SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: SL600 Cold air intake project

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Old 06-28-2015, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Ekselent
Sebastian..
I saw your setup.... and I wonder if I saw right.
It seems that you don't use any air filter?
All you need is high gauge fine SS mesh double C-clamped, filters were ditched more than 2 yrs ago lol..
Old 07-02-2015, 01:27 AM
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Hello my friends.

I found this and wonder why Speedriven don't use plastic or silicon tubes at their Anarchy kit???? if't so much better...
I think they have also measured the temperatures inside the pipe?
I wonder how big the dia is? 3" as I use??? Maybe bigger??

Last edited by Ekselent; 07-19-2015 at 06:15 AM.
Old 07-02-2015, 08:27 AM
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They were probably going for looks. I bet they wrapped that piping in some kind of insulator for driving purposes. Otherwise, it's just one big heat sink.
Old 07-11-2015, 02:04 PM
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Today I have take of the coil packs + the spark plugs.
On Monday, all the new parts arrive... hope so.

I take of also this "Speedriven" T-branch because it looks really bad regarding the flow.

Here you can see few pictures about that part.
When pressurized air from the intercoolers hit that thick wall it can't flow right!!!
That wall thickness was at least 1/4"...
So I grind it conical so now the wall it's gone... and its gone flow much better than before and the air speed increases. At the last picture you can see when the rubber is on and the wall is gone.
I can't understand why they have leave it there...
after all, this part is of the Speedriven tuning kit... so you, who have bought or are buying this intercooler kit grind it like this for max flow.
Now I can sleep well again because I have few more hp at the engine....
Attached Thumbnails SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2407.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2408.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2411.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2412.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2415.jpg  


Last edited by Ekselent; 07-11-2015 at 05:15 PM.
Old 07-11-2015, 02:20 PM
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Here few pictures about the coil packs and spark plugs....
I have around 60 000 miles at my car so I think this plugs is OEM plugs... never changed.....
Lot of corrosion... I believe that there has been water at plug hole.
The plug gap is 0,7 mm / 0,0275"... I think it must be 0,4 mm / 0,0157 at the new plugs...
So it was time to change them and it's not difficult to do it... It took approx 1 hour to take them of. No special tools needed.
Next week
Attached Thumbnails SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2418.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2419.jpg  
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Ekselent
Today I have take of the coil packs + the spark plugs.
On Monday, all the new parts arrive... hope so.

I take of also this "Speedriven" T-branch because it looks really bad regarding the flow.

Here you can see few pictures about that part.
When pressurized air from the intercoolers hit that thick wall it can't flow right!!!
That wall thickness was at least 1/4"...
So I grind it conical so now the wall it's gone... and its gone flow much better than before and the air speed increases. At the last picture you can see when the rubber is on and the wall is gone.
I can't understand why they have leave it there...
after all, this part is of the Speedriven tuning kit... so you, who have bought or are buying this intercooler kit grind it like this for max flow.
Now I can sleep well again because I have few more hp at the engine....
You're assuming you gained any hp, plenty have ported that part & showed zero gains idk why you keep making posts & claiming hp gains its counterproductive adding all this as newbs etc will believe your utter nonsense you are doing a huge disservice to the community continuing such behavior… Marcin of Speedriven spoke w/me in great detail on this subject he found zero hp increase & doesnt sell/offer any ported Y pipe you really have zero clue on what you're talking about….
Old 07-12-2015, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Thericker
You're assuming you gained any hp, plenty have ported that part & showed zero gains idk why you keep making posts & claiming hp gains its counterproductive adding all this as newbs etc will believe your utter nonsense you are doing a huge disservice to the community continuing such behavior… Marcin of Speedriven spoke w/me in great detail on this subject he found zero hp increase & doesnt sell/offer any ported Y pipe you really have zero clue on what you're talking about….
Thericker.....
I'm 100% sure that this T-branch flow now much better than before.
This T-branch should have done it this way.... it looks unfinished and I can't accept that at my engine.... al understand that it flows better now without measuring the flow.... again 100% sure about that.
To me is all the same what you and Marcin think about this . I can think my self and thats it.
Old 07-12-2015, 05:28 AM
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I would have to agree that the air would flow better. What Thericker is saying may also be true, the fact that the air flows a little better in that area does not automatically mean you will have more BHP.

