LGAFF

2005 SL600 w/51,800 miles....currently just over 52K

Trunk soft close failed: fixed with instructions here

ABC hose failed/burst while driving

ABC blue light is still on after fix

Radiator failed today...pinholes by upper hose

Ghostty

Wow, sorry to hear that, mate!

So trunk soft close fixed? Good, one at a time

ABC definitely needs a fault codes reading, due to bunch of sensors/items that might give that blue light. Do not drive with empty reservoir - you'll destroy the pumps.

Pinholes in the upper hose? Maybe something got in and made those? I'd recommend system flush, if possible, and new fluid! Whatever made those holes still might be in the system, so a flush would eliminate them.

Regards,
Ghostty

LGAFF

reservoir is full; not sure what the issue is on the ABC

anyone done a radiator pull before?

pinholes in the radiator itself, not the hose....on the upper neck

Ghostty

Check here

https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...65-2006-a.html

Should be similar since both are v12 TT

Welwynnick

This is how I changed my radiator last year. S600 instead of SL600, but should be quite similar:

Before doing anything, inspect the new radiator and make sure it’s to spec; this is really important.

• Make sure the outside diameter of the hose receptacle is 41.0 to 41.5 mm.
• Make sure you have threaded receptacles for the fan cowl, IC HE, IC pump, AC HE and AC pipe fittings.
• When you remove the old radiator, some of those fittings may be rusted up – test them first, and figure out what you’re going to do.
• There are rubber & plastic mouldings all around the radiator to control airflow, and they take time to remove & refit.
• Establish whether your header tank fills to the RH header tank, or the bottom hose.
• The new radiator may have a ¾” filler hose receptacle that may need to be blocked off – which can make fitting more difficult.

Get yourself some good lights, and get to work….

• Lift the front end of the car onto stands and remove the top and bottom covers.
• Loosen the header tank cap and drain the cooling system. This takes a while.
• Remove the thermostat/top hose housing and disconnect all the hoses (expect spills).
• Disconnect the electric fan.
• Remove the small clips that hold the top of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
• Remove the two clips that hold the bottom of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
• Unscrew the secondary radiator pipe from the bottom of the cowl, noting where the screws went.
• Undo the two transmission oil cooler pipes, catch a bit of oil, and cover the pipe ends.
• Undo the two nuts at the top corners of the fan cowl.
• Pull the fan assy up an inch, tilt it back and pull it out upwards (pushing the IC pipes out of the way).
• From underneath, undo the IC pump and its bracket from the radiator.
• Still underneath, remove the bolt that holds the aircon pipes bracket to the radiator.
• Unbolt the top L&R of the aircon condenser from the radiator.
• Unbolt the IC heat exchanger from the radiator, and support it.
• Undo the plastic clamps that hold the top of the radiator.
• Push the top of the radiator back and remove the bleed pipe.
• Remove the plastic brackets that are clipped half-way up each side of the radiator.
• Lift the radiator out.

Lifting the radiator out is unsurprisingly more difficult than it sounds, as it’s a tight fit width-wise between the chassis rails. The problem is that there are three steering and suspension oil coolant pipes that squeeze through an aperture alongside the radiator. The aperture is sealed-up with a triangular rubber grommet, which best pulled forwards out of the way of the radiator. The three pipes then need to be manipulated so they’re flat against the chassis rail, and give as much room for the radiator as possible.

Now is the time to replace the anti-freeze, the thermostat, the thermostat housing o-ring, the hose connector o-rings, and the hoses and aux drive belt if you feel like it.

Refitting is the reverse of removal, but:

• Check that the top hose assy fits both radiator receptacles before fitting the radiator (ask me why).
• Tape sheets of corrugated card to the front and rear facesof the new radiator, otherwise you’ll make a horrible mess during fitting.
• Make sure the secondary radiator pipe doesn’t foul the fan, as the cowl doesn’t protect it.
• Make sure the aircon condenser is in about the right position before you push the new radiator forwards into position.
• Make sure all the small hoses and cables are tied away from the moving parts, like the ancillaries and the aux belt.
• The cooling system bleeds itself, but only when the engine is fully warmed-up, and you need patience.

If you’re prepared, it should take about a day.

LGAFF

got the radiator out in about an hour

stykshooter

[QUOTE=LGAFF;6837305]got the radiator out in about an hour[/QUOT




Yeah replaced mine last year very simple project, hard part for me was getting the upper hose reattached.

Dinkyboy

How did you fix the trunk soft close issue?

LGAFF

soft close fix

https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...w-fix-diy.html

LGAFF

add cracked rim to my list

Ghostty

The weel rim? Is it leaking air? If it's stock original i'd say get another one, as there's plenty of them on the market/ebay. If custom, bit harder, might wanna try fix it. Depends on the crack, but usually not that expensive, arround $100-200

Boy, you're having fun with that car But once you fix it all, should be a pleasure to own one Hope you'll still wanna keep it after that much work invested

LGAFF

yep, ordered a refurb for 181.00....

LGAFF

Random Misfire code, along with misfires on 7, 9, 11, 12 started today

Ghostty

I think that's a common problem for the V12 models. Look it up. I'm pretty sure i read about that before on the forum.

LGAFF

hoping its not the 800-1200 coil packs, but probably is

secondchance550

Lee,

We meet here too?! I just got a SL550. Browsing through the forum I saw your post.

carguyshu

if its the coil packs buy them from a source that offers lifetime warranty on them. I think advance auto parts do (I know at least one of the chain stores do).

LGAFF

Yun, I would sell your SL ASAP, using an alias name and run as fast as you can.....great car to drive but it will bleed your wallet and time dry. So far for every hour driven I have spent the same repairing it.

secondchance550

Since I am pretty much done with my ZR-1, I need another car to look after.

LGAFF

you will want to put this one up for adoption soon; LOL

LGAFF

It continues

Front ABC hose leak

Front strut leaking

P0300 code

kustom2k1

What did you do Frank?