DallasDomn8er

Also please recommend best sounding muffler replacement for the SL600 as well as any nose body carbon fiber options out there. Thanks.

NEMES1S

Is this the part number? I tried to get it fixed under warranty and they didn't get it figure out. I was just going to have the part replaced instead of mess with it.

rredmeier

I did take the closure off and glued all the ball bearings as recommended. The trunk closes every time until I open the convertable top and then the trunck lid will not close unless I disconnect the battery cable and reconnect. Does anyone have a solution.

SL502

Trunk problems !
How do I open the trunk with no battery power on consuming battery?How do I charge the battery without coming into the trunk?No engine runing at the moment,and no manual key(03 SL 55)

iburnslabs

just wanted to say thanks to the OP for diong this write up! just aquired my 06 sl65 and my trunk started having issues, fixed it yesterday saved me hundreds! thanks!!

Helgaard

Hi I have had endless problems with my trunk lid not soft closing, I have even replaced the trunk latch - but no luck. It works a couple of times and then stops. On the STAR it says timeout or time exceeded. Any ideas?

CorAegean

Did this today on my newly-acquired '03. Red "Close boot lid" indicator kept staying lit on instrument panel, not allowing top to open. As soon as the repaired latch re-installed, everything began to work properly. Just one question, only FMI: the bbs were there to "intermittently" plug the ports, but I'm thinking they were supposed to "float back in" to the ports at times to let air in, or release vacuum pressure. If that is a correct assumption, then the fix eliminates half of the function of the ports. Is there any downrange side effect of doing this? Or just Deutche uber-engineering? -- Also, thanks much, Nick, for this great info!

Here's my new wheels (Sun, 01/27/13, Collierville, TN):

fergsonfire

I finally got around to doing this last night and saw that one of the plastic "pipes" was basically cracked in half for about a 1/4". I broke out the JB Weld and sealed that baby up and it works like a champ! Thanks for the info.

nassau98

Great post, thanks!

I thought reading it would help with my issue, but no luck yet. I've had to install a new vacuum pump and after doing so the door locks and the soft trunk close won't work. I don't think there's a leak in the vacuum system. Is it possible that the system needs to be reset by the dealer?

(Incidentally the radio is also on the fritz and shuts off after 10-15 seconds)

Stricko

Anyone in the UK / Europe done this that can recommend a brand of epoxy? Don't use Araldite, it just peels off the plastic.....

kabirjt

Excellent post. Many thanks to the original poster. I did this today.

Stricko

Havn't had any response to my question, but reassembled the mechanism to get the car back on the road, and IT WORKS!!!! Maybe the Araldite is just adhereing to the ball bearings, but what the heck, the trunk/boot closer is back in business.

Many thanks to all involved in this.

EDIT: a few days later. Spoke too soon. Damn thing has packed up again. Left car parked with roof down, and roof wouldnt close cause it thought the trunk was open. Major rainstorm appraoching, so had to borrow a spanner to quickly disconnect the battery, reset the system, and get the roof up. Getting fed up with this now. Havn't had chance to open it all up to see if the Araldite has failed.

ldam

All,

my SL500 occasionally not closing the lid properly, which after following tips on this forum I found a leak on 1 of the ports on the latch mechanism and sealed it and the remaining ports (to be safe) and now it seems to close & lock properly. But it won't pop the trunk open anymore. I've also reset the service battery many times but no luck. Notice, I have to use the mechanical key to open the trunk. Any ideas of why the trunk won't pop open ? Please help.

Many thanks.
ld

Rafdaddy

Man you really know how to make a post. With the pictures there is no question how to fix this. I wish there were pictures with all recommended repairs. I just purchased a 2004 SL500 and have a lot of the components not working since I replaced the rear battery.

Thanks again.

rlomerson

I have a 2004 SL600. The soft close feature stopped working. I removed the 20 amp fuse and placed it back in a few minutes later and it started to work properly again. I cycled opening and closing the trunk about a dozen times and then it stopped working again. Did the 20 amp fuse removal thing again and it stated to work again, and then after about a dozen open and close trials, it stopped. I removed the unit per some of the recommended threads about gluing the ports, and what I found was a unit that look practically new with no apparent cracks, etc. I did not apply any glue, put everything back together, removed the 20 amp once again and it worked for about another dozen cycles and then stopped.