However what it may mean is that the max BHP may hang around a little longer and delay the heat soak slightly which has to be a positive step.

I think that dismissing a modification as useless because it doesn't show gains on the dyno is not a good way to approach a build.

Keep working, all the small improvements will help but not necessarily on the peak numbers.
Old 07-12-2015, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by F1BHP

I think that dismissing a modification as useless because it doesn't show gains on the dyno is not a good way to approach a build.

Keep working, all the small improvements will help but not necessarily on the peak numbers.
If it doesn't show any hp improvement you are wasting your time with the modification. Also, mods are not cumulative. 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 when you are modding may only add up to 2.
Old 07-12-2015, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BlownV8
If it doesn't show any hp improvement you are wasting your time with the modification. Also, mods are not cumulative. 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 when you are modding may only add up to 2.
Exactly!! Posts like ekslents are based on feelings & but dynos not real actual dyno machines etc etc. And like you noted stacking mods on top of mods dont keep gaining/adding hp quite the opposite
Old 07-12-2015, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Ekselent
Thericker.....
I'm 100% sure that this T-branch flow now much better than before.
This T-branch should have done it this way.... it looks unfinished and I can't accept that at my engine.... al understand that it flows better now without measuring the flow.... again 100% sure about that.
To me is all the same what you and Marcin think about this . I can think my self and thats it.
I will trust an actual accredited Tuner who fabs/sells all the top mods for this platform over what you think/feel..
Old 07-12-2015, 04:46 PM
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Thericker and Blown......

You are absolutely hopeless when nothing is agreed
Do not bother me.... I'm 100% sure my intake and T-branch also flow better than yours and looking 100% better to..
Thericker my car is looking much better than yours ... and at the engine room too...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/95768851@N05/

And I'm 100% sure my car is better built than yours... : )

Last edited by Ekselent; 07-17-2015 at 03:37 AM.
Old 07-13-2015, 03:20 PM
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Blown V8 and Thericker, you missed my point. I said the mod MAY help the power to stick around for longer by giving better sustained cooling. We all know that when heat soaked the timing is pulled and the power numbers drop quickly, so if a small mod delays that drop by just one second, in my mind that is a mod worth having.

The smoothing of the pipe will not hurt performance so no harm in it.
Old 07-13-2015, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by F1BHP
Blown V8 and Thericker, you missed my point. I said the mod MAY help the power to stick around for longer by giving better sustained cooling. We all know that when heat soaked the timing is pulled and the power numbers drop quickly, so if a small mod delays that drop by just one second, in my mind that is a mod worth having.

The smoothing of the pipe will not hurt performance so no harm in it.
Thank you....
I can't leave any "walls" anywhere so when the part is of I grind them conical .. took 1 hour of my life and I'm happy now.

Here few pictures about my new coil packs which arrive today..
Tomorrow if I have time I'm gone install them... and maybe at next weekend 1/4 mile run in Pudasjärvi.
Attached Thumbnails SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2422.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2424.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2425.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2427.jpg  

Last edited by Ekselent; 07-13-2015 at 04:07 PM.
Old 07-14-2015, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Thericker
I will trust an actual accredited Tuner who fabs/sells all the top mods for this platform over what you think/feel..

