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Rattle or tick-tick-tick?
Do you have stock wheels or spacers on the rear?
My bet is your lug bolts are a little too long and hitting the parking brakes springs. If so, fix it before it causes more damage.
Rattle or tick-tick-tick?
Do you have stock wheels or spacers on the rear?
My bet is your lug bolts are a little too long and hitting the parking brakes springs. If so, fix it before it causes more damage.
They are stock wheels I believe. Not had vehicle but a few weeks. Looks like new brakes too!. How could I tell if it needs spacers and where would they go? Thanks for the response.
They are stock wheels I believe. Not had vehicle but a few weeks. Looks like new brakes too!. How could I tell if it needs spacers and where would they go? Thanks for the response.
If they are the stock wheels, then there should be no spacers, nor need for any. Spacers are generally used for aftermarket wheels when the wheel offset is beyond the factory spec. They are used to move the wheel farther away from the hub so that the wheel doesn't rub against the brake calipers, or sometimes for cosmetic purposes to bring the wheel out closer to the fender line. They are pressure mounted on the inside of the wheel and usually necessitate longer lug bolts to account for the increased distance. For reference, here is what hub centric spacers look like: As noted above, if the vehicle had aftermarket wheels prior, and longer lug bolts were used, then you need to go back to the shorter stock lug bolts when the stock wheels are remounted as the longer lug bolts will strike against the parking brake springs, eventually causing them to snap and incur more damage to the brakes. Often people don't retrieve the stock lug bolts when they have aftermarket wheels installed and don't desire to spend the $100 for a new set of original lugs. So when they goto sell the vehicle, most often they retain their aftermarket rims and either don't realise the difference in lug bolt lengths, or conveniently fail to mention it to the new owner.
Hey thanks. How could I determine what the size bolt should be? Also, can I just make sure my keys are away from the car and take my brakes off without shutting down the system to remove the pads and put new springs if that's the problem and change lug nut? Don't really want to disconnect the battery and reset a lot of stuff. Should I disconnect the SBC connector or not. Thanks, do not want to create more issues.
Pull a single bolt off the right rear. Measure the length from the shoulder to end (thread length) in mm or inches.
Report back what you find. We can compare with the standard bolts we mostly all have.
The treads measure about 7/8 and to the top of beveled shoulder about 1 3/16. They have Mercedes symbol on ends. The noise sounds like something rattles did tumbles. I could see side spring when I look inside. Spring looked intact. Based on measurements to the spring that distance seemed ok based on thread of bolt
If I remove rotor and not change disc pads I do not have to shut brake system down as long as door or not open .....Right?
I took off the wheel remove caliper locked at rear brakes nothing stood out. Does anybody know what bad wheel bearings sound like or a stuck caliber would sound like
Ronnie...I’ve been moving and not able to respond quickly.
Bolts sound about right, but I have not compared to mine.
When you removed the caliper, did you pull the brake disk too? The emergency brake is inside the rear disk and is a drum type brake.
Could be something inside the drum making the noise. Look inside the drum.
Kbob999...thanks for hanging in there with me. Hope you have settled down. After long searching and you tubing. I saw a You Tube Video of an BMW owner who describe the same sound coming from his vehicle. Determine it was ....I believe..... the sound is coming from the CV half shaft. The clicking sound as though you had a card inside of your spoke tire on your bicycle when you was a kid. Only at speeds below 10 miles and hour after that sound goes away. Could I be on the right track. If so, how hard is this to fix, part, difficulty? Thanks for your input..
It could certainly be a bad half shaft CV joint making this sound. I have never heard of one going bad on a MB.
My C32 had a torn boot on the CV, which I was able to seal up without removing, but I have plans to replace the boot.
I would find a suitable replacement part, or even a used low mile shaft unit (if you trust the source).
You might want to pull the shaft and replace the parts. Here is a DIY for the shaft on a C32, not an R230...
Thanks ...could not make out the attach instructions maybe page nine needs to be included. Do you think the level of difficulty would be high. The boots look fine. Should be still driveable for a while. Maybe I can query and ask does anyone have a Shop Manual for the R230 for the
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