SL/R230: SL600 mods
08-21-2008, 05:18 PM
#51
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2006 SL600, 2001 S500, 1996 SL320
60 foot time: 1.932
1/8 Mile ET: 7.787
1/8 Mile MPH: 93.08
1/4 Mile ET: 11.958
1/4 Mile MPH: 120.27
Track Name: sgmp
08-21-2008, 05:30 PM
#52
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I think StephenK is illustrating what I am talking about...RENNdoc's car is hitting the 1/8 mile at 94+mph...and only trapping 116's while StephenK's is trapping 120+mph. My CL65 traps in the 92's in the 1/8 and 118.08-118.98mph in the 1/4 mile (all hot humid days -typical for DC during the summer). The track temps make a huge difference....but I think RENNdoc is suffering from some heat soak...maybe an inconsistent IC pump? 
Tom
Tom
08-21-2008, 06:10 PM
#53
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Thread Starter
I'd definitely buy that something is going on further in the run. Being at 94, but only hitting 116 doesn't seem to conform to past resultst I've seen. SL600's with a flash usually trap in the low 120s. Unfortunately, I haven't gotten mine to the track yet (and I'm a novice too - have never been to the drags), but I plan to make a run or two in September, so this advice is helpful!
Is "Sport" the "softer" of the two settings for the suspension? I'd assume you want the softer, for just launching, correct? Would that be "comfort"?
Is "Sport" the "softer" of the two settings for the suspension? I'd assume you want the softer, for just launching, correct? Would that be "comfort"?
08-21-2008, 07:59 PM
#54
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2005 SL600 RENNtech
Others on here who have more knowledge of these things would have to critique if this is the best procedure .....
08-21-2008, 08:05 PM
#55
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I used the SPORT shift mode and the SPORT ABC setting, assuming that this stiffened the suspension and therefore was the most appropriate for launching. I'd have to check my Owner's Manual to confirm that assumption.
Others on here who have more knowledge of these things would have to critique if this is the best procedure .....
Others on here who have more knowledge of these things would have to critique if this is the best procedure .....
Tom
08-21-2008, 08:15 PM
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2005 SL600 RENNtech
The rule of thumb is to put the suspension in the highest and softest mode. The theory is that under hard acceleration you want the weight to shift back to the rear wheels to help with traction. If the dampers are set to the stiffest (sport) you won't get that shifting of the weight to the rear.
Tom
Tom
08-21-2008, 09:33 PM
#57
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Ok, so I've got this current understanding:
1.) Trans in SPORT
2.) Suspension in COMFORT
3.) Ride Height "2" (basically highest)
That leaves the last question, with the car in "SPORT" mode, does it matter if I launch with the car in "D" or "1"? I'd assume in "SPORT" mode, the trans launches the car in 1st gear anyway.
Now I just need some wider tires and maybe an LSD to get myself some type of traction! (purchasing DRs is unlikely for me)
1.) Trans in SPORT
2.) Suspension in COMFORT
3.) Ride Height "2" (basically highest)
That leaves the last question, with the car in "SPORT" mode, does it matter if I launch with the car in "D" or "1"? I'd assume in "SPORT" mode, the trans launches the car in 1st gear anyway.
Now I just need some wider tires and maybe an LSD to get myself some type of traction! (purchasing DRs is unlikely for me)
08-21-2008, 10:31 PM
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2005 SL600 RENNtech
Ok, so I've got this current understanding:
1.) Trans in SPORT
2.) Suspension in COMFORT
3.) Ride Height "2" (basically highest)
That leaves the last question, with the car in "SPORT" mode, does it matter if I launch with the car in "D" or "1"? I'd assume in "SPORT" mode, the trans launches the car in 1st gear anyway.
Now I just need some wider tires and maybe an LSD to get myself some type of traction! (purchasing DRs is unlikely for me)
1.) Trans in SPORT
2.) Suspension in COMFORT
3.) Ride Height "2" (basically highest)
That leaves the last question, with the car in "SPORT" mode, does it matter if I launch with the car in "D" or "1"? I'd assume in "SPORT" mode, the trans launches the car in 1st gear anyway.
