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Hi - I'm about to do this fix. I'm wondering why the bb's are there. If they are just to seal with pressure, why have them at all... Maybe something to do with atmospheric pressure in the mountains of Germany ???
Perhaps they're the ports used in the injection moulding process. In any case they're dead ends that were plugged at manufacturing stage, now giving us trouble...
Hey, I wonder if this would also work if my central lock system is not working. About a few weeks ago I went to take the car out for a cruise on a nice sunny day after a couple of weeks of rain and the car sitting in my garage, I noticed that my doors were not unlocking with the remote so I thought the rear battery was dead or needed a charge. I used the manual key to access the boot, took the battery home and left it for a full charge until the next day I went to re-install the battery and my boot wasn't opening with the key manually. So basically after trying for an hour straight to somehow make it work and get into the boot, I realized the only option is to break the 3rd brake light and find my access in through that, which did work so I was able to put the acc battery back in and started the car then took it on a long drive to make sure nothing was out of line. I came back home after a couple of hours yet still my central locking system didn't work nor did my boot using the button inside the car, the button on the key fob, the latch and not even the manual key. Now I am wondering if your method could be the fix to my problem or not and that I am dealing with a more complicated problem perhaps the PSE pump has blown or it's not creating enough pressure. However, I should also mention that every time I operate any of the buttons that has to do with all the above actions I do hear a click sound coming from the PSE pump in the boot, not sure if it's a good sign but worth mentioning.
Any help/suggestion would be greatly appreciated. thanks everyone!
Hey, I wonder if this would also work if my central lock system is not working. About a few weeks ago I went to take the car out for a cruise on a nice sunny day after a couple of weeks of rain and the car sitting in my garage, I noticed that my doors were not unlocking with the remote so I thought the rear battery was dead or needed a charge. I used the manual key to access the boot, took the battery home and left it for a full charge until the next day I went to re-install the battery and my boot wasn't opening with the key manually. So basically after trying for an hour straight to somehow make it work and get into the boot, I realized the only option is to break the 3rd brake light and find my access in through that, which did work so I was able to put the acc battery back in and started the car then took it on a long drive to make sure nothing was out of line. I came back home after a couple of hours yet still my central locking system didn't work nor did my boot using the button inside the car, the button on the key fob, the latch and not even the manual key. Now I am wondering if your method could be the fix to my problem or not and that I am dealing with a more complicated problem perhaps the PSE pump has blown or it's not creating enough pressure. However, I should also mention that every time I operate any of the buttons that has to do with all the above actions I do hear a click sound coming from the PSE pump in the boot, not sure if it's a good sign but worth mentioning.
Any help/suggestion would be greatly appreciated. thanks everyone!
Sina
My door locks weren't working right & also my lights were not flashing when I locked the trunk, so I think they are all tied together. I'm not sure if there is only one air pump, or if there are complementary pumps, but after I sealed the trunk latch tubes, everything worked right...
I have 2009 SL63 with Auto Close. Intermittently, when I close the trunk the red light on the driver's door is lit. When it is lit, I would re-open and trunk and close it and the light would go off. I have read a lot of posts regarding the soft close issue and from what I have read, when there is a soft close issue, you have to reset the PSE Pump by disconnecting the negative cable on the convenience battery to re-enable the PSE Pump (it is possible I misunderstood this). Note: I have never had to reset the PSE Pump whenever this is happening. So, do I have a soft close issue or is it something else?
In the event I do have a soft close issue, I have read the DIY FIX. When doing the fix after testing for leakage, do I need to disconnect the negative battery or pulling the fuse would be sufficient?
Has anybody with the Auto Close feature done DIY FIX? Are the steps the same for cars with Non-Auto Close and Auto Close? With the Auto-Close feature, I would think that disconnecting the cable from the switch would have to be done unless you are disconnecting the convenience battery.
What type of epoxy you guys are using? I find the surface of the soft close unit very hard and smooth which doesn't allow for good long term bond.
Did anyone experiment with melting solutions?
I was having problems with my trunk not opening with the switch on the drivers door, took it into my mechanic and he replaced the whole module before I could tell him about this post. A new one cost a bit over $500 but now it works soft close perfectly. I don't se the purpose of the soft close feature on the trunk lid, is it really that hard to close? it just adds complexity and weight, something else to go wrong.
Hi I have a 2020 Mercedes-Benz SL 550. If your Park button is coming delaminated like mine was, you can find a replacement button that looks fabulous on eBay, ( Mercedes Benz SL park button) or go to FixRite.us After using the button Before using the button
Little off topic but seems to be some knowledgeable people on here. Just replaced PSE to fix trunk close and door lock issue. Trunk closes by pushing red button as it should but still get trunk open warning if I don’t assist (lightly slam) it when it closes. Is this a sensor issue or does the soft close latch cause this. Car is 2011 SL 550