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My 3rd SL (86, 98) now a 2007. The 2007 is a bucket list car. I'm retired from the Army and am now able to enjoy my car passion/fetish to the fullest. I've had it for almost 3 months and have a couple of questions (I've searched much but couldn't get definitive answers). I was worried about the ABC system as many seem to be but so far everything seems fine. Fluid is nice and green and the car doesn't sag any after sitting for a week (3rd weekend car). The other predominate worry seems to be the top, that's where my first question comes in:
The car sat for a long time on a dealers lot prior to my purchase, could the seals on the hydraulics have dried out? I operated the top a couple of times prior to purchase and it worked fine. I have since operated it a few times at home and still works fine. About 3 weeks ago I noticed a couple of drips of what I'm sure is hydraulic fluid on the passenger seat. I cleaned it up and have operated the top a couple of more times and no more drips. Could the dry seals have been resurrected after sitting for so long without being used?
Second question...When traveling at speed (above 50mph) and applying the brakes firmly I get a thumping sensation from the rear (I feel it in the seat, steering wheel is rock solid and brake pedal is also solid). Rotors are new, pads have about 20k miles on them. It almost feels like the ABS is engaging. No braking issues just the annoying thumping. Thoughts? The wheels are from an SL55 and are correct sizes for the car. Also, it seems the rear wheels get more brake dust quicker than the fronts, is this normal or could it be related to the brake thumping?
Last question...Could the above issue related to the tires. It has Pirelli all season tires on it. Horrible tires, anyone else have them? They seem to run very cold and get flat spots after sitting. Car jumps around until the tires warm up. I'm reluctant to replace them as they are new but man, what a horrible tire. I might take them and have them re-balanced and see it that helps.
Sorry for the long post...Here's a few pictures, black one is the current SL
Balancing the Pirellis will not help. I have had them balanced twice and they still jump around when first driven. I agree they are terrible. Soon as I can afford it, I'm getting Michelin Pilot sports. Can't help with the brakes and hydraulic fluid.
Your car is about 9 years old, so expect a few issues that need to be addressed. Would be helpful to know your mileage too.
Regarding your concerns:
ABC fluid needs to be changed every 40K miles for long life. The pulsation dampener in the rear of the left front wheel well can go at 10 years or 75K miles. Replace it before it fails, or it will add stress the ABC pump and hoses, causing more repairs. Otherwise just keep an eye on the system and fix anything that pops up immediately.
The hydraulic fluid is very likely from the front latch cylinder that locks the top to the windshield header. It is commonly the first to fail on this top system. If you run your fingers under the top weatherstrip along the sides, you may find they are wet with fluid. If so, time to fix it.
If you can remove the headliner, you will see immediately if this is the problem. To remove the headliner: Top needs to be supported partly open with an ~18" length of padded 2x4. Be very careful when doing this, as the top will be balanced and could flop open or closed if you apply pressure the wrong way. Then remove the 5 Torx screws at the front of the headliner, then the headliner snaps off of the roof from inside. The cylinder will then be exposed, and possibly a lot of fluid.
Top Hydraulics is a company that can exchange/rebuild this cylinder. Replacement is not too hard for a DIY type of guy. Most owners just replace this one cylinder, and wait for the others to fail down the road. You may opt to do all of them (11 cylinders?), but it is a project, not a repair. Here's thread on the cylinder repair: https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...-cylinder.html
As for the braking issue...it sounds like possibly warped rotors. I'd remove the rear wheels and check the disks for runout. You might be able to have them turned, but more likely they will need to be replaced. Disks are not too spendy if bought from RockAuto or similar online sites. Note that there is a process for putting the SBC brakes 'to sleep' when working on the brakes. Follow this process to a tee or harm may result.
Let us know what the resolutions are for our collective wisdom.
Some other things you should look into on the 'new to you' R230:
motor mounts
inside front control arm bushings
transmission electrical connector leaking
valve covers leaking
replace all fluids and filters (good Karma)
Thanks KBOB...Car has 69K miles on it. Rear rotors are new, I thought that might be the problem and replaced them. No change. I'm going to check the latch cylinder, I've seen the write up. I was just wondering if dry seals might have/could have rejuvenated after not being used for a long time. Thanks again for the thoughts.
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
its possible the rear pads are oem and the front ones aren't. The oems are famous for creating lots of dust, but the have good braking power.
Huskerparts is where I would buy any replacement parts, as they seem to be the cheapest.
Is it possible you have a gas tank baffle loose that is causing the thud when braking hard? It is a common problems (mine has it), but without you describing a bit more clearly what is happening when you are braking hard it is difficult to say what the problem might be.
I just replaced the rear rotors on an 04 DTS that looked fine from the wheel side, but were corroded as hell on the wheel well side and causing brake pulsing/vibrating at higher speeds.
Carguy...The rotors are new and the thumping is not just a single thump. It feels like the rear brakes are in anti-lock mode (grabbing and releasing in rapid succession). It's not noticeable at low speed only when firmly braking above 50 or so MPH.
Even new rotors can warp under the right (wrong) circumstances. It is not an age thing but rather environmental or material defect. I would still measure the runout to make sure they are true.
