Late

Decided to start configuring how I will be going about my new audio install. My first concern is the terrible bass with this bose system so this weekend I tore down the passenger foot well to see what is going on with the stock sub.


I am by no means a professional but I have a basic knowledge, and i'm trying to learn as i go. All of my friends are saying you can't just start splicing wires when you have a bose system but to me it looks like any other stock sub hookup that I've seen before?

My first question is Can i splice the connector seen in the bottom right hand corner of this pic and run some wires to the trunk for the sub enclosure I'm building? Id like to keep the stock bose sub where it is as well as add bump in the trunk.

In regards to hooking up the amp, Where exactly is the RCA output on the back of the stock deck? Also, do i need to remove the face to get at it or can it be reached by removing the side paneling in the passenger foot well? I really don't want to touch the center console so if i have to remove the face plate I may just bring it to a shop to get the Cables for the amp run...



Thanks in advance for any help!

amdeutsch

1) Its bass and not base
2) Very few factory subs look oval and tiny like that.
3) Why would you want RCA inputs when you need outputs to hook up an amp?

$0.02

Late

edited thanks!

Yea that thing is uber tiny... it's definitely the sub though because the enclosure is ported. I have read the AMG Fan thread a couple of times too

traumadoc

This may not help but I simply upgraded the amp to a JL and had them reconnect to all the stock speakers with a sub adjustment knob under the dash. The difference is significant.

JackStraw

Where is the amp located? How much did this run you?

rune solem

Hi, I have bought a Audison LRx 1.2k amp, and the Focal 46kx4 sub.

I was thinking to get the signal from the speaker cable going to the back speakers below the roll bar, so I bought a audison connection sli 2 high to low converter box to get the signal for the sub.

I haven't installed it yet but I hope it should work well.

I'm to afraid to mess with the original system in the car.

I heard that the bose sub has the signal out of phase??
Please check that if you add a signal from the sub connector.

Good luck with the job, hope you get it sounding great :-)


Rune

traumadoc

They mounted it very professionally behind the driver's seat in small case with matching carpet. One can access the adjustment screws easily by taking off a small faceplate. It was not cheap. Was over $1000 which also inculded the bass adjustment knob.

d3vil

if you read amgfan's threads.. u should know where the amp is
its behind the right seats... driver side for me as im RHD. its under that small lil box under the fuse box.

i went to 3 different audio shops wanting them to slice the wires for me so i can convert to RCA output.. but NONE of them were willing to do it .. i guess its a lot of work

i did this method for my VW jetta, Infiniti G35 before... but not this time, i gave up

NEMES1S

wow, those audio shops you went to suck....I did it in my garage with some help from a guy that works at an audio place, the signal from the factory amp to the stock sub is just like any other, I used a pac system to interface from hi to low, it was 40 bux and it is nice because when it is hooked to a constant power and ground it will create its own remote wire. I got the JL flat 13.5 in a custom fiberglass box, amp rack, all wiring, bass knob and a Kenwood XR-1S amp for 950, granted I got a great deal on the amp from Ebay, but it sounds incredible for the air space. I am considering getting a bit of polyfil in the box to change how it handles the air a bit.

A piece of advice, if you are going with the JL sub, be sure to buy the grille, you are going to need it, nobody seams to keep it in stock and you want to have it when you are figuring out what space you will need for installation.

d3vil

yeah i have to agree with you
its different here in HK regarding car enthusiasm
those guys just wanna make the most money in the shortest period of time

anyway, could you tell me more regarding the remote wire?
thx so much

NEMES1S

since there isn't an easy spot to tap in and get a remote wire, the pac hi to low converter I used hooks up to the power and ground at the battery in the trunk and it monitors the signal input and when it senses input it turns on a remote wire for the amp. This is a temporary thing as I am still planning to gut the system and start over, but the price I'm getting on thericker's old sport body stuff is going to eat up my stereo budget. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Late

any shot you took some pics during your install? Id love to see how you mounted everything

i was fukin around with the stock amp last night trying to figure out how i could get a bigger unit in that area without making in look Spanish but its not looking good. The shop I brought it to said that the won't work on the car because they have no experience with the Mercedes Command System.... Wack!

NEMES1S

I wish I would have, it is all pretty straight forward though. When you pull back the pass side carpet, the factory sub is right there with a harness that connects on the lower right side, those are the wires you use as the high input for your converter, I ran 2 sets of speaker wire from that point to the trunk by the battery, use one set to connect from the high to the converter in the trunk, the other will be for the sub, my amp is a reference series kenwood and is smaller than a piece of paper, so I mounted it on a pretty basic amp rack and mounted it vertically just behind where the front net is. I will try to get a picture or two of the amp rack, I apologize in advance that I haven't wrapped the rack with carpet yet, but my usual stereo shop has been waiting on a color match for that carpet to come through.

Late

So in my pic on the first post of this thread you are talking about that connector at the bottom right of the pic right?

Just spliced and extended those wires to the trunk?

That was my original plan of action

NEMES1S

you are correct sir. you can go either the route of removing the harness from the sub and using it as a connector, or you can just tap into the wire using some sort of wire T. I normally hate using wire T's but in this case I wanted to preserve the factory connection in case I sell it and want to re-install the factory sub. there are also some bracket behind the sub for the factory one, you will have to either bend it or cut it out, and there is a good amount of foam on the carpet you will need to trim. I probably lost about 2" of foot room, but I don't ride over there and it sounds incredible.

the only bad thing is I now really like my sub inside the cabin, and my other car has them in the trunk....