Why dont we just use Asbestos, its a great heat shield

Sorry, I have been following this thread and enjoyed it entirely, both of you have done a great job and hopefully I can come up with something close to half as good as both of your builds on my S600. Good luck with your coils and spark plugs, it will not be pleasant.
Old 07-17-2015, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ducatista4life
Why dont we just use Asbestos, its a great heat shield

Sorry, I have been following this thread and enjoyed it entirely, both of you have done a great job and hopefully I can come up with something close to half as good as both of your builds on my S600. Good luck with your coils and spark plugs, it will not be pleasant.
Thank you.....Good luck.

First I'm gone measure the pipe intake air temp before I do nothing with the pipe.
I'm not so sure about the heat soak because when the engine run it's flow so much cold air from the front of the radiator. The pipe is also very short at the engine room (10"-15") so have the air really so much time to heat up before the turbo intake??? It's flow fast when the engine is run.
My intake have also no turbulences at al because it's so "fine" inside to and straight lines al the way.....
Therickers intake pipe stops at the engine room at the front plate where the radiator is. ( next to radiator). It seems it's not coming out at al. Yes I now there is a OEM hole where the air is coming in but still is inside the engine room.
So my opinion is that leak and exudes a warmer engine room air at the pipe vs the pipe was completely outside.

Last edited by Ekselent; 07-17-2015 at 04:11 AM.
Old 07-17-2015, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ekselent
Thank you.....Good luck.

First I'm gone measure the pipe intake air temp before I do nothing with the pipe.
I'm not so sure about the heat soak because when the engine run it's flow so much cold air from the front of the radiator. The pipe is also very short at the engine room (10"-15") so have the air really so much time to heat up before the turbo intake??? It's flow fast when the engine is run.
My intake have also no turbulences at al because it's so "fine" inside to and straight lines al the way.....
Therickers intake pipe stops at the engine room at the front plate where the radiator is. ( next to radiator). It seems it's not coming out at al. Yes I now there is a OEM hole where the air is coming in but still is inside the engine room.
So my opinion is that leak and exudes a warmer engine room air at the pipe vs the pipe was completely outside.
I could write dictionary sized volumes on what you don't know about my build or the v12 tt m275 or internal combustion engines in general for that matter.. The pix you saw were from the inside of my CAI setup IE the double worm gear clamped SS 300 micron mesh, is also covered w/a final larger exterior silicone pipe that buts directly up to the oem openings IE completely/covering sealing them from ingesting ANY hot engine bay air... Those pix were taken to show what I was using to filter out ANY rocks/sand or extremely fine dirt etc

Please stick to regurgitating what you & your mechanic/tech basically copied from 2 other tuners from this forum Speedriven & WorldsMotorsports, they already built a superior version to what you're using 1-2 yrs ago.. Stick to your hot air intake vs what I ALONE fab'd/built a real cold air intake that actually was proven several times to show massive gains on a real dyno machine vs again your thoughts/feelings on the subject...

Last edited by Thericker; 07-17-2015 at 02:33 PM.
Old 07-17-2015, 04:23 PM
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Hello Members.

Today I have install new coil packs and spark plugs.
Because today it was raining al day I didn't take out the car for test drive....
I start the engine at the garage.
First impression was that the engine answer much more sensitive than before..
The plugs had over 60 000 miles on the clock so maybe therefore.
No more fault codes!

Juha

Last edited by Ekselent; 07-27-2015 at 03:45 PM.
Old 07-17-2015, 04:25 PM
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Thericker did you sell your SL?
Old 07-17-2015, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Thericker
I could write dictionary sized volumes on what you don't know about my build or the v12 tt m275 or internal combustion engines in general for that matter.. The pix you saw were from the inside of my CAI setup IE the double worm gear clamped SS 300 micron mesh, is also covered w/a final larger exterior silicone pipe that buts directly up to the oem openings IE completely/covering sealing them from ingesting ANY hot engine bay air... Those pix were taken to show what I was using to filter out ANY rocks/sand or extremely fine dirt etc

Please stick to regurgitating what you & your mechanic/tech basically copied from 2 other tuners from this forum Speedriven & WorldsMotorsports, they already built a superior version to what you're using 1-2 yrs ago.. Stick to your hot air intake vs what I ALONE fab'd/built a real cold air intake that actually was proven several times to show massive gains on a real dyno machine vs again your thoughts/feelings on the subject...
Thericker.
I am very taken....
I have done it myself..... each part.. and no one has built it so well when I. I don't like if it looks like home work crap!!
I'm 100% sure it's gone work much better than OEM and Scorpions . It will work very well.

