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Finally had some good weather yesterday and took the car out for its first run of more than a few miles since the SBC repair. Noticed a lot of wind noise coming from right at my left ear. Thought that I had not closed the door all the way. Pulled over and opened it and closed it more firmly. Still had the noise Rolled the window down then up and it was gone. What I have discovered is that the driver window is only dropping about 1/16 an inch when opened. When closed I get what is in the photo below. Is there a way to re-set this so it shuts right?
You could try disconnecting reconnecting the battery and doing the window resync thing.
From the manual.
-Switch on ignition
-Pull the power window switches until the side windows are closed.
-Hold the switches for approximately one second
-The power windows are synchronized.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Hmm I don’t think the reactions pertain to Spyders problem. As we know the window is self adjusting when it hits the seal and we hold the switch. Assuming it hits the seal in correct manner, the problem is that the window doesn’t sag enough when the door is opened and that it hits the seal sideways afterwards.
Sounds like an electronic problem to me. Is there a timer that provides a short electric impulse (window down) when you open the door?
Is there a timer that provides a short electric impulse (window down) when you open the door?
No, the door control module essentially counts the revolutions of the motor, and this provides an accurate determination of the window position. Star Diagnosis and possibly the iCarsoft products can show the count and tell the tale of what is happening with the O.P.'s window.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
How’s your window doing?
Seeing no further remedies coming your way, I’d suggest to pull fuse 09 in the driver side box under the bonnet. Perhaps that resets the relevant control unit.
Last edited by Frederick NL; 03-21-2019 at 04:07 PM.
Been on the road for work and have not had a chance to work on the car. Thanks to all who have responded. When I return I'll try the fuse first and see what happens.
After you pull the fuse, you need to do a window reset anyway.
you actually 1st is roll all the windows DOWN, hold the switch down for three seconds, then roll the windows UP, and then hold the switch up for three second
Last poster is right for resetting the motors. When pulling the door handle the window should drop about 1/4 inch and then when door is closed it should run up till tight. So when doing the up/closed reset it needs to be up against the rubber seal. If this is not happening maybe the switch in the door handle mechbis bad. Last thing is could the window channel be mis-adjusted so that the glass is not properly raising properly. If so you need to adjust it and then resync the motors.
The point I was trying to make is that from the picture it looked like the window is out of it's track or mis-aligned and that needs to be fixed prior to any attempt to sync the window motor operations.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Guys, as OP explained that window is squeezed against the seal after closing the door, because it doesn’t travel down far enough when the door is opened.
You're correct, and there's a reason for that, either it's mechanical and it's out of the track or has gotten mis-aligned somehow or it's electrical and the door handle switch is not signaling the motor to drop the window slightly or the motor is bad or something. Once that is fixed do the sync.
You're correct, and there's a reason for that, either it's mechanical and it's out of the track or has gotten mis-aligned somehow or it's electrical and the door handle switch is not signaling the motor to drop the window slightly or the motor is bad or something. Once that is fixed do the sync.
I will have to check the track. It does not seem to be out of adjustment as the Windows express up and down correctly when the door is closed. Just to clarify; when the door is opened, the window does drop but is seems to be less than it should. When you close the door the window appears to contact the seal in the front and then goes up and looks like he photo from the first post.
Something is causing the window glass to end up in front of the top rubber seal, you first need to figure that out. It might have something to do with the window glass not dropping down enough if it's mechanical. If you can get the glass in the correct position with the door closed then try the sync and see if that fixes it. If when you operate the window after this it still ends up as per the picture there's something mechanical and you need to take off the door panel and watch it operate. It's a process of elimination. Or take it to the dealer or an auto glass shop.
Rainy day yesterday and I was able to do some more investigation of the issue. Upon opening the door the window does not drop very much at all. However, I can lightly push it down to where it should drop. When the door is closed it rises correctly. I then connected my iCarsoft unit and paged to the left hand door page, then stream data. When the door is opened it shows activation with no DTC.
Before i open un the panel, I wanted to get suggestions on what to look for. Earlier it was suggested to look a the track alignment (I will) but with the window operations, other than with door opening, all working correctly; what else should I look for or test?
I had the car out today to run a few errands. Several times when opening the door all worked as it should. More often than not when I opened the door from the inside However, a couple of times opening the door from the outside it worked like it should. I am really puzzled by what is going on. Any direction would be appreciated. I know I need to look at the track but what should I be looking for?
Upon opening the door the window does not drop very much at all. However, I can lightly push it down to where it should drop. When the door is closed it rises correctly.
Did you get this resolved? Mine started doing this after I replaced the regulator pieces with a repair kit. When I open the door I can hear the regulator operating for a second, but the window doesn't go down. After that, I can push the window down about an inch and also pullI it up about an inch. I'm guessing that the cables on the regulator are not tight enough allowing me to push and pull the window. The passenger side is solid and I can't physically move it. The repair kit cables may possibly be a little to long or the spring loaded cable tension mechanism may not be seated correctly or possibly broken, is my guess.
I have not been able to fix the issue. Can't determine what the reason for it is. With mine the window will not go down on opening but when pushed down the 1/2 inch needed it will rise correctly when the door is shut. All other operations of the window are correct. I get no faults when connected to my MB I II.
Yes, we have the same problem. You should not be able to push the window down by hand. When you open the door, the window motor operates for a 1/2 second but the window doesn't come down because there is too much slack in the regulator cables. There is a spring loaded mechanism near the motor that should take up the slack. When I replaced the regulator parts a couple of months ago, I don't remember if there was an adjustment on that mechanism or not. I have a feeling there is and I needed to use it to tighten the cables. Either that or it may not be seated correctly.
03-18-2019, 06:34 PM
