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Hello, everyone. I just got a 2015 GLK 350 and need to do the first oil change.
I searched the forums and found many posts that did not answer my question.
I also googled it and had no luck. It seems everyone uses different oils.
I live in Washington, DC, and I assume this will affect the oil the car will need.
Here are my questions:
1) What brand of oil should I use? I thought Mercedes recommended mobile 1?
2) What engine oil viscosity?
In my 13 I use Mobil 1 0-40 and a hengshell filter (I think that’s the name ) I think the recommended 9000 interval is a joke , I do around 3000 because it’s all city driving . The cheapest price is Walmart for oil, yes change it you don’t know what’s in there now . The oil needs to be MB rated , the 0/40 Mobil 1 European formula is
In my 13 I use Mobil 1 0-40 and a hengshell filter (I think that’s the name ) I think the recommended 9000 interval is a joke , I do around 3000 because it’s all city driving . The cheapest price is Walmart for oil, yes change it you don’t know what’s in there now . The oil needs to be MB rated , the 0/40 Mobil 1 European formula is
My last oil change was 5w-40 Liquid Moly 6000 KM ago. Just came back from a trip of over 5000 KM and had hard time checking the oil afterwards. The oil was so clean that it was hard to see (old eyes did not help) and level was the same as when oil was changed. Change once a year on all cars since 2084.
I'm a big fan of Mobil 1 - I've used it almost exclusively for at least several decades, and never had any oil-related failures (and I drive nothing but high mileage cars - 130 - 260,000 miles).
The viscosity recommended by MB varies by climate - it should be in your owner's manual for your particular engine. There's no one right answer.
Check your manual for the oil grade for your current temperature. I think they also mention the MB spec that should be mentioned on the oil jug. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic, no probs.
go into the oil section and look at
Click on the "Engine Oil" button, expand the reading area (show more), the look at sheets 226.xx and 229.xx for oil info.
Sheet 223.2 talks about engines and the info sheet numbers that relate to a specific engine type. The info sheets then show the oils they should use.
Last edited by KanataSteve; 07-03-2024 at 03:55 AM.
I use Mobil1 0w40 which meets MB specs. 0w40 because it gets cold in the winter, also it is inexpensive at the local Walmart. Can also sometimes find rebates on the Mobil1 rebate website.
Depending on which oil filter your engine has Mercedes is made by Mann or Purflux if you want to save some money. Can verify by seeing the stamping on an original Mercedes filter.
Check your manual for the oil grade for your current temperature. I think they also mention the MB spec that should be mentioned on the oil jug. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic, no probs.
go into the oil section and look at
Click on the "Engine Oil" button, expand the reading area (show more), the look at sheets 226.xx and 229.xx for oil info.
Sheet 223.2 talks about engines and the info sheet numbers that relate to a specific engine type. The info sheets then show the oils they should use.
I use Mobil1 0w40 which meets MB specs. 0w40 because it gets cold in the winter, also it is inexpensive at the local Walmart. Can also sometimes find rebates on the Mobil1 rebate website.
Depending on which oil filter your engine has Mercedes is made by Mann or Purflux if you want to save some money. Can verify by seeing the stamping on an original Mercedes filter.
Thanks. I found the operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com page last night and posted the link this morning before I saw your comments!
Thanks!
Originally Posted by KanataSteve
Check your manual for the oil grade for your current temperature. I think they also mention the MB spec that should be mentioned on the oil jug. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic, no probs.
go into the oil section and look at
Click on the "Engine Oil" button, expand the reading area (show more), the look at sheets 226.xx and 229.xx for oil info.
Sheet 223.2 talks about engines and the info sheet numbers that relate to a specific engine type. The info sheets then show the oils they should use.
[I use 5-40 euro spec oil and Mann filters in all my Mercedes, including my C63. My winter oil is euro spec 5-30 Manitoba gets very cold.