As for the tires, I would suggest that you get them road-force balanced. Discount Tire can do that but only some locations so you will have to ask. The process will find the heaviest points on the tire and rim and match them up. With the heavy points aligned, it is easier to balance. Make sure they zero it out. The wights come in .25 OZ increments and if the tech is lazy, he will round it off to the closest .25.
While I am not saying that it will solve your problem, it might make it better. I have the Pilot tires on mine, and they are great. Recommended.
As to ABC, check the oil. It should be greenish if it is good. Any other color, especially black/brown, it will need to be changed.
BTW, I love the 107. It is beautiful, you still have it? It seems like we have worked our way through SLs in the same way. I started with a 107 as well, got a 129 and now the 230.
Mine sat for a bit prior to my purchasing it...not good for an SL...at least once a week is probably the best recommendation, even during winter months.
1) I, too, had issues with my brakes at first...brand new brakes, probably not performed to spec, and as it was not driven immediately following replacements, took approximately 3 weeks for them to finally, "seat" themselves; knock on wood, no more vibrations, no more squeals, no more grinding sounds, no more pulsations -- unless the pulsations are quite noticeable, they probably just need to adjust themselves, otherwise, there is a reason why the pads & rotors are always replaced by the dealership (the rotors are super thin and turning them significantly reduces their effectiveness). If you're getting pedal kick back...something is definitely wrong.
hope to hear how this concludes...keep me in the loop if you don't mind...
Thanks for all the replies...I replaced the rear rotors but didn't do the pads (thought the issue was rotors). The pads had plenty of life since they were replaced about 15k miles ago. I think my next step is to replace the pads as well. The issue that bugs me the most about the car is the all season POS Pirelli tires that the previous owner installed hard as rocks and get flat spots overnight, takes 4-5 miles to smooth and then the ride isn't what I'd like. Might have to bite the bullet and put some michelins on the car. Update on the hydraulic fluid drips...no more drips in the past week and a half since my original post (knocking on much wood). I'm hoping the seals were dry and got rejuvenated when I put the top through a couple of cycles. Love the car though, power delivery is wonderful. As good as it is, it's spectacular with the top down because all the annoying top noises go away. Can't wait for spring.
The problem with dry seals is that the stick to the side of the hydraulic cylinders. When you operate the top, small parts of the seal will be ripped of and eventually the actuator will leak.
For preventative maintenance on all my rubber seals I use 303 Aerospace Protectant. I had a few squeaks in my vario roof and they are gone. I use this product every 30-45 days.
Great looking car, and especially great looking wheels. Congratulations.
The only comment I can offer, without repeating previous posts in this thread, pertains to the transmission: The indy MB wrench who services my car commented that MB 722.9 transmissions should have the fluid drained, the filter replaced, the fluid in the transmission pan properly replaced, and the seal replaced at 39,000 miles.
Oh ... one other comment: I sprayed light applications of Fluid Film on the door hinges and the many hinges in the variotop mechanism, and I dropped a few dabs of automatic transmission lube on the hood hinges. If you're looking for a useful and cheap device for getting a bit of lube into tight hinges, google for Dental Irrigating Syringe ... handy things to have in your garage.
Here is where I am with my ABC...10 years of service, had rodeos throughout & fluid changes throughout...(ISSUE #1) started getting a the, (red) ABC / (red) visit workshop & the vehicle appeared to sit low on the passenger side. Dealer #1 replaced the ABC pump (showing 5 bar vs. spec. of 190 bar) along with line coming from the dampener in driver front fender well to the engine area; hydraulic line front of the dampener engine replaced. ("supposedly road tested" though mileage showed was just in shop and out). (ISSUE #2) within minutes/short miles, had an O2 sensor issue -- which, it's my contention, it would have shown up during the supposed test drive. It was corrected, subsequently. (ISSUE #3) Roof Motor went out; corrected. (ISSUE #4) within a week of having the roof corrected, (red) ABC / (drive carefully) appeared occasionally, though, more frequently, during certain types of bumps.
As I lost faith in the first dealership, I took it to DEALERSHIP #2 which performed the roof repairs. "CUSTOMER STATES RED ABC DRIVE CAREFULLY" LIGHT IS COMING ON WHEN GOING OVER BUMPS, INTERMITTENTLY, CHECK AND ADVISE. They replaced the already replaced ABC PUMP along with the VALVE ASSEMBLY. Issue still re-occurs, though less frequently. Spoke with VP of Service...am to re-present vehicle (as, to original issue, along with, they were to "REVITALIZATION" of headlights.) This was to occur today. During our, LONG CONVERSATION, I stated that, perhaps, my dampers were due for a change (esp. as it has been well over 10 years) along with possibly the strut inserts. I await his return phone call to schedule an appointment.
Any opinions or options here? I have an exclusionary warranty policy, however, even that has an ultimate limit.
(1) ABC - doesn't it sound like the dampeners/accumulators?,
(2) shouldn't they stand behind their work with regard to the headlight?
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
2nd that on the accumulators. Your pump was probably fine all along. The accumulators are not very expensive. Replace all of them. If they replaced one valve block they should have replaced the accumulators at least with that valve block, but the others ones need replaced also.
Your dampers are fine and do not need replaced unless they start leaking or there is an electrical failure. There is no need to replace those, so don't waste the money there.
12-28-2015, 11:43 AM
Beautiful SL
