SL/R129: Odometer Issue
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
1996 sl 500
Odometer Issue
So, I went to replace my instrument panel lamps and when i placed in back in, the odometer is at all zeros and wont progressive. The trip meter still works.
Any ideas on a fix?
Any ideas on a fix?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
1996 sl 500
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
1996 sl 500
So, after checking the instrument panel again, I had failed to replace all the screws that held the black plastic back to the cluster back in. Once I did, all the lights now work. But the odometer is not illuminated at all and the odometer does not register, but the trip meter does. I am puzzled now.
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes Teases Updated EQS With Steer-By-Wire and a Yoke
Verdad Gallardo
8 Mercedes Models With Poor Reliability Records
Verdad Gallardo
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 698
Likes: 206
From: Lutz, FL
1997 MB SL600
I know the lights just twist out from the back of the cluster and you don't have to disassemble the cluster to change them.
Did you separate the printed circuit board from the instruments and the backing?
As you now know EACH instrument receives it's connection by prongs that spear through the printed circuit board. AND the odometer is secured by it's own screws.
Time to carefully clean and check each spear connection and doublecheck the odometer connections inside the cluster.
Have you read the threads on replacing the cluster capacitors? I've done mine, but it sounds like you might have a bent spear or something not reassembled properly.
Did you take the cluster apart to clean up the white residue on the black surround face to the gauges just inside the cluster lens?
Did you separate the printed circuit board from the instruments and the backing?
As you now know EACH instrument receives it's connection by prongs that spear through the printed circuit board. AND the odometer is secured by it's own screws.
Time to carefully clean and check each spear connection and doublecheck the odometer connections inside the cluster.
Have you read the threads on replacing the cluster capacitors? I've done mine, but it sounds like you might have a bent spear or something not reassembled properly.
Did you take the cluster apart to clean up the white residue on the black surround face to the gauges just inside the cluster lens?
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 698
Likes: 206
From: Lutz, FL
1997 MB SL600
Google repair of the cluster.
I believe there are places (for a fee) that can either advise you or you can send away for repair.
It really looks like you haven't connected something correctly. If your cluster was working properly before it was opened, it most surely is something that wasn't reassembled correctly.
Try to think about how you took it apart and observe the instrument connections.
I believe there are places (for a fee) that can either advise you or you can send away for repair.
It really looks like you haven't connected something correctly. If your cluster was working properly before it was opened, it most surely is something that wasn't reassembled correctly.
Try to think about how you took it apart and observe the instrument connections.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
1996 sl 500
Thanks. i plan to disassemble it today.
When I took it out, I replaced some of the bulbs with LED and added those trim rings. I am now wondering if those trim rings are somehow interfering with some sort of connection.
When I took it out, I replaced some of the bulbs with LED and added those trim rings. I am now wondering if those trim rings are somehow interfering with some sort of connection.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
1996 sl 500
I know the lights just twist out from the back of the cluster and you don't have to disassemble the cluster to change them.
Did you separate the printed circuit board from the instruments and the backing?
As you now know EACH instrument receives it's connection by prongs that spear through the printed circuit board. AND the odometer is secured by it's own screws.
Time to carefully clean and check each spear connection and doublecheck the odometer connections inside the cluster.
Have you read the threads on replacing the cluster capacitors? I've done mine, but it sounds like you might have a bent spear or something not reassembled properly.
Did you take the cluster apart to clean up the white residue on the black surround face to the gauges just inside the cluster lens?
Did you separate the printed circuit board from the instruments and the backing?
As you now know EACH instrument receives it's connection by prongs that spear through the printed circuit board. AND the odometer is secured by it's own screws.
Time to carefully clean and check each spear connection and doublecheck the odometer connections inside the cluster.
Have you read the threads on replacing the cluster capacitors? I've done mine, but it sounds like you might have a bent spear or something not reassembled properly.
Did you take the cluster apart to clean up the white residue on the black surround face to the gauges just inside the cluster lens?
I will try this today. Thank You
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
1996 sl 500
So, I took it completely apart. leaned any debris with electronic parts cleaner. Did not see any burns or hot spots. Removed the odometer assembly. There is a rubber like strip that was dislodged. I inserted it back in the odometer assembly channel. Button it up.