Any ideas? Seems like the unit works, but for only a short time.

khassis

Was it running when you tried it 12 times?

Rafdaddy

My 2004 500 SL also has a similar problem with opening or closing the top with the key at the door. I pull the 40 amp fuse behind passenger seat and it works for a few times only to quit again. I am not sure if it is air powered like the trunk. Of course when the key is on in the ignition it works fine with the top switch.

asfast

maybe pull the fuse when it's running ., I took mine to the dealer ., they noticed my glue everywhere and said there was no leaks anywhere. It worked for about 2 months after the Dealer gave the system a clean bill of health before it quit. On the left side in the trunk there is the motor/pump that operates the trunk assist and its under another component looks like a black box., I removed the black box, well pulled it to the side it has wire harness attached and accessed what looked like a hyd motor and unplugged it and it lasted about 2 months .., If I just unplugged the fuse and reset it there it only last about 10-12 times as stated above.

Rafdaddy

I will remove the fuze when it is running. I still need to glue up any leaks yet. I will be putting it away for the winter in a month or so and might just make it a spring project. Thanks asfast.

nealshields21

I have spent the afternoon fixing my wife's $100,000 car. Be sure to note there are at least TWO different problems. The clip holders on the black diaphragm motor break AND the plastic splits where they push the ball bearings in after the molding process. You must fix both. The black motor needs to be pushed together and held and the splits in the plastic need to be sealed. Do only one and you still have the problem. I have a small pressure / vacuum pump and was able to locate the leaks that way with leak detection soap.

I spent a great deal of time in the automotive accessory manufacturing business and we owned a large plastics molding shop. It looks to me like the design is fine but execution was flawed. They couldn't have passed ISO-9000 design verification and validation with what is on my car. Someone must have changed to a cheaper plastic after the design was qualified. For that reason I strongly suspect that replacing a bad part with a new one would just be replacing a bad part with a bad part. Too bad German engineers never make mistakes. If they did, they could fix them and have a really great automobile.

Classicracer

I need help with my wife's 2006 S500, The trunk switch on the driver door and fob, and the exterior trunk hand switch just stopped opening the trunk and we now have to use the hard key,
the trunk stopped the soft close about 5 months ago and I read the DIY on sealing the latch part #2207500185 and now the soft close is working again but the driver door switch and fob and trunk hand switch still won't open the trunk.

My question is does the rod get pushed from the part #2207500185 with the latch or does it get pulled from the hand switch part #2207501293?
The key tumbler (is attached to #2207501293) for the hard key pulls up on the rod freeing the latch. The MBz service said it is the latch side part #2207500185

I'm sorry I don't know the correct names for these parts but I do know I need to replace at least one of these and want your help to choose the right part.

dillch

My 2008 SL600 is getting stressed out! I used your posts to replace the third brake light. Ordered and replaced hardware for roof flap hanging down in truck. Removed and epoxied soft close truck latch. I estimate you saved me over $2000! Thanks for a great source for the upkeep of my beloved Mercedes!!!

Charles

hemps69

Awesome post, thanks for the insight and all your effort.

proformance1

Great info from everyone, Want to pass along what i found for my situation.
Issue i had glued all bb looking ports, trunk would try to close and then pop up at the point when it would latch, This would happen about 6 times and then stay down, showed boot open, what a few minutes then push down on trunk then ok.
Next step taken was to glue the outside of hockey puck thing that showed cracks.
Now i would keep pop up all the time, after pulling out some selective gray hairs next step was the PSE pump.
Tested latch again and noticed that the unit that opens latch the "hockey puck" looking thing was not retracted back, removed hose from unit and pressure released, removed hose and tested manually latch would now latch every time.
The hockey puck thing would bind the locking function must be a valve not releasing pressure somewhere.
Simple fix i did was to drill a small hole in rubber tube that feeds the hockey puck to release the pressure.
Not the best fix but for now i get to keep some hair on my head before pulling it all out or spending more money to keep this Awesome car on the road.
Hope this helps someone else!!!!!!

jdweber53

First time I have tried to do this hope it works. I have an 07 SL550. My trunk closes fine but will not open properly. TO open it I have to pull it up very hard. Because it will not automatically open the top is also not working. Any thoughts