kali

i googled but i cant see how much should i buy for it friends, help me plz

these days, i finished collecting almost all parts for the maintenence in the part of arms, joints, shocks,


i am planning to change ABC shocks for the front, pair of lower arms, track arms, Inner Tie rod, end tie rod.

should i replace more?
i experience that steering is quite weird. so i decided to change all.
mine is sl55 of 2003 with 105,000 km
thanks !!!

El_Toro_33809

Don't have an answer regarding brake fluid. Along the line of other things to address when doing the control arms, etc., how about the motor and transmission mounts?

Tim

kali

oh , i bought both mounts bro(engine and transmission mounts). thanks
n i am waiting to buy fluids but i dont know how much litres haha..

RocketBoots

The owners manual of my SL550 states 1.1 US Qt's. What does your owners manual state in the Technical Data section?

kali

i threw away since i bought my car...
haha..
only 1 litre?
i thought 2~2.5L wow.... so will it be okay that i only buy 2 litres?

RocketBoots

Download a replacement.

https://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/servi...owners_manuals

kali

thanks bro,.it helps me alot !!!! thank u

carguyshu

to do a full flush of the brake system will take around a gallon or more of fluid. the only way to properly and fully flush the system is with a STAR tool and a motive bleeder. the STAR will open the various valves in the SBC unit and get all the fluid out as well as all the fluid out of the emergency manual backup system. Make sure to have your car running or to have the battery in the trunk hooked up to a battery charger when you do it as it requires a lot of electricity to actuate the SBC unit a whole bunch. If you don't do this there will be an error and you will have to restart over (I know from experience). It took me over 2 gallons to do it b/c of this error.

BTW the system uses DOT 4 fluid, not DOT 3 fluid. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point, but absorbs water faster. Bc of this it is more critical to swap out DOT 4 fluid every 2 years. Otherwise you will get moisture in the brake fluid over time and then when it gets hot the water will evaporate and you will have brakes that don't work, which is not good.

kali

thank you bro. good info also. ^^

Rudeney

Actually, it's not "just" DOT 4 - it's DOT 4 Plus, which is not an official DOT spec, but it's MBZ's spec for their fluid requirements. Standard DOT 4 has a lower boiling point than MBZ requires. ATE Type 200 is usually readily available and it is a DOT 4 fluid that exceed MBZ's requirements for boiling points.

I always used ATE 200 and alternated with ATE Super Blue. The only difference was in color: 200 is gold, and Blue is, well, believe it or not - blue! Unfortunately, the US DOT has in all it's wisdom, decided that us citizens are too stupid to deal with blue-colored brake fluid. Maybe we'd mistake it for a sugary beverage? Or maybe Windex? So it has been outlawed and Blue is no longer available.

Hary Gahtoe

OP; kali
The ABS in an R230 is VERY demanding in terms of bleeding and flushing the system compared to most other braking systems
I'm talking MB tech level. I tried without the Startek and bled out most of the system in our 04 but I Had to use the Startek to completely finish the system.
FWIW; MB SBC pump and computer need the DOT4+. The system reacts at speeds higher than 4 allows
As far as quantity goes here, I went with a gallon and have about 1/3 left

Good Luck

Rudeney

The critical property of brake fluid that is of concern is its resistance to boiling. Brakes generate a lot of heat during use, especially in hard driving or emergency situations. If that heat is enough to boil the brake fluid, it will lose its hydraulic properties and thus significantly reduce your car's ability to stop.

This means that you need a fluid that is rated with a boiling point high enough for your car's requirements. The problem with brake fluid is that it is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture. As it does so, its boiling point is lowered. If it has absorbed enough moisture, and your brakes generate enough heat, you could have a scary failure of hydraulic pressure. Although the system would seem sealed, the rubber hoses and seals do allow microscopic amounts of water to enter. Over time, this builds up and lowers the boiling point of your fluid. This is why the fluid needs to be changed periodically.

Brake fluid has various properties, the most critical being its boiling point. Fluids are rated for wet and dry boiling points. Dry is measured with fresh, unadulterated fluid and will be the highest value. Wet is measured when the fluid has absorbed some moisture, around 3.7% by weight. For most brake fluids, 5% moisture would put the boiling point below an acceptable temperature. Other properties include chemical makeup, viscosity, compressibility, and additives.

DOT standards indicate combinations of these properties. Current standards are DOT 3, 4, 5, and 5.1. The chemical makeup of DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are compatible. DOT 5 is silicon-based and is NOT compatible with the others. DOT 4 has a vicostiiy than DOT 3 and higher boiling points. This is what MBZ uses. However, the standard boiling points for DOT 4 are 205°C (dry) and 140°C (wet). MBZ specs require 260°C/180°C, thus the "plus" designation.

So, any brake fluid that is meets DOT 4 standards and has a boiling point rating of at least 260°C/180°C is good to use in your car. ATE Type 200 is DOT 4 with 280°C/190°C boiling points. It's readily available and exceeds MB specs. If you want to go overboard, there are racing fluids (usually DOT 5.1) that exceed 360°C/220°C. DOT 5.1 does have a lower viscosity, which means it should flow more easily through the system. Some people claim they can feel this difference, but the size of the hydraulic lines and expansion of the rubber hoses during braking would likely be more of a factor than that difference.