Now I just need some wider tires and maybe an LSD to get myself some type of traction! (purchasing DRs is unlikely for me)
08-21-2008, 11:42 PM
#59
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https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/236339-drag-racing-how.html
This is a link to a "Drag Racing How To" sticky thread in the W211 E55/E63 section. Most of the tips are portable across most of the AMG/V12TT platforms. If you guys didn't know it...most of the high performance, drag racing, mod threads are posted in this section. Not my preference...but it is how it is...
Tom
This is a link to a "Drag Racing How To" sticky thread in the W211 E55/E63 section. Most of the tips are portable across most of the AMG/V12TT platforms. If you guys didn't know it...most of the high performance, drag racing, mod threads are posted in this section. Not my preference...but it is how it is...
Tom
08-22-2008, 07:08 AM
#60
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Thread Starter
I konw the transmission will definitely upshift on redline even if you've specifically chosen 1, 2, etc. I've made the mistake of forgetting to upshift and it doesn't just rev limit you, it upshifts. It must be the TCU at work, because now that I've gotten a flash of the TCU, it will wait until 5,800 instead of 5,500 to shift (which is an intentional bump done via the flash).
It also won't let you downshift to a gear that puts you over the top (unlike the e-gear on a Lambo which will let you blow the engine, if that's your choice!)
I'll definitely read the sticky on the E55 forum, thanks!
It also won't let you downshift to a gear that puts you over the top (unlike the e-gear on a Lambo which will let you blow the engine, if that's your choice!)
I'll definitely read the sticky on the E55 forum, thanks!
08-25-2008, 12:49 PM
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04 SL600, 01 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner, 06 F-150 Lariat, 61 Corvette, 79 Porsche 930, Aprilia RVX 5.5
Ok, Renndoc, two things I would suggest are; First, you need to get that reaction time down to the .400-.500 area. don't look for the green, look for the last orange to go out. Two, drag-radials. Look at BGF, Kuhmo and Hoosier. With those two, you are looking at very close to 0.750 second or better.
08-26-2008, 11:12 AM
#62
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Ok, Renndoc, two things I would suggest are; First, you need to get that reaction time down to the .400-.500 area. don't look for the green, look for the last orange to go out. Two, drag-radials. Look at BGF, Kuhmo and Hoosier. With those two, you are looking at very close to 0.750 second or better.
The drag radials could help him launch harder...but his 60ft times are pretty darn good, but I do think with stickier tires it would help him unleash the torque sooner. He could pick up maybe .3 from that.
Tom
08-26-2008, 07:11 PM
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Technically that is correct. And my answer is sure to draw more fire. But it works like this...
Drag racing is a game of fractions of a second. If one is to concentrate on their start line technique and shave their rt down to under .500, it means that they are launching harder. A hard launch is a quicker launch. A quicker launch means that they are moving faster when they break the staging lights--which they should be staged right at anyway (staging long always works against you.) And moving faster through the beams equates to a lower E/T. Practice, practice, practice your start line technique because in a computer controlled car like a modern SL, after 30 feet, your really just steering and keeping the throttle on the floor. I give start line technique and familiarity 0.35 seconds.
As for drag radials. Why do you avoid the bleach box with street tires? Because the aren't designed for drag use. By their very name, one can see that drag tires are. Get a good set of BFG's hot and sticky and another 0.4 can come off of one's timeslip. Again, this is on the launch. This is where drag races are won and lost.
Why do I give DR's an extra tenth over your 0.3? Because with very low profile tires as on an SL, there are very stiff sidewalls. A DR will not only have a sticky compound tread, but a softer sidewall for more "wrinkle" or bite. Look at the sidewalls of a Top-Fueler on launch to see what I mean.
Now as for the speed diffeence on the big end versus the 1/8 mile, I don't put that much concern into it. This has to do with timing light placement at different tracks. Being that the half-track E/T and speed are consistant with other cars so modified, as are the big end E/T is also, all seems well. All tracks place the first beam at the end of the teack at 1320-feet, or 1/4 mile. This is a natural. But where the next beam goes isn't so consistant. It could be fifty feet past the first beam or two feet. Or all the way at the end of the shut-down. If the car is still accelerating hard, a farther placed beam will record a higher speed than a closer set beam. Another factor is when the driver lifts. Is it immediately at the end of the 1/4 mile or a few feet past? And again, some tracks are simply slower than others.
