Ekselent

Have you install bigger injectors?
Thericker have mention several times to change them bigger ones so I think he has certainly changed, them also.
Speedrivens opinion is I don't need to do it.
When everything is ready I must look closer at that.
I must install the new downpipes also so I have lot of things to do.

Juha

NEMES1S

I look forward to someone with a video of the cats deleted.....I'm still not sure how long I can keep my car but if I do, this might be on my to do list

F1BHP

Has anybody done a 4 filter cold air intake?

2 to the stock location and maybe 2 to the fog light or DRL location.

Seems like it would be a better idea to use 4 smaller filters due to space issues, something similar to the Speedriven scorpion but carry the intake to the front to get the cold air.

Ekselent

I'm ready..... now al parts fitting.
Here are few pictures on the right side pipe and filter. I test them at the left side also and it fit pretty good there to. So booth sides is nearly identical.
Now I'm gone weld 2" long extension pipes at the booth sides "filter ends" and glass blast them al + matte black paint.

I got more space by removing the middle bracket. I have to make a new bracket.
You can also see that I can use longer filters also. About 2" longer.
The screwdriver is at the middle.

I'm pretty happy. I have solve many many problems and it was not easy.

I'm gone also ask K&N if they have longer filters so I get everything perfect.

BlownV8

Nothing about the Speedriven intake that is cold air. It's crap. Thericker's setup is about the best you can get.

F1BHP

Blownv8 you didn't read my post, I said like the speedriven setup but carry the intake tubes to the front of the car x 4 instead of 2. This should mean that the filter size would be less of an issue.

BlownV8

You are better off with one large 4" tube than two smaller 2" tubes. The larger 4" tube will flow more. You also keep the turbulence down with one intake vs two into the turbo.

Ekselent

My opinion is that this gone be (when it's ready) best home made air cold intake ever for this car.
- Good design
- Looks good
- Straigt lines with the pipes
- Best flow
- You can open the hood and show the engine room and nobody notice anything that you have home made intake.... of course then when you see the filters.
- Of course 4" pipe would be better but then it must (my opinion) be al the way....
No unnecessary bends and thresholds that affect the flow rate.
- However, it is a question only about 350 hp each side so 3" pipe ( I think ) is enough if you compare to the original size in dia. 2" vs 2,8 " = 2,875" is about 45 % bigger.
507 hp vs 700 hp . 507 * 45%= 735 hp.
If you versus Speedriven dia 2,25" vs OEM 2" it's only 13% bigger dia and it can handle about 650-700 hp. (If you calculate it 507 * 1,13% = 575 hp).
So I think this is enough and perfect.... of course this pipe is a little bit longer but still.
This is how I have thinking about it right from the start.....
If someone has a different view for this it's okay for me.... This is my car and so on.
If I can get bigger filters then I'm gone be more happy with this.

PS. The extra holes and cuttings do not appear because the light and plates.

Ekselent

Hello.

More info.
I have been contact with K&N again.
We have understood each other wrong.
V12 Biturbo 5,5L/ 5500 rpm 1,4bar (700 hp) need together 1260 cfm. Each side 630 cfm.
Those filter I have bought flow each 848 cfm. 848 + 848 = 1696 cfm.

So I don't need buy bigger ones. It's more than enough.

if I had noticed earlier that mistake I would have got less work and bought this K&N filter RU-5111. It's smaller and conical
This filter flow 750 cfm. 750+750=1500 cfm.

Her you can see how K&N tech answer me.

Horsepower is not important, it is the air flow which is important. With the information which you gave me before I can calculate how much air flow the engine need. 5.5L V12 5500rpm and a turbo pressure of 1.4bar. this results into a required flow of 1260 and the filter which we just talked about has 750cfm per side and that is 1500 with 2 filters fitted.


So for them who have think to do it the K&N RU-5111 is smaller and it's much more easier to install them at the front of the radiator.
- Flange inner dia. 3"
- Outside dia. 4,5"
- Height 10"

So this is going to fit much better at the front of the radiator.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?prod=RU-5111

F1BHP

Remember the air flow is done with a new air filter, which will quickly be reduced over time ,so the bigger the insurance the better.

Ekselent

I think I'm gone buy an another set so I can change them faster.

Juha

NEMES1S

where did you get the piping? Was it just repurposed exhaust piping? If you remember the piping source or part numbers I would like to give this a shot.

Ekselent

.

*** I bought al pipes from here.
http://www.frozenboost.com/aluminum-pipes/

*** You need only 3 pipes of this.
2' Mandrel Bent Aluminum 180° Bend, 3.0"
http://www.frozenboost.com/aluminum-...ipe-p-693.html

- Cut two of them with angel which is over 90 degrees. ( Turbo inlet right and left side)

- Cut the third one in the middle. This pipes is going to the from of the radiator. ( Left and right side)

- Then you need two (left and right side) 2-2,5" long short pipes from the pipes you have left from the over 90 degrees pipes. Cut from there this pipes and weld it at the pipe ends where the filters attached. It must also have a small angle up.
(When I have weld my pipes I can take a shot so you can see how much).

