SL/R230: ROOF PROBLEM
#1
#2
MBworld Guru
You have a hydraulic leak. It's probably the Lock Cylinder, which operates the latches at the windshield. It could be a leak in the lines feeding that cylinder, but most likely, the seals in the cylinder itself are leaking.
#3
is it an expensive fix?
I think the leak caused the fabric to become looking like that all saggy.
is this something I can fix myself? clean it up and glue it back or goop it??
#4
MBworld Guru
If it is a bad cylinder (and that's the most likely problem), I'd guess you're looking at over $500 at a shop, probably over $1000 at the dealer. If you are so inclined, you can DIY. The cylinders can be repaired by replacing the seals, or you can swap for a rebuilt cylinder. The job is not terribly difficult. You do have to remove the headliner trim, which can break some of its plastic clips, but they are cheap to replace.
#5
If it is a bad cylinder (and that's the most likely problem), I'd guess you're looking at over $500 at a shop, probably over $1000 at the dealer. If you are so inclined, you can DIY. The cylinders can be repaired by replacing the seals, or you can swap for a rebuilt cylinder. The job is not terribly difficult. You do have to remove the headliner trim, which can break some of its plastic clips, but they are cheap to replace.
is there a temporary fix? it looks pretty bad
#7
Super Member
rubber seal fix
Replacement is about $500/side, and the trimming is free . I did it, and it works great, and looks good.
As Rudeney stated, you need to find and fix the leaky cylinder. Top Hydraulics does good work at a reasonable price.
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#8
If it is a bad cylinder (and that's the most likely problem), I'd guess you're looking at over $500 at a shop, probably over $1000 at the dealer. If you are so inclined, you can DIY. The cylinders can be repaired by replacing the seals, or you can swap for a rebuilt cylinder. The job is not terribly difficult. You do have to remove the headliner trim, which can break some of its plastic clips, but they are cheap to replace.
do you think it's the cylinders? parts numbers :
2308001172
2308001272
or the cylinders with the top latch assembly
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Merced...307900971.html
does the latch need to be replaced too?
another mechanic suggested replace both at the same time
is that necessary?
Last edited by goth; 07-12-2017 at 02:12 PM.
#9
You can take a sharp utility knife and trim the wavy rubber about 1-1.5" from the seal from the inside edge. It is not noticeable once cut, and does not affect the seal function.
Replacement is about $500/side, and the trimming is free . I did it, and it works great, and looks good.
Replacement is about $500/side, and the trimming is free . I did it, and it works great, and looks good.
what do you mean reasonable price?
#10
Super Member
My opinion...Why buy cylinders that will fail again in a few years? The old ones did - right?
Get the front latch (normally first to go) on exchange from TopHydraulics, and the other cylinders your mechanic said you may need.
These are better than new, and cheaper too. Then have your indy install them.
Last - send the old cylinders back for core exchange.
Done - hopefully for life.
https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/21-r230-sl
Get the front latch (normally first to go) on exchange from TopHydraulics, and the other cylinders your mechanic said you may need.
These are better than new, and cheaper too. Then have your indy install them.
Last - send the old cylinders back for core exchange.
Done - hopefully for life.
https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/21-r230-sl
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goth (08-01-2017)
#11
My opinion...Why buy cylinders that will fail again in a few years? The old ones did - right?
Get the front latch (normally first to go) on exchange from TopHydraulics, and the other cylinders your mechanic said you may need.
These are better than new, and cheaper too. Then have your indy install them.
Last - send the old cylinders back for core exchange.
Done - hopefully for life.
https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/21-r230-sl
Get the front latch (normally first to go) on exchange from TopHydraulics, and the other cylinders your mechanic said you may need.
These are better than new, and cheaper too. Then have your indy install them.
Last - send the old cylinders back for core exchange.
Done - hopefully for life.
https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/21-r230-sl
Last edited by goth; 07-12-2017 at 03:20 PM.
#12
MBworld Guru
so I had a guy look at it
do you think it's the cylinders? parts numbers :
2308001172
2308001272
or the cylinders with the top latch assembly
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Merced...307900971.html
does the latch need to be replaced too?
