grege

I have just constructed for myself (being amongst others an Electronics engineer) a window dropper for my 92 R129.
I observed a significant difference in the force required to close the door with the window down a jot, and that more recent ones (95? on) had this sorted by dropping the window.
So, I have fitted an electronic circuit into the car which drops the window an inch when either door opens, and puts it back again when the last door closes.
Door closing force is now much more consistent.

Anyone out there also like one as a retro-fit kit? Should I consider a production run? Potentially also works on all sorts of cars, not just SLs, but the convertibles are more likely to need it with the firm push of the door seals as well.

dandingo

This is what I need for my CLK 430.

A whole inch seems a bit much to lower the window though. I assume you can set the timing interval to the desired height you want to lower/raise?

What is required for the installation? Are any modifications easily reversible?

-Dan

blueSL

What an interesting project! I considered doing similar for the first 129 I had which did not drop the windows as did later models. Door closing was something of an issue as was the quality of the seal and resulting wind noise.

I assume you are now powering the window motors when the ignition is off, I can't remember whether the windows were powered with the key out and the door open.

One thing that I've never really answered for myself is whether electric windows have limit sensors. The motors can take significant current when opening and closing to handle friction, ice and so on and when the motor stalls because the window will not move any more, the current must go up. Is there some sort of limiting device?

I assume you lower the windows by blipping the motors briefly - that time must be quite difficult to choose to handle different conditions of battery power and so on. Don't know for sure but if I was designing a window mechanism to drop the windows, I'd want the mechanics to provide a way of just lowering the window enough, without relying on time to do it, so that all the electronics would have to do is say "lower/off/raise", "full motion/limited motion".

What's certain is that the window lifts in the 129 are very complex to install and align. With no frame to guide the glass, there are myriad adjustments to get it right, plus of course the vibration when you close the door is all too ready to upset the alignment.

As always with Mercedes, there tends to be a lot more to these things than meets the eye!

With the SL, there's always been a discernable delay between the door closing and the window lifting. On the R230, both the front and rear side windows drop; when you close the door, the main window lifts followed by the rear window a fraction of a second later. My 911 has the same (front windows only) but the delay is much less than with the R230. Doesn't make it better, just two different designer's view of the world.

grege

Yes timing is adjustable by a preset, both down and up separately to allow for different speeds thru mechanism differences with directions. If seal pressure is the main issue, then a smaller amout would work as well - I felt air pressure may also be an issue so dropped it a bit further.

If you are lucky in an R129 you MAY be able to do it without removing the centre console (with the switches in it, radio and aircon control). In mine the wires are actually visible in the back of the lower compartment behind the gearstick, but would be fairly difficult to attach the wires.

Removing the R129 centre console does require the radio removal tools (couldnt buy them readily, got my agent to pull the radio out, and made my own removal tool once I had the lock visible). Fairly straight forward after that, but I did have a video of how it disassembles from the R129 Technical Specs CD!
All mods would be reversible, just some 'taps' on the appropriate wires.

If I find demand and make some I'll do some instructions for R129, other models may be a bit more difficult for me to document as well (unless I have some volunteers), tho the same principles apply, and I would expect similar logic in the Mercedes controllers.

grege

>I assume you are now powering the window motors when the ignition is off, I can't >remember whether the windows were powered with the key out and the door open.

A bit of a trick was required to get power when the door closes again (for which I am quite proud of my cunning!). I'll say no more than I don't alter the fusing or power on the circuits, the windows still are powered down with the door closed!

>One thing that I've never really answered for myself is whether electric windows have >limit sensors. The motors can take significant current when opening and closing to >handle friction, ice and so on and when the motor stalls because the window will not >move any more, the current must go up. Is there some sort of limiting device?

There is the 2 second calibration trick that you can do, which I presume sets the stall current for the controller to shut off power to the motor after a couple of seconds. Not verified this...

>I assume you lower the windows by blipping the motors briefly - that time must be >quite difficult to choose to handle different conditions of battery power and so on. >Don't know for sure but if I was designing a window mechanism to drop the windows, >I'd want the mechanics to provide a way of just lowering the window enough, >without relying on time to do it, so that all the electronics would have to do is say >"lower/off/raise", "full motion/limited motion".

As I do not have access to all the smarts in the Mercedes controllers, I can only base it on time. Seems fine, wont be a problem if it varies a bit, just get a bit less or more than an inch!
Greg.

grege

Hi again on the dropper,
I have decided to make as commercial products a number of electric accessories for vehicles, this R129 / R... / W.... dropper being one of the first. There will be several other products with similar smarts.
The design is being finalised now, I will have some samples later this month for testing.
This unit is much smarter, has a microprocessor in it that can be programmed to work in a variety of ways, and user calibrated. It will know when you have dropped the window manually and not raise the window on closing. But can do things like auto close on lock, etc.
It will be in a small precision machined metal housing, so it looks fitting on a classy car.
Those interested send me a message and I will let you know when its available.
Greg E.

dafi129

I have devised on my 93 SL a much simpler and cheaper option.
Before leaving the car ,I drop my window a bit and then I am out and shut the door and lock by remote that closes the window again.
My alarm/central lock has a window and soft top shutting function!
So you have to drop the window manually whenever you intend to shut the door..you will save yourself from a shattered window one day..

grege

but that is only part of the story... the driver's door sees a lot of opening, and its just so much better to have the car do it totally automatically both ways for you.
MB fitted this function on later SLs and its a great refinement!

rellik

i would be very interested

send me some info to hersh.singh at gmail dot com

Bigdot

ooh im interested!!!!


bigmphotography@yahoo.com

mark

justinwrock

I would like some details on the remote soft top option on the remote. Let me know justinwrock@gmail.com.

kstokes91

I'm interested in the soft top remote too!

LeaUK

How about an integrated soft top rain sensor?

dafi129

My alarm that incorporates a microwave sensor to activate when the hood is down,is a Gemini alarm[Italian] that comes with that option.
You can have so many options on that thing,window closure,total closure,
beeper,pager,panic,GSM option....and so on.....
If you have a Gemini dealer in the UK,I'm sure he can help...