Since the E/T's are consistant with each other and with similar cars, I doubt if he's laying down on the big end. I would look for signs of overheating during daily driving because at 115-122 mph, there tends to be good airflow through the radiator.
Ted
Drag racing is a game of fractions of a second. If one is to concentrate on their start line technique and shave their rt down to under .500, it means that they are launching harder. A hard launch is a quicker launch. A quicker launch means that they are moving faster when they break the staging lights--which they should be staged right at anyway (staging long always works against you.) And moving faster through the beams equates to a lower E/T. Practice, practice, practice your start line technique because in a computer controlled car like a modern SL, after 30 feet, your really just steering and keeping the throttle on the floor. I give start line technique and familiarity 0.35 seconds.
As for drag radials. Why do you avoid the bleach box with street tires? Because the aren't designed for drag use. By their very name, one can see that drag tires are. Get a good set of BFG's hot and sticky and another 0.4 can come off of one's timeslip. Again, this is on the launch. This is where drag races are won and lost.
Why do I give DR's an extra tenth over your 0.3? Because with very low profile tires as on an SL, there are very stiff sidewalls. A DR will not only have a sticky compound tread, but a softer sidewall for more "wrinkle" or bite. Look at the sidewalls of a Top-Fueler on launch to see what I mean.
Now as for the speed diffeence on the big end versus the 1/8 mile, I don't put that much concern into it. This has to do with timing light placement at different tracks. Being that the half-track E/T and speed are consistant with other cars so modified, as are the big end E/T is also, all seems well. All tracks place the first beam at the end of the teack at 1320-feet, or 1/4 mile. This is a natural. But where the next beam goes isn't so consistant. It could be fifty feet past the first beam or two feet. Or all the way at the end of the shut-down. If the car is still accelerating hard, a farther placed beam will record a higher speed than a closer set beam. Another factor is when the driver lifts. Is it immediately at the end of the 1/4 mile or a few feet past? And again, some tracks are simply slower than others.
Since the E/T's are consistant with each other and with similar cars, I doubt if he's laying down on the big end. I would look for signs of overheating during daily driving because at 115-122 mph, there tends to be good airflow through the radiator.
Ted
Last edited by theoallen; 08-26-2008 at 07:18 PM.
08-26-2008, 10:51 PM
#64
MBWorld Fanatic!
Technically that is correct. And my answer is sure to draw more fire. But it works like this...
Drag racing is a game of fractions of a second. If one is to concentrate on their start line technique and shave their rt down to under .500, it means that they are launching harder. A hard launch is a quicker launch. A quicker launch means that they are moving faster when they break the staging lights--which they should be staged right at anyway (staging long always works against you.) And moving faster through the beams equates to a lower E/T. Practice, practice, practice your start line technique because in a computer controlled car like a modern SL, after 30 feet, your really just steering and keeping the throttle on the floor. I give start line technique and familiarity 0.35 seconds.
As for drag radials. Why do you avoid the bleach box with street tires? Because the aren't designed for drag use. By their very name, one can see that drag tires are. Get a good set of BFG's hot and sticky and another 0.4 can come off of one's timeslip. Again, this is on the launch. This is where drag races are won and lost.
Why do I give DR's an extra tenth over your 0.3? Because with very low profile tires as on an SL, there are very stiff sidewalls. A DR will not only have a sticky compound tread, but a softer sidewall for more "wrinkle" or bite. Look at the sidewalls of a Top-Fueler on launch to see what I mean.
Now as for the speed diffeence on the big end versus the 1/8 mile, I don't put that much concern into it. This has to do with timing light placement at different tracks. Being that the half-track E/T and speed are consistant with other cars so modified, as are the big end E/T is also, all seems well. All tracks place the first beam at the end of the teack at 1320-feet, or 1/4 mile. This is a natural. But where the next beam goes isn't so consistant. It could be fifty feet past the first beam or two feet. Or all the way at the end of the shut-down. If the car is still accelerating hard, a farther placed beam will record a higher speed than a closer set beam. Another factor is when the driver lifts. Is it immediately at the end of the 1/4 mile or a few feet past? And again, some tracks are simply slower than others.
