SL/R230: Lowering links / SDS lowering
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Lowering links / SDS lowering
I know.. I am starting yet another new topic on how to lower a R230.. There's already hundreds of posts about this!
But there's really not many recent ones? And as far as I could find, no true topics where people show WHERE they officially purchased their links / modules, and how to install them? And there are none that I could find with before/after pics? Don't get me wrong, I've visited the Renntech website, but where were the instructions regarding the installation?
I've also found nothing credible regarding lowering a R230 with SDS? Where/how do you do that?
Could we perhaps make a new thread (perhaps even a sticky?) and let people show/tell how they lowered their R230's, show before & after pictures, and also talk about the do's and dont's? It seems that I'm not the only one interested in this feature.
I will be receiving my 'new' 2011 SL550 in a few weeks, and I would like to find out the options for making it look more level. Thanks in advance for the support from this great forum!
But there's really not many recent ones? And as far as I could find, no true topics where people show WHERE they officially purchased their links / modules, and how to install them? And there are none that I could find with before/after pics? Don't get me wrong, I've visited the Renntech website, but where were the instructions regarding the installation?
I've also found nothing credible regarding lowering a R230 with SDS? Where/how do you do that?
Could we perhaps make a new thread (perhaps even a sticky?) and let people show/tell how they lowered their R230's, show before & after pictures, and also talk about the do's and dont's? It seems that I'm not the only one interested in this feature.
I will be receiving my 'new' 2011 SL550 in a few weeks, and I would like to find out the options for making it look more level. Thanks in advance for the support from this great forum!
#2
Super Member
Buy the lowering links on ebay, any type will do. In fact, you can even strap an ice cream stick in place of the stock links and the car will lower. You're basically just tricking the sensor by extending the front, shortening the rear and the car will sit lower. To install it, is super easy, just pop the old one out, pop the new one in.
bad vid but you get the idea, links are held in by some rubber piece, just pull them out
Links you can use this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Be...Faolgu&vxp=mtr
bad vid but you get the idea, links are held in by some rubber piece, just pull them out
Links you can use this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Be...Faolgu&vxp=mtr
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Buy the lowering links on ebay, any type will do. In fact, you can even strap an ice cream stick in place of the stock links and the car will lower. You're basically just tricking the sensor by extending the front, shortening the rear and the car will sit lower. To install it, is super easy, just pop the old one out, pop the new one in.
bad vid but you get the idea, links are held in by some rubber piece, just pull them out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1-twGE7AVk
Links you can use this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Be...Faolgu&vxp=mtr
bad vid but you get the idea, links are held in by some rubber piece, just pull them out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1-twGE7AVk
Links you can use this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Be...Faolgu&vxp=mtr
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#4
Super Member
No issues. By lowering itself at high speeds mean the car will set itself on the neutral (lowest setting) of the 3. So if you have it in high, and you go above 75, it'll go into neutral mode.
#5
Super Member
You want to be a little careful when snapping these on and off. The plastic arm to the sensor can break and mess up your day.
I had to rivet the arm back together on my C32 when I whacked it with a sway bar. Of course, you don't have a sway bar, but they are still fragile. And new ones cost bucks.
I had to rivet the arm back together on my C32 when I whacked it with a sway bar. Of course, you don't have a sway bar, but they are still fragile. And new ones cost bucks.
#6
Super Member
I have a set of adj. sensor arms I originally lowered the car with sitting in a drawer. Giant PIA. No offense meant to users. Totally unecessary. You can accomplish the same effect in way less time without removing the wheels or jacking up the car. Our cars lowered 1.7” fr; 1.9” rr. All accomplished with only a laptop and SDS
MB is Uber easy for modification if you listen, read and not follow the crowds.
FWIW Did a similar ride lowering on an w164 ML with Airmatic. Dropped it almost 3” in the rear and it still rode like a normal ride height vehicle
Good Luck Gents
Hary
MB is Uber easy for modification if you listen, read and not follow the crowds.
FWIW Did a similar ride lowering on an w164 ML with Airmatic. Dropped it almost 3” in the rear and it still rode like a normal ride height vehicle
Good Luck Gents
Hary
Last edited by Hary Gahtoe; 04-20-2018 at 08:16 PM.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
I have a set of adj. sensor arms I originally lowered the car with sitting in a drawer. Giant PIA. No offense meant to users. Totally unecessary. You can accomplish the same effect in way less time without removing the wheels or jacking up the car. Our cars lowered 1.7” fr; 1.9” rr. All accomplished with only a laptop and SDS
MB is Uber easy for modification if you listen, read and not follow the crowds.
