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Was enjoying a great ride in my 05 SL600 after passing smog test, along PCH through Huntington Beach, Newport CA, etc, enjoying the day, smokin an orange M3 along the way, then got home and a couple hours later saw crying leak of coolant on the drivers side front. Not much, maybe 1/2 cup or so came out on the ground, confirmed by looking at the fluid level. Took off the plastic at the bottom so I could look under, and I believe it may be this three pipe unit as shown in the photos. Anyone know what that unit is and if it may be an easy fix? I didn't look real close to see where it goes, but on each side of the car it is bolted down to the frame. I would have to take off the side plastic shield on the side to see where the pipes go, maybe tomorrow. Thanks.
from first pic, looks like actual leak comes from above...
I wondered that too, but looked pretty clean above for any hose leaks or anything. I will see if I can slip a mirror behind there tomorrow. Or may just need to let it run a bit and then take a look while it leaks. But I did notice something a little odd that day in that the temp gauge didn't go past 80 for a bit, and at the time I thought that was unusual, because after 10 minutes or so, I am always past 80. Didn't think anything about it at the time, but I now I remember that was out of the norm on my car anyway. Makes me now wonder if the radiator thermostat may be on that passenger side and is acting up and leaking. I suppose I need to see if I can look with a mirror, or how to remove more plastic. Had the water pump replaced about 6 mo ago, so it isn't that, and that is in a different area too.
After looking further, you are right, leak is coming from above, in the plastic to plastic connector as shown in the photo. I felt around by the hose in that area to be sure it was not coming from there, but the hose to plastic connection was dry. So in this plastic to plastic connection, maybe there is a gasket inside that needs replacing? I wonder if the smog test guys knocked that area, for instance looking at timing or something, or maybe it is just coincidental the leak just happened later after doing smog test.
After looking further, you are right, leak is coming from above, in the plastic to plastic connector as shown in the photo. I felt around by the hose in that area to be sure it was not coming from there, but the hose to plastic connection was dry. So in this plastic to plastic connection, maybe there is a gasket inside that needs replacing? I wonder if the smog test guys knocked that area, for instance looking at timing or something, or maybe it is just coincidental the leak just happened later after doing smog test.
Thanks, but I am more into exotics not that familiar with MBZ yet. Who is EPC, or website link? I wonder how that plastic part comes on and off. Looks like there is a metal clip on it, maybe needing a special tool?
Thanks, but I am more into exotics not that familiar with MBZ yet. Who is EPC, or website link? I wonder how that plastic part comes on and off. Looks like there is a metal clip on it, maybe needing a special tool?
Thanks for the EPC referral. As you said, it is probably the seal, which is what Fletcher Jones replied to as well ($7), but the parts department wasn't sure how to get the radiator hose/plastic unit on and off the radiator. To mee it seems like there is some clip there, but not sure if that is holding it on or not. Maybe the hose/plastic unit just screws on. I will see if I can find a good photo of one and see what it looks like inside.
Still wondering how the upper hose disconnects and connects. Seems like maybe it slips on and then there is a metal clip around 1/2 of the plastic (see photo of bottom hose, but it is the same set up as the upper hose). Just not sure how to get it off and then on again. Going to pick up the $7 seal tomorrow that I suppose sits inside the unit.
See attached parts diagram from the EPC. The part that you most likely will pickup is #75 which is an O-Ring. The complete hose is shown below. Looks like the only fastener holding the hose secure to the radiator is that metal horse shoe clip you referred to. Obviously, the o-ring does the sealing rather than a hose clamp.
These connectors appear to be very similar to the ones used on my 996 turbo. Yes just remove the clip and pull off, or that is what suppose to happen. In reality these came sometimes be very difficult to remove.
I had some that came right off and others would not. I would drain the system, remove the clip and soak with PB blaster overnight then attempt to remove.
If it were me I would purchase the complete hose, clip and oring just in case.
These connectors appear to be very similar to the ones used on my 996 turbo. Yes just remove the clip and pull off, or that is what suppose to happen. In reality these came sometimes be very difficult to remove.
I had some that came right off and others would not. I would drain the system, remove the clip and soak with PB blaster overnight then attempt to remove.
If it were me I would purchase the complete hose, clip and oring just in case.
Thanks guys. Yes, I googled how to remove the hose on mercedes, SL, etc and nothing showed up, but searched in general and step by step showed up for Beamers, pretty much the same hose type. Anyway, purchased the seal yesterday, spent 2 hours trying to remove the hose in that small place to work scratching up my arms, uncliping and pushing the hose with a screwdriver, etc., and then gave up and drove it to Fetcher. That place in Newport is friendly as it comes, unbelievable customer service, friendly staff. 180 was the estimate to pressure test and put the seal on. 15 minutes after getting it there, the tech had the seal on, pressure tested and found it now does need the hose as well, on order for Monday. I guess some things are just worth taking in, paying the bucks, and fagetaboutit. I find most things that seem simple, in reality just ain't. But how else do you learn unless you give it a shot. My dad always said, "why pay someone else to F it up when you can F it up yourself". As we know, shops can screw up cars even worse, but in this case anyway, Fletcher Jones seems like a good shop, and they wanted me to see the pressure test. But downside is $7 seal will now be more on hose and labor, but they offer free coffee, etc too. When I go back I will suggest even better customer service with free massage booth.
Thanks guys. Yes, I googled how to remove the hose on mercedes, SL, etc and nothing showed up, but searched in general and step by step showed up for Beamers, pretty much the same hose type. Anyway, purchased the seal yesterday, spent 2 hours trying to remove the hose in that small place to work scratching up my arms, uncliping and pushing the hose with a screwdriver, etc., and then gave up and drove it to Fetcher. That place in Newport is friendly as it comes, unbelievable customer service, friendly staff. 180 was the estimate to pressure test and put the seal on. 15 minutes after getting it there, the tech had the seal on, pressure tested and found it now does need the hose as well, on order for Monday. I guess some things are just worth taking in, paying the bucks, and fagetaboutit. I find most things that seem simple, in reality just ain't. But how else do you learn unless you give it a shot. My dad always said, "why pay someone else to F it up when you can F it up yourself". As we know, shops can screw up cars even worse, but in this case anyway, Fletcher Jones seems like a good shop, and they wanted me to see the pressure test. But downside is $7 seal will now be more on hose and labor, but they offer free coffee, etc too. When I go back I will suggest even better customer service with free massage booth.
Totally agree with you in regard to FJ in Newport Beach.
Cheers.
Last edited by Leester; 04-11-2015 at 12:37 PM.
Reason: missed word.
WTF, first seal, then hose, now radiator, now bankrupt. Seems the hose was cracked and the radiator too after they got the new hose on and pressure tested again. Makes me wonder with cheap plastic parts, if larger wheels & lowered cars jar our cars more and thus more prone to stuff breaking. At least it looks cool in the shop.
I was going to mention the radiator but didn't want to jinx your project.
Common failure on many different manufactures that use the plastic pipes and plastic radiator end tanks. They are also easy to damage when tring to remove the pipe from the radiator.
There are all aluminum aftermarket replacements available for the porsches.
Might want to search and see if that is true for the MB as well.
Just had Fletcher finish the job with new radiator, and no leak now. I was curious as to what the radiator leak looked like, so had the tech show me the old radiator; however we could not see any crack in the area he said it was leaking. But he said when pressure testing then it leaked. Thought it was odd not to see any defect visually on the plastic, but maybe that's the way it is with radiators. Glad I have my 1972 Panteras with all aluminum radiators and aluminum hose connections, no plastic crap. Good old 40 year old philosophy.
04-05-2015, 12:42 AM