Since the E/T's are consistant with each other and with similar cars, I doubt if he's laying down on the big end. I would look for signs of overheating during daily driving because at 115-122 mph, there tends to be good airflow through the radiator.
Ted
Drag racing is a game of fractions of a second. If one is to concentrate on their start line technique and shave their rt down to under .500, it means that they are launching harder. A hard launch is a quicker launch. A quicker launch means that they are moving faster when they break the staging lights--which they should be staged right at anyway (staging long always works against you.) And moving faster through the beams equates to a lower E/T. Practice, practice, practice your start line technique because in a computer controlled car like a modern SL, after 30 feet, your really just steering and keeping the throttle on the floor. I give start line technique and familiarity 0.35 seconds.
As for drag radials. Why do you avoid the bleach box with street tires? Because the aren't designed for drag use. By their very name, one can see that drag tires are. Get a good set of BFG's hot and sticky and another 0.4 can come off of one's timeslip. Again, this is on the launch. This is where drag races are won and lost.
Why do I give DR's an extra tenth over your 0.3? Because with very low profile tires as on an SL, there are very stiff sidewalls. A DR will not only have a sticky compound tread, but a softer sidewall for more "wrinkle" or bite. Look at the sidewalls of a Top-Fueler on launch to see what I mean.
Now as for the speed diffeence on the big end versus the 1/8 mile, I don't put that much concern into it. This has to do with timing light placement at different tracks. Being that the half-track E/T and speed are consistant with other cars so modified, as are the big end E/T is also, all seems well. All tracks place the first beam at the end of the teack at 1320-feet, or 1/4 mile. This is a natural. But where the next beam goes isn't so consistant. It could be fifty feet past the first beam or two feet. Or all the way at the end of the shut-down. If the car is still accelerating hard, a farther placed beam will record a higher speed than a closer set beam. Another factor is when the driver lifts. Is it immediately at the end of the 1/4 mile or a few feet past? And again, some tracks are simply slower than others.
Since the E/T's are consistant with each other and with similar cars, I doubt if he's laying down on the big end. I would look for signs of overheating during daily driving because at 115-122 mph, there tends to be good airflow through the radiator.
Ted
Wow...that was pretty verbose reply...too bad it is mostly misguided. Do me a favor...go and look at all the best 600 and 65 (S, CL and SL) times on drag times. You will see what I am talking about with his speed falling down on the last 660 ft. Yes there is tons of airflow...but do you know where the Intercoolers are on your V12TT? They are nowhere near where the airflow is. The airflow only helps if you have a decent sized heat exchanger (65's are much larger than the 600's), the IC pump is fully operational and system is devoid of air pockets or other obstructions. Otherwise the heat exchanger is useless if the coolant is not flowing. The "overheating" you are referring to has nothing to do with the intercoolers not getting enough coolant. The "overheating" I am talking about is the type that causes the electronic nanny to cut boost because it is seeing elevated intake temps with no help from the intercoolers.
I can't imagine that on every run he lifted immediately before the timing light for trap speed. As far as I know..all real drag tracks put the first light 60' BEFORE the 1/4 mile end and are averaging it over the remainder of the 1/4 mile. I could be wrong...but please offer some proof to your assertion.
Getting back to original contention that reaction time is important...are you for real? I am not saying "come out of the blocks slow"....it is a matter of launching hard WHEN you decide to come of the line. Check the reaction times on the some of the best MB timeslips on drag times...you will notice that more often than not...the reaction time will be "terrible" because they are shooting for the best ET...and not trying to time the tree. They are not interdependent. As for shaving .4 seconds or more...he had a 1.8X 60' time...there really isn't much room for improvement off the line...maybe .2-.3 sec with drag radial and .1 sec without...after the 60' mark these V12TT are still a handful to get down the track without spinning.
