SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: ABC Preventative Maintenance

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Old 03-27-2016, 07:35 PM
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C300 and SL500
ABC Preventative Maintenance

Hi,

Had my 2004 SL500 for nearly 6 months now and I'm just about ahead of the problems it came with - the usual stuff, fixed with help from everyone here.

Current mileage is 56,000 and as much as I try not to drive it every day, it's so good to drive the mileage is climbing!

I think I'm reaching the point where ABC problems are likely to occur. I've read posts suggesting preventative maintenance might help or at least delay the need for costly ABC repairs. Can anyone suggest the right steps to take to try and stay ahead of ABC problems?

Thanks
Gary
Old 03-27-2016, 10:06 PM
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Have you changed out the fluid and the filter? If not what is the color of the fluid?
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:15 AM
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Agree with UT. If fluid is not fresh (translucent green) then flush it liberally, work the valves with a spirited drive and raise/lower the height. To really do the flush right take it to and indy (or a knowledgeable friend) who has the SDS and can do the rodeo routine to really work the valves and heat the fluid. Change the filter. I believe only the newer 3 micron is available now but just want to ensure that is the one you get. Otherwise, if no other symptoms, enjoy. If you are inclined to get way ahead of the curve you can replace the accumulators. They do wear with time/pressure. But they way I understand those is they work until they don't (membrane is pierced so pressure goes). Mark
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:56 AM
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If you have the time, may I humbly suggest this thread and this blog:

https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...on-thread.html

http://mercedes-abc-drive-carefully.blogspot.co.uk/
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:11 PM
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Thank you all.

The car will be going into the shop soon for a transmission fluid change. I will talk to them about changing the ABC fluid, filter and running a rodeo.

Gary
Old 03-28-2016, 08:12 PM
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Hi it is worth fitting a magnet filter On the return.
If you are able with tools then with a friend you can Change the oil and the filter.

I have found the magnet filter to be beneficial to the abc system.
Kind regards.
Old 03-28-2016, 08:19 PM
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Sorry see Welwynnick excellent post.
Apologies.
Old 03-31-2016, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by funymuny
Agree with UT. If fluid is not fresh (translucent green) then flush it liberally, work the valves with a spirited drive and raise/lower the height. To really do the flush right take it to and indy (or a knowledgeable friend) who has the SDS and can do the rodeo routine to really work the valves and heat the fluid. Change the filter. I believe only the newer 3 micron is available now but just want to ensure that is the one you get. Otherwise, if no other symptoms, enjoy. If you are inclined to get way ahead of the curve you can replace the accumulators. They do wear with time/pressure. But they way I understand those is they work until they don't (membrane is pierced so pressure goes). Mark
They will work even after they don't work on the accumulators. You will start getting red ABC warning lights going over bumpy or really hilly roads. The accumulators should all be replaced 10/years or 100k, whichever comes first. They aren't terribly expensive and the accumulators are what keep constant pressure in the system. Uneven pressure puts lots of additional stress on the pump.
Old 04-04-2016, 04:23 AM
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hi, contact this people and buy teflon products for prevantiv treatment. i used on my 2004 , with collapsed both front suspension that was leaking alot . problem fixed with stuff that they have that make the rubber expand little bit . this is over 5 years ago, and new owner has not done anything with ABC system or neither had any wrong.

if your oil level is low in the oil holder, you also will get flashing red sign dash when its bumpy

everyone that has mercedes with system, should teflon treat the system, less wear, and heat

also they engine gear box treatment fanstastic

http://www.qmiitw.com/QMI_Engine.html

TRUST me guys on this, i dont make any money on this stuff they have, but used it for more than 20 years now with good result .

my cars get engine treatment, gearbox treatment, differential treatment, power steering system, ABC system very short time after i buy , i i been driving my 4 mercedes i had, like i have stolen them, very hard driving after engine is warmed up. And never touched the drive train on any of them.. 0 costs .. just oil and filters

Change your engine oil to 5 - 40 Royal Purple and your oil use will go down 4 times, maybe more. use 0 - 40 is for idiots that drive hard right after start . filling 1 q every month is not good,, oil just running thru the engine

Last edited by Tommyboy928; 04-04-2016 at 04:32 AM.
Old 04-20-2016, 12:35 PM
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I would like to disagree with Tommyboy928 in the following areas.

