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I messed up the sequence of installing the hard too.
I managed to lock the front connection points (1) ... before setting the locating point (2) and rear attachment points (1).
Now the front will not release.
When doing this I did not have ignition on 2 or the doors open. Although I did turn the ignition on to attempt to lock things down ... when the front locked.
Now the front will not release.
How to release??
Got flustered and did not seat the back properly before locking down ... the front locked & now will not release.
The reason it isn't sitting square is because the windows were up when you lowered the top onto the car. Don't ever do that again.
Support the rear of the hard top BEFORE lowering the windows. When the windows lower, the rear hard top inserts will want to move into position probably taking big gouges out of the tonneau deck. Lower the windows.
Flip down both visors and pull the 2 plugs (CAREFULLY) from the header to access the front release points. With a regular 6 mm (or 5 mm, somewhere around there) Allen wrench socket, turn the header lock points to release the front edge of the hard top. I think there are 2 "clicks" to release. Turn the first top release lock to the first click and then move to the second lock and turn it to the first click as well. Go back to the first lock and fully open the lock, then go the the second lock and do the same.
Good point about supporting the back while unlatching the front.
Also a very good instruction on manual release...
I have installed the hardtop many times over 18 years of ownership .... but we were moving house yesterday, asked a moving company laborer to help. I tried to do this from memory & I got all flustered in the process.
I will definitely re-read the manual each time I do the mounting in the future.
The passengers side opened on two clicks.
The drivers side was very tight and eventually popped and now spins freely in both directions - not releasing.
The passengers side opened on two clicks.
The drivers side was very tight and eventually popped and now spins freely in both directions - not releasing.
My car is 1999 - if that makes any difference.
Apparently the top release got more complex in about 1994.
Are the (2) manual release mechanisms handed (threaded) opposite one side of the car to the other?
On the passenger side “left” did loosen and with (2) clicks the mechanism released & lifted.
With the drivers side “left” did not release (after the first click on the passenger side) and with enough manual torque led to the mechanism breaking. Then freely spinning left or right.
Even if we were to get the locked mechanism to release by working on the hydraulics ... without replacing the broken part ... if the hydraulics ever malfunctioned - then the top would be permanently locked ... with no ability to open manually or hydraulically.
The remedy now is to replace the broken mechanism ... new part = $ 1,400 supply only.
I've replaced my header cylinders twice now, the first time 12 years ago with MB; the second time last year with rebuilds from TH.
Short of rounding out the Allen head receiver end of the locks, I don't see how you broke the header lock mechanism. The R129 has a few faults, but breakable hard top header locks isn't one of them. The lock mechanisms are STOUT. I can't imagine the amount of torque one would have to apply to snap off the mechanism BEFORE rounding out the Allen receiver. Impressive.
As for another lock mechanism, call Klaus at TH and he should be able to put you on the path to a replacement.
How are you going to get the balky lock to fully release the top?
Lucky you, TH does international business. Klaus may also know how to pop that last lock, give him a call.
Per his website:
ATTENTION INTERNATIONAL CUSTOMERS
For Customs Duties and Taxes, you must declare a value on your package. Please Note: Top Hydraulics Inc, will not accept United Stated Customs and Duties charges on packages with declared value over 200 US dollars. You must ship "free domicile", meaning you as the sender agree to accept responsibility for all Customs duties, broker fees, and taxes. On packages with values declared over 200 US dollars, we are typically charged an Entry Prep Fee (currently about $25) plus 2.5% tax on the declared value of the package, there are oftentimes delays in customs, and it can take a while for us to receive the actual customs invoice.
Yes the mechanism is broken - I managed to twist it off by turning left rather than right on the drivers side. Where the screw driver is pointing ... is where the mechanism was damaged by me turning the wrong way.
I hope you never have to look at this.
The mechanic had (2) helpers put force down into the rear attachment points .... which tricked the systems into thinking everything was OK.
Then the hydraulics released the front lockdowns.
I wish he had done.(2) things yesterday:
1) Advise me not to pull so hard on the manual release ... try the other way - in case it was reverse thread (which it is).
2) Thought of the pressure needed to trick the hydraulics into working
I have been just trying to do everything in too much of a rush ... has not paid off these past few days.
Yes the hydraulic lock down / release on the drivers side. I now have the worlds most expensive paper weight.
There is no easy way to rebuild the unit which contains the one broken part.
With labour - just under $ 2,000 CDN.
By the way - apparently the rear drivers side attachment point has the micro switch that when holding a load ... tells all the other hydraulics that it is OK to function.
I wish we had thought of / or known that before doing the right and left (opposite) handed manual release.
That still had to take what seemed like an inordinate amount of force to break. You can now see how beefy the lock mechanism is built.
Have you called Klaus yet?
There is no reason to spend 2K of anything to repair one lock. The lock itself is held in with the 2 Torx bolts that you see before you. After you disengage both oil lines, the entire lock comes out.
12-15-2020, 02:11 PM