Tom
Last edited by TMC M5; 08-26-2008 at 10:54 PM.
08-28-2008, 09:28 PM
#65
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First off, the intercoolers are air/water types that could be mounted anywhere, including the trunk. The water is cooled by radiators which depend on airflow through the front. That was my point.
As for start line technique, I stand by my assertion that this is where races are one and lost. If you care to sit at a green light while you finish your latte and call your mistress, yes you can still cut an 11-second pass. As I wrote in the previous post, "practice, practice, practice..."
No, I wont compare it to other MB's at the track because the damned things weigh 4500 pounds and are driven by part time novices. Compare it to a 2900 pound mid-80's Mustang and see the 60-foot times for a 116 mph pass.
With 600-plus net horsepower backed by 700-plus pounds of tourque, there is more than enough power here to see the 10's.
If there was a 66 Nova running high 11's at 116 mph, you'd have a happy owner. That would have a 450 horse motor and a chassis that is hooking a lot better.
As for the "timing the tree," again my assertion was simply pay attention, practice and concentrate. Things I have taught many through the years and that clearly bring down an et. If you are sitting there at the light when it goes green and are content with a lousy rt, then you are playing brain games with yourself and not getting the job done.
Concentrate on the task at hand, get an attitude about it, and you will go faster. Period.
As for start line technique, I stand by my assertion that this is where races are one and lost. If you care to sit at a green light while you finish your latte and call your mistress, yes you can still cut an 11-second pass. As I wrote in the previous post, "practice, practice, practice..."
No, I wont compare it to other MB's at the track because the damned things weigh 4500 pounds and are driven by part time novices. Compare it to a 2900 pound mid-80's Mustang and see the 60-foot times for a 116 mph pass.
With 600-plus net horsepower backed by 700-plus pounds of tourque, there is more than enough power here to see the 10's.
If there was a 66 Nova running high 11's at 116 mph, you'd have a happy owner. That would have a 450 horse motor and a chassis that is hooking a lot better.
As for the "timing the tree," again my assertion was simply pay attention, practice and concentrate. Things I have taught many through the years and that clearly bring down an et. If you are sitting there at the light when it goes green and are content with a lousy rt, then you are playing brain games with yourself and not getting the job done.
Concentrate on the task at hand, get an attitude about it, and you will go faster. Period.
08-29-2008, 01:36 AM
#66
MBWorld Fanatic!
First off, the intercoolers are air/water types that could be mounted anywhere, including the trunk. The water is cooled by radiators which depend on airflow through the front. That was my point.
As for start line technique, I stand by my assertion that this is where races are one and lost. If you care to sit at a green light while you finish your latte and call your mistress, yes you can still cut an 11-second pass. As I wrote in the previous post, "practice, practice, practice..."
No, I wont compare it to other MB's at the track because the damned things weigh 4500 pounds and are driven by part time novices. Compare it to a 2900 pound mid-80's Mustang and see the 60-foot times for a 116 mph pass.
With 600-plus net horsepower backed by 700-plus pounds of tourque, there is more than enough power here to see the 10's.
If there was a 66 Nova running high 11's at 116 mph, you'd have a happy owner. That would have a 450 horse motor and a chassis that is hooking a lot better.
As for the "timing the tree," again my assertion was simply pay attention, practice and concentrate. Things I have taught many through the years and that clearly bring down an et. If you are sitting there at the light when it goes green and are content with a lousy rt, then you are playing brain games with yourself and not getting the job done.
Concentrate on the task at hand, get an attitude about it, and you will go faster. Period.
As for start line technique, I stand by my assertion that this is where races are one and lost. If you care to sit at a green light while you finish your latte and call your mistress, yes you can still cut an 11-second pass. As I wrote in the previous post, "practice, practice, practice..."
No, I wont compare it to other MB's at the track because the damned things weigh 4500 pounds and are driven by part time novices. Compare it to a 2900 pound mid-80's Mustang and see the 60-foot times for a 116 mph pass.
With 600-plus net horsepower backed by 700-plus pounds of tourque, there is more than enough power here to see the 10's.
