SL/R230: Nightmare SL600 purchase
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 411
Likes: 23
2011 E550 Coupe, 1992 Corvette ZR-1, 1991 368ci ZR-1, 1990 ZR-1, 1987 Callaway TT, 05 SL600, CLA45
Nightmare SL600 purchase
2005 SL600 w/51,800 miles....currently just over 52K
Trunk soft close failed: fixed with instructions here
ABC hose failed/burst while driving
ABC blue light is still on after fix
Radiator failed today...pinholes by upper hose
Trunk soft close failed: fixed with instructions here
ABC hose failed/burst while driving
ABC blue light is still on after fix
Radiator failed today...pinholes by upper hose
Super Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 606
Likes: 88
From: North Cali
2005 SL500, 2015 CLS400
Wow, sorry to hear that, mate!
So trunk soft close fixed? Good, one at a time
ABC definitely needs a fault codes reading, due to bunch of sensors/items that might give that blue light. Do not drive with empty reservoir - you'll destroy the pumps.
Pinholes in the upper hose? Maybe something got in and made those? I'd recommend system flush, if possible, and new fluid! Whatever made those holes still might be in the system, so a flush would eliminate them.
Regards,
Ghostty
So trunk soft close fixed? Good, one at a time
ABC definitely needs a fault codes reading, due to bunch of sensors/items that might give that blue light. Do not drive with empty reservoir - you'll destroy the pumps.
Pinholes in the upper hose? Maybe something got in and made those? I'd recommend system flush, if possible, and new fluid! Whatever made those holes still might be in the system, so a flush would eliminate them.
Regards,
Ghostty
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 411
Likes: 23
2011 E550 Coupe, 1992 Corvette ZR-1, 1991 368ci ZR-1, 1990 ZR-1, 1987 Callaway TT, 05 SL600, CLA45
reservoir is full; not sure what the issue is on the ABC
anyone done a radiator pull before?
pinholes in the radiator itself, not the hose....on the upper neck
anyone done a radiator pull before?
pinholes in the radiator itself, not the hose....on the upper neck
Super Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 606
Likes: 88
From: North Cali
2005 SL500, 2015 CLS400
Check here
https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...65-2006-a.html
Should be similar since both are v12 TT
https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...65-2006-a.html
Should be similar since both are v12 TT
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 343
From: Welwyn, Herts, UK
2006 S600
This is how I changed my radiator last year. S600 instead of SL600, but should be quite similar:
Before doing anything, inspect the new radiator and make sure it’s to spec; this is really important.
Now is the time to replace the anti-freeze, the thermostat, the thermostat housing o-ring, the hose connector o-rings, and the hoses and aux drive belt if you feel like it.
Refitting is the reverse of removal, but:
Before doing anything, inspect the new radiator and make sure it’s to spec; this is really important.
- Make sure the outside diameter of the hose receptacle is 41.0 to 41.5 mm.
- Make sure you have threaded receptacles for the fan cowl, IC HE, IC pump, AC HE and AC pipe fittings.
- When you remove the old radiator, some of those fittings may be rusted up – test them first, and figure out what you’re going to do.
- There are rubber & plastic mouldings all around the radiator to control airflow, and they take time to remove & refit.
- Establish whether your header tank fills to the RH header tank, or the bottom hose.
- The new radiator may have a ¾” filler hose receptacle that may need to be blocked off – which can make fitting more difficult.
- Lift the front end of the car onto stands and remove the top and bottom covers.
- Loosen the header tank cap and drain the cooling system. This takes a while.
- Remove the thermostat/top hose housing and disconnect all the hoses (expect spills).
- Disconnect the electric fan.
- Remove the small clips that hold the top of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
- Remove the two clips that hold the bottom of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
- Unscrew the secondary radiator pipe from the bottom of the cowl, noting where the screws went.
- Undo the two transmission oil cooler pipes, catch a bit of oil, and cover the pipe ends.
- Undo the two nuts at the top corners of the fan cowl.
- Pull the fan assy up an inch, tilt it back and pull it out upwards (pushing the IC pipes out of the way).
- From underneath, undo the IC pump and its bracket from the radiator.
- Still underneath, remove the bolt that holds the aircon pipes bracket to the radiator.
- Unbolt the top L&R of the aircon condenser from the radiator.
- Unbolt the IC heat exchanger from the radiator, and support it.
- Undo the plastic clamps that hold the top of the radiator.
- Push the top of the radiator back and remove the bleed pipe.
- Remove the plastic brackets that are clipped half-way up each side of the radiator.
- Lift the radiator out.
Now is the time to replace the anti-freeze, the thermostat, the thermostat housing o-ring, the hose connector o-rings, and the hoses and aux drive belt if you feel like it.
Refitting is the reverse of removal, but:
- Check that the top hose assy fits both radiator receptacles before fitting the radiator (ask me why).
- Tape sheets of corrugated card to the front and rear facesof the new radiator, otherwise you’ll make a horrible mess during fitting.
- Make sure the secondary radiator pipe doesn’t foul the fan, as the cowl doesn’t protect it.
- Make sure the aircon condenser is in about the right position before you push the new radiator forwards into position.
- Make sure all the small hoses and cables are tied away from the moving parts, like the ancillaries and the aux belt.
- The cooling system bleeds itself, but only when the engine is fully warmed-up, and you need patience.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 3
From: South Beach & Texas
SL 600
[QUOTE=LGAFF;6837305]got the radiator out in about an hour[/QUOT
Yeah replaced mine last year very simple project, hard part for me was getting the upper hose reattached.
Yeah replaced mine last year very simple project, hard part for me was getting the upper hose reattached.
Last edited by stykshooter; Jun 19, 2016 at 10:13 PM.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 411
Likes: 23
2011 E550 Coupe, 1992 Corvette ZR-1, 1991 368ci ZR-1, 1990 ZR-1, 1987 Callaway TT, 05 SL600, CLA45
Super Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 606
Likes: 88
From: North Cali
2005 SL500, 2015 CLS400
The weel rim? Is it leaking air? If it's stock original i'd say get another one, as there's plenty of them on the market/ebay. If custom, bit harder, might wanna try fix it. Depends on the crack, but usually not that expensive, arround $100-200
Boy, you're having fun with that car
But once you fix it all, should be a pleasure to own one Hope you'll still wanna keep it after that much work invested
Boy, you're having fun with that car
But once you fix it all, should be a pleasure to own one Hope you'll still wanna keep it after that much work invested
Super Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 606
Likes: 88
From: North Cali
2005 SL500, 2015 CLS400
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 955
Likes: 127
From: Kansas
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
if its the coil packs buy them from a source that offers lifetime warranty on them. I think advance auto parts do (I know at least one of the chain stores do).
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 411
Likes: 23
2011 E550 Coupe, 1992 Corvette ZR-1, 1991 368ci ZR-1, 1990 ZR-1, 1987 Callaway TT, 05 SL600, CLA45
Yun, I would sell your SL ASAP, using an alias name and run as fast as you can.....great car to drive but it will bleed your wallet and time dry. So far for every hour driven I have spent the same repairing it.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 2
SL550
Since I am pretty much done with my ZR-1, I need another car to look after.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 411
Likes: 23
2011 E550 Coupe, 1992 Corvette ZR-1, 1991 368ci ZR-1, 1990 ZR-1, 1987 Callaway TT, 05 SL600, CLA45
