted and looks to have fallen victim to rusting/rotting out.
i was going to attempt to replace my rear suspension but found mine in a similar condition as yours. Mine was so badly gone the car would sway when getting on the highway if I hit a bump.
I suggest you take your car to your local MB dealership for the subframe recall. They will replace the entire subframe, rear control arms/bushings, and rear alignment all for free under the extended warranty.
my MB dealership was cool enough to install the rear suspension parts I already purchased from FCP Euro. I also requested they put in new rear shocks, coil springs, and rear sway bar.
it was worth the 2hrs of labor they charged me to not have to drop the subframe myself.and it worked out for them because they put in all new parts.
@TimC300 i praise you for tackling the rear end yourself on these cars ! It’s definitely not an easy job.
06-01-2024, 02:55 PM
