SL/R230: SL500 LIGHTS WON'T WORK
#1
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SL500 LIGHTS WON'T WORK
HELP HERE!!!!!! I'LL TURN ON MY CAR AND PLACE THE LIGHT SWITCH ON AUTO AND ONLY MY RIGHT SIDE XENON LOW BEAM WORKS, ONLY MY LEFT SIDE FOG AND BLINKERS AND HIGH BEAM WORKS. ANYONE HAD SIMILAR PROBLEM. IT WAS FINE YESTERDAY NIGHT WHEN I PARKED, I DIDN'T USE IT BECAUSE IT WAS RAINING , SO THE NEXT DAY AFTER NOON IT HAPPEN . HELP HELP !!!!
Last edited by m4xm1l10n; 11-06-2008 at 05:47 PM.
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CL500 216
On a 5000 mile trip I had silly things happen that all went away after a few miles driving, put the car on STAR and no communication with passenger SAM,, took it out and all badly corroded, bought a new one and still had the same faults, test again and drivers side SAM no good replaced that and all is well.
I cant work out how water got in, the other things were dry and no water marks. OK the SAM's do get hot, was this condensation,, possible the thing that started mine of was when I washed it with a high pressure washer and did water get in through the side grill, the car was very hot when I did this.
I fix mine my self with no problems,, talking to my local dealer,,he has sold 193 this year and that is just for one tiny area of the UK. This is mine
![](http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/television_02/DSC00139.jpg)
Do make sure that the lids are fixed down on both boxes
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#9
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How did I know,,just been there and done it.
On a 5000 mile trip I had silly things happen that all went away after a few miles driving, put the car on STAR and no communication with passenger SAM,, took it out and all badly corroded, bought a new one and still had the same faults, test again and drivers side SAM no good replaced that and all is well.
I cant work out how water got in, the other things were dry and no water marks. OK the SAM's do get hot, was this condensation,, possible the thing that started mine of was when I washed it with a high pressure washer and did water get in through the side grill, the car was very hot when I did this.
I fix mine my self with no problems,, talking to my local dealer,,he has sold 193 this year and that is just for one tiny area of the UK. This is mine
![](http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/television_02/DSC00139.jpg)
Do make sure that the lids are fixed down on both boxes
On a 5000 mile trip I had silly things happen that all went away after a few miles driving, put the car on STAR and no communication with passenger SAM,, took it out and all badly corroded, bought a new one and still had the same faults, test again and drivers side SAM no good replaced that and all is well.
I cant work out how water got in, the other things were dry and no water marks. OK the SAM's do get hot, was this condensation,, possible the thing that started mine of was when I washed it with a high pressure washer and did water get in through the side grill, the car was very hot when I did this.
I fix mine my self with no problems,, talking to my local dealer,,he has sold 193 this year and that is just for one tiny area of the UK. This is mine
![](http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/television_02/DSC00139.jpg)
Do make sure that the lids are fixed down on both boxes
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Last edited by m4xm1l10n; 11-11-2008 at 06:10 PM.
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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Posts: 379
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CL500 216
Electronics is my game,,58 years of it![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The worst corrosion was inside the SAM, but to small to photo graph. now a few years back the PCB's were heavily lacquered, and no electrical path due to moisture could take place on the components on the PCB
This still leaves the plugs and sockets, spraying them with Silicon or PTFE would stop the corrosion from taking place on the pins.
There is little point in spraying a sealer onto the PCB as you cannot get under the pins on the muti connectors.
WATER
No way did water get in,nothing else in the boxes had any corrosion or water marks of any kind, not even one stain in the bottom of the boxes. These SAM's do run hot,, OK so we may have a humidity problem, My next thoughts were mounting a computer fan onto the side of the boxes, or stuffing them with some silica gel packets. I will do something, but do not know what as yet.
The Passenger SAM was the one with the corrosion on it, the drivers side SAM had no corrosion anywhere and it was the passenger side one that blew this one.
Our cars have 3 SAM's one in each fuse box and one at the rear behind the seat
The drivers SAM is easy to take out with plenty of room, the passenger one is a pig,,the fuse holders and relays must be removed and you have little room to work as the hood hinge is in the way and the starter battery must be removed.
Both SAM.s control things like Lamps, horn,Air con,warning lamps, ABC,wipers and more. What happens is that after a cold start the car does not know what it has got and random faults show up on the cluster, in my case the faulty lamp would come up,or parking brake on,,simply by turning everything on the car found what it had got and the warnings would go away, but when the air con gets switched off,,that can only be turned on in STAR.
Doing all myself cost me £500 $500 I have used the term passenger and drivers side as LHD cars are reversed in the front 2, this caused a major headache here in the UK so do not refer to them as left hand or right hand.
The corrosion in mine must have been going on for years,, it was only when high pressure washed that it started to show, and the car was very warm at the time, the electric cables go out to the ABC from the passenger SAM box, my thought are that if water got into the bottom where the wires come out under the wheel arch liner, to where the ABC valve block sits, this would allow warm damp air to rise into the fuse box
I will take off the wheel arch liner shortly to see if the exit can be sealed off
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The worst corrosion was inside the SAM, but to small to photo graph. now a few years back the PCB's were heavily lacquered, and no electrical path due to moisture could take place on the components on the PCB
This still leaves the plugs and sockets, spraying them with Silicon or PTFE would stop the corrosion from taking place on the pins.
There is little point in spraying a sealer onto the PCB as you cannot get under the pins on the muti connectors.