1. If you get this red warning light driving over bumps, accumulators have already failed and you can Teflon treat all you want. The accumulators must be replaced.
2. The valve blocks have O-rings to seal internally but the valve seat itself is hardened steel to steel (correct me if I am wrong) Valve blocks do not fail by leaking to the outside. Teflon treatment will not change a thing. If the seat is damaged, the seat is damaged and the block must be replaced. In my opinion valve blocks after 2004 should not fail at all mechanically since there is nothing in the system which is harder than the seat itself. The main issue for sagging issues is microscopic bladder debris dissolved in the fluid. A fluid change new filter and Rodeo should do the trick.
3. Rubber softening compounds have one real big disadvantage. How do you tell it to stop softening rubber? I do not want to have the HP hoses softened!!!!
With all the trouble MB went trough with the ABC system since 2003, if a Teflon compound would have done the trick, they would have used it !!!

Just my 5 cents
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Old 04-20-2016, 02:52 PM
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i am right so far

Originally Posted by mbwolf
I would like to disagree with Tommyboy928 in the following areas.

1. If you get this red warning light driving over bumps, accumulators have already failed and you can Teflon treat all you want. The accumulators must be replaced.
2. The valve blocks have O-rings to seal internally but the valve seat itself is hardened steel to steel (correct me if I am wrong) Valve blocks do not fail by leaking to the outside. Teflon treatment will not change a thing. If the seat is damaged, the seat is damaged and the block must be replaced. In my opinion valve blocks after 2004 should not fail at all mechanically since there is nothing in the system which is harder than the seat itself. The main issue for sagging issues is microscopic bladder debris dissolved in the fluid. A fluid change new filter and Rodeo should do the trick.
3. Rubber softening compounds have one real big disadvantage. How do you tell it to stop softening rubber? I do not want to have the HP hoses softened!!!!
With all the trouble MB went trough with the ABC system since 2003, if a Teflon compound would have done the trick, they would have used it !!!

Just my 5 cents
my 2004 model i drive hard ,full rmp 2 gear, had to slam the brakes on, and the front both suspension colapsed down to lowest point, just over the wheel , looked like a low rider, alarm went off. i stop and look what had happend.. started up ,pumped 2 times on the button. and got back to normal. 1 year later my light alarm, red flashing on dashboard went off, car was behaving like rocking chair.. could see oil had passed down both front legs suspension , checked oil in suspension reservouir, missed 1 q , filled one liter / 1 quart filled special stuff that expand the o rings and seal everywhere in system . after drive with this some days, i took the teflon treatment . this was around 2010 , car sold in 2013 and i am frend with owner. all work fine ,i even went for over 3000 km drive to deliver car, passed inspection ,delivered car , not even changed lq in the system , now is 2016 and car still works fine. has around 90 000 km total

i dont make up the story ,thats what happend.

and so ,how do you explaine i now have max 109 c on my oil temp engine , before teflon treatment was 116 c max i seen in 35 deegre highway sun driving? i have headers that even heat engine block, more now. wind catch cover to help catch wind is away,sinse i changed to black series kit and a extra intercooler that even block the oil cooler more. test guys, what temp y get after hard driving,,can read instant temp in display

i sell machines, and sometimes we seen leak where shaft comes out of gearbox to axels, we used this stuff, or customer was told to order this stuff to stop the leak/ sweating by expand the seal . and it works. only tmes it does not work, if its cut or so dry that it has cracked. issue own a SL is the long stand still ime in vinter ,that dry out seals everywhere. i had 4 SL cars oldest from 1989 , all driven hard, i mean very hard , and all teflon treated from engine,gear, differential, powersteering , and latest 2 also hydraulic suspension.. not spendt a dime on other than filter, and plugs, oil change.

Last edited by Tommyboy928; 04-20-2016 at 03:12 PM. Reason: more info

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