If there was a 66 Nova running high 11's at 116 mph, you'd have a happy owner. That would have a 450 horse motor and a chassis that is hooking a lot better.
As for the "timing the tree," again my assertion was simply pay attention, practice and concentrate. Things I have taught many through the years and that clearly bring down an et. If you are sitting there at the light when it goes green and are content with a lousy rt, then you are playing brain games with yourself and not getting the job done.
Concentrate on the task at hand, get an attitude about it, and you will go faster. Period.
Have you data logged the intake temps and boost levels of your car? I have with the help of my friend who is far from a "part-time novice" even though he takes his MB to the track. My IC pump was shot and my car was making far below the boost it should have been making when we data logged it. We data logged the car again with a healthy IC pump. Intake temps shot down and boost shot up. These cars are very sensitive to intake temps and the electronics will kill your times if things aren't right.
You obviously know more than anyone else because you tracked American muscle cars.
There are so many owners on this board who have drag experience and tons of seat time at the track...but you deride them as "part-time novices". I didn't realize we had John Force in our midst. 
Let me ask you...do mid 80's Mustangs have torque limiters built into the ECU and TCU? The answer is no (yes I had a mid 80's Mustang along with a 65 Mustang with a 460big block and a 68 Fastback with a 390 big block). I am sorry to inform you...but the only thing to compare these to ...is other MB's driven by a bunch of part-time novices...
Good luck with delusions....just try to keep the bad advice to a minimum.
Tom
Last edited by TMC M5; 08-29-2008 at 10:10 AM.
08-29-2008, 10:48 AM
#67
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05 C55
First off, the intercoolers are air/water types that could be mounted anywhere, including the trunk. The water is cooled by radiators which depend on airflow through the front. That was my point.
As for start line technique, I stand by my assertion that this is where races are one and lost. If you care to sit at a green light while you finish your latte and call your mistress, yes you can still cut an 11-second pass. As I wrote in the previous post, "practice, practice, practice..."
No, I wont compare it to other MB's at the track because the damned things weigh 4500 pounds and are driven by part time novices. Compare it to a 2900 pound mid-80's Mustang and see the 60-foot times for a 116 mph pass.
With 600-plus net horsepower backed by 700-plus pounds of tourque, there is more than enough power here to see the 10's.
If there was a 66 Nova running high 11's at 116 mph, you'd have a happy owner. That would have a 450 horse motor and a chassis that is hooking a lot better.
As for the "timing the tree," again my assertion was simply pay attention, practice and concentrate. Things I have taught many through the years and that clearly bring down an et. If you are sitting there at the light when it goes green and are content with a lousy rt, then you are playing brain games with yourself and not getting the job done.
Concentrate on the task at hand, get an attitude about it, and you will go faster. Period.
As for start line technique, I stand by my assertion that this is where races are one and lost. If you care to sit at a green light while you finish your latte and call your mistress, yes you can still cut an 11-second pass. As I wrote in the previous post, "practice, practice, practice..."
No, I wont compare it to other MB's at the track because the damned things weigh 4500 pounds and are driven by part time novices. Compare it to a 2900 pound mid-80's Mustang and see the 60-foot times for a 116 mph pass.
With 600-plus net horsepower backed by 700-plus pounds of tourque, there is more than enough power here to see the 10's.
If there was a 66 Nova running high 11's at 116 mph, you'd have a happy owner. That would have a 450 horse motor and a chassis that is hooking a lot better.
As for the "timing the tree," again my assertion was simply pay attention, practice and concentrate. Things I have taught many through the years and that clearly bring down an et. If you are sitting there at the light when it goes green and are content with a lousy rt, then you are playing brain games with yourself and not getting the job done.
Concentrate on the task at hand, get an attitude about it, and you will go faster. Period.
08-29-2008, 12:11 PM
#68
MBWorld Fanatic!
First off, the intercoolers are air/water types that could be mounted anywhere, including the trunk. The water is cooled by radiators which depend on airflow through the front. That was my point.
As for start line technique, I stand by my assertion that this is where races are one and lost. If you care to sit at a green light while you finish your latte and call your mistress, yes you can still cut an 11-second pass. As I wrote in the previous post, "practice, practice, practice..."