WATER
No way did water get in,nothing else in the boxes had any corrosion or water marks of any kind, not even one stain in the bottom of the boxes. These SAM's do run hot,, OK so we may have a humidity problem, My next thoughts were mounting a computer fan onto the side of the boxes, or stuffing them with some silica gel packets. I will do something, but do not know what as yet.
The Passenger SAM was the one with the corrosion on it, the drivers side SAM had no corrosion anywhere and it was the passenger side one that blew this one.
Our cars have 3 SAM's one in each fuse box and one at the rear behind the seat
The drivers SAM is easy to take out with plenty of room, the passenger one is a pig,,the fuse holders and relays must be removed and you have little room to work as the hood hinge is in the way and the starter battery must be removed.
Both SAM.s control things like Lamps, horn,Air con,warning lamps, ABC,wipers and more. What happens is that after a cold start the car does not know what it has got and random faults show up on the cluster, in my case the faulty lamp would come up,or parking brake on,,simply by turning everything on the car found what it had got and the warnings would go away, but when the air con gets switched off,,that can only be turned on in STAR.
Doing all myself cost me £500 $500 I have used the term passenger and drivers side as LHD cars are reversed in the front 2, this caused a major headache here in the UK so do not refer to them as left hand or right hand.
The corrosion in mine must have been going on for years,, it was only when high pressure washed that it started to show, and the car was very warm at the time, the electric cables go out to the ABC from the passenger SAM box, my thought are that if water got into the bottom where the wires come out under the wheel arch liner, to where the ABC valve block sits, this would allow warm damp air to rise into the fuse box
I will take off the wheel arch liner shortly to see if the exit can be sealed off
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Electronics is my game,,58 years of it![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The worst corrosion was inside the SAM, but to small to photo graph. now a few years back the PCB's were heavily lacquered, and no electrical path due to moisture could take place on the components on the PCB
This still leaves the plugs and sockets, spraying them with Silicon or PTFE would stop the corrosion from taking place on the pins.
There is little point in spraying a sealer onto the PCB as you cannot get under the pins on the muti connectors.
WATER
No way did water get in,nothing else in the boxes had any corrosion or water marks of any kind, not even one stain in the bottom of the boxes. These SAM's do run hot,, OK so we may have a humidity problem, My next thoughts were mounting a computer fan onto the side of the boxes, or stuffing them with some silica gel packets. I will do something, but do not know what as yet.
The Passenger SAM was the one with the corrosion on it, the drivers side SAM had no corrosion anywhere and it was the passenger side one that blew this one.
Our cars have 3 SAM's one in each fuse box and one at the rear behind the seat
The drivers SAM is easy to take out with plenty of room, the passenger one is a pig,,the fuse holders and relays must be removed and you have little room to work as the hood hinge is in the way and the starter battery must be removed.
Both SAM.s control things like Lamps, horn,Air con,warning lamps, ABC,wipers and more. What happens is that after a cold start the car does not know what it has got and random faults show up on the cluster, in my case the faulty lamp would come up,or parking brake on,,simply by turning everything on the car found what it had got and the warnings would go away, but when the air con gets switched off,,that can only be turned on in STAR.
Doing all myself cost me £500 $500 I have used the term passenger and drivers side as LHD cars are reversed in the front 2, this caused a major headache here in the UK so do not refer to them as left hand or right hand.
The corrosion in mine must have been going on for years,, it was only when high pressure washed that it started to show, and the car was very warm at the time, the electric cables go out to the ABC from the passenger SAM box, my thought are that if water got into the bottom where the wires come out under the wheel arch liner, to where the ABC valve block sits, this would allow warm damp air to rise into the fuse box
I will take off the wheel arch liner shortly to see if the exit can be sealed off
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The worst corrosion was inside the SAM, but to small to photo graph. now a few years back the PCB's were heavily lacquered, and no electrical path due to moisture could take place on the components on the PCB
This still leaves the plugs and sockets, spraying them with Silicon or PTFE would stop the corrosion from taking place on the pins.
There is little point in spraying a sealer onto the PCB as you cannot get under the pins on the muti connectors.
WATER
No way did water get in,nothing else in the boxes had any corrosion or water marks of any kind, not even one stain in the bottom of the boxes. These SAM's do run hot,, OK so we may have a humidity problem, My next thoughts were mounting a computer fan onto the side of the boxes, or stuffing them with some silica gel packets. I will do something, but do not know what as yet.
The Passenger SAM was the one with the corrosion on it, the drivers side SAM had no corrosion anywhere and it was the passenger side one that blew this one.
Our cars have 3 SAM's one in each fuse box and one at the rear behind the seat
The drivers SAM is easy to take out with plenty of room, the passenger one is a pig,,the fuse holders and relays must be removed and you have little room to work as the hood hinge is in the way and the starter battery must be removed.
Both SAM.s control things like Lamps, horn,Air con,warning lamps, ABC,wipers and more. What happens is that after a cold start the car does not know what it has got and random faults show up on the cluster, in my case the faulty lamp would come up,or parking brake on,,simply by turning everything on the car found what it had got and the warnings would go away, but when the air con gets switched off,,that can only be turned on in STAR.
Doing all myself cost me £500 $500 I have used the term passenger and drivers side as LHD cars are reversed in the front 2, this caused a major headache here in the UK so do not refer to them as left hand or right hand.
The corrosion in mine must have been going on for years,, it was only when high pressure washed that it started to show, and the car was very warm at the time, the electric cables go out to the ABC from the passenger SAM box, my thought are that if water got into the bottom where the wires come out under the wheel arch liner, to where the ABC valve block sits, this would allow warm damp air to rise into the fuse box
I will take off the wheel arch liner shortly to see if the exit can be sealed off
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)