SL/R230: Lowering question
I have 20's and want to go as low as I can without getting bad wear on the inside edge of the tire. I've heard 1.5 in the front and 2 inches in the back is common...?
Thanks
Last edited by CY; Mar 15, 2006 at 09:44 PM.

it's not slammed, but it's low enough. i haven't noticed a butterfly effect with it, it's an R230. i know you mentioned your last sl had that.
anyone with really low R230s notice a butterfly effect? is it possible with ABC?
I never noticed any abnormal tire wear on my S class as well.
You should be okay unless your car is extremely low.
Having to upgrade their SDS software first they spent several hours trying but were not able to lower the car more then 1/4 without the ABC light coming on. I told them that I am sure we could lower the car more but again to no avail.
We are currently in the process of changing the 4 rods to lower the car mechanically.
I just was wondering if anybody knows how the dealer was able to lower the car with SDS beyond 1/2 (or more) inch. Anybody knows the details what needs to be done in the SDS?
I actually checked with both my local dealers but neither was able to lower the SLs further.
I personally have used the bracket/washer method and never had a problem.
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Is ther anything I should tell them before hand...and is there a specific ratio front and back one should go... like 1 inch in front and 2 in back...or do they eye it out?
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I don't know how low it was dropped. I just remember the tires were tucked under the fenders.
I don't think any method is superior/safer than another (module vs StarDiag vs bracket/washer). I just know that depending on which vendor you talk to, they will promote a certain product while slamming another product. I think honestly that the airmatic/ABC system is not meant for long term use and the system has a chance of failing, whether its stock or whether you modify it.
I've also heard stories of dealers that lower the car using the StarDiag. If the customer wants it to be even lower, they tell the client they have to hook it up to another machine, when in fact, the just use washers to lower the car even more. I don't have first hand experience with StarDiag, but I've heard there are limitations.
I forgot to add. When lowering using the washer/bracket, you basically have to eyeball it. For example, if you lower the left front side, it will also raise the right front side. It just takes some practice. You have to know how low you want the car to be and the tech should be able to accomodate.
YMMV
Last edited by jl88; Mar 17, 2006 at 01:45 AM.
When lowering the car using the software, are any additional parts needed?
I have 20's on a 2005 SL500 Sport and want to go as low as possible without
getting tire ware on the inner edges (butterfly effect) how low do you
recommend...1inch in front, 2 in back...or do you just eye it out? I really
want therear to have no gap at all...or be tucked like some of the other member'scars on MBWORLD.
Thanks
Cy in Los Angeles
The response:
Hi Cy,
lowering mercedes benzes with stardiagnose is only possible on cars that
come equiped with airmatic - not on cars that come equiped with ABC (like
yours).
Lowering itself always results in negative camber and uneven tireware unless
you use camber correction kits (which are not available for all cars).
Am I out of luck? Many members have said they had no problem
If the StarDiag method isn't available, you can always go with the bracket/washer or use a lowering module.
Let us know about your new project....
You can't do this on the 05 newer cars with the MB computer. CANNOT BE DONE!!!
You have a few choices:
TWS lowering brackets (I've tried emailing, calling, nothing and their website sucks).
Lowering module from Kleeman/Brabus/Renntech/Lorinser (be careful...some SL owners are having big issues with some of these...randomly allowing the car to go up, down, etc.)
Lowering rods, like these: http://www.gmpperformance.com/index....ID=148058&VS=1 which basically "trick" you car into thinking it's higher, thus telling the computer to make the car lower.
Works fine so LONG AS you do not allow the car to rest on the bump stop (air cylinder all the way down). If you do, car rides like **** and struts WILL FAIL AND NOT BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.
By the way: if you don't lower the car the wrong way, there might not be a need for an alignment. The system is designed to go up and down already, remember? If the vehicle is lowered aggressively, an alignment will most likely be needed and there's no guarantee that there's enough range of motion to bring the car back within spec. End result: more rapid tire wear.
Last edited by craiglieberman; Mar 21, 2006 at 06:02 PM.
You can't do this on the 05 newer cars with the MB computer. CANNOT BE DONE!!!
You have a few choices:
TWS lowering brackets (I've tried emailing, calling, nothing and their website sucks).
Lowering module from Kleeman/Brabus/Renntech/Lorinser (be careful...some SL owners are having big issues with some of these...randomly allowing the car to go up, down, etc.)
Lowering rods, like these: http://www.gmpperformance.com/index....ID=148058&VS=1 which basically "trick" you car into thinking it's higher, thus telling the computer to make the car lower.
Works fine so LONG AS you do not allow the car to rest on the bump stop (air cylinder all the way down). If you do, car rides like **** and struts WILL FAIL AND NOT BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.
By the way: if you don't lower the car the wrong way, there might not be a need for an alignment. The system is designed to go up and down already, remember? If the vehicle is lowered aggressively, an alignment will most likely be needed and there's no guarantee that there's enough range of motion to bring the car back within spec. End result: more rapid tire wear.
Thanks for the explanation and suggestions