QUOTE=Mmr1;8995307]In my 13 I use Mobil 1 0-40 and a hengshell filter (I think that’s the name ) I think the recommended 9000 interval is a joke , I do around 3000 because it’s all city driving . The cheapest price is Walmart for oil, yes change it you don’t know what’s in there now . The oil needs to be MB rated , the 0/40 Mobil 1 European formula is[/QUOTE]
I found all the answers with your help. Thanks!
Last question: any comments about using oil starctors?
I live in the city with no garage, and I'm planning to go that route.
I saw a few YouTube videos where Mercedes owners use them, and the place that used to service my cars also uses them.
Also, when using an oil stractor, should the car be leveled or maybe lifted a bit from the front?
Not sure of the car's oil pan is flat or has like deeper in the center.
You mean extractor, right? Yes, I use one. Once you get the hang of positioning the pickup tube correctly (at the right depth) they work well. (I marked the tube for our cars.) I suspect the oil pan is designed to work best when the car is level.
I've tried several. Some are way too expensive, and some don't work well. I'm using a Topsider. It's very reasonable and works well. My only complaint is you don't have any visibility into what is going on.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired)
No one is gonna believe this, but I have built both an oil extractor and a one-person brake bleeder from components at the hardware store.
I even did write-ups and how to build them, but it'll take hours to find the links (happened long ago.).
I would like to mention ... and that's another link I have to find in here ... is an "oil drain hose".
You remove the oil drain plug, screw in this hose, and from then on, you unplug the end of that hose to drain oil.
I'll look for that link. That way, you Never have to remove the drain plug and re-insert it. (and drop the lower pan).
Last edited by calder-cay; 07-03-2024 at 06:30 PM.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired)
Originally Posted by calder-cay
I would like to mention ... and that's another link I have to find in here ... is an "oil drain hose".
You remove the oil drain plug, screw in this hose, and from then on, you unplug the end of that hose to drain oil.
I'll look for that link. That way, you Never have to remove the drain plug and re-insert it. (and drop the lower pan).
I bought an oil extractor just to try it, and can’t get the last quart out. I really don’t believe in the principal because it leaves in the heavy sludge . The motor was designed to be drained . Oh the filter I use is MANN in a yellow and green box. Amazon has them .
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired)
Originally Posted by Mmr1
I bought an oil extractor just to try it, and can’t get the last quart out. I really don’t believe in the principal because it leaves in the heavy sludge . The motor was designed to be drained . Oh the filter I use is MANN in a yellow and green box. Amazon has them .
Dealerships and most oil change places use oil extractors ... not that that is meaningful... for them, it means less time.
I get the Mann filter at the local auto parts, no need to order online and wait for it, and just as inexpensive.
I recently changed the oil/oil filter in my M272 and just did it from the drain plug. I have an electric pump to do it from the dipstick but this time I wanted to inspect the underside for any signs of leaks. I found a few of the undertray screws were stripped and needed to be replaced anyways.
I just have a basic 12v electric fluid pump $15 off Amazon that works well, just have to make sure the engine is at operating temp or else it takes foreverrrrr to suck the oil out. I didnt want something taking up alot of space in the basement, the electric pump fits in a small box when im not using it. I cut off the battery clamps and spliced on a 12v outlet plug so I can run it off a ac/dc converter or even plug it in to a battery booster pack. I stick the hose all the way down to the bottom, then picked up a rubber stopper at Lowes which seals off the dipstick tube nicely.
Using the drain plug just have to make sure to get the 14mm crush washer.
They sell the adapter that fits the dipstick tube, or you can make your own from a rubber stopper and brass fitting.
When I replaced the oil filter housing gaskets I didnt drain the oil or coolant first, when I pulled the housing I was afraid i got coolant in the oil so i drained the oil by the dipstick. I wanted to make sure I got everything out so I removed the drain plug the next morning and hardly anything came out, a few drops of oil. So I know using the dipstick does work. In the M272 instructions is has the option of either dipstick or drain plug.