No, I wont compare it to other MB's at the track because the damned things weigh 4500 pounds and are driven by part time novices. Compare it to a 2900 pound mid-80's Mustang and see the 60-foot times for a 116 mph pass.
With 600-plus net horsepower backed by 700-plus pounds of tourque, there is more than enough power here to see the 10's.
If there was a 66 Nova running high 11's at 116 mph, you'd have a happy owner. That would have a 450 horse motor and a chassis that is hooking a lot better.
As for the "timing the tree," again my assertion was simply pay attention, practice and concentrate. Things I have taught many through the years and that clearly bring down an et. If you are sitting there at the light when it goes green and are content with a lousy rt, then you are playing brain games with yourself and not getting the job done.
Concentrate on the task at hand, get an attitude about it, and you will go faster. Period.
As for start line technique, I stand by my assertion that this is where races are one and lost. If you care to sit at a green light while you finish your latte and call your mistress, yes you can still cut an 11-second pass. As I wrote in the previous post, "practice, practice, practice..."
No, I wont compare it to other MB's at the track because the damned things weigh 4500 pounds and are driven by part time novices. Compare it to a 2900 pound mid-80's Mustang and see the 60-foot times for a 116 mph pass.
With 600-plus net horsepower backed by 700-plus pounds of tourque, there is more than enough power here to see the 10's.
If there was a 66 Nova running high 11's at 116 mph, you'd have a happy owner. That would have a 450 horse motor and a chassis that is hooking a lot better.
As for the "timing the tree," again my assertion was simply pay attention, practice and concentrate. Things I have taught many through the years and that clearly bring down an et. If you are sitting there at the light when it goes green and are content with a lousy rt, then you are playing brain games with yourself and not getting the job done.
Concentrate on the task at hand, get an attitude about it, and you will go faster. Period.
I agree about the practice and about the r/t. However calling drivers novices simply because the track the cars a few times per year is silly. Many drivers of Mercedes Benz also own purpose built dragsters. In the Summit Series my Benz was more than capable of going deep in the rounds, its the driver not the car. Anyone who takes an interest can become skilled at drag racing with proper seat time and intimate knowledge of the car.
good luck
08-30-2008, 09:32 AM
#69
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2005 SL600 RENNtech
Thank you
Tom and others: Many thanks on the advice. Obviously there is room for differences of opinion even among knowledgeable people.
For right now, I've decided that I need to upgrade the intercooler/heat exchanger, follow your advice about the suspension/ride height settings, get more experience with launching, switch to the Kleeman Stage 2 LSD, and I'm going to try using unleaded race gas. I don't want to use drag radials unless I'm unable to get the time below 11 secs otherwise.
I'll keep you posted on how this goes.
Again, it's been very helpful and I'm appreciative of those who've taken the time to contribute to this discussion.
For right now, I've decided that I need to upgrade the intercooler/heat exchanger, follow your advice about the suspension/ride height settings, get more experience with launching, switch to the Kleeman Stage 2 LSD, and I'm going to try using unleaded race gas. I don't want to use drag radials unless I'm unable to get the time below 11 secs otherwise.
I'll keep you posted on how this goes.
Again, it's been very helpful and I'm appreciative of those who've taken the time to contribute to this discussion.
09-02-2008, 12:55 PM
#70
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Back to the beginning of the thread, finally got a chance to make a call. I have my "after" dyno scheduled for Thursday, 1pm ET. Let the predictions begin...
09-02-2008, 04:44 PM
#72
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09-03-2008, 11:28 PM
#74
Senior Member
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Yes, definitely enjoying the enhanced performance. Biggest differences noticed are from a dig, and when I drop the hammer around 60mph. I'm sure it's across the band, but I only had a week or two behind the car to get a feel for the "before" performance...
09-04-2008, 11:00 AM
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SL55AMG, Ferrari 348, Ferrari Testarossa, Ferrari F40, Ferrari Mondial t, Ducati 916, Indycar
That sounds similar to our set up. If there is more power, across a wider band, that definitely makes it more fun!