- Two reducers from the same place. (Turbo inlet)
Silicone Reducer, 3.0" to 2.25" - Black
http://www.frozenboost.com/intake-pi...ucer-p-63.html

- Two silicone straight coupler. ( Fixing both pipes together. Left and right side)
3.0" Silicone Straight Coupler, Black
http://www.frozenboost.com/silicone-...ses-p-617.html

- The filters.
K&N RC-2530
or
the smaller ones RU-5111.

- Rememer buy al the clambs also. (Narrow clamps at the reducers).

Be prepared that has to be patience and it will not be ready for a day.
The parts cost nearly nothing. (150 USD).+ the filters.

Juha

NEMES1S

Wow, awesome post. glad you joined this forum!!!!!

Ekselent

Thank you....
I am happy when I got to help in what many have tried to do for a long time. .
( I think Speedriven have also tried to do it)
Remember it's need a lot of small adjustments every where.

NEMES1S

It was a lot of loosening clamps and fiddling around to try to get the scorpions to work so I'm guessing this would be much of the same plus a bit of trimming around things. Once you got all of it in, do you have to take off front bumper and headlights to reinstall it? I only ask because my warranty company can be picky about stupid little things that are performance adders and them voiding warranties would cost me a ton in future repairs so I normally switch it back to stock before it gets fixed.

Ekselent

.

No you don't need to do that for sure.
Maybe only the plate which is on the radiator + plastic covers which is on the both headlights so you can take of the "front radiator pipe". Of corse the grill so you can take of the filters also.

Ekselent

Here few pictures from the pipes when I have glass blasted them and weld those small extension pipes where the filter is going to fit. I must cut them a little bit.
I have paint the aluminum primer also today.... so tomorrow I'm gone paint them black and start to install everything at the car.

PS. At the picture you can see that the extension pipes must going a little bit up so the filters fit correct at the tight front.
Yes the welds are not looking good but this is a prototype to my car.

Ekselent

I'm wondering which one is a better option thinner or thicker wall is better because of the heat.
My opinion is that thinner is better. Yes, it is warming up faster but also cooled down faster .... which one therefore better?
I think the heat shield plate installation would be a good solution to protect the outgoing turbo pipe.

If someone is interested I can made few cold air kitts so you can save a lot of hours.
Both turbo outgoing pipes is different. They have their own stories and have their own thing and angle, and indentations because it's tight every where. The same applies to the reducers.

Juha

Ekselent

Here few pictures about the ready kitty.

Thericker.... I have wait for your comments???

cm60k

You doing great job MaaaaaaN, love the paint colour & finishing..

ZAYED,,

Thericker

Looks Ekselent Only 1 prob as I previously noted, you need to remake it w/Silicone piping. Trust me over a short 5 min drive these new pipes will be completely heat soaked, in that scolding furnace, as they are positioned right next to the exhaust manifolds/turbos & cylinder heads etc..

Didn't you EVER WONDER why ALL oem CAI's are made out of PVC/Plastic??? #1 is to reduce/keep IAT's as low as possible. Being mated directly on top of a broiling engine, & in this case an absolute Nuclear Furnace (ever put/hang your leg outside the car while you're sitting after driving for a brief or decent bit of time? Say to open a gate? or grab parking ticket etc, did you feel the enormous amount of heated air scolding your leg, coming from under the car? well that is just a snap shot of the actual hellish under hood temps going on inside that sealed engine bay where your NEW metal intake pipes are sitting)

#2 reason OEM CAI's are made out of PVC/Plastic is to deaden/muffle the sound, this intake you've made will do 2 things, look & sound great. That's it, the Perf will suffer & be far, worse than stock after a good quick 5-10 min heatsoak.. & at best under full throttle while on a good straight away w/great air movement, you will @ best = the stock setup in Perf.. I tested a nearly Identical single pipe setup 2-3 yrs ago, & with metal piping heatsoaked, when you punch the throttle from a dig the super hot IAT's cause the ECU to pull Timing, fuel, etc try doing some burnouts from a dead stop after driving for 5-10 min, you'll see the ECU will pull so much hp you wont even be able to do a decent burnout. So please trust me when I say, "Just remake it out of Silicone, then wrap them in Header Wrap, forget the beauty, you sound like you're after hp/tq right? use some SS joiners to connect ea successive part of piping etc" you will then have the ultimate home made CAI for the V12tt

Source the SS joiners from the same place I previously told you about, where you bought everything else you have etc.. Frozenboost.com they have it all @ best prices

Ekselent

Thank you Thericker. : ).
I like your attityde and respect that.
Im gonna answer why I have chosen these pipes. I didt deliverately.
I took into account few theoretical things which you didnt take into the concideration.... I think you change your mind after that.. Hope so.
Now Im gonna fly to Spain / Marbella for two weeks holiday so I do it later. : ).

Juha

euphoriaDSM

PM'd

BlownV8

Ignore someone who has been there and done that. Not very smart.