Last edited by Ekselent; 07-17-2015 at 04:44 PM.
Old 07-19-2015, 05:26 AM
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Hello.

Finally I test drive my car yesterday and I am positively surprised .
Quite obviously runs better than before and I'm sure the next step must be a new differential.
Now it seems that the car tends to run diagonally when I step the gas..

The second surprised was the exhaust sound..... I'm not sure If I have mention before that I bough new mufflers at the car... I install them few months ago but I had completely forgotten about it... so when I start the engine I thought what the hell ......
The sound is exactly what I have looking for. It's fuller heftier (more bass) than before and not as sharp. It's some what quieter also.

These mufflers fit perfect at in place of the original mufflers.

Specs:
-Dynomax
-Race Bullet Muffler 24215
-In/Out: 2.5''
-Overall Length: 16.5''
-Shell Length: 12''
-Diameter: 4''
-Aluminized Steel
-100 Percent Welded
-Lightweight Construction
-Unrestricted Straight Through Design
-Exclusive Continuous Roving Fiberglass Tech.
-Up To 4 dbA Sound Reduction On Most Race Applications

Price under 100 USD/each


PS. Few shots about my car also.... The first day for over 9 months when it's outdoors.

Juha
Attached Thumbnails SL600 Cold air intake project-img_1650.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2438.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2437.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2436.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2434.jpg  

SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2435.jpg  

Last edited by Ekselent; 07-19-2015 at 05:42 AM.
Old 07-19-2015, 05:34 AM
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Next goodies ....

Downpipes with race cats. (200 Cel cats).
Attached Thumbnails SL600 Cold air intake project-img_1781.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_1782.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_1783.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_1784.jpg  
Old 07-19-2015, 06:03 AM
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Hello.

Can anyone recommend me where and what types of sensors I would buy so I can measure the controversial air temperature at the cold air intake pipe. I need two of them.
Any ideas??
Old 07-19-2015, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Thericker
I could write dictionary sized volumes on what you don't know about my build or the v12 tt m275 or internal combustion engines in general for that matter.. The pix you saw were from the inside of my CAI setup IE the double worm gear clamped SS 300 micron mesh, is also covered w/a final larger exterior silicone pipe that buts directly up to the oem openings IE completely/covering sealing them from ingesting ANY hot engine bay air... Those pix were taken to show what I was using to filter out ANY rocks/sand or extremely fine dirt etc

Please stick to regurgitating what you & your mechanic/tech basically copied from 2 other tuners from this forum Speedriven & WorldsMotorsports, they already built a superior version to what you're using 1-2 yrs ago.. Stick to your hot air intake vs what I ALONE fab'd/built a real cold air intake that actually was proven several times to show massive gains on a real dyno machine vs again your thoughts/feelings on the subject...
Here is few pictures about the intakes I now for now.
My is completely different in al ways.... and If the pipe heat the air temperature "to much" I'm gone insulated it for sure
and that's not a problem. : ).
Attached Thumbnails SL600 Cold air intake project-10805856_943416562352363_3674901969513050840_n.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-img_2306.jpg   SL600 Cold air intake project-1392615_715771558436559_5761157_n.jpg  

Last edited by Ekselent; 07-19-2015 at 06:32 AM.
Old 07-19-2015, 01:08 PM
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The SL looks fantastic. Great work. On the intake and in the theme of modifying everything, including the things that don't net additional hp, you should put an insulation wrap or sleeve the intake pipes. Won't hurt, right?


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