So, all lights work, odometer displays as it should without the funky partial numbers. But, odometer still reads all zeros, like it did when I first replaced bulbs.
Could this be in any attributed to using led bulbs in the backlighting?
Any advice on how to restore the correct mileage back would be a blessing
Thank you for helping me
So, all lights work, odometer displays as it should without the funky partial numbers. But, odometer still reads all zeros, like it did when I first replaced bulbs.
Could this be in any attributed to using led bulbs in the backlighting?
Any advice on how to restore the correct mileage back would be a blessing
Thank you for helping me
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 698
Likes: 206
From: Lutz, FL
1997 MB SL600
I should think folks might be interested in how to reset their digital odometers back to zero.
I would say the LED blubs were the problem. MB does use the resistance in the bulbs for certain systems, like light burnout monitoring.
For the next part, I sure hope you know how to run through the battery power interruption procedure. I.e. how to reset the windows, steering wheel position sensor and the radio code. All these things are in the manual.
BEFORE removing power, lower each window about 2 inches.
At this point, I would CAREFULLLY remove the negative battery cable, insert the key and rotate to start. Now remove the key and let the car sit for about an hour with the battery cable detached.
Reattach the negative cable, start the car and perform the battery interruption procedure.
Hopefully, the mileage will reappear, If not, drive the car and make sure it's at least recording mileage.
Return, throw away or use the LED bulbs in a non-computer controlled car.
Good luck.
I would say the LED blubs were the problem. MB does use the resistance in the bulbs for certain systems, like light burnout monitoring.
For the next part, I sure hope you know how to run through the battery power interruption procedure. I.e. how to reset the windows, steering wheel position sensor and the radio code. All these things are in the manual.
BEFORE removing power, lower each window about 2 inches.
At this point, I would CAREFULLLY remove the negative battery cable, insert the key and rotate to start. Now remove the key and let the car sit for about an hour with the battery cable detached.
Reattach the negative cable, start the car and perform the battery interruption procedure.
Hopefully, the mileage will reappear, If not, drive the car and make sure it's at least recording mileage.
Return, throw away or use the LED bulbs in a non-computer controlled car.
Good luck.
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 698
Likes: 206
From: Lutz, FL
1997 MB SL600
Then you still have a bad connection between the display and the odometer memory in the cluster.
I should think the connection would be a flat flexible printed circuit cable between the two.
I should think the connection would be a flat flexible printed circuit cable between the two.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
1996 sl 500
There is no cable, it just plugs in with prongs.
I am losing hope
Spoke to a guy at a company called eTech who claims that he has seen this happen a few times when you unplug the panel from power.
I am losing hope
Spoke to a guy at a company called eTech who claims that he has seen this happen a few times when you unplug the panel from power.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
1996 sl 500
A follow up to the issue and hopefully someone can shed some light on this.
So, my odometer is the led type, not the mechanical. I disassembled the instrument panel somewhat, removed the speedo gauge and them removed the odometer cluster. It is held on with 3 screws. It has a series of brass strips, I assume that connect to the circuit board. As i removed it, I noticed a gray rubber type strip that appears to fit in side a slot on the odometer connection to the circuit board. It was dislodged and I am not 100% sure which way it should be positioned. It fits inside the slot, but could fit one of four ways. Not sure how it became dislodged either.
Does anyone have any diagrams on how it should fit in place?
So, my odometer is the led type, not the mechanical. I disassembled the instrument panel somewhat, removed the speedo gauge and them removed the odometer cluster. It is held on with 3 screws. It has a series of brass strips, I assume that connect to the circuit board. As i removed it, I noticed a gray rubber type strip that appears to fit in side a slot on the odometer connection to the circuit board. It was dislodged and I am not 100% sure which way it should be positioned. It fits inside the slot, but could fit one of four ways. Not sure how it became dislodged either.
Does anyone have any diagrams on how it should fit in place?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
1996 sl 500
So, I solved my odometer failure by purchasing a working instrument panel for $300, sending it and my original panel to Atlanta Speedometer. They confirmed my actual mileage and then corrected it on the replacement and sent it back to me within a week. Their cost was $175, including shipping. Highly recommend them.