FWIW Did a similar ride lowering on an w164 ML with Airmatic. Dropped it almost 3” in the rear and it still rode like a normal ride height vehicle
Good Luck Gents
Hary
MB is Uber easy for modification if you listen, read and not follow the crowds.
FWIW Did a similar ride lowering on an w164 ML with Airmatic. Dropped it almost 3” in the rear and it still rode like a normal ride height vehicle
Good Luck Gents
Hary
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#8
Super Member
Try this: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...l#post16791554
From the Star Diagnosis main menu choose
.
Read the instructions on the next screen and then proceed by pressing "F2". Now you use your PC function keys to raise/lower the suspension at each wheel to your liking with this constraint: the four level sensor voltages must all read 2-3 volts DC. When finished press "F2". Now you will be asked to enter control arm angles you supposedly measured with a "Romess" gauge. Here enter "-8.0" for the left and right front and "-2.0" for the left and right rear. Press "F2", then press "F3" on the confirmation screen which follows. You should be finished.
From the Star Diagnosis main menu choose
.
Control units > Chassis > ABC > Control unit adaptations > Level calibration > Raise and lower the suspension struts at low speed.
The following 3 users liked this post by kbob999:
#9
Super Member
SDS is expensive, and a visit to the dealership to have them program this can't be cheap. I paid $100 for my links, and popped them in the front in less than 5 minutes. The rear just jack up the car higher and crawl underneath and pop them out.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
I don't personally have SDS access, but I do know of a well-known local Mercedes guru who has told me that he has the same access as a regular Mercedes mechanic. But he's 70+ and I don't think he does too much tweaking like this, so hence the question about how to actually do it. Thanks to the poster above for the instructions!
The following users liked this post:
xclens (04-26-2018)
#12
Super Member
Not that expensive, unless you don't own one...
In my opinion you should not own this car, or ANY Benz, unless you own the SDS. It has saved me at least 3 times its' cost in pinpointing issues, fixing them, and keeping away from the shop. I have only gone to the shop once with my 3 MB's, and it was my stupidity, not the cars' problem that caused it.
Plus, you can sell your SDS for what you paid when you no longer own a Benz. Win-win.
#13
MBworld Guru
SDS is expensive, unless you already own one, then you save yourself $100 for lowering.
In my opinion you should not own this car, or ANY Benz, unless you own the SDS. It has saved me at least 3 times its' cost in pinpointing issues, fixing them, and keeping away from the shop. I have only gone to the shop once with my 3 MB's, and it was my stupidity, not the cars' problem that caused it.
Plus, you can sell your SDS for what you paid when you no longer own a Benz. Win-win.
In my opinion you should not own this car, or ANY Benz, unless you own the SDS. It has saved me at least 3 times its' cost in pinpointing issues, fixing them, and keeping away from the shop. I have only gone to the shop once with my 3 MB's, and it was my stupidity, not the cars' problem that caused it.
Plus, you can sell your SDS for what you paid when you no longer own a Benz. Win-win.
+1, no really, +1,000!!! With other MBZs like the W203, W209, W164, you can get by with YouTube videos and a $120 iCarsoft scanner, but with the R230, or any MBZ with ABC and SBC, SDS is a requirement. It's really not that expensive if you are computer savvy. You can buy the Chinese cloned multiplexer for around $250, and assuming you already have a laptop that can run it, you can actually find the software for free. If you'd rather have someone else do all the configuration \work for you, then spend about $700 and you'll get a complete turnkey system with the laptop (usually a refurb Dell D630).
#14
Member
Thread Starter
+1, no really, +1,000!!! With other MBZs like the W203, W209, W164, you can get by with YouTube videos and a $120 iCarsoft scanner, but with the R230, or any MBZ with ABC and SBC, SDS is a requirement. It's really not that expensive if you are computer savvy. You can buy the Chinese cloned multiplexer for around $250, and assuming you already have a laptop that can run it, you can actually find the software for free. If you'd rather have someone else do all the configuration \work for you, then spend about $700 and you'll get a complete turnkey system with the laptop (usually a refurb Dell D630).
The only problem is that I'd be afraid of pressing the wrong button, something that can't be undone, and totally ruining something in the car?
Edit: Plus, even though I've been running Mac OSX for the past few years, the 10-15 years before that I spent with Windows XP, so I know it well.