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-23080.../dp/B006XH4UNM
another mechanic suggested replace both at the same time
is that necessary?
do you think it's the cylinders? parts numbers :
2308001172
2308001272
or the cylinders with the top latch assembly
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Merced...307900971.html
does the latch need to be replaced too?
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-23080.../dp/B006XH4UNM
another mechanic suggested replace both at the same time
is that necessary?
The following users liked this post:
goth (08-01-2017)
#13
My opinion...Why buy cylinders that will fail again in a few years? The old ones did - right?
Get the front latch (normally first to go) on exchange from TopHydraulics, and the other cylinders your mechanic said you may need.
These are better than new, and cheaper too. Then have your indy install them.
Last - send the old cylinders back for core exchange.
Done - hopefully for life.
https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/21-r230-sl
Get the front latch (normally first to go) on exchange from TopHydraulics, and the other cylinders your mechanic said you may need.
These are better than new, and cheaper too. Then have your indy install them.
Last - send the old cylinders back for core exchange.
Done - hopefully for life.
https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/21-r230-sl
I don't know what I would do without you
Last edited by goth; 08-07-2017 at 01:16 AM.
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Heatwave (08-02-2017)
#14
Senior Member
Please tell us more ...
about your hydraulic fixes. What did you replace, what did you repair, what Comments for the Good of the Corps might you have? We go to school on each other. It might be my turn in the barrel next.
#15
Another thing to keep in mind: on our SL's the OEM lock cylinders and lines are all one unit. So if you went OEM and you had to eventually replace them again in the future, you would need to remove everything all over again. Top Hydraulic cylinders allow you to remove the hydraulic line should you ever get to that point.
#16
If it is a bad cylinder (and that's the most likely problem), I'd guess you're looking at over $500 at a shop, probably over $1000 at the dealer. If you are so inclined, you can DIY. The cylinders can be repaired by replacing the seals, or you can swap for a rebuilt cylinder. The job is not terribly difficult. You do have to remove the headliner trim, which can break some of its plastic clips, but they are cheap to replace.
I need 4 more. I took this to the MB dealer in town, they had no idea how to get them other than ordering a new headliner.
#17
MBworld Guru
That is the slot that the clip slides into. It is (supposed to be) permanently attached to the roof panel, so it's not an individual part. If it's not broken, just detached, I'd use some epoxy to glue it back in place. If it is broken so that it won't hold the clip, then you would need a new roof trim panel.
#18
hi
yeah so it was the FRONT LOCK CYLINDER 2308000872
apparently there are 9 cylinders in this car
not sure when the others will die or start leaking but the front was the one to replace and it cost me $300 for labor and $200 USD for the part from TOP hydraulics they only refunded me $20 because they claimed the wires were cut off so they can't refund the $120 they promised so
something to keep in mind to tell your mechanic to be easy on the cylinder, or top-hydraulics was lying who knows
whatever lol
#19
I own a 2004 SL 500 and four of the five roof panel clips are no longer attached. I think I would need to remove the roof panel to glue/epoxy the clips back onto the other half of the clip that is still secured to the roof panel. My question is, how do you keep the roof in an extended position, not open or closed, so you can work on it? Also, assuming I get this far, how do you remove the roof panel? I see there are 4-6 screws on the forward edge, are there any other retaining clips, etc? Thanks.
#20
MBworld Guru
Here's the WIS for removal:
http://benzbits.com/r230/RemoveRoofPaneling.pdf
To keep the roof in a working position, you can stop it during the open/close cycle and use something to prop it open. I use a piece of PVC pipe with notches cut in the end so it sits firmly against the windshield header and the leading edge of the roof panel.
http://benzbits.com/r230/RemoveRoofPaneling.pdf
To keep the roof in a working position, you can stop it during the open/close cycle and use something to prop it open. I use a piece of PVC pipe with notches cut in the end so it sits firmly against the windshield header and the leading edge of the roof panel.
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ReheiserJ (10-04-2017)