Last edited by xclens; 04-26-2018 at 12:30 AM. Reason: Added a line.
#17
Member
Thread Starter
#18
Member
Thread Starter
What about C5, wouldn't that be even better, or?
I found this on AliExpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2018...850043188.html
Do you think that would be a good buy?
#19
Banned
In my opinion that kit is grossly overpriced. Moreover, according to recent discussions on *******.com the quality of the multiplexers coming from China is greatly diminished compared to a few years ago. I wouldn't avoid Chinese gear, but unless I were confident of the quality I would purchase cheap with the expectation of possibly having to order a replacement in short time.
#20
MBworld Guru
We had this discussion once before. I don't have any hard facts or personal experience, but my educated guess is that if you want a non-Chinese built multiplexer, then go spent $20K and buy a genuine, licensed SDS setup from BZ. Otherwise, the consumer-grade "clones" out there are all coming from China. I know there was a guy who once claimed his were not made in China, but I suspect what he was doing was buying from the "better" Chinese suppliers and thoroughly testing the units.
The first multiplexer I had was the smaller unit. It was delivered with a loose screw flopping aroudn inside. I removed i, and the unit worked for several years until the "backside" circuit failed, so it would not work with pre-MY2005 facelift cars. I replaced it with one of the "better" units with the "red" capacitors. It has worked quite well ever since. But now, as i understand it, the crappy Chinese suppliers have started using the red capacitors so that is not longer a sign of a better quality. I think it's just hit or miss.
The first multiplexer I had was the smaller unit. It was delivered with a loose screw flopping aroudn inside. I removed i, and the unit worked for several years until the "backside" circuit failed, so it would not work with pre-MY2005 facelift cars. I replaced it with one of the "better" units with the "red" capacitors. It has worked quite well ever since. But now, as i understand it, the crappy Chinese suppliers have started using the red capacitors so that is not longer a sign of a better quality. I think it's just hit or miss.
#21
Member
The links I purchased have a one way thread both ends and there is not the required fine tuning you would get from a rod with reverse thread either end.
I have 10- 15mm differences as I cannot fine tune. With a one way thread its a full turn or nothing.
The rest is easy.
peter
PS
makes a big difference to the look of the car ...just that one inch ..or 1 1/4
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Its really a no brainer but I would say DO NOT BUY links that are not the type with the reverse thread on one end so you can have the luxury of adjusting once the links are in place.
The links I purchased have a one way thread both ends and there is not the required fine tuning you would get from a rod with reverse thread either end.
I have 10- 15mm differences as I cannot fine tune. With a one way thread its a full turn or nothing.
The rest is easy.
peter
PS
makes a big difference to the look of the car ...just that one inch ..or 1 1/4
The links I purchased have a one way thread both ends and there is not the required fine tuning you would get from a rod with reverse thread either end.
I have 10- 15mm differences as I cannot fine tune. With a one way thread its a full turn or nothing.
The rest is easy.
peter
PS
makes a big difference to the look of the car ...just that one inch ..or 1 1/4
#23
Member
Only need to pop one head off each if the fronts the rears are both ball with the thread
a full turn is to much ...if they are not L&R thread either end don't buy them as you cannot adjust
I have bought another set with L and R thread and will go in again once back from a 2 week holiday
a full turn is to much ...if they are not L&R thread either end don't buy them as you cannot adjust
I have bought another set with L and R thread and will go in again once back from a 2 week holiday
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
Try this: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...l#post16791554
From the Star Diagnosis main menu choose
.
Read the instructions on the next screen and then proceed by pressing "F2". Now you use your PC function keys to raise/lower the suspension at each wheel to your liking with this constraint: the four level sensor voltages must all read 2-3 volts DC. When finished press "F2". Now you will be asked to enter control arm angles you supposedly measured with a "Romess" gauge. Here enter "-8.0" for the left and right front and "-2.0" for the left and right rear. Press "F2", then press "F3" on the confirmation screen which follows. You should be finished.
From the Star Diagnosis main menu choose
.
Read the instructions on the next screen and then proceed by pressing "F2". Now you use your PC function keys to raise/lower the suspension at each wheel to your liking with this constraint: the four level sensor voltages must all read 2-3 volts DC. When finished press "F2". Now you will be asked to enter control arm angles you supposedly measured with a "Romess" gauge. Here enter "-8.0" for the left and right front and "-2.0" for the left and right rear. Press "F2", then press "F3" on the confirmation screen which follows. You should be finished.